UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

12m.

Rockfax Description
A good route up the concave wall past a detached undercut and a tufa finish. Low in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Burnell and others 1986.

Ticklists

Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , York University Students path to greatness , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Cooke 6 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A great route that starts gently before kicking into a buuurly crux, just sneaks into the 7a bracket.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route that starts gently before kicking into a buuurly crux, just sneaks into the 7a bracket.
Laurie Rogerson 6 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My first 7a - enjoyable route but kicking myself that I didn't onsight it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first 7a - enjoyable route but kicking myself that I didn't onsight it.
Andy Farnell 1 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Better after the retro bolting. A nice warm-up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Better after the retro bolting. A nice warm-up.
Daimon - Rockfax 16 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The addition of Bolts now makes this route a lot nice to climb. Reachy if your small.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The addition of Bolts now makes this route a lot nice to climb. Reachy if your small.

Logged Ascents

1244 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 140
Votes cast 134
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Thermal Equilibrium

Grade: 7a ***
(Thorny Bank Hill Quarry)

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