New Dawn*** 7c
[The best sport climb in the UK?, 3 kb]22m.

Rockfax Description
One of the classic sport routes of Britain. A brilliant climb with an infamous tough start and a strength-sapping middle section to pass some stubborn bulges. Getting a well-informed local to tell you where to put your feet helps on the start. © ROCKFAX

FA. Ron Fawcett 1984

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Classic UK F7s, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist.

Photo: The best sport climb in the UK? © Tyler
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 118 logbooks, and on 36 wishlists.

At last. Think i first tried this 2 or 3 years ago, and had never actually managed the starting move - until today. Boom.
WB - Lead RP - 21/May/15 with Mark

Warmed up on it, putting draws in. Pretty steady but the start is the thing of nightmares.
samwillo - Lead - 16/May/15 with Malham Crowd

Did all the moves, and some good sections. Potential project
robertmichaeladams - TR dog - 04/May/15 with Tim

11th tie in, 6th RP, 3rd session. Absolutely psyched to do this, I think I'm finally getting some route fitness, although still had to fight at the top.
JamesTurnbull97 - Lead RP - 04/May/15 with Nathan P, Will Buck

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Apr/15

So happy to have ticked this! Was blowing out my arse at the run out!!
cjd91 - Lead RP - 13/Apr/15 with MonkeyStu

Stu Lightford - Lead dog - 13/Apr/15 with cjd91

Tophe - Lead RP - 11/Apr/15 with Jerome

drysori - Lead dog - 21/Mar/15

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Feb/15

OERees - Lead dog - 02/Nov/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Oct/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Oct/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Oct/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Oct/14

2nd Session, 4th Redpoint. What a great route!
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead RP - 06/Sep/14 with Jon Garside

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead dog - 24/Aug/14 with Sam Underhill

rikbattye - Lead RP - 08/Aug/14

Ed Booth - Lead RP - 01/Aug/14 with Rob Ireson, Adam Booth

One RP attempt after a quick look at the moves bolt to bolt. Messed up the bottom bit so tried to do second bolt to the top - came unstuck on the big flatty and took the ride! Then seemed terminal fatigue had kicked in and had to go bolt to bolt at the top again. Didn't feel that hard but I need to be fitter next time!
Adam Booth - Lead dog - 01/Aug/14 with Rob Ierson, Ed Booth

w.pettet-smith - Aug/14

such a classic
nathanlee - Lead RP - 03/May/14 with Dom Lee

Nick Sillem - Lead RP - 30/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 2014

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead RP - 12/Oct/13 with Stephen

adamjeffs - Lead RP - 17/Sep/13 with mum

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Sep/13

1st RP, with a hangover from last night's celebrations. Happy days!
innes - Lead RP - 09/Aug/13 with Ruth

First 7c, so psyched. 2nd RP.
Bennykr - Lead RP - 04/Jul/13 with Andy tappa, Dan Green

Tried it once a year or so ago. first go 2day.
C coldwell-storry - Lead RP - 14/May/13

littleluke - TR dnf - 10/May/13

blaza1 - Lead dog - 04/May/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Mar/13

First F7c. Gazillionth redpoint, having used a terrible sequence for the boulder start for ages and ages before finally being shown the way last week.
PeteH - Lead RP - 14/Sep/12

Didnt get to the top. Chanced it but unfortuantely it had a big wet section on it. Another time.
Ed Booth - Lead dnf - 17/Jun/12 with Fennerz, Adam Booth

highrepute - Lead RP - 05/Jun/12

Dogged up to just below ledge and fell off into space. Just the one go today.
Dave Warburton - Lead dnf - 05/Jun/12 with Jacob, Luke Tilley

jfreeman - Lead RP - 17/May/12 with David Jones, David Pattinson

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/May/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/May/12

Hidden - AltLd dog - 07/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/12

khawk - Lead dog - 21/Aug/11 with DT

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Jul/11

fell off the start like a noob, got back on and onsighted to the top putting the clips in
nickmoulden - Lead RP - 21/Jun/11 with Dalvinda Dunning

brilliant route. one of the best i've ever done
everettchris8 - Lead - 16/Jun/11

Dave Parton - Lead - 14/Jun/11 with Adam Ellwood

climbed in good style, did not extend ledge bolt and clipped off crimp
nick bamber - Lead RP - 14/Apr/11

I just kept falling off... must get fitter!
jacobjacob - Lead RP - 03/Apr/11

marcpontin - TR dog - Apr/11 with huw

Apharri - Lead RP - Apr/11 with Marie Richards

bigie bob - Lead RP - 26/Mar/11

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Dave Parton - 2011

The living end. So impressed Ross flashed this.
Sam the Butcher - Lead RP - 08/Jul/10 with ross hunt

dj_brigham05 - Lead dog - 19/May/10 with Rich Clarke

First redpoint attempt, came off going through the last roof. Missed a massive jug out. after that just too tired to keep it together.
Ed Booth - Lead dog - 17/May/10 with Gus Hudgins

Jon Garside - Lead RP - Apr/10

Awesome. Best sport route ive done yet. Nasty start gives way to some amazing undercutty climbing. Superb.
Alex Mason - Lead RP - 23/Mar/10 with Drew, Mikey G

Hidden - Lead - 16/Oct/09

Tried it years ago then lead first try after puting the clips in. What does that count as - retro 1st redpoint? Awesome route either way!
JulesV - Lead RP - 22/Sep/09

Fell high on the flash then managed it first redpoint, best rout I've done at Malham
willackers - Lead RP - 18/May/09 with Tom Mills, Dan Walker

NDD - Lead - 17/May/09 with Stu, Will, Chris

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Apr/09

What an awesome route and I think the best I have ever done to date! I am afraid that I pulled off the big right hand undercut near the end of pumpy sequence just before the big flat sloper (Took a mega lob whilst doing this!).. still goes though and not much harder, just even more classic as no more loose holds!
derico - Lead RP - 12/Apr/09 with Strong Alex

Hidden - 2009

probably best 7c in UK
mgeek - Lead RP - Oct/08 with robi philips

Toby Dunn - Lead RP - 27/Sep/08 with bruno

Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/08

Gus - Lead RP - 08/Jul/08 with Rob Clifton

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Jul/08

lx - Lead - 03/Jul/08 with fat boy

2nd session, 2nd rp today. awesome.
Ram MkiV - Lead RP - 22/May/08 with Al

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/08

Hidden - TR rpt - 10/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/08

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead RP - Oct/07

Tony Little - Lead RP - 08/Sep/07 with Lucy Ellis

Paul Forster - 2007

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Aug/06

Boy - 2006

Cassidy - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/05 with Scottish Raiding Party

Henners - Lead RP - 01/Jul/05 with Alan Cassidy

Rich Kirby - Lead RP - 15/Jun/04 with Ant

nige - Lead RP - 04/Jul/03 with sam watts

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead RP - Jun/03

kristian - Lead O/S - 2002

buzby78 - Lead RP - 16/Oct/99 with Jeramaia

Last day at Malham before moving to France.
Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/99 with Elaine Owen

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 03/May/99 with Elaine Owen

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/99 with Elaine Owen

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 14/Mar/99 with Elaine Owen

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/98 with Elaine Owen

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 28/May/98 with Elaine Owen

Steve Crowe - Lead RP - 11/May/96

2 days
sadams - Lead RP - 21/Apr/96

andy farnell - Lead RP - 1995 with Aaron Tonks

Richard White - 1995

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Did with leo.
djmarko75 - Lead β - Sep/94

Absolutely no problems with any of the moves. just need the stamina.
Ian Jones - 2nd dog - 1994 with Joe Piccallilli

shark - Lead RP - 14/Aug/93

Hidden - Lead - 1993

jfletcher - Lead RP - 27/Aug/92 with Graham Baxter

Pedro50 - Lead RP - 20/Aug/92 with A. Belayer

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Aug/92

Never managed the lead but should have on this occasion
Paul Clarke - 2nd - 1992

Andy Hyslop - Mar/90

keefe - 1990

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1990 with keefe

RP same day as Main Overhang. great day...
mark mcgowan01 - 1989 with Colin Lambton

Mike Owen - Lead RP - 02/Oct/87 with Tim Lowe

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SMc, LouisJones, Ollie Hensman-Crook, Nick Sillem, Tommyads, richiebongo, coombsy, jonnybull, mhawk, DDDD, Jonathan Rhoderick, Smith42, JRae, owain86, thebigfriendlymoose, Dan Jenkin, clarky, Billg, richardh, robbo, selman

Total votes cast 100
hard 7c+0 of 50
7c+0 of 50
easy 7c+1 of 50
hard 7c35 of 50
7c13 of 50
easy 7c1 of 50
hard 7b+0 of 50
7b+0 of 50
easy 7b+0 of 50
3 Stars49 of 50
2 Stars1 of 50
1 Star0 of 50
0 Stars0 of 50
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP