North Yorkshire > Malham Cove >
Zoolook*** 8a

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[Zoolook Crux Headwall, 4 kb]22m. A famous and magnificent climb which starts below the chunky flake. Gaining the flake is tricky but the sustained upper wall provides most of the difficulties. Thin moves on side-pulls with the nagging question as to whether you clip the bolt or push on and risk the mega-lob. There is an infamous rest at half-height. © ROCKFAX
FA. Ron Fawcett 1985. Malham's first 8a and also one of the first in the UK. A magnificent effort which has stood the test of time. "Nearly 8a+" Steve McClure - OTE 2003.

Ticklists: THE classic old skool 8a's.

Photo: Zoolook Crux Headwall © Rich Kirby
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 49 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Start of a new siege. Led clean from ground, past rest, to flake at start of crux section. 28/6/14 - 3rd session - leading through to "gripper clipper". 02/07/14 - 4th session - like 3rd but worse - the joys of a project. 03/07/14 - 5th session - like 4th... tweaked beta, crux sequence improved but oddly the send feels even further away (a horrible moment of clarity, I normally strive to avoid too much reality).
thebigfriendlymoose - Lead dog - 03/Aug/14 with Stephen

adamjeffs - Lead RP - 09/Jun/14 with mum

Great route
piken - Lead RP - 01/Oct/13 with Al

mikenty - Lead RP - 19/Apr/13 with Nicolas Duboust

Less of a epic than usual.
Nicolas Duboust - Lead RP - 08/Sep/12

couldnt resist a play on the bottom boulder prob. really nice moves but too hard for me. need to work heel hooks for a start
julesp - TR dnf - 14/Jul/12 with nigel and eliot

First proper redpoint after a few working goes. So psyched to get this done today, especially as the last two holds of the crux and the whole upper wall were sopping wet.
jacobjacob - Lead RP - 14/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Nov/11

Toby Dunn - Lead RP - 24/Aug/11 with Ruth

Horrible midge fest of a day.
edinbed - Lead RP - 20/Jul/11

first redpoint
nickmoulden - Lead RP - 16/Jun/11 with Dalvinda Dunning

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Jun/11

Apharri - Lead RP - 01/May/11 with Andre Hedger

bigie bob - Lead RP - 15/Apr/11

Get in! Early morning race against the sun! Wet top-out! Sketchy!
willackers - Lead RP - 09/Apr/11 with lots of scottish people

Apharri - Lead RP - Apr/11 with Marie Richards

Ally Smith - Lead RP - 19/Mar/11

andyinnes - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/May/09

Ally Smith - TR dog - 10/Apr/09

Fell from last hard move to flake; New sequence look promising!
Ally Smith - Lead dog - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Jul/08

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead RP - 28/Jun/08 with Aide Jebb

Hidden - TR rpt - 18/Jun/08

amazing. Best route i have ever done. Hard, feels like a step up from other 8a's i've done.
lx - Lead - 12/Jun/08 with jonny

Hidden - Lead RP - 18/May/08

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/08

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Apr/07

Cassidy - Lead RP - 30/Jul/05 with Henners

marky - Lead RP - Apr/05 with John

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Sep/04

nige - Lead RP - 09/May/04 with dave kells

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - Lead RP - 2003

Hidden - Lead RP - 2003

Hidden - Lead RP - 2003

4 days over two years
sadams - Lead RP - 04/May/97 with John Boyle

shark - Lead RP - 01/Oct/94 with Dave Marsh

Tried this with Leo.
djmarko75 - Lead dnf - Sep/94

Skipped the bolt and took the huge lob on RP attempt the day before success (and all bolts clipped!)
jfletcher - Lead RP - 20/Jun/93 with Glen Sutcliffe

keefe - 23/Aug/92

Flashed to high on route. Alas I didn't make it.
Dave Douglas - Lead dog - 23/Mar/91 with Stuart Cameron

1st 8a - pumpy!
mark mcgowan01 - 1990 with Dave Cuthbertson

My 1st 8a.. I think
Glenn Sutcliffe - Lead RP - 1990 with keefe

Mike Owen - Lead RP - 24/Sep/89 with Elaine Owen, Phil Ralph

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chrisclimber, Nick Sillem, thebigfriendlymoose, Hidden, Hidden, Carter, Hidden, Boy, Hidden, JimPope, bustermartin, Quiddity, Hidden, andy farnell, Hidden, Ezy Ryder, Hidden, derico, Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 56
hard 8a+0 of 31
8a+0 of 31
easy 8a+4 of 31
hard 8a18 of 31
8a8 of 31
easy 8a1 of 31
hard 7c+0 of 31
7c+0 of 31
easy 7c+0 of 31
3 Stars25 of 25
2 Stars0 of 25
1 Star0 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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Style of ascent

Lead43 of 49 (87.8%)
Toproped3 of 49 (6.1%)
Unknown3 of 49 (6.1%)

'Climbed'4 of 49 (8.2%)
clean O/S1 of 49 (2.0%)
clean rpt3 of 49 (6.1%)
clean RP32 of 49 (65.3%)
dogged7 of 49 (14.3%)
dnf2 of 49 (4.1%)