UKC

105m, 4 pitches. The most obvious feature on the face. Starting at the right hand side and moving up the rising groove.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Scottish Classic Rock , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Glencoe , 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission , 2014 , The Baron's Bucket List , Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray , 2016 Targets , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , EUMC - Must do climbs , Mountain Rock , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , STAUMC Ticklist , Must climb at crags , Summer 2021 , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Wishlist 2021/22 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , The boys climb da rocks. , Consolidation Easy Long Routes , Lairig hitlist , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Ben's list , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , To Do , Barneys Road Trip Ticklist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , British Rock Tour April '24 , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , 2024 TODO , The Classic, Easy Scottish Mountain Routes

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User Date Notes
NullPointerEx17 8 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Tat has been removed from the block belay at the end of P2 and at the top belay after P4.
βeta?
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βeta: Tat has been removed from the block belay at the end of P2 and at the top belay after P4.
ruaridh.summers 6 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: 60m ab down to easy gully was great but scrambling down scree/back up to curved ridge is a ballache.
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βeta: 60m ab down to easy gully was great but scrambling down scree/back up to curved ridge is a ballache.
THE.WALRUS 22 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. Loads of gear, particularly mid-sized cams. Felt strenuous and exposed for the grade.
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βeta: Fantastic route. Loads of gear, particularly mid-sized cams. Felt strenuous and exposed for the grade.
Aberhangie 29 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb despite starting off 5m too far to the left and having to ab off and restart (sling free to finder!) My First multipitch climb for 30 years, a great launch back into exposed situations!
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βeta: Great climb despite starting off 5m too far to the left and having to ab off and restart (sling free to finder!) My First multipitch climb for 30 years, a great launch back into exposed situations!
ShannonSviolin 17 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Highly recommend.
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βeta: Highly recommend.
Boabigoe 15 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Well trodden classic. Started raining on the final (and hardest) pitch. Had to down climb curved ridge in the rain which felt more like gorge walking than climbing. Lost visibility just as we came off curved ridge. Spent a while walking round in circles before finding a reasonable scree slope to stumble down. Shocking day out overall, had the time of my life!
βeta?
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βeta: Well trodden classic. Started raining on the final (and hardest) pitch. Had to down climb curved ridge in the rain which felt more like gorge walking than climbing. Lost visibility just as we came off curved ridge. Spent a while walking round in circles before finding a reasonable scree slope to stumble down. Shocking day out overall, had the time of my life!
Caspar McKeever 30 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Large, loose, microwave sized block on the left at the second belay. Very loose. Didn't trundle as there were a few groups around. Take care!
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βeta: Large, loose, microwave sized block on the left at the second belay. Very loose. Didn't trundle as there were a few groups around. Take care!
arose 25 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Yep. The ravens. I've lost a fair bit of food to them over the years and even had them pick up my pack and my partners and dump them in the river when they didnt find our food.
βeta?
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βeta: Yep. The ravens. I've lost a fair bit of food to them over the years and even had them pick up my pack and my partners and dump them in the river when they didnt find our food.
Stewart Anderson 25 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Hi Neil, I’m almost certain that your rucksack was ransacked by ravens and not by other climbers! The Buachaille ravens are notorious and are capable of getting to food through almost all zips and buckles. The only reliable safeguard is to weigh your rucksack down with a fairly substantial rock. If you look through the posts for Agag’s Groove you’ll find that others have suffered too! Stewart.
βeta?
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βeta: Hi Neil, I’m almost certain that your rucksack was ransacked by ravens and not by other climbers! The Buachaille ravens are notorious and are capable of getting to food through almost all zips and buckles. The only reliable safeguard is to weigh your rucksack down with a fairly substantial rock. If you look through the posts for Agag’s Groove you’ll find that others have suffered too! Stewart.
atco 19 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: climbed this route early on the 11th June, fine climb and yes very windy especially at the top and cold. Spoilt by someone from the two following parties who stole stuff principally all my food out of my rucksack left at bottom of the route. Left the camera on top of the sack, know doubt, not good enough! So lesson learnt Neil
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: climbed this route early on the 11th June, fine climb and yes very windy especially at the top and cold. Spoilt by someone from the two following parties who stole stuff principally all my food out of my rucksack left at bottom of the route. Left the camera on top of the sack, know doubt, not good enough! So lesson learnt Neil

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Buachaille Etive Mor

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Mid VD
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High HD
Mid HD
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Votes cast 215
Votes cast 207
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cioch Nose

Grade: VD ***
(Sgurr a' Chaorachain)

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