Terrier's Tooth*** HS 4b
[Terrier's tooth (Chair Ladder) - the start, 3 kb]40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic expedition up the seaward side of the large tooth-topped pinnacle, the summit of which can be seen in the lower reaches of Pinnacle Gully. A rock fall has destroyed the original first pitch and the route is now significantly harder. Start at the base of The Pinnacle, at a vague ramp in newly-exposed rock, which leads right to a prominent left-facing corner.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the ramp and corner to ledges on the right, pinnacle belay up left.
2) 10m. Take the steep crack above the ledge on good holds to another ledge and belay.
3) 12m. Climb up the corner behind the stance and move right onto the front of the pinnacle, beneath a wide crack in the summit block. Move up into the crack and climb to the summit.
Descent - Either stay roped-up and downclimb the steep wall to the left (looking up the gully) at Diff standard, or abseil from a prominent spike on the landward side of the summit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
The original first pitches were destroyed by rockfall in the winter of 2013/4.
The new starts take fairly logical lines to regain the original route. The cliff as a whole seems to be now stable (?) but there are still many holds that remain fractured and are therefore dubious. The standard for these lines seems to be approximately VS/HVS but this was difficult to judge as the rock was very wet. The climbing now has a 'quarried' feel to it and the rock is very compact with very few reliable gear placements.

FA. J.Mallory, M.Roster 24.3.1940 FA. J.Barford, F.Feilden 25.8.1940 (Variation first pitch) 24/Mar/1940

Ticklists: Classic Rock, Kernow, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50.

Photo: Terrier's tooth (Chair Ladder) - the start © Feeling bold
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This climb is in 44 logbooks, and on 85 wishlists.

Followed the original line then up the chimney to a spike belay, traversed and climbed up to 2nd belay from there. First Pitch is maybe now Severe/HS? Some guys before us traversed below the chimney on the broken rock to the base of the 2nd pitch - they said it was a bit friable with a few loose bits but mostly stable however there is no gear from the chimney to the base of the 2nd pitch crack.
Samuel Wainwright - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/15 with Emma Smith

Ran the first two pitches together as it seemed most sensible at the time. Traced the line across the face that seemed most inkeeping with the original line in the guidebook. Pretty run out for a VDiff which is what I thought at the time.
Alex Hallam - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/15 with Pete Mack

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/15

pete_mack - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/15 with Alex

katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/15 with neil morbey

Didn't know about the rockfall but used the same line as now described. A bit tricky to protect, but straightforward climbing. Second pitch very short and easy, great third pitch. Abseiled off the spike.
Conor1 - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/15

In one long pitch. On P1 (as described in SW Climbs Vol 2), wished I'd traversed L to crack rather than finishing up corner - looked a far better line
clams - Lead - Apr/15 with Catherine

Mike Bayley - 2015

Mike Bayley - 2015

I led p1, stef p2. Took a line towards the right side of the rockfall high into the corner, then made a slightly bold traverse left to foothold on the newly formed arÍte, then up to join the original route at the steep crack and gear! stitched up the first section before the traverse as kept thinking there would be no more gear but there was loads and most of it pretty good! High runner on wall right of corner helps make the traverse feel a bit better! Great route. I reckon HS/VS 4b and still 3 stars!
neilstubbs - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Stefan Parkin

tobydunford - Solo O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Kirsty Kerr

What's this about hard to protect....tons of gear if you go in on the original right start line, only runs out for a couple of moves across the slab going left, just look for it! I did first pitch Dave second. Fun route, deserves a Classic tick. Would have liked to have done the original pitch one, but nature will be nature.
beds74 - AltLd - 21/Sep/14 with Dave Fisher

Thought the gear and the holds on the new rock looked pretty dodgy!
jhb0510 - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Paul Hooper

Brian Attempted an alternative start before retreating - ended up traversing in from the belay point and doing the top pitch
jonnysims - AltLd - 02/Sep/14 with Brian Pasco

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/14

P2 & P3
seanprendiville - AltLd - 19/Aug/14 with Tessa

Oli.Jeffs - 2nd - 11/Aug/14 with Mark Duggan

Oli.Jeffs - 11/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/14

Guy Lowndes - AltLd - 03/Aug/14 with mark deketeleare, davej17

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/14

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 13/Jul/14 with Judith Neaves

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/14

csd23 - AltLd O/S - Jul/14 with Richard Dodds

klipkabouter - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/14 with Alan Huburd

Took the easiest line available on P1 but found it a bit thin. Nice climbing on P2
bridget143 - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14 with Simen

Started up small flakes between old & new rock on the left, then stepped left on thin holds across the face. Belayed at big spike on right. Climbed as 2 pitches. V nice route!
MaccMark - Lead - 19/Jun/14 with Dave Wylie

Reclimbed the route now that it has been remodelled by the winer storms. Lovely afternoon. Hard Severe is about the right grade, but gear is 'iffy' on the first pitch.
Sean Kelly - 2nd - 19/Jun/14 with MaccMark, Dave Wylie

easier variation over to the right. I led the plum second pitch
TomGB - AltLd O/S - 26/May/14 with Stewart Moody

Now this is a whole new climb. We roughly followed the line for the original Vdiff route, except there is now no crack to climb and less pro, so it must be S grade now. Instead of traversing the new featureless slab, we finished the first pitch in the gully where people normally ab down and climbed a second pitch up the right hand side of the normal route, but ending up on the same ledge that starts the last pitch. I never did the original Terrier's Tooth climb, but I still thought this was a nice climb. We noticed there was probably other ways of doing it too. We probably took the easiest line.
Cherish - 2nd O/S - 10/May/14 with Tom Matson, Chris Hammick

Theeni - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Jo Prichard

Top two pitches. Sunset climbing
Mayo - Lead - 19/Apr/14

Did first pitch, then went off-route and wasn't completed.
Siobhan McGowan - 2nd dnf - 19/Apr/14 with Will Grayson

Following the major collapse Dan followed the shallow right trending groove from roughly the middle of the front of the buttress, enticed by the small flakes mid way up, then up the corner and a traverse right across the unprotected slab to a sharp new arÍte and better holds and up from there to a belay ledge on original rock but higher than the original first belay ledge, which is no more. I led P2 which is the old P3 ! We felt this version is around VS 4b and from what I am told, not as good as it was before it fell down.
Jules Lane - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Dan

P1+2. At about VS through the rockfall area.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/14 with Dad

matt.woodfield - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/14

ParkFace - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/14 with Ben Mayo

After the rockfall. Following the line of pitch 1a (CC guide). Seemed reasonably clean and solid, but with spaced protection. Here's a description: Severe 4a 2* Start at the base of The Pinnacle, at a vague ramp in newly-exposed rock, which leads right to a prominent left-facing corner. 1 20m 4a Climb the ramp and corner to ledges on the right, pinnacle belay up left. 2 19m Climb a corner crack on the left to ledges. Go up over blocks then right to a narrow ledge beneath the slab. Pull onto the slab and climb it to the top.
Andy2 - Solo - 05/Mar/14

Samuel Wainwright - Lead O/S - Sep/13 with wainers

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 2008

AngelaC - AltLd - 2007 with Karen, Dieter Cole

Raggar - 2000

Babika - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/82 with Fran Jackson

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Total votes cast 273
hard VS0 of 94
VS1 of 94
easy VS20 of 94
hard HS16 of 94
HS35 of 94
easy HS7 of 94
hard S12 of 94
S1 of 94
easy S2 of 94
hard 4c1 of 82
4c0 of 82
easy 4c0 of 82
hard 4b6 of 82
4b50 of 82
easy 4b12 of 82
hard 4a12 of 82
4a1 of 82
easy 4a0 of 82
3 Stars82 of 97
2 Stars12 of 97
1 Star3 of 97
0 Stars0 of 97
Bag of .....0 of 97
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