Dorset > Blacknor North >
 
Very Sleepy River** 6b

Adjacent Climbs
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[Cracking the crag, 3 kb]22m. Superb flowstone formations on the fingery and technical upper wall. Climb the fist-sized, overhanging crack to a point where the enticing drape of flowstone on the right can be accessed. Climb slightly rightwards up the tricky flowstone whose difficulty gradually eases. © ROCKFAX
FA. Damian Cook 12/Sep/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Photo: Cracking the crag © mloskot
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 323 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/14 with Bertie Hubbard, Shamina Kapadia, Gem Minihan

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/14 with Fi Marlow, Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young, Natalie Haigh

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/14 with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan

TommityP - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/14

wonderful! nice laybacking followed by beautiful flowstone to the top, what more can you ask for!
James S - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/14 with jake, rose, tom p, geoff

Gem Minihan - 2nd dog - 13/Jul/14 with Barry Kerslake

dready - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with whiteexplorer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/14 with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh

Hidden - TR dog - 22/Jun/14

youwillfindjimbo - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14

Roger Kirke - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with mikespooner

DorsetGareth - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Andy Wiseman

Not o/s as Pete did it first. Slow to read the crux sequence so got pretty pumped.
cem - Lead β - 14/Jun/14 with Pete (Tim's friend), Tim Howard

Amazing route run out but flowy really nice flake into flowstone upper
pymn nice but dim - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14

skippington - Lead O/S - 26/May/14

afrosam - Lead O/S - 25/May/14 with Trisha Murphy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/14

Dandan82 - Lead rpt - 17/May/14 with Lisa Marsh

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 03/May/14 with Aarron Schofield, Rob Gates, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh

Rupey - Lead rpt - 03/May/14

jshields - Lead - 03/May/14 with Paul Tretheway, Ed James

AlexD - Lead rpt - 30/Apr/14 with Ed

Antony87 - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/14 with Jesus Joe, Mars

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Mar/14

BenL - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/13 with Ryu

Had previously taken a whipper off this when an undercut came off in my hand. A bit run out but good moves.
RFWilkie - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/13

henry peter jenkins - TR - 02/Sep/13 with jake mcmanus, robbie jenkins

Brilliant climb!
TommityP - Lead rpt - 01/Sep/13

EmilyElouise - 2nd rpt - 01/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Aug/13

awesome exciting line
skunky456 - Lead β - 06/Aug/13

spacecadetjake - 2nd dnf - Aug/13 with Robbie, Henry, Jay

Hidden - 2nd β - 27/Jul/13

lewiz - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Pete Gagie

Pete Dangerous - Lead RP - 06/Jul/13 with Kamil

This should be a top 50 not reptile smile. Amazing flow stone climbing.
Maxim2023 - Lead O/S - Jul/13 with Kate Tarrant

leeoftroy - Lead O/S - Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/13

rod.merceron - Lead dog - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead β - 29/Jun/13

jwpil - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/13 with Ben

mop449 - Lead - 19/Jun/13 with John Beesley

mop449 - Lead dog - 18/Jun/13 with John Beesley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/13

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Julie Carroll - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Leiko

Leiko Miura - Lead β - 02/Jun/13 with Julie Carroll

Russtygibbons - Lead RP - 01/Jun/13 with Ant

drewish - Lead O/S - 27/May/13

gibsond - Lead rpt - 27/May/13 with Drew Mulcahy

timmyhobby - Lead O/S - 25/May/13

Robnort - Lead dnf - 05/May/13 with paul clauston

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Alan, Martin

pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Ian Faulkner

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Apr/13

dh4096 - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/13

ian d f - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Michael P

jh123 - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Don Hernik

BenL - Lead dog - 20/Apr/13

got two clips and died. one to work.
Robnort - Lead dnf - 2013 with paul clauston

benscarter - TR RP - 2013 with Jack

Hidden - 2nd - 2013

Tommyads - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Grant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

ian caton - Lead RP - 30/Aug/12 with Abi

gibsond - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/12 with Tim Ellerton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Aug/12

lukas richardo - Lead β - 19/Aug/12

Found this route fairly easy (technically easier than some of the F6a's in the area, but requires a bit of strength and stamina).
gibsond - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Adam Clegg

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12

Hidden - TR dog - 18/Aug/12

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/12 with Kirsty Kerr

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/12

made it as far as the flowstone 1st bolt, but couldnt see the route. Apparently this part is easier that the crack at the beginning!
robbo99 - Lead dnf - Aug/12

David Staples - Lead rpt - Aug/12

philhaigh - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Mike Hawkins, Natalie Haigh

nataliehaigh - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - TR dog - 15/Jul/12

Tim M - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 30/Jun/12 with cheesesarnie

LeahJamie - Lead dog - 23/Jun/12 with mrtom

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. I remember this route being very pumpy, made me work for it!
joe1joe1joe2 - Lead β - 20/Jun/12

iClimber - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Lukedavidalden

Evie - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/12

ferdia - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/12 with Burton

DJ Nelson - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Adam Clegg

Hidden - TR β - Jun/12

scottski - Lead O/S - Jun/12

Rupey - Lead - 29/May/12 with Barry

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Hertha

Adamwillclimb - Lead O/S - 04/May/12

EmilyElouise - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12

TommityP - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12

alek - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with David Liu

davidliu - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Martin Cleaver, Alek Kumar

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/12

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with martin cleaver, sam read

Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Emily

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Feb/12

Dandan82 - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12

halfwaythere - TR RP - 22/Feb/12 with pete

matt perks - 2012

Hidden - 2012

PAJames - 2012

RadekNowak - Lead β - 2012

james.pilbeam - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11

tired
Jonathan Emett - Lead dog - 06/Nov/11 with rupe

SMc - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Anne

burto - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11 with hertha

Mike Green - 24/Sep/11 with Zdenek, Karolina Klos

zdenek strycek - Lead - 24/Sep/11 with Trevedian, Karolina Klos

Hidden - Lead β - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

Vince - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/11 with John Percy

jfreeman - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Simon Robinson

simonr - Lead β - 14/Aug/11 with Jon Freeman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

sportsten - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with SwissMachine

Felt a bit wild getting to most of the clips, really great climbing though. Felt like a slightly trickier and bolder version of reptile smile.
tom.ireson - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Paul Ackland

The bolt spacing looked pretty intimidating when stood at the bottom of the route, but actually perfectly positioned. Two falls over the flowstone section. Quite straightforward when you know what holds to use! Great contrasting climbing, first attempt at a 6b in the UK. EA.
embob - Lead dog - 29/Jul/11 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11

sarpedon - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Sami Mandeel - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/11 with Mark Wellin, Maryanne Garon, Spence

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Rested on this a few months ago, went fine this time
Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 23/Jul/11 with Ruth Buckberry, James Brewer

Hidden - 23/Jul/11

cayteye - 2nd β - 30/Jun/11 with stephen pearson

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Jun/11

Sami Mandeel - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Spence

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11

Evie - Lead RP - 19/Jun/11 with Yann

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Steve Cousins

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 03/Apr/11

Hard!
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/11 with Andrew

wi11 - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Carlos, Nat

bluesharper - Lead dog - 13/Mar/11 with Roger

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/11

Bolts pretty far apart, dusty flowstone, but still a very enjoyable route..
tscoobydoo - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/11 with phillip belcher

mutt - 2011

Hidden - TR dog - 16/Oct/10

Jeronimo - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/10 with Mia

lovely climb.
Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/10 with ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/10

Hidden - TR RP - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10

Martin Cleaver - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

mikeconway - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

jacobjacob - Lead β - 07/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10

mikeconway - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/10

Tomar - Lead rpt - 01/Aug/10 with "Brosky"

jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Ivan

mark_wellin - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10

clipskipper - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Duncan

Will_Maxwell - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Miles Whitehead, Rafael Pena

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Jul/10

Found it easy after working out the flowstone!
Bates - Lead RP - 10/Jul/10

tew105 - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10

Barry Kerslake - Lead O/S - 18/May/10 with Steve H

Nice layback moves at the bottom. Moved left into the grove, then back right just under the pipes. Tired at the top.
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with oli

Wendy - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Mike Coles

Been looking forward to this for ages, so was sad to fluff the flowstone and take a rest. Still, every bit as good as it looks and I've got a good reason to get on it again :)
jeffsheard - Lead dog - 14/May/10 with Sarah Davis

brices - Lead O/S - May/10

celoisa - Lead RP - 18/Apr/10 with Nic

Tomar - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

natalietanzer - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Duncan

nacnud - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10 with Marcus Boal, Natalie Tanzer

Hidden - TR - 16/Apr/10

3 Names - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Sumee Holloway

garywong - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Mark Shale

Mark Shale - Lead dnf - 11/Apr/10 with Gary

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

mark schramm - Lead - 29/Oct/09 with si

Simon Allcock - TR - Oct/09 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Sep/09

Jus - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

Pete Scott - Lead - 05/Sep/09

natalietanzer - Lead RP - 31/Aug/09

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with michael porter

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09

Brilliant! and a bit of a gift at the grade.
Quiddity - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Curious Yellow

chris sm - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Pippa Froggatt

TonyB - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/09 with Anni

My second climb in Portland, though I did rest after clipped 4th quickdraw. Solid rock. I like it very much.
mloskot - Lead RP - 25/Jul/09 with Roger hill

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Jul/09

JimR - 12/Jul/09

Good route. Despite Ray having done it before me I didn't feel anything but onsight clawing my way up the flowstone bit :)
AJM - Lead β - 12/Jul/09 with Jim Robertson, Ray Harris

briar4012 - TR dog - 10/Jul/09 with Rob

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jul/09

missed out one of the bolts, and ran it out like a bitch!
OliBoyes - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with Chris Barr

