North Yorkshire > Kilnsey >
 
Biological Need*** 7c

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[Biological Need Area, 3 kb]20m. A superb and popular route straight up the steepening wall right of Exponential Exhaustion. There is a small rest below the roof before a big spike-jug provides the key to the finish. © ROCKFAX
FA. Mick Lovatt, Ian Horrocks 1988. A large wobbly jug went AWOL in the late 1990's and the grade went up to 8a. It has now been restored to its original grade by the addition of a similar large jug.

Ticklists: Classic UK F7s.

Photo: Biological Need Area © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 63 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

nickmoulden - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/14 with zoe bidula

jfreeman - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Adam Jeffs

adamjeffs - Lead RP - 29/Jun/14 with John

In a day, 4th go, 2nd RP. Truly great route: crimpy sustained and very technical. Not a wasted inch - every move is "a move"... and they keep on coming to the end!
thebigfriendlymoose - Lead RP - 14/Jun/14 with Sam Harvie

Class route. 1 RP.
Bennykr - Lead RP - 22/May/14 with Andy tappa

atapper21 - Lead RP - 22/May/14 with Ben Reinsch

1st 7c - whoop
WB - Lead RP - 14/Aug/13 with Nick

Hidden - Lead RP - Jul/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/May/13

So nearly off throwing from the side pull to the top jug. had extended to clip from the final rail but couldn't let go long enough to clip it and it was fight or flight.
julesp - Lead RP - 12/Aug/12 with amanda

2 overlapping links taking in crux
julesp - TR dog - 11/Aug/12 with amanda and tim

julesp - TR dog - 09/Aug/12 with Iain

julesp - TR dog - 08/Aug/12 with Iain

focused on top section. Sorted out sequence for crux. top moves are going to be my crux. can do the move in isolation but going to be hard to do it after all that climbing!
julesp - TR dog - 05/Aug/12 with Iain

fantastic climb. havent worked out how to get to the crimp at the crux sequence. totally knackered after working out a sequence for the first half.
julesp - TR dog - 04/Aug/12 with Iain

Hidden - TR dog - Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 28/Mar/12

Couldn't work out where the rest below the roof was - seems it's at the bottom of the crag!
GPN - Lead dog - 07/Aug/11 with Mike Binks

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Sean_J - Lead RP - 09/Sep/10 with Andy

Really sustained and quite a technical crux now the hold has gone. Solid 7c
derico - Lead RP - 01/Jul/10 with Cal

2nd try. Fell of between 1st and second clip lowered to ground then flashed to the top! Nice route.
Nicolas Duboust - Lead - 11/Jun/10

nickmoulden - Lead RP - 18/May/10 with Ako

Jon Garside - Lead RP - May/10

awesome! third go. screaming like a nutter on top moves
marcpontin - Lead RP - 2010 with huw

JM - 2010

JM - 2010

Adam Lincoln - Lead - 2010

Bolt 2 bolt, TR, in 4 sections, fell off going for spike, fell off going for very top, BAGGED IT. Decent rests all the way, wicked route.
Alex Mason - Lead RP - 16/Aug/09 with Steve Ramsden

Hidden - Lead β - 09/Aug/09

3rd go!
buzby78 - Lead RP - 09/Jul/09 with Sam Clarke

dominic lee - Lead RP - 05/Jul/09 with neil foster

Gus - Lead RP - 04/Jul/09

ultra-dogging - sat on every bolt. i was knackered plus this is quite tricky. bolting a bit suspect but this is Kilnsey (not that thats an excuse). backhand move at top of the groove took me 5? attempts to do - felt hard. superb sustained climbing, i will be back when fresh.
ksjs - Lead dog - 24/Jun/09 with john

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/08

bigie bob - Lead RP - 24/May/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/May/08

Hidden - Lead RP - 22/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Apr/07

Toby - Lead RP - Aug/06 with Tom N

Very good route, pumpy at the top.
andy farnell - Lead RP - 23/Jul/06 with tbertenshaw

nige - Lead RP - 01/Jun/06 with jenny woodward

Boy - 2006

mgeek - Lead RP - 2006 with Tom Bolger

Henners - Lead RP - 01/Sep/05 with Alan Cassidy

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Jun/04

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - Aug/03

Cassidy - Lead RP - 25/Jun/02 with Scottish Raiding Party

Hidden - Lead RP - 1996

1st redpoint
Billg - Lead RP - Jul/95 with Phil McAllistair

robyn1 - 1995

Steve Crowe - Lead RP - 28/Aug/94 with KM

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/93

keefe - 1993

Hidden - Lead RP - 29/Jun/91

mark mcgowan01 - Lead - 1990

Mike Owen - 21/Jun/89 with Dave Hinton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, thebigfriendlymoose, Arcarn, chris_j_s, Mike Goldthorp, Hidden, robbo, selman, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 75
hard 7c+0 of 43
7c+0 of 43
easy 7c+1 of 43
hard 7c8 of 43
7c23 of 43
easy 7c7 of 43
hard 7b+4 of 43
7b+0 of 43
easy 7b+0 of 43
3 Stars28 of 32
2 Stars4 of 32
1 Star0 of 32
0 Stars0 of 32
Bag of .....0 of 32
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Style of ascent

Lead51 of 63 (81.0%)
Toproped6 of 63 (9.5%)
Unknown6 of 63 (9.5%)

'Climbed'12 of 63 (19.0%)
clean O/S2 of 63 (3.2%)
clean β1 of 63 (1.6%)
clean rpt2 of 63 (3.2%)
clean RP35 of 63 (55.6%)
dogged11 of 63 (17.5%)