Rockfax Description
Climb the wall 3m left of the drystone wall to a thin break (missing peg?). Step right and climb to flakes that lead to a peg on the Brothers traverse. Move up to the upper break and peg above it and finish direct via a powerful pull. © Rockfax

FA. M.Atkinson 1981

Misha 13/Sep/14 Lead dnf

The peg at the start is gone, there is other gear available but it's pumpy to place, particularly as I ended up putting in three pieces as individually they weren't entirely convincing but between them they were ok. Got flash pumped doing that and had to downclimb to the ground for a shakeout. Went back up and the sequence wasn't too bad but still 6a I reckon. Easy past the flakes then a bit of run out 5a/b across the slab to the overhang. Had lots of goes at the move over roof and took a few falls (very safe) but just couldn't reach the key handhold. The sharp sidepull, high foot and knee combination seemed to work best but still nowhere near it. Gave up and traversed under the roof (quite hard for a bit) to where I thought the E2 goes through it. I tried going up to the right of the jammed wire, which was desperate - fell off twice, ripping the two micros I'd placed in the roof to protect the traverse. Then figured out the actual E2 line a few metres to the left of the peg and jammed wire, up to a jug off an undercut. That was fine at E2. Mike sensibly traversed lower down so had to ab for the gear at the roof. Bad route choice on my part! Seconded Mike up two HVSs and two E1s which were pleasant enough but on the whole I thought this crag was completely uninspiring - too short and largely not steep enough. No desire to come back here ever again! This was E3 6a in the 1980s guide, which was clearly a sandbag as it's certainly not 6a! Very cruxy though, so probably only E3 but who cares.

with Mike H
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
mikedelderfield 01/Jun/98 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/Jun/98 2nd O/S
with mik
rob.grafton 13/Apr/97 Lead
with Paul McCann, Bruce
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead O/S
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 3
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set