I had to down climb from the top section to rest in the break before finally finding the correct sequencedobby 200 - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Ros
Super varied for a twelve metre route. Hard mantle, tough move to the jug then a reach top section. Ace
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/14 with lex
Great route, big jugs, one stiff pull at the end.
LJC - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Theo
Good climb, mantel shelf is not easily won with delicate footwork and balance required, steady climb to break then it's time to get the guns out, had to rest on crux as arms were pump, will climb it properly. One day
adam84 - 2nd dog - 26/Mar/14 with darren swift
Jackislav - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/14
Top roped to collect wayne's pro, this is an awesome climb has a bit of everything, some delicate foot work, a hand jam, a crimp, big jugs and flakes, traverse and an overhang, can you ask any more of a 12 metre climb? Was pretty pumped at overhang, Can't wait to complete and lead one day
adam84 - TR dnf - 01/Mar/14 with wayne killerstein
ali macphee - TR - 08/Dec/13 with lukerathmell
Blew the O/S trying to pull through that last bulge, final sloper was hard won!
jacobjohncharles - Lead dog - 06/Oct/13
cathymiller - 2nd - 06/Oct/13 with Mike Peak
First lead in 6 months but couldn't sort out my head and arms! Lowered off from the crux and seconded it
Mr-Cowdrey - 2nd RP - 05/Oct/13
Repeat. Harder with all the flakes breaking off and a sketchy finish. E2 5c?
Sean Kelly - TR - 26/Aug/13 with Harry Pearce
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13
Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/Aug/13
Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Aug/13
Brilliant climbing, done both original routes, very good climbing
tim exley - 2nd β - 23/Jul/13 with will hornby
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Jul/13
tomwheeler - Lead - 19/Jul/13 with Perm
jonlord - 2nd O/S - Jul/13
andrea83 - TR RP - 30/Jun/13 with Andy
monkeytennis - TR RP - 30/Jun/13 with andrea83
First lead on Dartmoor. Really nice route with a bit of everything. Great starting moves, good gear and an interesting top out.
R2B - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Justin
Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/13
wolverine - 2nd - 02/Jun/13 with Nolan Smyth
danJBA - Lead dog - 30/May/13 with James Hoar
Mike Goldthorp - Solo O/S - 30/May/13 with Rose Hall
metal arms - Lead O/S - 25/May/13
Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Dan S
great route, first E1 onsight.
very windy (which made the first half interesting) and cold (which made feeling holds on the second half interesting). After a bit of placing gear and down-climbing to rest in the break it went.
Jack J Keogan - Lead O/S - 15/May/13 with Ewan Davies
Still think its E1, but top end, great climb.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 01/May/13 with Briony
Great climb with an amazing and pumpy finish!
BrionyMartin - 2nd O/S - 01/May/13 with Luke
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Preston Matt
Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Apr/13
Motown - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Jo Day
Nick Biven - 2013
willhornby - 2013
elliptic - Lead - 21/Oct/12 with Lisa
Hard on the fingertips
Cheese Monkey - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/12 with jordon fleming
Jordon Fleming - Lead rpt - 20/Oct/12 with ben darby
awesome route :) the top holds were slightly wet but was ok. wasnt that hard after i found a couple of good crimps at the top, other than that the rest is just quite big moves to big holds
Jordon Fleming - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/12 with simon young
carlgodfrey - TR O/S - 15/Sep/12
Hidden - TR dnf - 15/Sep/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12
Nick Russell - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/12 with Ross Davidson
Was a bit wet and couldn't quite find finishing sloper, hard without juggy flakes
Ross.Cooper - Lead dog - 24/Aug/12 with Harry Yarrow
Lovely and wet!
yarrow - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/12 with Ross.Cooper
nickstephens - Lead - 20/Aug/12 with Gareth Greeves
Put off by broken hold so finished up Don't Stop Now, which is excellent.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Mike Hawkins
Re-placed gear for my teary partner so he could finish the day on a high and not drown the barbie!
nickstephens - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/12 with Gareth Greeves
gg4419 - Lead dog - Aug/12
mark schramm - 04/Jul/12
Jamiet297 - TR β - 04/Jul/12 with mark schramm
RossT - 2nd - 03/Jul/12 with Tim Howell
Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Jun/12
Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/12
Didn't know about broken hold, but we had our suspisions. Took quite a few goes up and down to work out a sequence. We went directly up from the big flake to an okay, but not great, hold for the left in the next horizontal break. From here you get your R foot on top of the flake and rock up, feeling around for whatever you can get with the R. It felt like 5c to me. E1/2 5C?
andy_pemberton - Lead - 27/Jun/12 with Steve Gibson
Very good route, with a very hard start!!!! Truly awesome! Took a while for me to commit to the overhang though.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Kyle Williamson
Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/12
I got the first few moves up onto the small ledge, but didn't want to commit to an unprotected dyno on single crystal crimps without protection. I'd probably give this a shot with a bouldering mat!
cbeard - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/12
efrance24234 - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/12
Sean Kelly - 02/May/12 with Harry Pearce
Hidden - TR O/S - 02/May/12
Oddjob - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/12 with Ramon
guy757 - 16/Apr/12
benchwarmer - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Lizzie
lilliyan - 2nd dnf - 07/Apr/12 with Ewan
jockbmx666 - TR - Apr/12
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Zoe
Ducks Rock - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/12 with marti hallet
Lewis Stewart - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12
Tom Seccombe - Lead dog - 23/Mar/12 with Ben Woods, tj murry
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012
possibly finished up don't stop now.