Chris_barr - Lead β - 23/Jun/09

Hidden - TR dog - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - TR dog - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/May/09

Hidden - 2nd - 09/May/09

Hidden - Lead β - 03/May/09

jw231 - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with nblackbeard

Fantastic
nblackbeard - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with James Whitlock

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09

Nice to still be able to climb at this grade!
FrostyWebb - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/09 with Julia

Rokmunky - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/09 with Hannah

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Andrew Livingstone

Jane Weir - Lead - 17/Mar/09

Jane Weir - Lead - 17/Mar/09

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Rebecca Holland

vertigo - Lead RP - 28/Feb/09 with Tiff

TiffTiff - Lead RP - 28/Feb/09 with Rich Dagnan

nealh - Lead - 2009

Alex More - Lead O/S - 2009

Martin Davies - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Ed Lemon

garburn - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Ivan

Jonathan Emett - Lead dnf - 27/Sep/08 with rich

Hidden - TR dog - 02/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/08

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Roger

Hidden - Lead - Jul/08

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/08

timharrison - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/08 with Jo Chia

Morgan Woods - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/08 with David S

trev_f - Lead RP - 30/May/08 with Bungle

givemetea - Lead β - 10/May/08 with Hannah Heywood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/08

Hidden - 2nd - 10/May/08

silhouette - Lead β - May/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/Apr/08

JClimber - TR O/S - 2008

nawface - Lead - 2008

Hidden - TR O/S - 11/Nov/07

givemetea - Lead dog - 06/Oct/07 with Hannah Heywood

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Oct/07

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/07 with Ben Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07

Dorset - 2nd - Jun/07

Luke Marsden - Lead RP - May/07 with Jonathan Plumridge

so tired! backed off!
eppa - TR dnf - 14/Apr/07 with silhouette

first 6b onsight!
Rob Laird - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07

trevor macalonan - Lead RP - 07/Apr/07 with Tim

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Mar/07 with Felix Coxwell

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2007

onlytovey - 2007

chrisbevins - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

timharrison - Lead rpt - 26/Oct/06 with Trevor Macalonan

bronsonite - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with Nathan Lawrence

nathanmanc - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with Tom Lawrence

finchelata - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/06 with Yvan

JPGR - Lead dog - 05/Aug/06 with Scott

catt - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/06 with Tia

timharrison - Lead dog - 08/Jul/06 with Trevor Macalonan

Wilbur - Lead O/S - 28/May/06 with Morgan

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/May/06

Morgan Woods - Lead O/S - May/06 with Wilbur

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

Boy - 2006

feeko - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/05

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/05 with Leo & Tony

Mark Kemball - Lead O/S - 31/May/05 with Tom Newberry

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/05

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 2005

Katex - Lead O/S - Jul/04 with Lucy Bland

Smelly Fox - Lead dog - Jul/04 with Mark Button

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Feb/04 with Adam Mulholland

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 06/May/03 with Ben Merryfield

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/02

Hidden - 17/Feb/02

AlexD - Lead β - 2002

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/01

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2001 with david

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/00

Hidden - Lead - Jul/00

Managed about 80% but the crux got me!
Rob Oram - TR dnf - 11/Jun/00 with Phil Milanes & Dave Frusher

Richard White - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Jun/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/98

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Neil R - 2nd - 28/Mar/97 with Richard W

kp64zl - Lead - Jul/96

rob.grafton - Lead - 09/Jun/96 with Bruce

Roget - Lead O/S - 09/May/96 with jon

Kevster - 1996

AndySL - Lead O/S - 1996 with Mark

Hidden - Lead - 17/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/95

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 11/Apr/94 with Perric Crellin

Approx date
Nigel Coe - Lead - 1994

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 10/Oct/92 with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
twoshoes127, Hidden, shaws, JackMac, Jaime Mitchell, Jeremy Crampin, Hidden, fleapitfan, Ezy Ryder, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 173
hard 6b+0 of 88
6b+0 of 88
easy 6b+2 of 88
hard 6b15 of 88
6b54 of 88
easy 6b16 of 88
hard 6a+1 of 88
6a+0 of 88
easy 6a+0 of 88
3 Stars43 of 85
2 Stars41 of 85
1 Star1 of 85
0 Stars0 of 85
Bag of .....0 of 85
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead263 of 323 (81.4%)
Followed22 of 323 (6.8%)
Toproped19 of 323 (5.9%)
Unknown19 of 323 (5.9%)

'Climbed'59 of 323 (18.3%)
clean O/S144 of 323 (44.6%)
clean β20 of 323 (6.2%)
clean rpt39 of 323 (12.1%)
clean RP20 of 323 (6.2%)
dogged33 of 323 (10.2%)
dnf8 of 323 (2.5%)