UKC Logbook - 'Sirplum'

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Derbyshire > Chee Dale Upper >

Sirplum

E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Sloe Gin (sport)

The Plumb-line Finish >>

[Rick Graham on the spectacular finish of Sirplum, gained via the Super Indirect, 2 kb]

50m, 2 pitches. One of the great ticks in the Peak which reaches positions that other E1s don't - an amazing outing. Apart from one technical move at the start of pitch 2, it is never desperate, but it is pumpy and committing. Retreat from the nose is problematical so take your Prusiks if you are nervous. For this reason it makes it a poor route for an inexperienced second. 1) 4c, 25m. Climb up and right across the buttress to a comfortable ledge on the right of the main roofs. 2) 5b, 25m. Move left and make a powerful couple of pulls over the roof. Climb up left to a breather on a pedestal then surge up and left again on big holds, with increasingly brain-jellying exposure, to reach the very edge of the world. A hard pull gains a bridged rest (at last) in the final groove then amble up this with a grin as wide as the valley. Good gear mostly, although the effort of fixing the monster thread under the roof is probably not worth expending unless you are REALLY scared. The Plumb-line Finish, E1 5b - From the big thread, pull through the small roof above and finish direct into the jungle. A good alternative. The Defector, E2 5c - Another worthwhile variation up the crack and over the roof above the pedestal - beware of loose rock. FA. (Plumbline Finish) Al Evans, Geoff Birtles 1976 FA. (The Defector) M Warwick, D Beaver 1979 © ROCKFAX
FA. R.Dearman, R.Brown (aid) 20.12.64. FFA. Unknown 20/Dec/1964

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, The Peak: past and Present.

Photo: Rick Graham on the spectacular finish of Sirplum, gained via the Super Indirect © Neil Foster
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 207 logbooks, and on 66 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/May/13

A good climb in a butiful position, whish id dun it years ago when it wold of bean a fite
Andy Peak 1 - AltLd - 16/May/13 with Si

Martin Bennett - Apr/13

captain - 2013

One rest leading crux pitch. Damn it.
ChrisBrooke - AltLd dog - 08/Sep/12 with Duncan Bell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/12

gripped01 - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Dave Tait

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Aug/12

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12 with Ellie

Amazing route, spicy seconding. Escape/descent much less amazing, more spicy and very unpleasant due to monster nettles fuelled by a summer of rain.
elliepygall - 2nd - 25/Jul/12 with Joe

Best e1 ever!
chrism225 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Jake Young

P2, potentially my favourite E1 got a cool photo as well.
Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Chris

P1 much better than it looked, delicate and interesting climbing. P2 a bit of a rush, I wish I could have hung around a bit taking in the exposure. Horrible descent through nettles and veg.
caradoc - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12 with nick yapp

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12 with Francis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/12

Amazing route, looks so improbable for the grade but the climbing is straightforward apart from the crux pull at the start. Luke very graciously allowed my to lead the second pitch - cheers!
Joughton - Lead O/S - 19/May/12

Led 2nd pitch.. Had insulated jacket on during climb due to snow and freezing temp. Made climbing pitch 2 a very hot experience indeed..! Decent was tricky as grass was snow covered so had to abseil down slope.
Mike Hegarty - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/12 with Dave

Hidden - 2012

kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Dominic O, Jake O

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Awesome route with crazy exposure. Lead 2nd pitch.
r fizzle - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Olli Crudge

Lead first pitch. Second pitch was scary!!!!! The first off the belay move was nails then the exposure was awesome until i realised all my weight was on my arms and i was pumping out and looking at a scary swing. Was not keen for aplomb after this....good route
Olli-C - AltLd - 01/Oct/11 with Rachel Slater

Stig - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11 with Evan

Ludicrous line! Led P1 clean, ran out of steam at end of traverse of P2 and went for a bit of a space walk. Recommend trainers for descent.
barney800 - AltLd dog - 17/Sep/11 with Andrew Suttie

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/11

A bit loose on the top pitch.
Wil Treasure - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Jon L

lead pitch 1
dave_rose - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/11

Lenny - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Paul

Me P1, John P2.
Peakphil - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/11 with John Cooper

Lead P2. Lovely route with one defining hard move. The rest is gold and pretty steady.
Jonathan Hall - AltLd - 13/Aug/11 with Rob Middleton

loved it and poo'd it all the way on the 2nd pitch jugs all the way and a nice rests. just remember to chill and dont get too mental about being exposed.
jamesgodwin64 - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/11 with chris fox

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Stuart Cartwright

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/11

Mike lead p1, I lead p2. The climbing is amazing. One of the best peak limestone routes? Had a real epic getting down the natal filled gully tho. Made the afternoon unforgettable.
Chi Cheng - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Mike Borg-Costanzi

Dave Rumney - 28/May/11 with Tanya Milner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/11

lead p1 clean onsight. Fell seconding just past big thread on p2, great route.
joe_alexander - AltLd - 17/Apr/11 with Simon Kimber

Awesome!
simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Joe Alexander

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Ruth

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

JEP - 2011

Hidden - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Hidden - AltLd dog - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Led P1
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/10

bigdrew - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Mark R

Abevan - 2nd - 08/Aug/10 with james walker

absolutely amazing, each step you take makes it more and more exposed!
catblack - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Andy Barker

GF - AltLd - 25/Jul/10

Led P1.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/10 with Graeme Hammond

led 2nd pitch, massive jugs all the way, WHAT A ROUTE!!!!!!! :D
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/10 with Jim

juza - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Garry Farrar, Garry Cooper

