Rockfax Description
The combination of the best of two lines gives a technical and exhilarating climb not to be missed. Start at a blank wall with a hand-ledge at head height. Make a hard move to get established on the hand-ledge from where some stretchy moves gain a jug and then the horizontal break. Climb the leftward trending line of overhanging flakes above (good spike-runners) to a final heave over the last bulge to easier ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A much straighter line than either of the originals, brilliant climbing too. Start up letterbox wall and enter right slanting crack (consider a bouldering mat) to the break. Continue steeply, on large holds, until a tricky reach to top out. Bolder and harder than it used to be due to flakes breaking off though still excellent.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

afterthesend 03/Oct Lead β

Seb placed gear, we pulled ropes, I lead.

Graham Westbrook 20/Sep Lead O/S
with Mark Jackson
mjackson 20/Sep 2nd
Tom Seccombe 08/Sep Lead rpt
miriamclaire 29/Aug 2nd dog
Crevisking 18/Aug TR dog
with Steve Hastings
Crevisking 18/Aug TR dog
with Steve Hastings
Phil79 18/Aug TR dog

One for a the lead once I'm fit again.

with Crevisking, Steve H
Master Chief 17/Aug 2nd dnf

Couldn't do the reachy move at the top!

Spearos 17/Aug Lead O/S
Andy Moles 06/Aug 2nd
with Ferdia
ferdia 06/Aug Lead O/S
with Andy
LRob 01/Aug Lead O/S
alice fuller ?/Aug Lead β

beta..well had gear advice from THE Nick Hancock..some of it useful:)Like the climbing. tookages gear faffing.

NickJH 31/Jul 2nd
with Andy Dunhill
tomwright1509 20/Jul Lead O/S
Bob Peters 19/Jul Lead dnf

Tried to go too direct then got seduced by the jugs of Don't Stop Now. Didn't manage that either and gave the tourists a right show effing and blinding. Next time.

Hidden 10/Jul 2nd O/S
Tom Seccombe 08/Jul Lead rpt
with Dan Potheridge
Ian Jones 03/Jul 2nd O/S
with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
cdpuk 27/Jun Lead O/S
daviesp2 20/Jun 2nd
islandlynx 20/Jun Lead G/U

Fell on the crux then got educated by matt. Managed 2nd go.

Matt77 20/Jun Lead RP

Retro flash as I'd seconded it a couple of years ago. Led it clean in a oner, on Shane's gear.

with Shane
Hidden 19/Jun -
chrismadar 17/Jun Lead rpt

Said I would do it on lead last year and finally got round to doing it. A really nice varied climb with some really nice moves, shame I didn't lead first time.

with Andrew Wright, Bradley Gram-Hansen
Rob Davies 15/Jun 2nd

Airborne retreat by Dave on 1st attempt, but he found finishing holds 2nd go. Start is also hard

with Dave Nicol
annep11 08/Jun Lead dnf

Couldn't get the reachy move at the top.

JamieSparkes 07/Jun Lead O/S

great direct route. Start took a few attempts to figure out, but wasn't too bad once I'd decided which foot to step up on. Top section is brilliant well protected jug hauling. (tie down the sling to the cams in the break to stop it lifting off the spike.) *** and low in the grade, perhaps even HVS 5b?

Sam Simpson 28/May Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May 2nd O/S
John Tanner 13/May Lead O/S
with Gareth, Derwood Brooks
Bargate_Champ 09/May Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Feb Lead rpt
DredStripe 17/Jan Lead dog
with Tom
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Colin
nickstephens 30/Dec/14 2nd O/S
with Alex choo-choo-arse Moore, Jordon
mikespooner 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Luke von Freeden, Josh Bamsey
Hidden ?/Dec/14 2nd
supersouthward 30/Nov/14 -
dbrooks 30/Nov/14 Lead β
with gidmord, Gareth
matt_read 30/Nov/14 Lead β

First E2 smashhh! Great route

with Jack Southwood
gidmord 30/Nov/14 2nd β
with dbrooks
LDJ 01/Oct/14 Lead
with Tom
andrewmcleod 17/Sep/14 TR dnf

In cheap Decathlon trainers, surprised I managed to dog my up as far as I did! (up to the top wall)

Lee_Meaden 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
5210Hill 09/Sep/14 Lead RP
jon_gill1 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A great climb that had me climbing upto the big flake jug and back down to the break for a rest several times and till i realised that you use the two small crimps to move through the top section as the flake jug/s to the left are no more!Worth E2 5c for the bottom half alone.

with Geoff Hannis, rosie hawker, ross garfoot
Quarryboy 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

For Me the crux was the lower wall, top was a little pokey and first try tried going up and left but was quite obvious this wasn't the way to go so down climbed to the knee bar to warm hands up before powering through on the holds more to the right.

