Top roped to collect wayne's pro, this is an awesome climb has a bit of everything, some delicate foot work, a hand jam, a crimp, big jugs and flakes, traverse and an overhang, can you ask any more of a 12 metre climb? Was pretty pumped at overhang, Can't wait to complete and lead one day adam84 - TR dnf - 01/Mar/14 with wayne killerstein
ali macphee - TR - 08/Dec/13 with lukerathmell
Blew the O/S trying to pull through that last bulge, final sloper was hard won!
jacobjohncharles - Lead dog - 06/Oct/13
cathymiller - 2nd - 06/Oct/13 with Mike Peak
First lead in 6 months but couldn't sort out my head and arms! Lowered off from the crux and seconded it
Mr-Cowdrey - 2nd RP - 05/Oct/13
Repeat. Harder with all the flakes breaking off and a sketchy finish. E2 5c?
Sean Kelly - TR - 26/Aug/13 with Harry Pearce
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13
Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/Aug/13
Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Aug/13
Brilliant climbing, done both original routes, very good climbing
tim exley - 2nd β - 23/Jul/13 with will hornby
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Jul/13
tomwheeler - Lead - 19/Jul/13 with Perm
jonlord - 2nd O/S - Jul/13
andrea83 - TR RP - 30/Jun/13 with Andy
Hidden - TR RP - 30/Jun/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13
Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/13
wolverine - 2nd - 02/Jun/13 with Nolan Smyth
danJBA - Lead dog - 30/May/13 with James Hoar
Mike Goldthorp - Solo O/S - 30/May/13 with Rose Hall
metal arms - Lead O/S - 25/May/13
Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Dan S
great route, first E1 onsight.
very windy (which made the first half interesting) and cold (which made feeling holds on the second half interesting). After a bit of placing gear and down-climbing to rest in the break it went.
Jack J Keogan - Lead O/S - 15/May/13 with Ewan Davies
Still think its E1, but top end, great climb.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 01/May/13 with Briony
Great climb with an amazing and pumpy finish!
BrionyMartin - 2nd O/S - 01/May/13 with Luke
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Preston Matt
Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Apr/13
Motown - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Jo Day
Nick Biven - 2013
willhornby - 2013
elliptic - Lead - 21/Oct/12 with Lisa
Hard on the fingertips
Cheese Monkey - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/12 with jordon fleming
Jordon Fleming - Lead rpt - 20/Oct/12 with ben darby
awesome route :) the top holds were slightly wet but was ok. wasnt that hard after i found a couple of good crimps at the top, other than that the rest is just quite big moves to big holds
Jordon Fleming - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/12 with simon young
carlgodfrey - TR O/S - 15/Sep/12
Hidden - TR dnf - 15/Sep/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12
Nick Russell - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/12 with Ross Davidson
Was a bit wet and couldn't quite find finishing sloper, hard without juggy flakes
Ross.Cooper - Lead dog - 24/Aug/12 with Harry Yarrow
Lovely and wet!
yarrow - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/12 with Ross.Cooper
nickstephens - Lead - 20/Aug/12 with Gareth Greeves
Put off by broken hold so finished up Don't Stop Now, which is excellent.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Mike Hawkins
Re-placed gear for my teary partner so he could finish the day on a high and not drown the barbie!
nickstephens - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/12 with Gareth Greeves
gg4419 - Lead dog - Aug/12
mark schramm - 04/Jul/12
Jamiet297 - TR β - 04/Jul/12 with mark schramm
RossT - 2nd - 03/Jul/12 with Tim Howell
Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Jun/12
Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/12
Didn't know about broken hold, but we had our suspisions. Took quite a few goes up and down to work out a sequence. We went directly up from the big flake to an okay, but not great, hold for the left in the next horizontal break. From here you get your R foot on top of the flake and rock up, feeling around for whatever you can get with the R. It felt like 5c to me. E1/2 5C?
andy_pemberton - Lead - 27/Jun/12 with Steve Gibson
Very good route, with a very hard start!!!! Truly awesome! Took a while for me to commit to the overhang though.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Kyle Williamson
Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/12
I got the first few moves up onto the small ledge, but didn't want to commit to an unprotected dyno on single crystal crimps without protection. I'd probably give this a shot with a bouldering mat!
cbeard - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/12
efrance24234 - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/12
Sean Kelly - 02/May/12 with Harry Pearce
Hidden - TR O/S - 02/May/12
Oddjob - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/12 with Ramon
guy757 - 16/Apr/12
benchwarmer - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Lizzie
lilliyan - 2nd dnf - 07/Apr/12 with Ewan
jockbmx666 - TR - Apr/12
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Zoe
Ducks Rock - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/12 with marti hallet
Lewis Stewart - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12
Tom Seccombe - Lead dog - 23/Mar/12 with Ben Woods, tj murry
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012
possibly finished up don't stop now.
