Rockfax Description
A popular classic that heads straight up the steepening wall right of Exponential Exhaustion. There is a small rest below the roof before a big spike-jug provides the key to the finish. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Lovatt, Ian Horrocks 1988. A large wobbly jug went AWOL in the late 1990's and the grade went up to 8a. It has now been restored to its original grade by the addition of a similar large jug.

Ticklists: Classic UK F7s.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 30/Aug Lead RP
oread 29/Aug Lead

First 7c, 2 sessions

Glyn 09/Aug Lead O/S

Wild move to get the spike, full on dyno! Sure there must be as easier way...Did not expect to get this onsight. Fantastic route

Hidden 08/Aug Lead RP
Albert Exley 05/Aug Lead dog
robman 22/Jul Lead dnf

Did all the moves apart from bottling at the end!

Hidden 05/Jul Lead dog
Matt Cooke 21/Jun Lead RP
Leon Laubscher 06/Jun Lead RP
C coldwell-storry 17/May Lead RP
Hidden 23/Apr Lead RP
Hidden 23/Apr Lead dog
henry peter jenkins 08/Sep/14 Lead RP

fun fingery route with an exciting finish :)

luis bachini
Luke Dawson 02/Sep/14 Lead RP
Connor Bryne
innes 31/Aug/14 Lead RP
henry peter jenkins 30/Aug/14 Lead dog
BillyRidal 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
nickmoulden 08/Jul/14 Lead rpt
zoe bidula
jfreeman 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Adam Jeffs
adamjeffs 29/Jun/14 Lead RP
thebigfriendlymoose 14/Jun/14 Lead RP

In a day, 4th go, 2nd RP. Truly great route: crimpy sustained and very technical. Not a wasted inch - every move is "a move"... and they keep on coming to the end!

Sam Harvie
Bennykr 22/May/14 Lead RP

Class route. 1 RP.

atapper21 22/May/14 Lead RP
Ben Reinsch
WB 14/Aug/13 Lead RP

1st 7c - whoop

Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead dog
julesp 12/Aug/12 Lead RP

So nearly off throwing from the side pull to the top jug. had extended to clip from the final rail but couldn't let go long enough to clip it and it was fight or flight.

julesp 11/Aug/12 TR dog

2 overlapping links taking in crux

amanda and tim
julesp 09/Aug/12 TR dog
julesp 08/Aug/12 TR dog
julesp 05/Aug/12 TR dog

focused on top section. Sorted out sequence for crux. top moves are going to be my crux. can do the move in isolation but going to be hard to do it after all that climbing!

julesp 04/Aug/12 TR dog

fantastic climb. havent worked out how to get to the crimp at the crux sequence. totally knackered after working out a sequence for the first half.

Hidden ?/Aug/12 TR dog
Hidden 28/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 Lead RP
GPN 07/Aug/11 Lead dog

Couldn't work out where the rest below the roof was - seems it's at the bottom of the crag!

Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Sean_J 09/Sep/10 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
derico 01/Jul/10 Lead RP

Really sustained and quite a technical crux now the hold has gone. Solid 7c

NDD 11/Jun/10 Lead

2nd try. Fell of between 1st and second clip lowered to ground then flashed to the top! Nice route.

nickmoulden 18/May/10 Lead RP
Jon Garside ?/May/10 Lead RP
marcpontin ??/2010 Lead RP

awesome! third go. screaming like a nutter on top moves

JM ??/2010 -
JM ??/2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2010 Lead
Alex Mason 16/Aug/09 Lead RP

Bolt 2 bolt, TR, in 4 sections, fell off going for spike, fell off going for very top, BAGGED IT. Decent rests all the way, wicked route.

Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead β
buzby78 09/Jul/09 Lead RP

3rd go!

Sam Clarke
dominic lee 05/Jul/09 Lead RP
neil foster
Gus 04/Jul/09 Lead RP
ksjs 24/Jun/09 Lead dog

ultra-dogging - sat on every bolt. i was knackered plus this is quite tricky. bolting a bit suspect but this is Kilnsey (not that thats an excuse). backhand move at top of the groove took me 5? attempts to do - felt hard. superb sustained climbing, i will be back when fresh.

Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead RP
bigie bob 24/May/08 Lead RP
Hidden 23/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Apr/07 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead RP
Toby ?/Aug/06 Lead RP
Tom N
andy farnell 23/Jul/06 Lead RP

Very good route, pumpy at the top.

nige 01/Jun/06 Lead RP
jenny woodward
Boy ??/2006 -
mgeek ??/2006 Lead RP
Tom Bolger
Henners 01/Sep/05 Lead RP
Alan Cassidy
Rich Kirby 02/Jun/04 Lead RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Cassidy 25/Jun/02 Lead RP
Scottish Raiding Party
Smith42 ??/1996 Lead RP

One Day Ascent

Billg ?/Jul/95 Lead RP

1st redpoint

Phil McAllistair
robyn1 ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 Lead O/S

Bit of a guess on the date, remember having to try pretty hard at the top

Paul Cornforth
Steve Crowe 28/Aug/94 Lead RP
Mike Owen 29/May/94 Lead rpt
Elaine Owen
Hidden 31/Jul/93 Lead
keefe ??/1993 -
Mike Owen 22/Jul/92 Lead rpt
Elaine Owen
Hidden 29/Jun/91 Lead RP
mark mcgowan01 ??/1990 Lead
Mike Owen 21/Jun/89 Lead RP
Dave Hinton
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set