Alkis 24/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/14 -
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Jul/14 Solo O/S
RobScarisbrick 19/Jul/14 TR dog
EcoClimber 17/Jul/14 Lead β

Climbed @ 2degrees meet (who was belayer?) Struggled on top section & went slightly right towards Don't Stop Now.

snook 12/Jul/14 Lead β

Great route. Had s bit of disco leg at the top of the over hang and had gone a little to the right onto small crimps. Defo staying left next time!

KDSclimber 12/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
with Richard
EcoClimber 12/Jul/14 AltLd dnf

Great route - one I will come back to.

Ewan Russell 10/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor 07/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Joe Costello 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
snook 02/Jul/14 2nd β
Hidden 02/Jul/14 Lead dog
peter.ravenscroft27 01/Jul/14 Lead dnf

just couldn't hack the crux took 3 falls, then seconded tim.

Hidden 30/Jun/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 30/Jun/14 TR
stalbot93 22/Jun/14 Lead RP

first proper E1, such a nice line!

Hidden 22/Jun/14 TR dog
Hidden 22/Jun/14 TR dnf
HardmanJ 22/Jun/14 TR
Hidden 18/Jun/14 TR O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/14 2nd
Angus Taylor 15/Jun/14 2nd dog

missed the final crimps the first time, slapped up better the second and pulled up, beautiful climb!

chrismadar 15/Jun/14 2nd β

First ever E grade climb. Great fun and didn't take a fall. Will be back to get on lead.

onlyfoddington 14/Jun/14 2nd dog

Took me a good number of attempts before I got established on the handledge. I then got as far as where the jugs run out (they have popped off). After the rest I tried it a slightly different way and it didn't seem too hard.

Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead dog
danboast 13/Jun/14 Lead dog
Hidden 26/May/14 TR
Martin Bagshaw 04/May/14 Lead dog

Climbed up and down about 4 times to work out the final bit, rested on gear, then did it. Looking at the topo might have been useful beforehand!

dobby 200 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

I had to down climb from the top section to rest in the break before finally finding the correct sequence

with Ros
James Oswald 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Super varied for a twelve metre route. Hard mantle, tough move to the jug then a reach top section. Ace

with lex
LJC 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Great route, big jugs, one stiff pull at the end.

with Theo
adam84 26/Mar/14 2nd dog

Good climb, mantel shelf is not easily won with delicate footwork and balance required, steady climb to break then it's time to get the guns out, had to rest on crux as arms were pump, will climb it properly. One day

Jackislav 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Alextreme 12/Mar/14 TR dog
adam84 01/Mar/14 TR dnf

Top roped to collect wayne's pro, this is an awesome climb has a bit of everything, some delicate foot work, a hand jam, a crimp, big jugs and flakes, traverse and an overhang, can you ask any more of a 12 metre climb? Was pretty pumped at overhang, Can't wait to complete and lead one day

ali macphee 08/Dec/13 TR
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead dog
cathymiller 06/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd RP
Sean Kelly 26/Aug/13 TR

Repeat. Harder with all the flakes breaking off and a sketchy finish. E2 5c?

with Harry Pearce
Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/13 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Aug/13 Lead dog
tim exley 23/Jul/13 2nd β

Brilliant climbing, done both original routes, very good climbing

hornbywill 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/13 2nd dnf
tomwheeler 19/Jul/13 Lead
with Perm
jonlord ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
andrea83 30/Jun/13 TR RP
with Andy
monkeytennis 30/Jun/13 TR RP
R2B 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S

First lead on Dartmoor. Really nice route with a bit of everything. Great starting moves, good gear and an interesting top out.

