Rockfax Description
Superb flowstone formations on the fingery and technical upper wall. Climb the fist-sized, overhanging crack to a point where the enticing drape of flowstone on the right can be accessed. Climb slightly rightwards up the tricky flowstone whose difficulty gradually eases. © Rockfax

FA. Damian Cook 12/Sep/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

bvilsue 10/Oct 2nd dog


with Rebeca
Hidden ?/Oct -
samparsons 08/Sep Lead O/S

The best 6b on the island just great fun.

innes 31/Aug Lead O/S
with Ruth
R2B 30/Aug Lead O/S

Very very good.

with Climb
Emily Y 30/Aug -
Hidden 29/Aug Lead rpt
Parker550 28/Aug Lead O/S
with Pete Cahill, jim hewson
RosePearson 15/Aug Lead β
with Harry Fogg
Montecore 10/Aug Lead O/S
with Daniel Mi, Matt Ray
Rockmonkey1977 09/Aug Lead β

Very good route!!

Hidden 02/Aug Lead rpt
ArrMcC 01/Aug Lead O/S

Very onsightable. Really nice moves over the flowstone and a cool layback start.

with Chloe Davidson
mdolan 01/Aug Lead O/S

Best climb of the year so far. I managed to find a great rest after the crack, gathered some composure, had a few looks at where to go, rested again and then finally went for the top, missing the second last bolt and running it out spectacularly. Great fun. Clean onsight.

Hidden 30/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul Lead β
Hidden 28/Jul Lead dnf
dandry 28/Jul Lead O/S
with Jonny Dry
Neil_M_L 11/Jul 2nd β
robfir 05/Jul -
Vespa63 05/Jul Lead O/S
LaraKate224 05/Jul TR
DanielGyi 04/Jul Lead
Hidden 27/Jun Lead rpt
Philoosh 13/Jun Lead O/S
philhaigh 10/Jun Lead rpt


with Ed Babs
TonyB 06/Jun Lead rpt
with Bowline Climbing Club
philhaigh 05/Jun Lead rpt
with Tom Adams, Shamina Kapadia
chris85 ?/Jun Lead O/S
tsyrett 25/May Lead O/S

Loved it...

Hidden 10/May Lead O/S
David Staples 10/May Lead rpt
Nick Clement 14/Apr AltLd rpt
with mandy clement
JackMac 09/Apr Lead O/S

Cool route.

with Camwa, Jamie
FreddieSmith 06/Apr Lead O/S
chakrit 04/Apr Lead rpt
with Gary
Hidden 04/Apr Lead RP
Javis 02/Apr Lead O/S
embob 26/Mar Lead dnf

Far too cold and windy so escaped to the cuttings, bailed at the second bolt - the bottom section felt easy last time!

with Alex
Charlie Noakes 22/Mar Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 22/Mar Lead O/S
with Jadey Lewis
Jon_Warner 22/Mar Lead rpt

Sooo good, Much more pleasant on a non greasy day.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni, Tom, Jonny
Owen Diba 22/Mar Lead dog
Hidden 22/Mar Lead O/S
chakrit 14/Mar Lead O/S
with Gary
Rgswarren 14/Mar Lead RP
garywong 07/Mar Lead O/S
with Peri Cheale
Hidden 21/Feb Lead RP
sideshow84 21/Feb Lead O/S

Very bold with the spaced bolts, exciting tho

Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Benmay 28/Sep/14 Lead RP
LJC 28/Sep/14 2nd
with Ben May
Rupey 27/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Al and Gaz
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Curly Rich 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with gmc
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd
adam 24 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ash Sayers 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 -
Peter Lovell 31/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 29/Aug/14 Lead β

Awesome river climbing. Could do with another bolt at 3rd.

with Jonny
Gem Minihan 24/Aug/14 Lead RP
Gem Minihan 24/Aug/14 TR RP
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead dog
Nick Clement 07/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
Nick Clement 06/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
philhaigh 24/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Bertie Hubbard, Shamina Kapadia, Gem Minihan
philhaigh 20/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Fi Marlow, Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young, Natalie Haigh
philhaigh 15/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan
Hidden 14/Jul/14 Lead rpt
James S 14/Jul/14 Lead O/S

wonderful! nice laybacking followed by beautiful flowstone to the top, what more can you ask for!

with jake, rose, tom p, geoff
Gem Minihan 13/Jul/14 2nd dog
dready 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 22/Jun/14 TR dog
Joe W-O 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
youwillfindjimbo 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jess
RKirke 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
cem 14/Jun/14 Lead β

Not o/s as Pete did it first. Slow to read the crux sequence so got pretty pumped.

with Pete (Tim's friend), Tim Howard
pymn nice but dim 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Amazing route run out but flowy really nice flake into flowstone upper

skippington 26/May/14 Lead O/S
afrosam 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/14 Lead O/S
Dandan82 17/May/14 Lead rpt
philhaigh 03/May/14 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Rob Gates, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Rupey 03/May/14 Lead rpt
jshields 03/May/14 Lead
with Paul Tretheway, Ed James
AlexD 30/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Ed
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Nick Clement ??/2014 Lead
with mandy clement
Simon cook ??/2014 -
Simon cook ??/2014 -
BenL 07/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Ryu
RFWilkie 21/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Had previously taken a whipper off this when an undercut came off in my hand. A bit run out but good moves.

