22m.

Rockfax Description
Malham's first 8a. A famous and magnificent climb which starts below a chunky flake. Gaining the flake is tricky, however the sustained upper wall provides most of the difficulties with fingery moves on side-pulls, with always the nagging question as to whether to clip the crucial bolt or push on and risk the mega-lob. There is an infamous rest at half-height. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett 1985. Malham's first 8a and also one of the first in the UK. A magnificent effort which has stood the test of time. "Nearly 8a+" Steve McClure - OTE 2003.

Ticklists: THE classic old skool 8a's, Yorkshire Limestone Graded List, 2016 Crush-fest.


ClimberDateStyle
nathanlee 25/May Lead dog

Shoulda woulda coulda, fell off the crux sequence in various spots four times. Pulled on and led to the top steadily each go. Next time

with Will Pettet-Smith
np134 18/May Lead RP
JamesTurnbull97 30/Apr Lead RP

4th go, 3rd on the day, 1st RP. Didn't really expect it, just had a go to how far I'd get which turned out to be the top. Almost fell off going to the flake after the trav which would have been exciting with the skipped draw.

JM 24/Apr Lead rpt

Got set up for the final throw on the crux of Well Dunne Finish but didn't commit fully as the position of the last draw wraps the rope around your ankle. Changed the beta to take slopey crimp with my right hand and throw to the shelf with my left hand - much less reach dependent.

with Anna Reiners
JM 24/Apr Lead rpt

Got slopey crimp on Well Dunne Finish but my foot came off the foothold trying to get the rope off my ankle. Found the foothold eventually but couldn't make the throw to the shelf.

with Anna Reiners
JM 23/Apr Lead rpt

Got the side pull on the Well Dunne Finish crux but was too pumped to move.

with Anna Reiners
JM 22/Apr Lead RP
with Anna Reiners
OERees 04/Nov/15 Lead dog

Wet.

OERees 28/Oct/15 Lead dog
OERees 21/Oct/15 Lead dog
thebigfriendlymoose 17/Oct/15 Lead RP

It ends: a siege so prolonged, bloody, and idiotic it resembled Stalingrad re-enacted by the knights out of Monty Python and the Holy Grail . A surprise late season tick after a long break. Absence makes the heart grow fonder and the fingers grow stronger!

OERees 17/Oct/15 Lead dog
OERees 14/Oct/15 Lead dog
Luke Dawson 13/Oct/15 Lead RP

felt like an 8a+

adamjeffs 09/Jun/14 Lead RP
with mum
piken 01/Oct/13 Lead RP

Great route

with Al
mikenty 19/Apr/13 Lead RP
NDD 08/Sep/12 Lead RP

Less of a epic than usual.

julesp 14/Jul/12 TR dnf

couldnt resist a play on the bottom boulder prob. really nice moves but too hard for me. need to work heel hooks for a start

with nigel and eliot
jacobjacob 14/Mar/12 Lead RP

First proper redpoint after a few working goes. So psyched to get this done today, especially as the last two holds of the crux and the whole upper wall were sopping wet.

Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 24/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Ruth
edinbed 20/Jul/11 Lead RP

Horrible midge fest of a day.

nickmoulden 16/Jun/11 Lead RP

first redpoint

with Dalvinda Dunning
Hidden 13/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Jun/11 Lead dog
Apharri 01/May/11 Lead RP
with Andre Hedger
bigie bob 15/Apr/11 Lead RP
willackers 09/Apr/11 Lead RP

Get in! Early morning race against the sun! Wet top-out! Sketchy!

with lots of scottish people
Apharri ?/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Marie Richards
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
andyinnes 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Apr/09 TR dog
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Jul/08 Lead rpt
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 28/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Aide Jebb
Hidden 18/Jun/08 TR rpt
lx 12/Jun/08 Lead

amazing. Best route i have ever done. Hard, feels like a step up from other 8a's i've done.

with jonny
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Apr/08 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Apr/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun/07 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead RP
Cassidy 30/Jul/05 Lead RP
with Henners
marky ?/Apr/05 Lead RP
with John
Rich Kirby 23/Sep/04 Lead RP

First 8a & in my 40th year.....ace.

with Ant
nige 09/May/04 Lead RP
with dave kells
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2003 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2003 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2003 Lead RP
Mike Owen 03/May/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 25/Apr/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 24/Apr/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28/Mar/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 06/Sep/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 19/Jul/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 31/May/98 Lead rpt
with Ewan McCallum
Mike Owen 25/May/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28/Mar/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 04/Oct/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 27/Sep/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 09/Jul/97 Lead rpt
with Nige Hunt
sadams 04/May/97 Lead RP

4 days over two years

with John Boyle
Mike Owen 12/Apr/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 15/Mar/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 12/Oct/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28/Sep/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22/Sep/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 07/Jul/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 31/May/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 28/Apr/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 21/Apr/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 15/Oct/95 Lead rpt
with John Holmes, Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/Oct/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 30/Sep/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 24/Sep/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 23/Jul/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22/Jul/95 Lead rpt
with Lisa Gnade, Steve Petro, Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 15/Jul/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 24/Jun/95 Lead rpt

Led four times whilst practising the Well Dunne finish.

with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22/Jun/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 17/Jun/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 11/Jun/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 21/May/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 26/Feb/95 Lead rpt
with Tim Hatch
ukb shark 01/Oct/94 Lead RP
with Dave Marsh
Mike Owen 27/Sep/94 Lead rpt
with Perry & Sue
Mike Owen 02/Sep/94 Lead rpt
with Nige Preston, Elaine Owen
djmarko75 ?/Sep/94 Lead dnf

Tried this with Leo.

Mike Owen 05/Jun/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 27/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 26/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 04/Sep/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 27/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 04/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 18/Jul/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
jfletcher 20/Jun/93 Lead RP

Skipped the bolt and took the huge lob on RP attempt the day before success (and all bolts clipped!)

with Glen Sutcliffe
WuDavid ??/1993 Lead RP

Wow! So chuffed to do this classic. Recall spying the line before it was climbed. Never dreamed I'd climb this piece of rock.

keefe 23/Aug/92 -
Dave Douglas 23/Mar/91 Lead dog

Flashed to high on route. Alas I didn't make it.

with Stuart Cameron
Mike Owen 04/Apr/90 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
mark mcgowan01 ??/1990 -

1st 8a - pumpy!

with Dave Cuthbertson
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1990 Lead RP

My 1st 8a.. I think

with keefe
Mike Owen 24/Sep/89 Lead RP
with Elaine Owen, Phil Ralph
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set