UKC Logbook - 'Duck Dive'

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

Last update: 23/05/2023

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17m.

Rockfax Description
A near sport route (7a+). Follow the wall (wire) past pegs to a hard move for a bolt. Pass this then go right to a belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first peg has snapped (the bottom of the eye is missing) and a wire placement has gone too. Recommendations received not to treat this route as a sport route.

NOW FULLY BOLTED - see Duck Dive (Sport)

FA. Graham Desroy, Martin Berzins, Chris Sowden 1985.

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
teddy	30 May, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Nice route with unobvious step right above bolt. A bit dusty through lack of traffic. Pegs now dubious after 21 years of rusting away. Time for retroing? Would get more traffic then and give people more warmup options upstairs. There is only one wire on it at the start just like Sycophants which was retro'd a few years ago. Would be difficult to replace like with like due to them being hard to remove and the limited nature of the placements in the first place.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Nice route with unobvious step right above bolt. A bit dusty through lack of traffic. Pegs now dubious after 21 years of rusting away. Time for retroing? Would get more traffic then and give people more warmup options upstairs. There is only one wire on it at the start just like Sycophants which was retro'd a few years ago. Would be difficult to replace like with like due to them being hard to remove and the limited nature of the placements in the first place.