Incubus*** E1 5b
[Incubus, 4 kb]

Rockfax Description
A lesson in adventure on a route with a fearful name and reputation gives a sensational trip onto the Sanctuary Wall at a reasonable grade. Start at the notch on the landward side of the Sanctuary Wall.
1) 5b, 9m. From the notch, step down over the void, and make a tricky move left onto an easier ramp. Follow this a short way, peg, to a flat ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Take the corner above and pass the overhang on the left by via a steep layback. Easier climbing gains the top. Nuts and an iron spike just below the ridge. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Incubus © Sue Hazel
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 49 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

tom169 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/15 with Jamie

darcan - AltLd - 04/Jul/15 with nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/15

led p2, great exposed positions but lots of loose rock at the top
dbrooks - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/15 with Dr Dave, John

Bristoldave - 2nd rpt - 28/Feb/15 with Derwood, john

Led first pitch, went too far down but found a route through
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/15 with Bristoldave, Derwood Brooks

Led first pitch - a bit scary with not much gear in the middle
mick1jones - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Rich Rogers

Led pitch 1 in reverse to escape from Incubus Direct.
alice fuller - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with kafoozalem

P1. After Black Ice. Good way round in my opinion.
R2B - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Rooker

Nice climb. Good to get it done after being rained off it last time.
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with RusseyB

great adventure, shame about the looseness at top
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Mark

Avon Man - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/14 with msoldn

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/13

Led p1 traverse and had a massive downpour just before the crux on the top pitch. Had to bail due to top pitch being soaked, luckily able to just reach the edge of the rock below. Had to leave some gear in the belay :-(
Mr Tickle - Lead dnf - 20/Oct/13 with RusseyB

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Sarp

sarpedon - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Strong Sophhie

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Andy

Very intimidating climbing into the void!. Very delicate initial traverse, as scary for the second as the leader. I led the second pitch, the crux needed a bit of thinking about but is not too bad if you sort your footwork out.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Martin Haworth

Dale Turrell - 2nd O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Dave

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Dale

E1 5a. Not one to push your grade on. Went low and used ledge for hands. Paul went feet on ledge.
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Paul Roberts

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/12

Okecroak - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/12 with W. Frost

Lead P2
Motown - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/12 with Richy

wicked climb wasnt to sure about the crap at the top:D lead both pitchs partner was having an off day and ill have that pint :P
JackHatton - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with richy mardell

Seconded both pitches as I was terrified. Cracking route! Pint on me Jack. (Led 1st pitch today. 22nd April 2012. With Will.)
Richy boy - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with JackHatton

mark schramm - Lead dog - 25/Feb/12 with tom m

tommoulds - 2nd - 25/Feb/12 with Schramm

e1 for exposure and barndoor off p2 crux.tricky
misterb - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/11 with wain

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

mark schramm - 2nd - 01/Aug/10 with Dave C

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Andy Reeve

Great route, loads of exposure from the start. Use the ledge for feet not hands! i tried a contortionist version and failed.
francois - 2nd - 17/Jul/10 with Chawn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/09

dmoir - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/09 with Lauren Davies

Lauren Davies - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/09 with Dave Moir

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Apr/08

AJH - AltLd - 26/Jan/08 with Crispin

Justin T - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/07 with Crispin

climber sim - 2007

nopants - 2nd - 2007 with Rob

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Oct/02

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/99

colin milton - AltLd - 21/May/96 with eric milton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/92

ecowaller - Lead O/S - 1990 with Wendy Sampson, Andy Reid

ecowaller - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lee_Meaden, Alex the Alex, Master Chief, AJH, Ybot Htulk, twright180, Reeges, Dave Searle

Total votes cast 41
hard E20 of 19
E20 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard E10 of 19
E18 of 19
easy E16 of 19
hard HVS0 of 19
HVS5 of 19
easy HVS0 of 19
hard 5c0 of 2
5c0 of 2
easy 5c0 of 2
hard 5b0 of 2
5b2 of 2
easy 5b0 of 2
hard 5a0 of 2
5a0 of 2
easy 5a0 of 2
3 Stars12 of 20
2 Stars7 of 20
1 Star1 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat