Rockfax Description
One of Yorkshire's most coveted sport climbs. Sustained climbing leads to a taxing finish. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Lewis 1984. The infamous run-out at the top has undergone several changes in its life. Currently it is a good bit less scary than it has been but it is still enough to get you thinking.

Ticklists: Classic UK F7s, World Graded List.

OERees 06/Oct Lead RP
Hidden 04/Oct Lead RP
penny.orr 27/May Lead dog

Bottom section moves still feel hard but have worked out the rest of the moves.

derico 24/May Lead RP

Amazing route, forgot how good the routes are at malham!

with Chris Davis
jonleighton 24/May Lead RP
Hidden 24/May Lead RP
Ian Broome 10/May Lead RP

Great stuff. Taken so long to get around to getting on it,

with petellis, Mike
Hidden 04/May Lead dog
Duncan Campbell 04/May Lead RP

Woohoo! 3rd RP today, my second session on the route. Went down thanks to some beta from guy making the middle section more efficient. Really didn't expect to do this as it felt so hard! My hardest sport route to date.

Hidden 04/May Lead RP
GuyVG 04/May Lead dog

a strange day

with Laura
Hidden 04/May 2nd
Hidden 04/May 2nd dnf
Matt Cooke 03/May Lead RP
with Sam Taylor
khawk 02/May Lead RP
Duncan Campbell 02/May Lead dog

Hard. Being hungover didn't help but this is a big step up from any other 7b+ I've been on and is much harder than space race. Back tomorrow/Monday to try and send

Hidden ?/May TR dnf
datoon 11/Apr Lead RP
Tophe 25/Mar Lead RP
with Ben D
samwillo 17/Mar Lead

Finally went down, getting back to a) routes and b) Malham is hard!

JamesTurnbull97 07/Mar Lead RP

First time climbing and first ever route at Malham, Really good route, great position and techy climbing. Psyched to sent 3rd go.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 21/Feb Lead

Tried it years ago, felt desperate. Today it still felt desperate, but seemed to go down a lot, lot quicker.

with Mina Leslie Wujastyk
bigie bob 17/Feb Lead RP
nickmoulden 27/Jan Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
Hidden 23/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Nov/14 Lead RP
oread 26/Oct/14 Lead RP

4th session, ticked go after falling at the chains!

drysori 22/Aug/14 Lead RP
Nick Sillem 13/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Apr/14 -
Hidden 19/Apr/14 TR dog
Hidden 19/Apr/14 TR dog
Jacob Bloodworth ?/Apr/14 Lead RP

Worked this a a few years ago. 2nd go when I came back to do it.

GuyVG 23/Mar/14 Lead dog

Hard work in the sun, sequence acquired.

with Shrewbert
Hidden 28/Sep/13 TR dog
piken 22/Sep/13 Lead RP

first done 2005

with Andy
Julian Cooper 02/Sep/13 Lead dog

Day 2 on my 7b+ project. Got the first finger lock move sorted and Ben showed me a neat finish. Just all the moves in between to go!

with Ben Steel
Hidden 14/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead
robertmichaeladams 12/May/13 TR dog


with Andy H
a_hein 12/May/13 Lead RP

Cold and fingery but good

w.pettet-smith ?/Apr/13 Lead RP

second day of climbing at malham, nice to get off the warm ups.brilliant day out, beers on the terrace shouting my pals on safe in the knowledge I wont have to tie in again!

with ben and jonny
Hidden 13/Mar/13 Lead RP
nickmoulden 10/Jan/13 Lead RP
WB 02/Sep/12 Lead RP
with Chris
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead RP
chris_j_s 20/Jul/12 Lead dog

Excited just to get on this - amazing!

with Will Carroll
thebigfriendlymoose 14/Jul/12 Lead RP

1st lead try after 2-3 toprope goes.

with Martin Fisher
efrance24234 30/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Just that one last move i cant do