Jonathan Emett - 2nd dog - 03/Oct/11 with toby
haaaard! especially now some crucial hold(s) has fallen off. well dogged
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 01/Oct/11 with bobby gilbert
5c or possible 6a (i've not been climbing in ages so not sure) doing the rockover now that the crucial holds have gone
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Katherine Sydney
KDhruev - TR O/S - 28/Sep/11
Hidden - TR dog - 28/Sep/11
FInished up Don't Stop Now
gidmord - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Lauren Davies, dmoir
Dibdawg - Lead dnf - 03/Sep/11
An excellent shorter gritstone like climb. Climbed up a down quite a few times on the jugs before finally finding a very 'easy once you know how' sequence to get over the bulge. Well worth 3 stars!!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Becky E
Crafty moves at the start followed by juggy pulling higher up. Very enjoyable!
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11
Chappy - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/11
Hidden - TR rpt - 16/Aug/11
dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Dad
wolverine - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Sarah Marks
Hidden - Solo O/S - Jul/11
saet1a - 23/Jun/11
dale1968 - 2nd dog - 03/Jun/11 with Tom
TommityP - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11
Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/May/11
Hidden - 2nd β - 25/May/11
Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/May/11
***THE final jug/flake is no longer. The entire jug pulled off in my hands today, resulting in a 20ft inverter
: )INSPECTION ADVISABLE - there is still a fairly good hold where the jug was but the sling is no more. New runout will most likely warrant E2 5b/c***
...enjoy : )
(me thinks a sneaky cam may have been placed by unknown previously...likely cause)
jakenichol - Lead dnf - 19/May/11
saw the hold ripped of today was a whip of a fall. the cheeky cam wasnt an issue but the hold was hollow it was going to go soon glad ur ok and walked out.
kyebrooks - 2nd dnf - 19/May/11 with bryn mays
Hidden - AltLd RP - 04/May/11
before top flake fell off
misterb - Lead - May/11 with wain
Hidden - 2nd - 30/Apr/11
Took awhile to commit to the start,but got it in the end.First E1(rock fax guide)onsite.
Popkids - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Baz
kdalzell - 2nd - 27/Apr/11 with Liam Fleming
Elaine Budden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with tom bunn
Should be E1!
Sean Kelly - 06/Apr/11 with Tim
Oh sweeeet jugs
msoldn - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Dave
climbed in the mist and cold but still a good route gets E1 in my book and in my opinion
pudding - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with phil jarvis
Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Mar/11
Hidden - TR dnf - 28/Mar/11
mark schramm - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with Chris E
chris ebbutt - Lead - 27/Mar/11 with Mark
Couldn't sort out the exit from the bulge, that little flake is just too far away! Need to grow more muscle!
francois - Lead dnf - 24/Mar/11 with Tammy
little_tammy - 2nd dog - 24/Mar/11 with Francois Bocquet
good climb,bommer gear all the way up. .
ian1234567 - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Gwen Thomson
Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/11
Hidden - Solo rpt - Mar/11
Pete Rigby - Lead dog - Mar/11
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2011 with Emma
climbergg - 2nd - 2011 with cheesesarnie
CptRicActiv - Lead - 2011
CptRicActiv - Lead - 2011
fantastic climbing. totally deserving of its 3 stars and grade of E1 (there is no gear till halfway up)
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/10 with haydn
Hidden - TR - 06/Nov/10
tobydunford - 2nd β - 27/Oct/10
Pumpy lead with experienced seconder.
Rich Wain-Hobson - Lead O/S - Oct/10
Brilliant moves through the overhang - I love granite jugs!
jacobjlloyd - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/10 with Dougie
riddle - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Yasmina
Hidden - 2nd - 25/Sep/10
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/10 with CarolineH
Do the Rock Lobster start and the Hangover finish a great climb HVS 5b*** realy great!!! two contrasting parts slabby start and juggy finish in a great position. SUPER
p.s. much better and probably harder than Aviation
joese7en - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/10
This gets E1 in the WCC book and is well worth it IMO. The start is hard for 5b, and you get high enough to feel a bit bold before the gear.
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Neil Furniss
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/10
Very tricky to figure sequence for the crux as it's a blind move over the bulge. A sling on a expanding flake below provides bomber gear, though a slip on the crux gives a fall the tourists waiting for. Favourite route on haytor for sure!
Kemics - Lead RP - 08/Aug/10
mark schramm - Lead - 04/Aug/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10
tom169 - Lead - 25/May/10
mattyork2 - 2nd - 14/Feb/10 with Johnny Richard
Hidden - 2010
Hidden - TR β - 12/Aug/09
kyebrooks - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/09
dubs123 - Jul/09
What a great climb, nice and bold at the bottom then thuggy but bombproof at the top
surfbish - Lead - 29/Jun/09 with Nick
Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/09
tonanf - Lead - Jun/09 with burt
Much better than either original line. Pokey start.
Jon_Warner - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Mark Glaister
don't put a cam behind the top flake! tis way creaky. a short sling does the job and is (probably, possibly, maybe...) better
w.pettet-smith - Lead O/S - 2009
Hidden - TR - 2009
dmoir - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Jay Jackson
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08
Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/May/08
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 25/May/04 with Simon Howe
Rob Pitt - 2003
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1985