Rockfax Description
Vying with Supersonic on High Tor as the best E5 on Peak limestone; but this one is almost a full grade harder. Make 5c moves up the groove with good holds and adequate protection to a rest ledge on the right (bomber crucial nuts). Now climb determinedly up and left to pockets (thread) below the sloping ledge. Getting established on this is difficult and leads to a semi-rest. Beware: the upper wall climbed from left to right has taken many scalps. Traverse left to the Mortlock's Arete's belay or right to continue up Apocalypse. © Rockfax
FA. P.Livesey, A.Livesey 7.80. Livesey's last great route in the Peak. Jul/1980.
Trad climbs for sport climbers , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chee Tor Extreme Trad , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , The Festival Of Shite
User | Date | Notes | ||
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phatlad | 18 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Who gave this easy 6b? Thought it was a nails and baffling experience near the thread. What a blinder of a route, another Livesey gem! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Who gave this easy 6b? Thought it was a nails and baffling experience near the thread. What a blinder of a route, another Livesey gem! |
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(High Tor)