Ed Booth 17/Jun/12 Lead RP

faile flash go so dogged it and tried moves then led next go.

fennerz 17/Jun/12 Lead RP

1st RP.

with Ed and Adam
Joe Innes 08/Jun/12 Lead dog
Graham Iles 28/Apr/12 TR dog
with Nick Wharton
Hidden 27/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Apr/12 Lead RP
zero six ?/Apr/12 Lead RP

Felt like two different routes - tried in the sun and it felt totally nails, came back a couple weeks later on a cloudy day and sent 1st redders and felt pretty straightforward.

drysori 11/Mar/12 Lead dog

In 2 overlapping halves, much better than I expected. Hopefully will go down next visit.

Hidden 09/Mar/12 TR dnf
drysori 26/Feb/12 TR dog

Got all the moves. Brilliant route, will be back soon.

with Dunc
Hidden ??/2012 TR dnf
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead RP
jfreeman 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Nicholl
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
Stefan Kruger 20/Aug/11 Lead RP

Awesome, hard route. Great finish to a great week in the dales.

uptown 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sean_J
Rob1988 25/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Cal
chiverstom 11/Jun/11 Lead dnf
sammo247 11/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead RP
highrepute 05/Apr/11 Lead RP
khawk 19/Mar/11 Lead dog
with DT
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead dnf
jacobjacob 02/Mar/11 Lead RP

After a truly appalling onsight attempt, sorted my life out and got it second go. Great route!

Hidden ?/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 29/Jan/11 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
escalade ??/2011 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2011 Lead
ian caton 12/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Abi
willackers 11/Apr/10 Lead RP

Failed to Flash it. Lowered from 3rd bolt then did it next go. Flashed the top. Nice

with Malc and Henners
NDD 21/Mar/10 Lead RP

Quite tricky. Pretty pleased to get after not been back climbing for long.

Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
nathanmanc 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
jondude 28/May/09 -
Hidden 28/Mar/09 Lead β
Hidden 24/Feb/09 TR O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/09 TR O/S
C coldwell-storry ??/2009 Lead RP
with Mike Thomas
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 11/Dec/08 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Oct/08 -
Hidden 22/Aug/08 Lead dog
Ram MkiV 10/Aug/08 Lead RP

first tried over 2 years ago. Almost as hard and painful as I'd remembered it. Very good and satisfying none the less. 1st redpoint today.

with G-stock
andy gravestock 10/Aug/08 Lead RP

The first route that i have done on the upper tier, Although the climbing is tough a painfull on the skin i can deffinatly see myself doing more up there, as the climbing is supperb. (obsession great route done 1st redpoint today).

with steve
Greg Boswell 08/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Robbie Phillips
Dave Bond 19/May/08 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/08 -
Hidden 03/Apr/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Mar/08 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Feb/08 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 27/Nov/07 TR rpt
Hidden 15/Nov/07 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Oct/07 -
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead RP
Tony Little 19/Aug/06 Lead RP
with Darren
Hidden 06/Aug/06 Lead RP
andy farnell 25/Jun/06 Lead RP

Did for the first time years and years ago, had a quick top-rope then did it 1st RP. Fantastic route, benchmark 7b+

with Ian Patterson
Henners 01/Feb/06 Lead RP
with Neil Buzby
Boy ??/2006 -
Toby Dunn ??/2006 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
marky ??/2005 Lead RP
Cassidy 15/Aug/04 Lead RP
with Henners
marric ?/Aug/04 Lead RP
with M. Williams (now Richards)
Mike Owen 12/Jun/04 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2003 Lead RP
Rich Kirby ?/Sep/02 Lead RP
with Ant
nige ?/Mar/02 Lead RP
with mark hounslea
sadams 08/Apr/00 Lead O/S
with Kathryn & Nic
Mike Owen 04/Jul/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 20/Jun/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 05/May/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 03/May/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/May/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 25/Apr/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 24/Apr/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 14/Mar/99 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
innes ??/1999 Lead RP
Hidden 31/May/98 Lead RP
Mike Owen 14/Mar/98 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
andy farnell ??/1998 -
craig matheson ??/1998 Lead RP
Mike Owen 11/Oct/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 29/Jun/97 Lead rpt
with Nige Hunt, Elaine Owen
buzby78 10/May/97 Lead RP


with Boab
Mike Owen 08/Mar/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
switch ??/1997 Lead RP
dominic lee ?/Oct/96 Lead O/S