with Justin
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd
danJBA 30/May/13 Lead dog
Mike Goldthorp 30/May/13 Solo O/S
with Rose Hall
Kayan 30/May/13 2nd
metal arms 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Dan S
Jack J Keogan 15/May/13 Lead O/S

great route, first E1 onsight. very windy (which made the first half interesting) and cold (which made feeling holds on the second half interesting). After a bit of placing gear and down-climbing to rest in the break it went.

with Ewan Davies
Mr Tickle 01/May/13 Lead O/S

Still think its E1, but top end, great climb.

with Briony
BrionyMartin 01/May/13 2nd O/S

Great climb with an amazing and pumpy finish!

with Luke
Owen W-G 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Right windy!

Matt77 29/Apr/13 2nd dog

Was so windy and cold that I couldn't feel my hands which meant I sort of wussed out!

with Owen
Motown 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Jo Day
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
willhornby ??/2013 -
elliptic 21/Oct/12 Lead
with Lisa
Cheese Monkey 20/Oct/12 2nd dog

Hard on the fingertips

Jordon Fleming 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Jordon Fleming 15/Oct/12 Lead O/S

awesome route :) the top holds were slightly wet but was ok. wasnt that hard after i found a couple of good crimps at the top, other than that the rest is just quite big moves to big holds

carlgodfrey 15/Sep/12 TR O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/12 TR dnf
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 09/Sep/12 2nd dog
Ross.Cooper 24/Aug/12 Lead dog

Was a bit wet and couldn't quite find finishing sloper, hard without juggy flakes

yarrow 24/Aug/12 2nd dog

Lovely and wet!

nickstephens 20/Aug/12 Lead
Ed Babs 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Put off by broken hold so finished up Don't Stop Now, which is excellent.

with Mike Hawkins
nickstephens 18/Aug/12 2nd dog

Re-placed gear for my teary partner so he could finish the day on a high and not drown the barbie!

gg4419 ?/Aug/12 Lead dog
mark schramm 04/Jul/12 -
Jamiet297 04/Jul/12 TR β
RossT 03/Jul/12 2nd
with Tim Howell
Curly Rich 30/Jun/12 2nd dog

1 rest

with GMC JohnP
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead dnf
andy_pemberton 27/Jun/12 Lead

Didn't know about broken hold, but we had our suspisions. Took quite a few goes up and down to work out a sequence. We went directly up from the big flake to an okay, but not great, hold for the left in the next horizontal break. From here you get your R foot on top of the flake and rock up, feeling around for whatever you can get with the R. It felt like 5c to me. E1/2 5C?

with Steve Gibson
Stanners 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Very good route, with a very hard start!!!! Truly awesome! Took a while for me to commit to the overhang though.

Hidden 19/Jun/12 2nd
cbeard 19/Jun/12 Lead dnf

I got the first few moves up onto the small ledge, but didn't want to commit to an unprotected dyno on single crystal crimps without protection. I'd probably give this a shot with a bouldering mat!

efrance24234 13/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly 02/May/12 -
with Harry Pearce
Hidden 02/May/12 TR O/S
Oddjob 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Ramon
guy757 16/Apr/12 -
benchwarmer 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
lilliyan 07/Apr/12 2nd dnf
with Ewan
jockbmx666 ?/Apr/12 TR
Marti999 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Zoe
Ducks Rock 29/Mar/12 2nd dog
Lewis Stewart 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 23/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Ben Woods, tj murry
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 03/Oct/11 2nd dog

possibly finished up don't stop now.

with toby
katherinesydney 01/Oct/11 2nd dog

haaaard! especially now some crucial hold(s) has fallen off. well dogged

Bobby Gilbert 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

5c or possible 6a (i've not been climbing in ages so not sure) doing the rockover now that the crucial holds have gone

KDhruev 28/Sep/11 TR O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 TR dog
gidmord 25/Sep/11 2nd O/S

FInished up Don't Stop Now

Dibdawg 03/Sep/11 Lead dnf
Graeme Hammond 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

An excellent shorter gritstone like climb. Climbed up a down quite a few times on the jugs before finally finding a very 'easy once you know how' sequence to get over the bulge. Well worth 3 stars!!

with Becky E
Cragrat Rich 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Crafty moves at the start followed by juggy pulling higher up. Very enjoyable!

Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Chappy 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/11 TR rpt
dannyboy83 28/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Dad
Hidden 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Solo O/S
MBarraclough 23/Jun/11 Lead
dale1968 03/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Tom
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 25/May/11 2nd β
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead dnf
jakenichol 19/May/11 Lead dnf

***THE final jug/flake is no longer. The entire jug pulled off in my hands today, resulting in a 20ft inverter : )INSPECTION ADVISABLE - there is still a fairly good hold where the jug was but the sling is no more. New runout will most likely warrant E2 5b/c*** ...enjoy : ) (me thinks a sneaky cam may have been placed by unknown previously...likely cause)

kyebrooks 19/May/11 2nd dnf

saw the hold ripped of today was a whip of a fall. the cheeky cam wasnt an issue but the hold was hollow it was going to go soon glad ur ok and walked out.

Hidden 04/May/11 AltLd RP
misterb ?/May/11 Lead

before top flake fell off

with wain
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd
Popkids 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Took awhile to commit to the start,but got it in the end.First E1(rock fax guide)onsite.

with Baz
kdalzell 27/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/11 Lead dog
Elaine Budden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Sean Kelly 06/Apr/11 -

Should be E1!

with Tim
msoldn 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Oh sweeeet jugs

with Dave
pudding 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

climbed in the mist and cold but still a good route gets E1 in my book and in my opinion

with phil jarvis
Hidden 28/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Mar/11 TR dnf
mark schramm 27/Mar/11 2nd
with Chris E
chris ebbutt 27/Mar/11 Lead

Climbed before flake broke off

with Mark
francois 24/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't sort out the exit from the bulge, that little flake is just too far away! Need to grow more muscle!

with Tammy
little_tammy 24/Mar/11 2nd dog
ian1234567 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

good climb,bommer gear all the way up. .

richiebongo 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/11 Solo rpt
Pete Rigby ?/Mar/11 Lead dog
Tim M ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg ??/2011 2nd
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead
Ed morris 14/Nov/10 Lead O/S

fantastic climbing. totally deserving of its 3 stars and grade of E1 (there is no gear till halfway up)

Hidden 06/Nov/10 TR
tobydunford 27/Oct/10 2nd β
Rich Wain-Hobson ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Pumpy lead with experienced seconder.

jacobjlloyd 30/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Brilliant moves through the overhang - I love granite jugs!

with Dougie
dswansonlow 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S
riddle 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd
Bristoldave 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
joese7en 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Do the Rock Lobster start and the Hangover finish a great climb HVS 5b*** realy great!!! two contrasting parts slabby start and juggy finish in a great position. SUPER p.s. much better and probably harder than Aviation

Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S

This gets E1 in the WCC book and is well worth it IMO. The start is hard for 5b, and you get high enough to feel a bit bold before the gear.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Kemics 08/Aug/10 Lead RP

Very tricky to figure sequence for the crux as it's a blind move over the bulge. A sling on a expanding flake below provides bomber gear, though a slip on the crux gives a fall the tourists waiting for. Favourite route on haytor for sure!

mark schramm 04/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
tom169 25/May/10 Lead
mattyork2 14/Feb/10 2nd
with Johnny Richard
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 12/Aug/09 TR β
kyebrooks 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S
dubs123 ?/Jul/09 -
surfbish 29/Jun/09 Lead

What a great climb, nice and bold at the bottom then thuggy but bombproof at the top

with Nick
Hidden 07/Jun/09 2nd
tonanf ?/Jun/09 Lead
with burt
Jon_Warner 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Much better than either original line. Pokey start.

with Mark Glaister
w.pettet-smith ??/2009 Lead O/S

don't put a cam behind the top flake! tis way creaky. a short sling does the job and is (probably, possibly, maybe...) better

Hidden ??/2009 TR
dmoir 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/08 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 25/May/04 Lead O/S
with Simon Howe
Rob Pitt ??/2003 -
Steveb27 ??/2000 AltLd
Simon cook ??/1988 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 2nd O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, stephen ashworth, Alan100, Hidden, Master Chief, hcaw, nickevens, BelayBunney, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 51
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set