Rockfax Description
Vying with Supersonic on High Tor as the best E5 on Peak limestone; but this one is almost a full grade harder. E3 5c climbing leads up the groove with good holds and adequate protection to a rest ledge on the right (bomber crucial nuts). Now climb deviously and determinedly up and left to pockets (in-situ thread) below the sloping ledge. Getting established on this is difficult and leads to a semi-rest, but beware, the upper wall climbed from left to right has taken many scalps. Traverse left to the Mortlock's belay or continue up Apocalypse. © Rockfax

FA. P.Livesey, A.Livesey 7.80. Livesey's last great route in the Peak. Jul/1980

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Great Wall Climbs of the UK.


ClimberDateStyle
nathanlee 14/Jul Lead O/S

Brilliant... lived up to its big reputation. Had belayed someone on it recently so had an idea of how to do it. Ended up doing the crux moves a different way though. Impatiently went for it in the full sun, just about paid off! Would be amazing anywhere

with Dom Lee
dominic lee 14/Jul Lead rpt

On Nats gear... 1st lead in 81. I had a go last year but took a nasty tumble above the ledge stripping the post thread runners resulting in a long fall and a broken rib or two. Lost none of its quality or difficulty over the years.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 26/Jun Lead rpt

Great to have come back and done it. Probably around 7b, certainly not a soft touch at E5!! Fantastic route though, brilliant climbing and quite exciting run outs between the gear.

Misha 26/Jun Lead rpt

On Rob's gear after seconding the day before. Found it ok this time - knowing the moves and not being a bit tired from a previous route made a big difference! Got to thread and onto the ledge fine, good rest there. Didn't get the moves off the ledge quite right first go so down limbed. Second go got the right beta - RH in undercut pocket (shared with a cam) and high LF o/s edge to get LH onto diagonal crimp high up. Moving right, couldn't get the balance right to get the good sidepull with RH so ended up crossing through with LH, that worked ok. 7b redpoint ;-) Need to come back to lead it properly! Amazing route.

with Rob G
Misha 25/Jun 2nd dog

Hard! We thought about sport 7b. Gear is ok if you have the right size wires but spaced. Had to have a rest in the middle of the sequence leading up to the thread as couldn't figure it out (needed to use poor feet). Just about scraped up the rest of it with Rob shouting beta.

with Rob G
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 25/Jun Lead dog

Tricky and made all the more so by the absence of chalk and abundance of dust. The moves out leftwards to the thread seemed very unobvious (or at least they did at the time) and the moves from the thread mantelling onto the ledge equally so. Either way, it's clean now and I'll be back tomorrow...

malx 26/Sep/15 Lead G/U

Fell off it once 6 years ago, did it first go this time. Such an amazing route! Best of the year so far, can't believe it's not more popular - was covered in dust and cobwebs. Tough but good gear.

tim newton 02/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Fell off just below the thread, then it started raining heavily, so down climbed taking out the gear

markalmack 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Fucking well good. Think this is the first time I've tied in to an e5 and not been scared. Mega teckers but not too pumpy. Beautiful. Boom!

drysori 05/Oct/14 Lead dog
Brown 09/Jul/14 2nd
with James T
The old James turnbull 09/Jul/14 Lead

Mega! Gave it a good clean on ab first then lead. Amazing climbing, please go do it after the effort we put in to clean it!!

with dave brown
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
JulesV 02/May/11 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
switch ??/2000 Lead β

belayed James on it, then led it on my gear

Seb Grieve ??/2000 -
GeoffG 02/May/99 2nd
Roget 02/Aug/97 Lead G/U

backed off on previous attempt

with jon
Stoney Boy 03/Jul/94 Lead O/S

Took the whipper off the top wall.

with Phil Kane
Steve Walker ??/1993 Lead
with paul entwistle
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Guy Maddox
Hidden 25/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 12/Apr/90 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Dave Douglas 21/Jul/89 2nd dog
with Neil Brodie
ukb shark ??/1988 Lead G/U

Flawed ascent on final push as I yo-yoed to rest at top of starting groove. Terminally pumped on top wall and ended up grabbing two small tufts of grass as I couldnt hold the big flat holds. Unbelievably they held

Hidden 03/Oct/87 Lead
ukb shark 13/Sep/87 Lead dnf
with Seb Grieve
keefe 09/Aug/86 -
with Nora McElroy
Mike Owen 29/Sep/85 Lead rpt
with Harold Walmsley
mitch1960 ??/1984 Lead
with Alan Dance
Mark Kemball 10/Aug/83 Lead dnf
Mike Owen 04/Jul/82 2nd β
with Phil Davidson
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