Dorset > Blacknor North >
 
Mother's Milk** 6a

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[Phil on 'Motherís Milk' (6a) Blacknor North, Portland, 3 kb]21m. A top crack climb that is both fun and pumpy. Keep an eye out for the bolt hidden within the crack. © ROCKFAX
FA. Simon Cook 8.11.92 08/Nov/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland.

Photo: Phil on 'Motherís Milk' (6a) Blacknor North, Portland © Phil M
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 353 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

rwestcott - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Thomas Fassnacht

ConstaBern - Lead - 09/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Mar/14

Quite difficult, I don't think I want to do this again.
Charlotteking - TR dog - 21/Jan/14 with Ginger Fitness, Tom

Tommyads - 2014

kenneM - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/13

nice crack climbing
goddamm7 - TR O/S - 01/Sep/13 with sarah batson

Took one rest, as got pumped
jrccrosby - Lead - 11/Aug/13 with Elsie

eckleysam - Lead dnf - 07/Aug/13 with Robert

Mike W - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/13

rd20 - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/13 with Sam

Hidden - TR O/S - 06/Aug/13

lauraT - Lead dnf - 06/Aug/13

just one more - Lead - 29/Jul/13 with babs schempp, marc schempp

Flippy - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/13

DDDD - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Sham

will7 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13 with techno gek

Flippy - Lead - Jul/13 with Emma

martin one - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/13 with Neil Nand

Rested before the hard section, was more nerves than anything (although my arms were feeling it a little).
ElBarto - Lead dog - 30/Jun/13 with Martin Lennon

Hidden - Lead β - 29/Jun/13

Sami Mandeel - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Shamina

Fell off the crux. Too pumped.
wurzelinzummerset - Lead dog - 24/Jun/13 with Remus

Jay-Ast - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Rosyk

Rosyk - 2nd dog - 15/Jun/13 with Jay astbury

ConstaBern - TR - Jun/13

pumpy, panicked by the 4th/5th clip at the crack ... not many hand holds.
Montse Shelbourne - Lead dog - 26/May/13 with Nathan

nath_casper - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Montse Shelb

Hidden - 20/May/13

ConstaBern - TR - May/13

dh4096 - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/13

jh123 - Lead β - 28/Apr/13 with Don Hernik

patrickc - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Sue

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/13

Hard to get to the bolt in the crack. Tried leading it, gave up and let Bill do it and couldn't even second it cleanly. Too cold.
AndyMcCoy - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/13 with Bill

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jan/13

Hidden - 2013

Peter Lovell - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/12

angie - TR - 29/Sep/12

brew_guru - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with simon fowler

Trippinjester - TR O/S - 22/Sep/12 with dan, Jennie Fowler, paul southgate

CurlyStevo - Lead - Sep/12 with Rob

gibsond - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Tim Ellerton

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/Aug/12

Flippin' good fun, nice burly bits but no serious crack climbing skills required really!
mattgrange - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12

Ali.B - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12

Julie Carroll - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/12 with Ali Bahar

some pretty neat moves managed to throw a knee bar in there too..
Dan_F - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Markmclimby

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - TR β - 15/Jul/12

Adamwillclimb - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/12

LeahJamie - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12 with mrtom

mop449 - Jun/12

Jaime Mitchell - TR rpt - 27/May/12

therat - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

philhaigh - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with Rob Kennard

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/May/12

Ian Fidd - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Zoe

Tru - Lead O/S - 20/May/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/May/12

Hidden - TR β - May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12

second 6a in Portland, long crack climb, crux seemed to be moving to the bolt hidden in the crack which needed a flag move off the right foot, then some flowstone holds and balance to move to a quick finish. Repeated as enjoyed.
Robin Brooke - Lead - Apr/12 with Paula Ryan

Pryan - Lead - Apr/12 with Robin Brooke

Jaime Mitchell - 2nd dog - 31/Mar/12

Jaime Mitchell - Lead dnf - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Mar/12

rd20 - Lead rpt - 25/Mar/12 with Sonya

andyob - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with jonny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 11/Mar/12

Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Emily

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/12

btc - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/12 with Gabby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12

robbo99 - 2nd O/S - 2012 with Tim Ellerton

PAJames - 2012

NelsonJ - Lead O/S - 2012

minimark001 - 2012

robbo99 - 2012

Looked intimidating so I seconded it, I need to man up.
banjoSanchez - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/11

Izzy Brinsden - 2nd - 02/Nov/11 with Eddie Church, Jim McPetrie

Hidden - Nov/11

martin one - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with jeremy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Deniz Sumengen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11

burto - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11 with hertha

KarolinaKlos - Lead β - 25/Sep/11 with Michael Herrington-Green

Mike Green - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Zdenek, Karolina Klos

zdenek strycek - Lead - 24/Sep/11 with Trevedian, Karolina Klos

last climb of the weekend... couldnt see the hidden bolt and rested... one to repeat clean...
tania - Lead dog - 04/Sep/11 with andrea

Hidden - 04/Sep/11

Chickened out on 3rd clip from top.
ahaynes - Lead dnf - 31/Aug/11 with Eddie Goodey

Duncan Turner - Lead dog - 20/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11

Hidden - TR dog - 20/Aug/11

Gilster - TR - 20/Aug/11 with Ian Lee

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Aug/11

Eike - AltLd - 14/Aug/11 with Tom Emery

louby - TR - 14/Aug/11 with Chris Burn

chris_B - Lead - 14/Aug/11

leowestland - Lead - Aug/11

david.pearmain - Lead - 31/Jul/11

GilesV - Lead rpt - 31/Jul/11 with Skrapes

Exciting route! A short down climb then powered through the steep bit. AE.
embob - Lead - 30/Jul/11 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/11

Several rests - done after Reptile Smile so was pumped and shaky from the fall!
Chris Manasseh - Lead - 26/Jul/11 with Andy Gee

adlamixion - Lead β - 26/Jul/11 with peter

amazing layback/jamming crack climb
laurence orchard - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11

Ran out of oomph at the end of the day. Laybacking overhangs isn't my thing.
Matt Smith - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/11 with Jen Durden, Jo Davison

JenDurden - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/11 with Jo Davison, Matt Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

lewiz - Lead - 24/Jul/11 with Vlad Vishnyakov

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Jul/11

Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 07/Jul/11 with cheese ben

Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/11 with Jonathan E

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Sam Howel

MikeC59 - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Jun/11

jh123 - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/11

fildac - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11

mike.rigby - Lead β - Jun/11 with Mike Gallimore

tom106 - Lead O/S - 31/May/11

clean if not rested to see where next bolt was :(
Ross.Cooper - Lead dog - 29/May/11 with Tom Sturgeon

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/May/11

Skullfire - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Jonas Gustafsson

marcb - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Amy Nash

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Steve Cousins

Vee - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11

jw231 - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Alex Skew

hotfeet - 23/Apr/11 with Alex Pond

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Apr/11

natalio - Lead dog - 02/Apr/11 with Stephen

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Mar/11

Amy Horton - Lead - 27/Mar/11

tomhennigan - Lead dog - 27/Mar/11 with Caroline Hammond

Ben Harper - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Joe Premier

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Mar/11

yarrow - Lead dog - 12/Mar/11

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Dad

Ceridwen - Lead dog - 09/Jan/11 with Sophie Nunn

Hidden - Lead dog - 09/Jan/11

Alriiiiiiiiiiiiight!! :)
ScottPurdy - Lead dog - 09/Jan/11 with Ollie Hoffmann

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Ceridwen Hutchinson

PeterDawson - Lead O/S - 2011

MichaelGallimore - Lead O/S - 2011 with MikeR

clukins - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10 with Phil Davies

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10

harder than I expected. maybe because it was the end of the day?
lewiz - Lead β - 24/Oct/10

RachaelB - 2nd - 17/Oct/10 with Jenny Brown

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

garywong - Lead rpt - 16/Oct/10 with Gareth Hall

GarethHall - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Patrick Goodwin, Gary Wong

Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Sue, Andy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/10

Worked this last year, felt much easier with improved technique. Def 2 stars
jamespilgrim - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/10 with Mark

dav - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Gill B

Jonathan Emett - Lead RP - 15/Aug/10 with Lyndsay

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

mikeconway - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - Aug/10

clipskipper - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Duncan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10

