Sha Sha Gleneagles* E4 6b

Rockfax Description
Climb the wall 3m left of the drystone wall to a thin break (missing peg?). Step right and climb to flakes that lead to a peg on the Brothers traverse. Move up to the upper break and peg above it and finish direct via a powerful pull. © ROCKFAX

FA. M.Atkinson 1981
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This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

The peg at the start is gone, there is other gear available but it's pumpy to place, particularly as I ended up putting in three pieces as individually they weren't entirely convincing but between them they were ok. Got flash pumped doing that and had to downclimb to the ground for a shakeout. Went back up and the sequence wasn't too bad but still 6a I reckon. Easy past the flakes then a bit of run out 5a/b across the slab to the overhang. Had lots of goes at the move over roof and took a few falls (very safe) but just couldn't reach the key handhold. The sharp sidepull, high foot and knee combination seemed to work best but still nowhere near it. Gave up and traversed under the roof (quite hard for a bit) to where I thought the E2 goes through it. I tried going up to the right of the jammed wire, which was desperate - fell off twice, ripping the two micros I'd placed in the roof to protect the traverse. Then figured out the actual E2 line a few metres to the left of the peg and jammed wire, up to a jug off an undercut. That was fine at E2. Mike sensibly traversed lower down so had to ab for the gear at the roof. Bad route choice on my part! Seconded Mike up two HVSs and two E1s which were pleasant enough but on the whole I thought this crag was completely uninspiring - too short and largely not steep enough. No desire to come back here ever again! This was E3 6a in the 1980s guide, which was clearly a sandbag as it's certainly not 6a! Very cruxy though, so probably only E3 but who cares.
Misha - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/14 with Mike H

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/03

Hidden - Lead - 2001

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/98 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/98 with mik

rob.grafton - Lead - 13/Apr/97 with Paul McCann, Bruce

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 1989 with Will (S. Williamson)

Total votes cast 9
hard E50 of 3
E50 of 3
easy E50 of 3
hard E40 of 3
E41 of 3
easy E41 of 3
hard E31 of 3
E30 of 3
easy E30 of 3
hard 6c0 of 3
6c0 of 3
easy 6c0 of 3
hard 6b0 of 3
6b2 of 3
easy 6b1 of 3
hard 6a0 of 3
6a0 of 3
easy 6a0 of 3
3 Stars0 of 3
2 Stars2 of 3
1 Star1 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
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