A popular classic that heads straight up the steepening wall right of Exponential Exhaustion. There is a small rest below the roof before a big spike-jug provides the key to the finish. © Rockfax
FA. Mick Lovatt, Ian Horrocks 1988. A large wobbly jug went AWOL in the late 1990's and the grade went up to 8a. It has now been restored to its original grade by the addition of a similar large jug.
Ticklists: Classic UK F7s.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
First 7c, 2 sessions
Wild move to get the spike, full on dyno! Sure there must be as easier way...Did not expect to get this onsight. Fantastic route
|Albert Exley||05/Aug||Lead dog|
Did all the moves apart from bottling at the end!
|Matt Cooke||21/Jun||Lead RP|
|Leon Laubscher||06/Jun||Lead RP|
|C coldwell-storry||17/May||Lead RP|
|henry peter jenkins||08/Sep/14||Lead RP||
fun fingery route with an exciting finish :)
|Luke Dawson||02/Sep/14||Lead RP||
|henry peter jenkins||30/Aug/14||Lead dog||
In a day, 4th go, 2nd RP. Truly great route: crimpy sustained and very technical. Not a wasted inch - every move is "a move"... and they keep on coming to the end!
Class route. 1 RP.
1st 7c - whoop
So nearly off throwing from the side pull to the top jug. had extended to clip from the final rail but couldn't let go long enough to clip it and it was fight or flight.
2 overlapping links taking in crux
amanda and tim
focused on top section. Sorted out sequence for crux. top moves are going to be my crux. can do the move in isolation but going to be hard to do it after all that climbing!
fantastic climb. havent worked out how to get to the crimp at the crux sequence. totally knackered after working out a sequence for the first half.
Couldn't work out where the rest below the roof was - seems it's at the bottom of the crag!
Really sustained and quite a technical crux now the hold has gone. Solid 7c
2nd try. Fell of between 1st and second clip lowered to ground then flashed to the top! Nice route.
|Jon Garside||?/May/10||Lead RP|
awesome! third go. screaming like a nutter on top moves
|Alex Mason||16/Aug/09||Lead RP||
Bolt 2 bolt, TR, in 4 sections, fell off going for spike, fell off going for very top, BAGGED IT. Decent rests all the way, wicked route.
|dominic lee||05/Jul/09||Lead RP||
ultra-dogging - sat on every bolt. i was knackered plus this is quite tricky. bolting a bit suspect but this is Kilnsey (not that thats an excuse). backhand move at top of the groove took me 5? attempts to do - felt hard. superb sustained climbing, i will be back when fresh.
|bigie bob||24/May/08||Lead RP|
|andy farnell||23/Jul/06||Lead RP||
Very good route, pumpy at the top.
|Rich Kirby||02/Jun/04||Lead RP||
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||?/Aug/03||Lead O/S|
Scottish Raiding Party
One Day Ascent
|Glenn Sutcliffe||??/1995||Lead O/S||
Bit of a guess on the date, remember having to try pretty hard at the top
|Steve Crowe||28/Aug/94||Lead RP||
|Mike Owen||29/May/94||Lead rpt||
|Mike Owen||22/Jul/92||Lead rpt||
|Mike Owen||21/Jun/89||Lead RP||