henry peter jenkins 02/Sep/13 TR
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead rpt
EmilyElouise 01/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead rpt
skunky456 06/Aug/13 Lead β

awesome exciting line

spacecadetjake ?/Aug/13 2nd dnf
with Robbie, Henry, Jay
Hidden 27/Jul/13 2nd β
lewiz 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Pete Dangerous 06/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Kamil
Maxim2023 ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S

This should be a top 50 not reptile smile. Amazing flow stone climbing.

with Kate Tarrant
leeoftroy ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
rod.merceron 30/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead β
jwpil 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Ben
mop449 19/Jun/13 Lead
mop449 18/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
maybe_si 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Leiko
coneco 02/Jun/13 Lead β
with Julie Carroll
Russtygibbons 01/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Ant
drewish 27/May/13 Lead O/S
gibsond 27/May/13 Lead rpt
timmyhobby 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Robnort 05/May/13 Lead dnf
Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Alan, Martin
pearson9596 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd dog
dh4096 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt
ian d f 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
jh123 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Don Hernik
BenL 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
Robnort ??/2013 Lead dnf

got two clips and died. one to work.

benscarter ??/2013 TR RP
with Jack
Hidden ??/2013 2nd
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
paultaylor 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Grant
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
ian caton 30/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Abi
gibsond 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead dog
lukas richardo 19/Aug/12 Lead β
gibsond 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Found this route fairly easy (technically easier than some of the F6a's in the area, but requires a bit of strength and stamina).

with Adam Clegg
Hidden 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/12 TR dog
tobydunford 17/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
Graham Westbrook 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S
David Staples ?/Aug/12 Lead rpt
philhaigh 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins, Natalie Haigh
nataliehaigh 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Jul/12 TR dog
Tim M 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg 30/Jun/12 2nd
LeahJamie 23/Jun/12 Lead dog
with mrtom
joe1joe1joe2 20/Jun/12 Lead β

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. I remember this route being very pumpy, made me work for it!

iClimber 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Evie 10/Jun/12 Lead rpt
ferdia 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Burton
DJ Nelson 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/12 TR β
scottski ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Rupey 29/May/12 Lead
with Barry
Mr Powly 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Hertha
Adamwillclimb 04/May/12 Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 25/Mar/12 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
alek 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
davidliu 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Martin Cleaver, Alek Kumar
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
dan gibson 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with martin cleaver, sam read
Nick Russell 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Emily
Hidden 02/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead β
Dandan82 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
halfwaythere 22/Feb/12 TR RP
with pete
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
RadekNowak ??/2012 Lead β
james.pilbeam 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 06/Nov/11 Lead dog


with rupe
SMc 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Anne
burto 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with hertha
Mike Green 24/Sep/11 -
zdenek strycek 24/Sep/11 Lead
with Trevedian, Karolina Klos
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead β
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Vince 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with John Percy
jfreeman 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
simonr 14/Aug/11 Lead β
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
sportsten 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with SwissMachine
tom.ireson 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Felt a bit wild getting to most of the clips, really great climbing though. Felt like a slightly trickier and bolder version of reptile smile.

with Paul Ackland
embob 29/Jul/11 Lead dog

The bolt spacing looked pretty intimidating when stood at the bottom of the route, but actually perfectly positioned. Two falls over the flowstone section. Quite straightforward when you know what holds to use! Great contrasting climbing, first attempt at a 6b in the UK. EA.

with Alex
Hidden 29/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
sarpedon 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 24/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Mark Wellin, Maryanne Garon, Spence
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 23/Jul/11 Lead RP

Rested on this a few months ago, went fine this time

Hidden 23/Jul/11 -
cayteye 30/Jun/11 2nd β
with stephen pearson
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead dog
Sami Mandeel 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Spence
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Evie 19/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Yann
xiangoh ?/May/11 Lead
Dave Reeve 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Steve Cousins
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead RP
Bristoldave 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S


with Andrew
wi11 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Carlos, Nat
bluesharper 13/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Roger
Luke Dawson 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S
tscoobydoo 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Bolts pretty far apart, dusty flowstone, but still a very enjoyable route..

with phillip belcher
mutt ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 TR dog
Jeronimo 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Mia
Jonathan Emett 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt

lovely climb.

with ben
Hidden 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 TR RP
Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Martin Cleaver ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mikeconway 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 07/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mikeconway 04/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Tomar 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
jacobjlloyd 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Ivan
mark_wellin 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
clipskipper 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
Will_Maxwell 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Miles Whitehead, Rafael Pena
Hidden 21/Jul/10 Lead dog
Bates 10/Jul/10 Lead RP

Found it easy after working out the flowstone!

tew105 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 18/May/10 Lead O/S
with Steve H
ruaidh 15/May/10 Lead O/S

