Rockfax Description
The super-steep line on the left side of the wall is one of the UK's great 7c pitches. A couple of pieces of gear are needed at the start. The pull leftwards into the steep crack above the first overhang is difficult but the final lurch over the roof to gain the lower-off is the crux. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Berzins, Chris Sowden 1985

Ticklists: 15 Climbs to do before you die, Extreme Rock, Classic UK F7s, Mike and Connors 2 year plan.

Hidden 03/Sep Lead
tim newton 19/Aug Lead RP

1st 7c. Second session

John Brayshaw 17/Aug TR dnf
with Dan
tim newton 17/Aug Lead dog
with Mark Richardson
stp 28/Jul Lead RP

6 days of tries and first route of this grade for about 20 years. An anti-style of route for me, big locks on good holds so all the more satisfying. Great route and a real tussle at the very top coz I was completely pumped.

with Ben Moon
Bennykr 16/Jul Lead RP
with Sam Rad
rikbattye 10/Jul Lead RP

Did it second go, but only just!!

drcorbasisgod 23/Jun Lead RP
with Marc Weisner
markalmack 11/Jun Lead RP
with will
cjd91 05/Jun Lead RP

mega, cool to get this one in the bag

sev 26/May Lead dog
Luke Brooks 25/May Lead RP

2nd go. Awesome route. Bit of a sting in the tail!

Glyn 25/May Lead RP

Wow, what a line! Stunning postions. Sustained and steady climbing with a few hard moves up to the roof then couple of super powerful pulls to get to the belay. Pleased to get to first redpoint

with Luke
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Yes! Have been saving this for many, many years and it didn't disappoint. Nearly fell off eyeballing the belay. Best 7c in the UK?

with Andy Cave
sheppy 27/Sep/14 TR dog

Got it all worked out now. Two big links essentially but came off the last move. just need to remember it for next year.

sheppy 26/Sep/14 Lead dog

Glad to get on this at last. Brilliant climbing in spectacular position.

with Iain MacD
cjsheps 02/Sep/14 Lead RP

3rd go. Brilliant climbing, proper Euro-style.

henry peter jenkins 29/Aug/14 Lead RP
with mark lincoln, luis bachini
LRob 27/Aug/14 Lead RP

In a session, a session that lasted 2 days. Well chuffed

julesp 23/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Iain
julesp 20/Aug/14 TR dog
with Mhairi
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 16/Aug/14 Lead RP

Brilliant pitch, one that I'd wanted to do for years but never believed myself to be good enough. Doing it in a session put those doubts to bed somewhat.

julesp 03/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Iain and mhairi
Leon Laubscher 02/Aug/14 Lead RP
julesp 02/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Iain and mhairi
julesp 01/Aug/14 TR dog
with Mhairi
BillyRidal 01/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Jul/14 TR dog
WB 17/Jul/14 Lead RP

Brilliant route. Very plesaed to climb it.

with Martin
henry peter jenkins 17/Jul/14 Lead dog
with andy tappa, luis bachini, emilio bachini
atapper21 16/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead RP
adamjeffs 29/Jun/14 Lead RP
with John
datoon 24/Jun/14 Lead RP
nathanlee 23/Jun/14 Lead RP

superb, very surprised to get up this in the circumstances!

with Neil Mawson
Ethan 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Don Walker
Hidden 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt
thebigfriendlymoose 21/May/14 Lead RP

Shaking out under the final roof: a very lonely place to be! Procrastinating the finale

with David Stainforth
ejected ??/2014 -
Luke Dawson 08/Aug/13 Lead RP
emily_allen 14/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Jun/13 Lead RP
dominic lee 22/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Jun/13 TR RP
Dave Douglas 16/Jun/13 Lead dog
Alex Mason 09/Jun/13 Lead RP

2nd go. dropped it going to the pocket jugs in the second groove, but would have dropped it at over the top lip otherwise. Awesome route but the finish is a bit nasty and awkward.

with Jemma Powell, George Ullrich
innes 01/Jun/13 Lead RP

Classy route.

with Ruth
Apharri 03/May/13 Lead RP
with Steve Franklin
ejected ??/2013 -
C coldwell-storry 06/Sep/12 Lead RP
with liam taylor
thebigfriendlymoose 12/Aug/12 Lead dog

One rest (fell at top crux).

with Andy F
Ed Booth 05/Aug/12 Lead dog

fell on flash. Only had timme for 1 redders and dropped in groove.

