40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic expedition up the seaward side of the large tooth-topped pinnacle, the summit of which can be seen in the lower reaches of Pinnacle Gully. Start at the base of The Pinnacle, at a vague ramp in newly-exposed rock, which leads right to a prominent left-facing corner.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the ramp and corner to ledges on the right, pinnacle belay up left.
2) 10m. Take the steep crack above the ledge on good holds to another ledge and belay.
3) 12m. Climb up the corner behind the stance and move right onto the front of the pinnacle, beneath a wide crack in the summit block. Move up into the crack and climb to the summit.
Descent - Either stay roped-up and downclimb the steep wall to the left (looking up the gully) at Diff standard, or abseil from a prominent spike on the landward side of the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The original first pitches were destroyed by rockfall in the winter of 2013/4.
The new starts take fairly logical lines to regain the original route. The cliff as a whole seems to be now stable (?) but there are still many holds that remain fractured and are therefore dubious. The standard for these lines seems to be approximately VS/HVS but this was difficult to judge as the rock was very wet. The climbing now has a 'quarried' feel to it and the rock is very compact with very few reliable gear placements.

FA. J.Mallory, M.Roster 24.3.1940 FA. J.Barford, F.Feilden 25.8.1940 (Variation first pitch) 24/Mar/1940

Ticklists: Classic Rock, Kernow, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, South West VDiff-HVS.

Hidden 17/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
davebrox ??/2016 -
bullwinkle ??/2016 -
Dave Mason ??/2016 AltLd O/S
with Trev Tatler
Gympaul 30/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Last climb of the year in a force 9 gale. Got soaked on the belay for Pitch 3!

with Clive
Skinnybloke 03/Oct/15 AltLd

Started right treversed left over the face, crumbly under foot. From belay went left instead, intresting.

clubmanpete 03/Oct/15 AltLd

well we kinda did it.... took the hardest route we could find up this one to jazz it up a little. didn't do it before the rock fall so cant compare it... but I found it bloody good fun and well worth a bash if your down there!

Hidden 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
andrewmcleod 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Climbed (new) pitch 1, Zack climbed pitches 2&3. Abseiled off spike.

Hidden 11/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Steveb27 31/Aug/15 AltLd

Pt 2 & 3 only

Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd
Dazluke2000 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
cornishbekx 28/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with John
John MacQuarrie 28/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Sarah Roscoe 08/Aug/15 2nd dnf

just p1, wasnt aware of rock fall so was confused by route

Matt Harmon 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

sort of did it- wasn't aware of the rockfall so just climbed a line that felt HSish on P1, turned out to be the new route. sarah didn't want to lead the top as didn't trust the guidebook anymore so we finished after P1.

tom s g 25/Jul/15 Solo O/S
powelli 23/Jul/15 AltLd rpt

Lead the first 2 pitches in one, with some security provided by a long runner part way up P1 left in by Matt leading beforehand. Abby lead P3 with a top rope from Matt on the upper part. Abseiled off the back of the pinnacle with rope round the large boulder. Earned our pasties.

with Abby G
Hidden 20/Jun/15 2nd O/S
mark4344 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

First pitch,good sharp holds,but bold at top. No gear in top of first pitch( may have used micro- cams if I had some). Pitches 2/3 fantastic and straight forward. Did in 1 long pitch. New gradeVS 4b?

with Andreas/Felix
Samuel Wainwright 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Followed the original line then up the chimney to a spike belay, traversed and climbed up to 2nd belay from there. First Pitch is maybe now Severe/HS? Some guys before us traversed below the chimney on the broken rock to the base of the 2nd pitch - they said it was a bit friable with a few loose bits but mostly stable however there is no gear from the chimney to the base of the 2nd pitch crack.

Alex Hallam 26/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Ran the first two pitches together as it seemed most sensible at the time. Traced the line across the face that seemed most inkeeping with the original line in the guidebook. Pretty run out for a VDiff which is what I thought at the time.

with Pete Mack
Hidden 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S
pete_mack 25/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Alex
katherinesydney 05/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with neil morbey
Conor1 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Didn't know about the rockfall but used the same line as now described. A bit tricky to protect, but straightforward climbing. Second pitch very short and easy, great third pitch. Abseiled off the spike.

clams ?/Apr/15 Lead

In one long pitch. On P1 (as described in SW Climbs Vol 2), wished I'd traversed L to crack rather than finishing up corner - looked a far better line

CatMc ?/Apr/15 2nd
with clams
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
lithos ??/2015 -

added to compelte ticklist ! see pre 20§4 description

Antoine1 ??/2015 -
hornbywill ??/2015 Lead O/S
neilstubbs 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

I led p1, stef p2. Took a line towards the right side of the rockfall high into the corner, then made a slightly bold traverse left to foothold on the newly formed aręte, then up to join the original route at the steep crack and gear! stitched up the first section before the traverse as kept thinking there would be no more gear but there was loads and most of it pretty good! High runner on wall right of corner helps make the traverse feel a bit better! Great route. I reckon HS/VS 4b and still 3 stars!

with Stefan Parkin
tobydunford 28/Sep/14 Solo O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
beds74 21/Sep/14 AltLd

