Rockfax Description
A short but worthwhile excursion up the wall between the two overlaps to a lower-off in a shallow, square-cut niche. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Burnell 1994

np134 12/Sep Lead O/S
with L. Ward
datoon 10/Sep Lead rpt
khawk 20/Aug Lead RP
with DT
Hidden 12/Aug Lead RP
khawk 19/Jul Lead dog
with DT
datoon 19/Jul Lead β
with K
PeteH 09/Jul Lead RP
Luke Dawson 06/Jul Lead O/S
manfred 02/Jul Lead RP

Skip the last bolt!

drcorbasisgod 24/Jun Lead RP
with Marc Weisner
Ramon Marin 19/Jun Lead RP
with viki harvey
Hidden 13/Jun Lead RP
sheppy 12/Jun Lead dog

Draws were in so had a shot at end of day. Good technical climbing with plenty of options.

with Iain MacD
Hidden ?/Jun Lead RP
TRFrost 31/May Lead β
with W. Kelsall
wintermute 17/May Lead RP
with Jon
Hidden 23/Apr Lead β
Hidden 23/Apr Lead RP
khawk ??/2015 Lead RP
with DT
jamesdyno 10/Sep/14 Lead RP
morganator 05/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Tom Bridgeland
nathanlee 25/Aug/14 Lead RP

Maybe did this last year but cant remember and didn't log it. twice whilst trying dead calm.

marky 17/Aug/14 Lead β

3RP attempts on Over The Thumb

with keefe
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead
Ian Ash 14/Aug/14 Lead RP
Squidinker 09/Aug/14 Lead β
Hidden 05/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/14 Lead dog
BillyRidal 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
najki_2000 31/Jul/14 TR dog

Got the moves but all together seems very hard atm. If this was my local crag ..

mhairi thorburn 29/Jul/14 Lead RP

3rd go

with Jules
Leon Laubscher 24/Jul/14 Lead β
henry peter jenkins 17/Jul/14 Lead β
with andy tappa, luis bachini, emilio bachini
marky 13/Jul/14 Lead RP

Worked Over The Thumb

with Sharon
innes 22/Jun/14 Lead β
with Nathan
chris_j_s 22/Jun/14 Lead dog

Top roped it clean after a short play to warm up. Only had time for one redpoint go but pinged off at the last bolt. Pleasing after minimal climbing time recently.

with James McCartan
rikbattye 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Adam Lincoln 15/Jun/14 Lead
with Pete Chadwick
jamesgodwin64 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

After 4 goes this time around felt lots more at home with it, though the start of the crux is the point where I need to have more energy in the tank to link it all.

with John Copper
Ethan 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Sam W
jamesgodwin64 07/Jun/14 Lead dog

Brutal and bouldery but really good. Gotta keep an eye out for the feet, they are your best friend!

with John Copper
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead
buzby78 30/May/14 Lead
with Jess
david morse 21/May/14 Lead RP

3rd redpoint. Powerful top out!

with chris todd
julesp 18/May/14 Lead rpt

Crux still feels tough! Needs to feel a lot easier for any of the extensions!

with Iain
Hidden 03/May/14 -
Hidden 03/May/14 -
Chris_barr 03/May/14 Lead RP
WB 21/Apr/14 Lead RP

Surprisingly good route

with Martin
marky 29/Sep/13 Lead RP

Worked the excellent Over the Thumb

with Sharon
Hidden 30/Aug/13 Lead RP
Sankey 09/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Luke
Sankey 04/Aug/13 2nd dog
with Luke
Ian Broome 11/Jul/13 Lead RP

Tricky, good climbing.

with Mark
emily_allen 07/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead RP
jesse rees ?/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead dog
julesp 29/Jun/13 Lead rpt

got a better sequence for the crux but still pumpy

with iain jo and alex
thebigfriendlymoose 27/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Andy F
markalmack 25/Jun/13 Lead RP

Got eaten alive by midges. Savage

with J freeman, Nicolas Duboust
mark20 23/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Jun/13 Lead β
Rachel Somerville 16/Jun/13 Lead RP

6th session on it, finally got there.

with James
Nik Jennings 11/Jun/13 Lead
with Rachel
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead RP
adamjeffs 09/Jun/13 Lead β
Mat Welsh ?/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Dave Pinno, John Maskell, Emily J, Pete Dicko
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead dog
Bennykr 30/Apr/13 Lead RP

Tried years ago, bolt to bolt to put clips in then sent next go.

with Adam H
C coldwell-storry 28/Apr/13 Lead β
bigie bob ??/2013 Lead O/S
ejected ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
samrad 05/Sep/12 Lead β
with Bennykr, crad
GuyVG 12/Aug/12 Lead RP

1st RP today, 3 failed RPs on thursday due to general crapness. first 7b

with Jo and James
Ewan Russell 14/Jun/12 Lead RP
jacobjacob 14/Jun/12 Lead β


JM 07/Jun/12 Lead β
with Ako
thebigfriendlymoose 05/Jun/12 Lead RP
with Duncan
uptown 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Sean_J
Sean_J 04/Jun/12 Lead RP
with Andy
Hidden 01/Jun/12 Lead β
Dave Warburton 30/May/12 Lead RP

1RP. Felt flashable,but poor(warm/humid) conditions and I didn't quite get sidepull up at the last bolt quite right on flash. Skipped last bolt, lots of really good holds.

Hidden 30/May/12 Lead dog
nick bamber 27/May/12 Lead RP
with mike entwistle
akhughes 24/May/12 Lead RP
derico 24/May/12 Lead RP

Close to flash, but came off last few hard moves at top. 2nd go. 7b

with John Freeman
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stuart S 05/Sep/11 TR dog

Felt hard - couldn't figure out the move up to the last bolt

Hidden 05/Sep/11 TR dog
Glenn Sutcliffe 09/Aug/11 Lead RP

Blew the o/s, trying to clip last bolt. Missed it out on rp next go

with keefe
ksjs 31/Jul/11 Lead RP

Where did those jugs come from? Blew the retro flash at top, messed up feet next go, done 3rd go; really good climbing.

with owen
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead dog
Jon Garside 10/Jul/11 Lead β
highrepute 29/Jun/11 Lead RP

2nd go

Hidden 28/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 28/May/11 Lead RP
Greg Boswell 26/May/11 Lead RP

Don't know how many times i did this route this week, as I was trying the extension "Dead Calm"

Ally Baba 26/May/11 Lead RP
with Greg Boswell
jfreeman 22/May/11 Lead β
with Chris Gore, Dave Nicholl
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead β
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead β
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead β
Richard Hall 29/Apr/11 Lead RP

Close to flash, ended up being 3rd go. Easy 7b+?

with Rupert Cross, Chris Savage
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 -
blaza1 ??/2011 Lead RP
Stewart B 02/Sep/10 Lead RP
with Nick Deboost, Dave Redpath
jkarran 09/Aug/10 Lead RP

First RP of the day after dogging to warm up and put the clips in. Really nice technical climbing.

with Grant
jkarran 02/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Not sure what more I need to do, can link it in two almost full height sections but can't seem to string it together. Ending up exhausted rather than pumped.

with Grant
Toby Dunn 02/Aug/10 Lead β
with Andy Reeve
tom rookes ?/Aug/10 Lead
RD ?/Aug/10 Lead
julesp 29/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Iain
jkarran 26/Jul/10 Lead dog

Close but too tired, need to be feeling fresh.

with Grant
jkarran 25/Jul/10 Lead dog

Good progress. Felt very hard to begin with but gradually all came together. To tired for a decent RP attempt in the end.

with Aly
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead RP
Alex Mason 10/Jul/10 Lead RP

Fell off the very, very last move on flash (would have flashed had i known about the crimp up right, parallel to finishing flake) went second go. Also fell off at the last draw twice on 'the bulge'.

with Billy Laurence, GuyVG
keefe 07/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Barbara
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead β
nickmoulden 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S

putting in clips

with Ako
NDD 21/Jun/10 Lead β
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Aug/09 TR dnf
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Lead RP
Bennykr 15/Aug/09 Lead dog
with Jonny
uptown 13/Aug/09 Lead β
with Toby Dunn
Hidden 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Dan 85 10/Jul/09 Lead RP
with Alex & Matt
Matt Fry 09/Jul/09 Lead β

Certainly not the best sequence at the top - made a crazy cross over to the juggy flake with my right hand, left foot on an invisible smear! first F7b(+!!) flash!

with Dan Woolnough
Hidden 08/Jul/09 Lead RP
mattyork2 03/Jul/09 Lead dog

7 redpoints over two days yet to no avail. Leanrt a fair bit about this dark art however so it was not all in vain. Need to get a wee bit stonger and keep that power burning all the way to the chains. Remembering sequences is a another weakness identified.

Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
robbo 18/Jun/09 Lead RP

Third session lucky. After falling off on six redpoints previous session, it went first rp this one. There appear to be two ways of doing this route, the easy way (right into big jugs 2 thirds up, then back left) or the hard way, straight up. I did it the hard way.

marky 14/Jun/09 Lead RP

Worked Dead Calm extension

with Sharon
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
robbo ?/Apr/09 Lead RP

After 3 sessions, did the hard way. Absolutely awesome route. Get some stars on it. Funky climbing all the way

Hidden 21/Mar/09 TR dog
loonyclimber 05/Jul/08 TR dog

How hard is the crux.. no bloody feet! Will need a lot of practice to get clean on a lead!

andy farnell 09/Aug/07 Lead RP

Definately 7b+, not 7b.

with ksjs
ksjs 09/Aug/07 Lead dnf

knackered on this 4th go. much better (in fact very good) than the guidebook would suggest - good technical moves. demanding at 7b ie could be 7b+. think i could get this if fresh, one to go back for...

with andy
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead RP
Henners 11/Aug/06 Lead β
with Neil McGeek
Hidden 23/Jul/06 Lead RP
Cassidy 30/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Scottish Raiding Party
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead dnf
Dave Douglas ?/Aug/05 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Mike Owen 29/May/98 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Paul Figg 27/Aug/95 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove 01/Aug/95 TR
with Martin Berzins
Hidden 17/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S

Onsight but with some shouted beta from about half way from the first ascentionist!!! What You See is What You Get!

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
PeteWilson, Hidden, thebigfriendlymoose, is2, Bill Lawrence
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set