Gus 05/Aug/12 Lead RP
julesp 15/Jul/12 TR dog

took most of day to get sequence for getting over first roof. need to bridge high to reach undercling and go up with right hand first and squueeeeze the block. amazing route!

with nathan
Hidden 19/Jun/12 Lead dog
jacobjacob 14/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead dog
willsm11 28/Aug/11 Lead RP
Mat Welsh ?/Aug/11 Lead RP

First 7c - Long sustained overhang on mostly good holds with lower and finishing cruxes. Like Spanish rock...awesome !

with Mark Owens, Pete Dicko
jkarran 30/Jul/11 Lead dnf

All the moves, short links.

with Smith
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Lead dog
jkarran 05/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Poor midgy session. No progress.

with Grant
steepstuff 02/Jul/11 -
with Rob
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead RP
jkarran 28/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Might just be doable if a rest can be found and an efficient sequence developed for the mid section. Worth another look anyway. Brilliant climbing in an amazing situation.

with Smith, Grant
andyb12354 14/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead RP
westyb3 24/Apr/11 Lead RP

Dropped the top on the onsight. Gutted!! got it 2nd go. Great route

with Heather Ogston
Hidden 16/Apr/11 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
jfreeman 04/Sep/10 Lead RP

First go today after putting the clips in, having tried it a year ago. Soft 7c.

Adam Lincoln 09/Jul/10 Lead
with Arran Deakin
nickmoulden 24/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Tim
NDD 11/Jun/10 Lead

Great route. 2nd go

Grit Wraith ?/Jun/10 Lead
Jon Garside ?/Jun/10 Lead RP
steve_biczyk 23/May/10 Lead RP

3rd go, first hard route in ages

with Huw, Marc
marcpontin ?/May/10 TR dog
with martin
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead RP
JM ??/2010 -
Hidden 25/Aug/09 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead RP
Sam the Butcher 09/Jul/09 Lead RP

2nd go

with Neil McGeechie
Sam the Butcher 09/Jul/09 Lead

2nd go

with Neil McGeechie
buzby78 09/Jul/09 Lead RP

2nd go after an epic seige 10 years ago.

with Bomber Harris
bigie bob 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
lx 28/Jun/09 Lead β

One of the best routes of this grade in the country. Dave if you're reading this you need to get on it. You'd definately do it in a day.

with Neil Mawson
Toby Dunn 19/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Kev Avery
Hidden 05/Aug/08 -
Hidden 05/Aug/08 -
Ram MkiV 01/Aug/08 Lead RP
with al & andy
andy gravestock 01/Aug/08 Lead RP

sweet route done on first redpoint probabley the best route iv done at kilnsey.

with steve
Hidden 29/Jul/08 -
Hidden 29/Jul/08 -
Hidden 29/Jul/08 -
Hidden 24/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Jun/08 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Jun/08 -
Hidden 17/Jun/08 -
Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/08 2nd dog
Rich Kirby 05/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Eddie
andy farnell 13/Apr/07 Lead RP

Stunning line, stunning climb. Nearly blew it by the clip below the final overhang but recovered to blast to the belay. Anyone climbing 7c in the UK should do this route. Probably the best of it's grade I've done

with Gareth Scott
Hidden 30/Jun/06 Lead RP
Boy ??/2006 -
mgeek ??/2006 Lead RP
with Tom Bolger
Cassidy 05/Sep/03 Lead RP
with Scottish Raiding Party
Henners 01/Sep/03 Lead RP
with Alan Cassidy
shark ??/2003 Lead RP
with Chris Sowden
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/Aug/02 Lead RP

3rd go

kristian ??/2002 Lead O/S
marky 30/May/98 Lead RP

With Phil Rigby

Mike Owen 20/Jul/97 Lead rpt
with Sven
sadams 06/May/96 Lead RP

2 days

dominic lee ?/Jul/95 Lead RP
with daniel lee
robyn1 ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 Lead O/S
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 2nd
Steve Crowe 13/Aug/94 Lead RP
with John Earl
CBA ??/1994 -
WuDavid ??/1994 -
Hidden 11/Jul/93 Lead
keefe 02/Aug/92 -
Hidden 02/Aug/92 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Jul/92 Lead dog
Mike Owen 22/Jul/92 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 19/Jul/92 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 30/Jun/91 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/90 -
Mike Owen 08/Jul/89 Lead RP
with Al Murray
Hidden ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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