Freezing cold wooden hands!

with daniel lee
Hidden 24/Aug/96 Lead β
goi.ashmore 13/Jul/96 Lead RP
with Matt Hirst
Mike Owen 22/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 25/May/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
whispering nic ?/May/96 Lead dog
Mike Owen 28/Apr/96 Lead rpt

Led twice at the end of the day.

with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 21/Apr/96 Lead rpt

Led twice at the end of the day.

with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 20/Apr/96 Lead rpt

Led twice.

with Elaine Owen
Dave Musgrove 06/Apr/96 2nd dog

Hmmm! Hard, but I managed all the moves, maybe one day?

with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/Apr/96 Lead RP

Excellent. 3rd go

with Dad
robyn1 ??/1996 -
Mike Owen 01/Oct/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 23/Jul/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 22/Jun/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 07/May/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 29/Apr/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Billg 14/Apr/95 Lead RP
with Andy Swan
Mike Owen 02/Apr/95 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 25/Mar/95 Lead rpt
with Andy Mitchell
Mike Owen 15/Oct/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
CBA ?/Jun/94 -
Mike Owen 27/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 26/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/May/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/Sep/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 27/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 04/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 01/Aug/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 18/Jul/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 20/Jun/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 15/Jun/93 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Steve Crowe 25/Apr/93 Lead RP

1st RP

with KM
WuDavid ??/1993 Lead β

Surprised myself with a flash (with Beta tho) of this classic. Now sadly spoilt by having an extra bolt in the runout. Needs chopping an returning to its original fluttery state.

Mike Owen 11/Oct/92 -
with Dougie Hall
Mike Owen 04/Oct/92 Lead rpt
with Tim Hatch
jfletcher 23/Aug/92 Lead RP
shark 10/Aug/92 Lead RP
Mike Owen 30/May/92 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 12/Apr/92 Lead rpt
with Steve Roberts
Mike Owen 23/Jun/91 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 24/Mar/91 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 13/Oct/90 Lead rpt
with Andy Moss
Dave Douglas 11/Sep/90 Lead RP
Dave Douglas 11/Sep/90 Lead RP
Mike Owen 01/Apr/90 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Andy Hyslop ?/Mar/90 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1990 -
with keefe
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
keefe ??/1990 -
mark mcgowan01 ??/1989 -
keefe 31/Jul/88 Lead RP
Mike Owen 30/Sep/87 Lead RP
with Tim Lowe
stp 15/Aug/84 Lead

F.A inspired by a 7a that looked similar I'd done earlier in the year at La Loubiere. Took 3 days of effort and certainly harder than anything else I'd done at the time. But was also aware it was easier than other routes considered E6 - Main OH, Cave Route LH, Free n Easy, etc. So gave it E5/6. Some tight gits nicked the original belay soon after it was done. Must have aided Main OH and across for and old krab and old rope. The good old days. The start has since been shifted to the R and the original crux is avoided by climbing further L - though still hard. Antoine Le Menestrel and J.B Tribout both onsighted it in 85 and thought 7b but 7b+ seems fair to me.

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, will black, Stu Lightford, Hidden, davebowes, Mattlamb90, coombsy, Jay.Carr, Jonathan Rhoderick, cjd91, thebigfriendlymoose, Tom Keaveny, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, chris_j_s, ashknot, Hidden, Hidden, RBonney, apd, Hidden, middlevern, selman, derico, Hidden, Alex Mason, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set