Will_Maxwell - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Miles Whitehead, Rafael Pena

Miles87 - 2nd dog - 22/Jul/10 with Will Maxwell

cameron_hall - Lead dog - 18/Jul/10 with Ian Cooper, Will Benfold

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Ian C, Cameron

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10

Jim Gaffney - Lead dog - 10/Jul/10 with Ian Cooper

Kap - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

Peterjuliandawson - Lead β - 15/May/10

RFWilkie - Lead rpt - 15/May/10

Had to rest before making the hidden clip behind the flake.
Popkids - Lead dog - 24/Apr/10 with david

It seemed short. Straightward.What you see is what you get; a pumpy laybacky crack climb..
eroica64 - TR - 17/Apr/10 with Dave Thompson, Lawrence King

aidanb - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10

Mark Shale - TR O/S - 12/Apr/10 with Tony

givemetea - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/10 with Gary Wong

3 Names - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Sumee Holloway

garywong - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Roslyn McKendry

retroflash
Quiddity - Lead RP - 08/Apr/10 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - 2010

mark schramm - Lead - 29/Oct/09 with si

Simon Allcock - Lead - Oct/09 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/09

v strenuous.spaced bolts
mark4344 - Lead dog - 30/Sep/09 with andreas and matt

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Sep/09

tomB - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/09 with Jody

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

Dave Latimer - Lead - 07/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 06/Sep/09

sophie291188 - Lead dnf - Sep/09

sara n - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Karl Blanchet

Didnt notice the need to jam, just the need to have a decent amount of arm strength!
jamespilgrim - Lead dog - 08/Aug/09 with Mark

benparratt - TR dog - Aug/09

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/09 with Lee

mjeffery - Lead - 27/Jul/09

excellent crack climbing! - an eiree cold breeze was emitted from the crack keeping the holds and climber cool in face of some strenuous jamming. (Used a foot bar, chicken wing and fist jam to name a few)
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with J

mjeffery - Lead - 14/Jul/09

Monk - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Matt Hartgrove

Julesthe1st - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Stana

dale1968 - Lead - 04/Jul/09 with Tom

I can't jam, I can't jam, the only thing about me is the way that I crimp.
Justin T - Lead dog - 18/Jun/09 with Crispin

langar27 - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09 with jon harvey

Hidden - TR dog - 14/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09

olmo - 05/Jun/09 with Johannes

98%monkey - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Christian

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/May/09

Listy - Lead β - 24/May/09

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/09

langar27 - Lead dnf - 12/Apr/09 with Tom Syrett

danm - Lead - 11/Apr/09

Great fun, very varied climbing.
AndyM-LVB - Lead RP - 03/Apr/09 with Nicolas Tardy

OliBoyes - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09 with Harry Smale

Jane Weir - Lead - 17/Mar/09

Jane Weir - Lead - 17/Mar/09

dave657 - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09

Dandan82 - Lead O/S - Mar/09 with Zoe

vertigo - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/09 with Tiff

TiffTiff - Lead β - 28/Feb/09 with Rich Dagnan

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/09 with Trevor

adrianjenner - Lead - Jan/09

thompson1000 - Lead - 2009

nealh - Lead - 2009

Thinker01 - 2009

Alex More - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/08

adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/08 with Kafoozalem

FrostyWebb - Lead dog - 20/Sep/08 with Thea

Julie Carroll - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Suzie

Marq - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Alan (Craggy)

Nice nice nice... crux in middle
gfoster - Lead - 23/Aug/08 with Nick Blackbeard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/08

Fantastic. Grit crack made safe. Making one of the clips felt a wee bit precarious.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Carl

trev_f - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08 with Steve Taylor

steve taylor - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/08 with Trev Ford

existing debt - 2nd - 21/May/08 with Iain a

a few rests
rd20 - Lead - 11/May/08 with Adam

jbulger - Lead dog - 10/May/08 with Chris Mock

al99 - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Al Benson

omniscient_penguin - TR RP - 26/Apr/08 with Jimbo

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead - 24/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jan/08

nawface - Lead - 2008

jl - Lead dog - 17/Dec/07 with Brad

givemetea - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07 with Hannah Heywood