What's this about hard to protect....tons of gear if you go in on the original right start line, only runs out for a couple of moves across the slab going left, just look for it! I did first pitch Dave second. Fun route, deserves a Classic tick. Would have liked to have done the original pitch one, but nature will be nature.

with Dave Fisher
jhb0510 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Thought the gear and the holds on the new rock looked pretty dodgy!

with Paul Hooper
jonnysims 02/Sep/14 AltLd

Brian Attempted an alternative start before retreating - ended up traversing in from the belay point and doing the top pitch

Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
seanprendiville 19/Aug/14 AltLd

P2 & P3

with Tessa
Oli.Jeffs 11/Aug/14 2nd
with Mark Duggan
Oli.Jeffs 11/Aug/14 -
Hidden 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Guy Lowndes 03/Aug/14 AltLd
with Mark Deketelare, davej17
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 13/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jul/14 AltLd
csd23 ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Richard Dodds
klipkabouter 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Alan Huburd
bridget143 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Took the easiest line available on P1 but found it a bit thin. Nice climbing on P2

with Simen
MaccMark 19/Jun/14 Lead

Started up small flakes between old & new rock on the left, then stepped left on thin holds across the face. Belayed at big spike on right. Climbed as 2 pitches. V nice route!

with Dave Wylie
Sean Kelly 19/Jun/14 2nd

Reclimbed the route now that it has been remodelled by the winer storms. Lovely afternoon. Hard Severe is about the right grade, but gear is 'iffy' on the first pitch.

with MaccMark, Dave Wylie
TomGB 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

easier variation over to the right. I led the plum second pitch

with Stewart Moody
Cherish 10/May/14 2nd O/S

Now this is a whole new climb. We roughly followed the line for the original Vdiff route, except there is now no crack to climb and less pro, so it must be S grade now. Instead of traversing the new featureless slab, we finished the first pitch in the gully where people normally ab down and climbed a second pitch up the right hand side of the normal route, but ending up on the same ledge that starts the last pitch. I never did the original Terrier's Tooth climb, but I still thought this was a nice climb. We noticed there was probably other ways of doing it too. We probably took the easiest line.

with Tom Matson, Chris Hammick
Theeni 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jo
Mayo 19/Apr/14 Lead

Top two pitches. Sunset climbing

Siobhan McGowan 19/Apr/14 2nd dnf

Did first pitch, then went off-route and wasn't completed.

with Will Grayson
Jules Lane 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Following the major collapse Dan followed the shallow right trending groove from roughly the middle of the front of the buttress, enticed by the small flakes mid way up, then up the corner and a traverse right across the unprotected slab to a sharp new aręte and better holds and up from there to a belay ledge on original rock but higher than the original first belay ledge, which is no more. I led P2 which is the old P3 ! We felt this version is around VS 4b and from what I am told, not as good as it was before it fell down.

with Dan
Dan Lane 17/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

P1+2. At about VS through the rockfall area.

with Dad
matt.woodfield 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with andrew marshall
ParkFace 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Ben Mayo
Andy2 05/Mar/14 Solo

After the rockfall. Following the line of pitch 1a (CC guide). Seemed reasonably clean and solid, but with spaced protection. Here's a description: Severe 4a 2* Start at the base of The Pinnacle, at a vague ramp in newly-exposed rock, which leads right to a prominent left-facing corner. 1 20m 4a Climb the ramp and corner to ledges on the right, pinnacle belay up left. 2 19m Climb a corner crack on the left to ledges. Go up over blocks then right to a narrow ledge beneath the slab. Pull onto the slab and climb it to the top.

Samuel Wainwright ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with wainers
Martin Bennett 07/Jun/13 -
with SF
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
AMJ098 ??/2013 Lead O/S
j.buckley87 04/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Bob Peters ??/2012 -

Before the start fell down

Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
chris ginge ?/Jul/11 -
Egons Issy 23/Apr/11 AltLd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
David_Gledson 08/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led 1(original direct start HS) and 3. Amazing

timmsy 08/Mar/11 AltLd
andrea83 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches

with Hamish
Hidden 04/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
jimorothy 23/Jul/09 AltLd

Led HS start still covered in sea rime and very scary even with that 'bomber' lasooed sling round the nobble. Rach led pitches 2/3 which are the cream of the climb.Belter of a route.

with Rachel Crolla
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
runestone 05/May/07 -

Direct - original start

AngelaC ??/2007 AltLd
Nobster ?/May/06 Lead G/U
with Glen Bloomer
duncana 21/Jun/03 2nd

Tricky start for a VD!

with Pippa Archer
Ian JL ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Henderson
DubyaJamesDubya 22/Apr/00 -

Bottom ledge wave splashed.

with Caroline..., Naomi Walker
Raggar ??/2000 -
Yourlead ?/Aug/96 Lead
with Ric Gregory
Rich ??/1995 -
alan moore ??/1990 -
Hidden ?/Jul/83 Lead
Babika 10/Aug/82 Lead O/S
with Fran Jackson
Robmwatt ??/1982 Solo
Hidden ??/1980 -
rogerskews ??/1980 -
with Keith Jenkins
carl_123 01/Jan/50 -
carl_123 01/Jan/50 -
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 98
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 101
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
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