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|Cornwall > Porth Loe Buttress >|
|Eileen|| S 4a|
|45m, 4 pitches. Start: Walk left (facing in) from the bottom of the South Gully descent and descend a sloping ledge to its end. An awkward step down onto a sloping ledge leads to the start on the next ledge to the left, above a small zawn.
Pitch 1: Easily up via a ledge and a crack on the left to the 'scoped' ledge by a corner and below the black streaked wall. (9m)
Pitch 2: 4a. Up the corner until possible to step right onto a ledge on the black-streaked wall. Move up by a small crack (surprising) onto the slab. Pleasantly, up the slab following a crack. Belay at the base of a wall below an interesting looking chimney/groove. (18m)
Pitch 3: 4b. Climb the chimney/groove using foot and gand jams on the left. Hard for the grade but excellent protection. Belay on the ledge above the chimney. (9m)
Either scramble off here or add a further pitch:
Pitch 4: 4a. Climb the large block behind the belay by its left-hand edge on positive little flake holds. (9m)
This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.
Led pitch 3, great route, sandbag.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/11 with Chester
crobinson - AltLd - 09/Oct/11 with Southern Man
jmr - AltLd - 17/Apr/11 with Paul Greenhow
Hidden - AltLd - 15/Mar/09
paulh1967 - 2009
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Mar/08
Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/03
Raggar - Lead - 15/May/96 with Andy J
Iain Thow - Solo - 11/May/96
Users with this climb on their wishlist are: