UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

22m.

Rockfax Description
One of the classic sport routes of Britain. A brilliant climb with an infamous tough start and a strength-sapping middle section to pass some stubborn bulges. Getting a well-informed local to tell you where to put your feet helps on the start. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett 1984.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Classic UK F7s , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rock cats getting strong , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Pyramid to 8a+ , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Will Hunt 29 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: What's left of the undercut at the start of New Dawn has been reattached. Climbs the same as it did before.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What's left of the undercut at the start of New Dawn has been reattached. Climbs the same as it did before.
Andy Farnell 3 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Mega classic. THE 7c on UK limestone. Bouldery start, good rest and then pumpy all the way to the belay. One of the best sport climbs in the country. Period.
Show beta
βeta: Mega classic. THE 7c on UK limestone. Bouldery start, good rest and then pumpy all the way to the belay. One of the best sport climbs in the country. Period.

Logged Ascents

332 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 72
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sunset Brown

Grade: 7c ***
(Giggleswick North)

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