Superb and varied climbing. Set off up the right side of the smooth central slab, just left of the vegetated groove.
1) 6c. A challenging pitch of thin slab climbing. Stay left of the grey drainage streak.
2) 6c. Steep wall climbing, broken by a powerful roof. Can be aided with a sling in the roof for a foothold.
3) 5+. A welcome easier pitch.
4) 6b+. A fine varied pitch featuring some bouldery moves. Walk 30m slightly rightwards to find the start of the final pitch.
5) 6c. The sting in the tail, don't blow it here! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
6c, 6c, 5c+, 6b+, 6c. one of the hardest and best multi-pitch routes on the mountain, taking in some superb rock.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
led the other pitches this time, fell off on P4 again!!, the crack at the top this time.....
|ian storey||04/May/13||AltLd RP||
Superb route, very varied from thin, technical slabs, to bouldery roof problems. Bart had the tough draw doing the "warm up" 6c slab pitch, leaving me to love pitch 2 which is *** on it's own. Rest of route doesn't disappoint either and the last two pitches feature magical technical climbing. Lots of whoops of delight all the way up! Fun ridge to finish to the castle....
lead pitches 2 (clean) & 4 (1 fall) seconded 1,3,5 clean