Nice layback moves at the bottom. Moved left into the grove, then back right just under the pipes. Tired at the top.

with oli
Wendy 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Coles
AsleepOnBelay 14/May/10 Lead dog

Been looking forward to this for ages, so was sad to fluff the flowstone and take a rest. Still, every bit as good as it looks and I've got a good reason to get on it again :)

with Sarah Davis
brices ?/May/10 Lead O/S
celoisa 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Nic
Tomar 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
nacnud 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Marcus Boal, Natalie Tanzer
Hidden 16/Apr/10 TR
3 Names 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
garywong 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Mark Shale 11/Apr/10 Lead dnf
with Gary
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
mark schramm 29/Oct/09 Lead
with si
Simon Allcock ?/Oct/09 TR
with Mark
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Jus 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 05/Sep/09 Lead
natalietanzer 31/Aug/09 Lead RP
dan gibson 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
chris sm 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
TonyB 03/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Anni
mloskot 25/Jul/09 Lead RP

My second climb in Portland, though I did rest after clipped 4th quickdraw. Solid rock. I like it very much.

Hidden 13/Jul/09 Lead RP
JimR 12/Jul/09 -
AJM 12/Jul/09 Lead β

Good route. Despite Ray having done it before me I didn't feel anything but onsight clawing my way up the flowstone bit :)

with Jim Robertson, Ray Harris
briar4012 10/Jul/09 TR dog
with Rob
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead
OliBoyes 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S

missed out one of the bolts, and ran it out like a bitch!

with Chris Barr
Chris_barr 23/Jun/09 Lead β
Hidden 14/Jun/09 TR dog
Hidden 14/Jun/09 TR dog
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead dog
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead β
jw231 02/May/09 Lead O/S
nblackbeard 02/May/09 Lead O/S


Hidden 02/May/09 2nd dog
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
FrostyWebb 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Nice to still be able to climb at this grade!

with Julia
Rokmunky 08/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Hannah
ASchwirtz 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Andrew Livingstone
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
Dan_Carroll 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
vertigo 28/Feb/09 Lead RP
with Tiff
TiffTiff 28/Feb/09 Lead RP
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead O/S
Martin Davies 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
garburn 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Ivan
Jonathan Emett 27/Sep/08 Lead dnf
with rich
Hidden 02/Aug/08 TR dog
Hidden 02/Aug/08 Lead
Ed Babs 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Roger
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead
Matt Bennett 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Lead rpt
timharrison 16/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Jo Chia
Morgan Woods 15/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with David S
trev_f 30/May/08 Lead RP
with Bungle
givemetea 10/May/08 Lead β
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd
silhouette ?/May/08 Lead β
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd dog
JClimber ??/2008 TR O/S
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 11/Nov/07 TR O/S
givemetea 06/Oct/07 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd
tobydunford 07/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Dorset ?/Jun/07 2nd
Luke Marsden ?/May/07 Lead RP
with Jonathan Plumridge
eppa 14/Apr/07 TR dnf

so tired! backed off!

Rob Laird 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

first 6b onsight!

trevor macalonan 07/Apr/07 Lead RP
with Tim
timharrison 07/Apr/07 2nd
dannyboy83 ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
bigie bob 23/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
onlytovey ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
timharrison 26/Oct/06 Lead rpt
bronsonite 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Nathan Lawrence
nathanmanc 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Tom Lawrence
finchelata 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Yvan
JPGR 05/Aug/06 Lead dog
with Scott
catt 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Tia
timharrison 08/Jul/06 Lead dog
Wilbur 28/May/06 Lead O/S
with Morgan
Hidden 26/May/06 2nd dog
Morgan Woods ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Wilbur
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 31/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Leo & Tony
Mark Kemball 31/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/05 Lead rpt
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Katex ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Lucy Bland
Smelly Fox ?/Jul/04 Lead dog
with Mark Button
_m.cox_ ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 06/May/03 Lead O/S
with Ben Merryfield
Hidden ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
just one more 15/Mar/03 Lead
with Svenn G
Hidden 07/Dec/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/02 -
AlexD ??/2002 Lead β
Hidden 03/Sep/01 2nd
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Rock Fairy ??/2001 2nd
with david
Hidden ?/Sep/00 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/00 Lead
Rob Oram 11/Jun/00 TR dnf

Managed about 80% but the crux got me!

with Phil Milanes & Dave Frusher
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
John Southworth ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Simon cook ?/Sep/97 Lead O/S
Neil R 28/Mar/97 2nd
with Richard W
kp64zl ?/Jul/96 Lead
rob.grafton 09/Jun/96 Lead
with Bruce
Roget 09/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Kevster ??/1996 -
AndySL ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden 17/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/95 Lead
Bruce Kerr 11/Apr/94 Lead
with Perric Crellin
Nigel Coe ??/1994 Lead

Approx date

Nigel Coe 10/Oct/92 2nd
with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby
Hidden 10/Oct/92 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dsefton1403, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, twoshoes127, Hidden, shaws, Hidden, Jaime Mitchell, Jeremy Crampin, fleapitfan, Ezy Ryder, Hidden
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 96
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set