Conwy > Penmaen Head >
 
Sir Crimpalot 7a+

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12m. No description has been contributed for this climb.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 29 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Ed F - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/14 with Si

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Aug/14

I found a very powerful sequence avoiding the really thin holds but staying in line with the route. Right hand in undercut on the big block after first bolt. Right heel below it, high left foot on block. Left hand on good crimp far out left then a powerful crank over the heel to gain the sloping crimps at the top with right hand (lots of core tension required!). Not sure if this is too off route but it felt harder than any other 7a+ or the 7b I've done so far.
DeaNomNom - Lead RP - 08/Aug/14

Dan77 - TR - 29/Jul/14 with Alex

akhughes - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

FreddieSmith - Lead dog - 2014

Finally got it! Very hard crux sequence. It is not eliminate at all, the line is very obvious and the moves are enjoyable.
Dan724 - Lead RP - 17/Dec/13 with Jeannie, Ben Ryle

Crimpy!
SMc - Lead RP - 05/Oct/13 with Anne

Hidden - Lead RP - 31/Aug/13

Felt nails
doylo - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13

Gus - Lead rpt - 18/Aug/12

Adam Booth - Lead dog - 18/Aug/12 with Ellen Cobby

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Jul/12

maybe_si - Lead RP - 23/Sep/11

sian88 - TR dnf - 15/Sep/11

One v hard move
Chubbard - Lead dog - 24/Apr/11 with C Godfrey

Shaved Atom - Lead RP - 10/Apr/11

Crimpy crux, only 1 go at it.
Kevster - Lead dog - 20/Mar/11

Just 1 hard section, rest is easy.
Bennykr - Lead RP - 04/Feb/11 with caradog chapman

mwatson - 2011

What a dirty eliminate pile of bollocks. It all seems to be about 2 hard pulls on crimps and thats it??
smallerrich - Lead dog - 12/Sep/10

willworkforfoodjnr - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/10

vix - TR dnf - 10/Jul/10 with chris

1st RP
Stig - Lead RP - 06/Mar/10 with Goi

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 06/Mar/10 with James Rees

so eliminate! decent climbing but sense that youre off route is unavoidable unless you go strictly direct which is v artificial. 6c+ / 7a if you go left at crux?
ksjs - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with mux

dog felt i was too far left to be on route so moved right. who knows?
mux - Lead dog - 09/Aug/09 with ksjs

2nd RP, Inspiring Names at this crag!
Ian Broome - Lead - 14/Jun/09 with Al

Hidden - TR dog - 08/Apr/09

Voting
Total votes cast 21
hard 7b0 of 11
7b0 of 11
easy 7b6 of 11
hard 7a+2 of 11
7a+1 of 11
easy 7a+1 of 11
hard 7a1 of 11
7a0 of 11
easy 7a0 of 11
3 Stars1 of 10
2 Stars1 of 10
1 Star2 of 10
0 Stars5 of 10
Bag of .....1 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead24 of 29 (82.8%)
Toproped4 of 29 (13.8%)
Unknown1 of 29 (3.4%)

'Climbed'3 of 29 (10.3%)
clean O/S3 of 29 (10.3%)
clean rpt1 of 29 (3.4%)
clean RP11 of 29 (37.9%)
dogged7 of 29 (24.1%)
dnf4 of 29 (13.8%)