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/10

Will P1 and I led P2. Most exposed climb in the Peak surely?! So good I need to go and do it again.
smudge - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Will Kelsall

twright180 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/10

Nick Taylor - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Ben Wills

Will led main pitch. Very steep but big holds.
davefount - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Will K

Holy Mackeral! Gratifying to hear some onlookers sounding suitably impressed! Absolutely brilliant route, terrifying and exhilarating in equal measure. Hard moves to leave the ledge, steep jug pulling after this but bloody hell what a position
Bart Shaw - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Alex

Led 2nd pitch, awesome.
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Katy Vose

Led throughout. Ultra mega stonking exposed second pitch. Not sure how anyone gets overpumped at 'the thread' though, could have paused for ever there. Most of the climbing felt steady with careful footwork, albeit a bit heavy sometimes yarding between the massive jugs!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/10

Pete Graham - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/10 with Ben Dorey

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10 with Nick Sillum

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/10

Lead 1st pitch. 2nd pitch awesome.
Chazz - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with Matt Rowat

Led first pitch. Second pitch felt quite hard for E1 - was quite stiff and cold though and got flash pumped on the start of it. Lots of loose holds.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10 with Neil Furniss

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

lead crux pitch, awesome!!
Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/09 with Nathan Sharp

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/09

simonward - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/09

I led the crux pitch, no problem with the crux but ran out of umph after the thread getting into the groove and rested at the peg, gutting only two moves from a bridging rest - I must return!
bridget143 - AltLd dog - 09/Jul/09 with Sion

pabbage - AltLd O/S - Jul/09

Brilliant despite the polish and mild looseness.
jkarran - AltLd - 28/Jun/09 with Aly

godusty - 2nd - 02/Jun/09 with GARY WINTER

Remember to take 2x 50 m ropes. dont double a single 50 m rope. The route might be 20 odd metres but the belay's way back.... all experience.
wolverine - 01/Jun/09

Lead pitch 2
madmats - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with PeakDJ

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 31/May/09

Really cool, holds on move off ledge felt snappable.
Dan 85 - AltLd O/S - 10/May/09 with John Lynch

worst descent in the Peak
david morse - AltLd O/S - 10/May/09 with baker

led the 2nd pitch..amazing- won't forget it!
john lynch - AltLd O/S - 10/May/09 with dan woolnough

tomB - AltLd - 10/May/09 with Dave Morse

Led second pitch.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Becca

Led pitch 1
BeccaSnowden - AltLd - 22/Apr/09 with Tom

John Roberts (JR) - Lead O/S - 2009

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Stu Harth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jun/08

dts - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Andy Taylor

Briliant route,hardest move is leaving ledge on P2, massive holds loads of gear.
loundsy - AltLd - 15/Jun/08 with marcus

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/May/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/08 with andrew sutton

very poor effort, got so pumped tryed 2 put the big thread on big mistake. had a couple of rests disapointed. Amazing route though gr8 exposure
Dale - Lead dog - Apr/08 with dave

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Compo - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Dan Thomas

Hidden - Lead - 12/Aug/07

rob1 - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Dave Williams

Oceanic - Aug/07

Finally got around to doing it! Gammy knee was giving me jip, i bruised my right toe having a pebble in the end of my boot, burns on my hands meant i couldnt jam it, and on approach i fell over in a patch of nettles and couldnt feel my arm. excellent route of poor quality
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/07 with mick radford

Mick r - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Cragdog al

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 28/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

took a long time. done with lloyd and nick, nick fell off..... twice. (fortunately lloyd had forsight enough to give him an ascender). long time spent feeling like a human sand bag. still fun tho.
fizzy_elephant - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/07 with Lloyd Betsworth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/07

tedj234 - AltLd O/S - Jun/07 with Nicolas Rabb

Led P2
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/07 with Tom Powell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

led first pitch.
keith leonard - AltLd - 2007

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/06 with Paul Raine

a_radiohead_fan - AltLd dog - Oct/06

spacey - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/06 with paul evans

climbed in a thunder storm, and stayed dry... the over hang is huge even our bag were dry 100ft below us
IanJackson - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/06 with Luke Hunt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/06

lukehunt - Lead O/S - Jul/06 with Ian Jackson

Andy lead hard pitch. Caught in thunderstorm at top making decent a nightmare.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Andy

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/05

Hidden - Solo - 16/Jul/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/05

tossed a coin for the 'big pitch'. Tony called it! good stuff
Belier - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Tony Holdsworth

maffujones - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/04 with Stuat Knott

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/04 with Chris Bigger

climbtim - AltLd - 22/May/04

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Phil Leng

shoulders - 06/Apr/03 with AL

shoulders - Lead - 06/Apr/03 with alexis

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 2003

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Sep/02 with AJ

Hidden - AltLd dog - Sep/02

Led both pitches
cem - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/02 with James Gregory

WB - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Guy

The Plumb line finish
Roget - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/00 with jon

skygodley - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/00 with SarahM

Lead 1st pitch.
JonBray - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Wattsy

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Ben

Drove up from Bristol specifically to do this route before year-end. The coldest my hands have ever been - numb from the wrist down. Good job the holds are good. Great position - great route.
KRB - Lead O/S - 28/Dec/99 with Mike Bridges

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1999

lead 2nd pitch excellent
andyblain - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/98

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/98

Chad123 - AltLd - 1998 with Lard

phardman - 20/Jul/97

ChrisJD - Lead - Jun/97 with Geoff

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 1997 with gaz

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/95

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 1995

Date is a guess. I lead p1, Jane lead p2
jamiev - AltLd O/S - Sep/93 with Jane Palmer

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 1993 with John Williams, Andy Sharp