Jonathan Emett - 2nd dog - 03/Oct/11 with toby
haaaard! especially now some crucial hold(s) has fallen off. well dogged
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 01/Oct/11 with bobby gilbert
5c or possible 6a (i've not been climbing in ages so not sure) doing the rockover now that the crucial holds have gone
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Katherine Sydney
KDhruev - TR O/S - 28/Sep/11
Hidden - TR dog - 28/Sep/11
FInished up Don't Stop Now
gidmord - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Lauren Davies, dmoir
Dibdawg - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/11
An excellent shorter gritstone like climb. Climbed up a down quite a few times on the jugs before finally finding a very 'easy once you know how' sequence to get over the bulge. Well worth 3 stars!!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Becky E
Crafty moves at the start followed by juggy pulling higher up. Very enjoyable!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11
Chappy - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/11
Hidden - TR rpt - 16/Aug/11
dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Dad
wolverine - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Sarah Marks
Hidden - Solo O/S - Jul/11
saet1a - 23/Jun/11
dale1968 - 2nd dog - 03/Jun/11 with Tom
TommityP - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11
Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/May/11
Hidden - 2nd β - 25/May/11
Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/May/11
***THE final jug/flake is no longer. The entire jug pulled off in my hands today, resulting in a 20ft inverter
: )INSPECTION ADVISABLE - there is still a fairly good hold where the jug was but the sling is no more. New runout will most likely warrant E2 5b/c***
...enjoy : )
(me thinks a sneaky cam may have been placed by unknown previously...likely cause)
jakenichol - Lead dnf - 19/May/11
saw the hold ripped of today was a whip of a fall. the cheeky cam wasnt an issue but the hold was hollow it was going to go soon glad ur ok and walked out.
kyebrooks - 2nd dnf - 19/May/11 with bryn mays
Hidden - AltLd RP - 04/May/11
before top flake fell off
misterb - Lead - May/11 with wain
Hidden - 2nd - 30/Apr/11
Took awhile to commit to the start,but got it in the end.First E1(rock fax guide)onsite.
Popkids - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Baz
kdalzell - 2nd - 27/Apr/11 with Liam Fleming
Elaine Budden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with tom bunn
Should be E1!
Sean Kelly - 06/Apr/11 with Tim
Oh sweeeet jugs
msoldn - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Dave
climbed in the mist and cold but still a good route gets E1 in my book and in my opinion
pudding - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with phil jarvis
Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Mar/11
Hidden - TR dnf - 28/Mar/11
mark schramm - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with Chris E
chris ebbutt - Lead - 27/Mar/11 with Mark
Couldn't sort out the exit from the bulge, that little flake is just too far away! Need to grow more muscle!
francois - Lead dnf - 24/Mar/11 with Tammy
little_tammy - 2nd dog - 24/Mar/11 with Francois Bocquet
good climb,bommer gear all the way up. .
ian1234567 - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Gwen Thomson
Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/11
Hidden - Solo rpt - Mar/11
Pete Rigby - Lead dog - Mar/11
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2011 with Emma
climbergg - 2nd - 2011 with cheesesarnie
CptRicActiv - Lead - 2011
CptRicActiv - Lead - 2011
fantastic climbing. totally deserving of its 3 stars and grade of E1 (there is no gear till halfway up)
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/10 with haydn
Hidden - TR - 06/Nov/10
tobydunford - 2nd β - 27/Oct/10
Pumpy lead with experienced seconder.
Rich Wain-Hobson - Lead O/S - Oct/10
Brilliant moves through the overhang - I love granite jugs!
jacobjlloyd - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/10 with Dougie
riddle - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Yasmina
Hidden - 2nd - 25/Sep/10
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/10 with CarolineH
Do the Rock Lobster start and the Hangover finish a great climb HVS 5b*** realy great!!! two contrasting parts slabby start and juggy finish in a great position. SUPER
p.s. much better and probably harder than Aviation
joese7en - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/10
This gets E1 in the WCC book and is well worth it IMO. The start is hard for 5b, and you get high enough to feel a bit bold before the gear.
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Neil Furniss
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10
Very tricky to figure sequence for the crux as it's a blind move over the bulge. A sling on a expanding flake below provides bomber gear, though a slip on the crux gives a fall the tourists waiting for. Favourite route on haytor for sure!
Kemics - Lead RP - 08/Aug/10
mark schramm - Lead - 04/Aug/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10
tom169 - Lead - 25/May/10
mattyork2 - 2nd - 14/Feb/10 with Johnny Richard
Hidden - 2010
Hidden - TR β - 12/Aug/09
kyebrooks - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/09
dubs123 - Jul/09
What a great climb, nice and bold at the bottom then thuggy but bombproof at the top
surfbish - Lead - 29/Jun/09 with Nick
Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/09
tonanf - Lead - Jun/09 with burt
Much better than either original line. Pokey start.
Jon_Warner - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Mark Glaister
don't put a cam behind the top flake! tis way creaky. a short sling does the job and is (probably, possibly, maybe...) better
w.pettet-smith - Lead O/S - 2009
Hidden - TR - 2009
dmoir - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Jay Jackson
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 25/May/04 with Simon Howe
Rob Pitt - 2003
Kafoozalem - 2nd O/S - 1985 with Andy Grieve