North Yorkshire > Gordale Scar >
 
Pierrepoint*** 7c+

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Pierrepoint original start >>
[never a crowd, always atmospheric, 3 kb]40m. A mind-blowing pitch taking in the full height of the wall right of the Cave Routes. The original start is right of Last Dog but it is now common, more pleasant and easier to start up Last Dog. From the lower-off of Last Dog climb up the wall with a couple of reachy moves before the small niche. Move right and up before trending left to a lower-off (7b+ to this point). Move up to the bulge and take the right-hand line of bolts to some wildly-positioned moves before the belay. Lower off in two stages if you don't have an 80m rope. Rope drag can be a problem. The best way of getting around this is to climb Last Dog on one rope, then discard it and continue on a second, or re-thread the Last Dog belay without weighting it. Pierrpoint Original Start, 7c - As far as the first lower-off. © ROCKFAX
FA. Martin Atkinson 1984

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Classic UK F7s.

Photo: never a crowd, always atmospheric © the clamp
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Pumped off the top previous evening. Felt great this morning, massive pitch!
nathanlee - Lead RP - 27/Jul/13 with Dom Lee

wonderful stuff.
dominic lee - Lead RP - 27/Jul/13 with nathan lee

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Sep/12

Did the 7b+ bit os, fell off the last move of the extension os!!
coula1 - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11

To the roof belay - 7B+. Pretty much on sight - saw Alan Steele RP it whilst belaying on warm up. Pleased, need to return for the top.
Rich Kirby - Lead β - 14/Jul/11 with Eddie

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Done many time before and since. Brilliant route. Still keen to try the original start.
Steve Crowe - Lead RP - 28/Jul/10 with KM

To the top this time. Ace route!
TomPR - Lead - 11/Jul/10

Only to the main overhang (7b+ ?) - a great reason to return to finish off properly!
TomPR - Lead - 30/Jun/10

First Pitch 7b+, then worked moves to lower off second pitch
marky65 - Lead - 30/Jun/10 with Tom

Hidden - 16/Jun/10

marcpontin - Lead dog - 2010 with huw

Kevin Avery - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/09 with Gareth

scraped, slapped and rested up to the 7b+/7c lower off but powered out towards the end of the roof. Hopefully complete the whole monster pitch next time!
Ram MkiV - Lead RP - 26/Jun/09 with al mace & sam hamer

2nd lower off 7b+.
Nicolas Duboust - 12/Jun/09 with Alan

Gus - Lead β - 21/Sep/08

Putting clips in
Kevin Avery - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/08 with Eddy

7b+ lower section only
Boy - 2007

Cassidy - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Rob Sutton

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Jul/06

keefe - Lead - 15/Jul/06 with Neil Foster

2nd lower off
mgeek - Lead RP - 2006 with ross hennigan

Henners - Lead RP - 01/Jul/05 with Neil McGeek

nige - Lead - 11/Jun/04 with pete chadwick

buzby78 - Lead RP - 17/Oct/00 with Geordie Mike

1st rp first pitch only
sadams - Lead RP - 16/Jun/96 with John Boyle

To be honest, didn't get very near this one! Made the first overhang OK but ran out of steam at the bottom of the crack
leathers - TR dnf - 1996

Mike Owen - 02/Aug/90 with Elaine Owen

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jonathan Rhoderick, thebigfriendlymoose, Rick hard Rock, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Mike Goldthorp, Quiddity, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 18
hard 8a0 of 8
8a0 of 8
easy 8a0 of 8
hard 7c+1 of 8
7c+1 of 8
easy 7c+6 of 8
hard 7c0 of 8
7c0 of 8
easy 7c0 of 8
3 Stars10 of 10
2 Stars0 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Lead24 of 31 (77.4%)
Toproped1 of 31 (3.2%)
Unknown6 of 31 (19.4%)

'Climbed'11 of 31 (35.5%)
clean O/S2 of 31 (6.5%)
clean β3 of 31 (9.7%)
clean rpt2 of 31 (6.5%)
clean RP11 of 31 (35.5%)
dogged1 of 31 (3.2%)
dnf1 of 31 (3.2%)