The Lord of the Dance*** E7 6c
100m, 4 pitches. A mammoth undertaking along the upper intermittent break. 1) 6a, 25m. Climb Bolt from the Blue to the peg under the roof at the top of the left-facing groove on its second pitch. Belay. 2) 6b, 25m. Traverse rightwards to Priapism and descend this until it is possible to access Central Wall at a spike. Climb up, right and then up again to the threads on Barracuda. Sustained climbing leads to a hanging-belay on Death Wish. 3) 6c, 20m. Move along to The Great White from which difficult climbing gains a good pocket - good wire in next pocket - difficult to place. Move down, then across and back up Blue Water, White Death. Continue to a belay on a peg and thread. 4) 6b, 30m. More traversing leads to the tree on Blue Afternoon. © ROCKFAX


FA. Pete Gomersall, Mick Lovatt 1987. First continuous ascent Ian Vickers, Gareth Parry 1995
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