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Oct/07

Hidden - TR - 06/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Aug/07

Dorset - 2nd - Aug/07

felt pretty tough for 6a. Strenuous overhanging section of the crack. Would probably go clean with some working.
Quiddity - Lead dog - 09/Jun/07 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead dog - 07/Jun/07

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 29/May/07 with Lisa Paling

Hidden - TR - 26/May/07

MontyH - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with pete frost

Luke Marsden - Lead O/S - May/07 with Jonathan Plumridge

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/07

Darragh - Apr/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

feeko - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2007

onlytovey - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Ian Broome - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/06 with Simon

givemetea - Lead O/S - Nov/06 with Gill Dibben

Mark Kemball - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06 with Tony Shaw

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Oct/06

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with Floris

Clip took a bit of courage, otherwise straightforward and pleasant.
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Jill

finchelata - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/06 with Yvan

jimjimmyjimjim - Lead dog - 29/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/06

thomb - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Harry

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/06

really good climb. took a fooking massive fall on it (20ft+) me bein an idiot going for an onsight
fybcorp - Lead - 30/Apr/06 with mike hayes

timharrison - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Tim

Will get it
nugski - Lead dog - 17/Apr/06 with sash

Morgan Woods - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Matt

cmsg - Lead dog - 2006

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

Boy - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 2006 with Ed Heslam

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Oct/05

Hidden - Lead - 09/Oct/05

Rob in a Field - Lead - Oct/05

lukea - Lead O/S - Oct/05 with Joe WM

MikeC59 - Lead - 29/May/05

Wilbur - Lead RP - 01/May/05 with Caine

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/05

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 2005

chrisbevins - 2005

bigie bob - Lead O/S - Sep/04

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Ben Cheek

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/04 with Wilbur

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/04

KH - Lead β - 29/Jun/03

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 06/May/03 with Ben Merryfield

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 05/May/03 with Luisa Giles

furry - Lead O/S - 04/May/03 with Phil B

Hidden - Lead β - Apr/03

aged_ape - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with Simon Oliver

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/02

Mark A Humphries - Lead RP - 16/Feb/02 with dean howard

Hidden - Lead - 2002

Hidden - 29/Sep/01

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/01

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Aug/01

shoulders - Lead - 30/Jul/01 with SUZANNE

Rock Fairy - Lead - Jul/01 with david

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/01

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Sep/00 with Thea & Jamie

Hidden - Lead - Jul/00

AlexD - Lead - 20/Feb/00

Richard White - 2000

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 2000

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Aug/99

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Jul/99

Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/96

rob.grafton - Lead - 09/Jun/96 with Bruce

Roget - Lead O/S - 09/May/96 with jon

Kevster - 1996

rob.grafton - Lead - 29/May/95 with Bruce

Hidden - Lead - 17/Apr/95

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 11/Apr/94 with Perric Crellin

MoWalker3 - 01/Jan/93 with Joe

Nigel Coe - Lead - 05/Dec/92 with Gordon Jenkin

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Rich2002, Rich153, Graham Booth, Hidden, shaws, Hidden, joshchalke, jameswhitty, Graham C, Jeremy Crampin, ahaynes, dan23584, Hidden, fleapitfan, stuntsbyjon, syv_k, Hidden, Rustyshanks, Warren Earle

Voting
Total votes cast 179
hard 6a+1 of 92
6a+1 of 92
easy 6a+13 of 92
hard 6a21 of 92
6a52 of 92
easy 6a3 of 92
hard 5+1 of 92
5+0 of 92
easy 5+0 of 92
3 Stars6 of 87
2 Stars66 of 87
1 Star13 of 87
0 Stars1 of 87
Bag of .....1 of 87
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead283 of 353 (80.2%)
Followed21 of 353 (5.9%)
Toproped21 of 353 (5.9%)
Alt Leads1 of 353 (0.3%)
Unknown27 of 353 (7.6%)

'Climbed'98 of 353 (27.8%)
clean O/S149 of 353 (42.2%)
clean β14 of 353 (4.0%)
clean rpt23 of 353 (6.5%)
clean RP9 of 353 (2.5%)
dogged48 of 353 (13.6%)
dnf12 of 353 (3.4%)