Rockfax Description
One of the best bits of flowstone on Portland. Scramble easily to a high ledge to start, but gear up first. Climb the black wall to a series of incredible stuck on flakes, follow these to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 06/May/1995

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, Orange Spot Portland.

FlavioL1989 22/Nov Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 22/Nov Lead dog
with Flavio
hannesD 04/Oct Lead dnf
with adam, Markus
martin one 04/Oct Lead O/S
with Lucy
Hidden ?/Oct -
cem 26/Sep Lead O/S
tom_lewis89 04/Sep Lead O/S
with Katie Arnold
Nick Sherring 30/Aug Lead O/S

really nice, quite stiff for 6a. wet section spoiled it a little.

Phil Murray 28/Aug Lead rpt

Awesome, a great route to do, really committing crux move. Still not polished! :)

with Steve Wright
Vince 15/Aug Lead rpt
with Mick Duffield
Ed Houghton 09/Aug Lead dog

Awesome climb, sharp hold at the crux made me fall. Grab it in the right place and all is swell. Like many things...

Hidden 03/Aug 2nd dog
hervenuttall ?/Aug Lead O/S

well worth it

with Doug
TomZZ 11/Jul Lead O/S
katherinesydney 05/Jul 2nd O/S

lovely - best route of the day

The Ivanator 05/Jul Lead

Good climbing, some amazing holds.

mossrug 21/Jun Lead dog

Boooo!!! Shit start.

with Rob
garda006 10/Jun Lead dog

nice challenging routes with nice pockets

MrJoshua 10/Jun 2nd β
with Andy Gardiner
tsyrett 23/May Lead O/S
David Staples 30/Apr Lead rpt

Very nice flowstone

with Shane
David Staples 19/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr Lead O/S
Rupey 14/Apr Lead O/S
with alan
Chris Sansum 05/Apr Lead O/S

Had to finish up Ocean Rock as the flowstone on GWTF was soaking!

with Ruth White
bonoid 22/Mar 2nd
Gustav 22/Mar Lead dog
with Joe
Martin Bagshaw 21/Mar Lead O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
Rafal Malczyk 21/Mar TR O/S
with Martin Bagshaw
Stanners 07/Mar Lead O/S

Brilliant climb with an incredible finish on the flow stone. Took a moment before committing to the final crux.

with Andy G
Rgswarren ?/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Feb Lead β
sideshow84 21/Feb Lead O/S
poeter210 15/Feb Lead O/S
druss 15/Feb Lead dog
brian watson 14/Feb Lead rpt
with Sophie Nunn, anne marie sheppard
Sophie Nunn 14/Feb Lead rpt
with annmarie, Brian
kingborris ??/2015 -
Lorčne ?/Nov/14 Lead dog

I suspect most of the flowstone has disappeared - I remember doing this route back in May and it had felt like an easy 6a - this time it felt incredibly hard - had to traverse right then left above the last bolt because the rock was almost completely flat straight up; didn't see lots of jugs!

Gem Minihan 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
AaronBosley 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Luke Owens 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Loved the tufa!

robbo99 16/Aug/14 Lead β
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead dog
Jackwd 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Robertson, Stuart Webster
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt
EmilyElouise 06/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Tom
philhaigh 09/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Mel Dodge
ian d f 01/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Paul K
Joe W-O 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
bigie bob 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Michael Aylen 25/May/14 Lead RP

1 redpoint

with Macca
professorcobra 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
danimal88 ?/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with charlie
elyben 26/Oct/13 Lead
cameron_hall 26/Oct/13 Lead O/S
magsb 04/Oct/13 2nd
with John Roberts
dom94 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S


with Sam Huguet
eckleysam 07/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Robert
Mike W 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
rd20 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Legs 06/Aug/13 TR rpt
cathymiller 13/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Maxim2023 ?/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Kate Tarrant
kate tarrant ?/Jul/13 TR dnf
Jonathan Emett 25/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with tomski
m.alexander ?/May/13 Lead
jonbwoy ??/2013 -
mrmattwright 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Bouldery initial move, then excellent varied climbing to what feels like quite a wild finish. Turned my whole outlook on Portland around. Great route.

with Alex Palmer
tobydunford 17/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
Graham Westbrook 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S
David Staples ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
popov86 20/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
SenorVivo 04/Jun/12 2nd
TiffTiff 31/May/12 Lead RP
with Sam Leach
tomshanti 27/May/12 Lead β

really good route,lovely climbing

bradfry 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Really nice climb. First move makes you think it gonna be tricky but it's jugs all the way thereafter.

philhaigh 22/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
afrosam 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Paul Bowen 12/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
adamjeffs 05/May/12 Lead O/S
philhaigh 04/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb! 3 stars

nataliehaigh 04/Apr/12 2nd dog
with Tobbie Hellsing, Gem Minihan, Phil Haigh
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 TR
gibsond 31/Mar/12 Lead rpt

No tendon popping this time!

Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead β
s.c.white 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Jonathan Fuller
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
AlexD 02/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Helen, Alice
Hidden 02/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead rpt
btc 21/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Gabby
matt perks ??/2012 -
Duncan Turner 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with stu
Adam_42 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Best route of the day. Found getting established on the wall was the hardest part. After that it's a juggy romp.

with Chris Clarke, Xander Cary
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Danny Crump 23/Oct/11 Lead
risby 16/Oct/11 TR dnf

I was all over the place on this. Difficulty after about fifteen feet made me shoot up trad route flake on left then started traversing right and fell. Made it to roof but exhausted and couldn't complete.

conorjclarke 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

6a+ in book?

with Rhona Barr
gibsond 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Oliver Sherman 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Deniz Sumengen
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
timreynolds 18/Sep/11 Lead dog


mikehenesy 18/Sep/11 Lead dog
with Tim Reynolds
rjshade 28/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead RP
Legs 30/Jul/11 Lead β

Probably the best climb of the day on some awesome flow stone features. Nailed it on the first attempt.

with Simon O'Hara, Macca
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
will_benfold 24/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Miles
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
coneco 24/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Majid
Jonathan Emett 12/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
Lyndsay Superclimber 12/Jul/11 Lead RP

Lost the on sight a couple of days ago as was tired after trying to do a 7a (obviously failed!). Lead it straight off as a warm up today though :-)

Jonathan Emett 10/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
TiffTiff 09/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Grace
Jonathan Emett 07/Jul/11 Lead rpt

what a fantastic climb, I had completely forgotten how good this is. 3 stars for me.

Cheese Monkey 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb on solid flowstone. Big jug exactly where you want it.

georgeous ?/Jul/11 Lead dog
dh4096 ?/Jul/11 TR dnf
cayteye 30/Jun/11 Lead β
with stephen pearson
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead dog
Curly Rich 26/Jun/11 Lead β
with Anna, Ollie
Ross.Cooper 24/Jun/11 Lead dog

Would have been clean if not for sticking my hand in big wet patch near top and unable to re-chalk :(

with Tom Sturgeon
Sophie Nunn 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ben
gidmord 15/May/11 TR dog

Very tired, end of the day

with Tom Horton
vertigo 01/May/11 Lead β

Really good. Hardest at the start but interesting all the way. Worth waiting for it to be dry(ish).

Ben Harper 01/May/11 Lead RP
hotfeet 23/Apr/11 -
Hidden 03/Apr/11 TR β
natalio 03/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Eric
pelvoux 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Very wet 2 bolts from the top so traverse right and come back in for the last bolt

with Jon
Spacetourist ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Rosea Day ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
brian watson 09/Jan/11 Lead rpt
with anne marie sheppard
patsaunders ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
wi11 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Gee
lewiz 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Raff
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
benscarter 25/Sep/10 Lead RP
with Simon Forman
clukins 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Steve13 18/Sep/10 Lead β
Claire S-J 15/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tomB 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Juliette
Jonathan Emett 13/Aug/10 Lead
with ben
benscarter 13/Aug/10 2nd dog

Really pissed not to have got this one clean on lead. Fantastic start on beautiful flowstone, but really struggled for the second to last bolt on a pretty tight crimp and eventually backed off. Even on top rope still couldn't clean it. Back next week I guess!

riddle 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Good climb with great features.

with Yasmina
steve taylor 30/May/10 -
with Steve Williams
John Tanner 26/May/10 Lead O/S
benthfc ?/Mar/10 Lead dog
with Tim
luke2442 ??/2010 -
drysori ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 31/Oct/09 2nd dog
green_bhind_da_ears 25/Oct/09 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Oct/09 2nd O/S
mattcyp88 24/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Think I tweaked my right ring finger slightly on the first move.

with Grace Chuchla, Ian Faulkner
ian d f 24/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Grace Chuchla, Matt
Pete Scott 29/Sep/09 Lead O/S

pretty nice, climbed up to the ledge right by the first bolt to belay.

Alex More 27/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with keiha
KDhruev 27/Sep/09 Lead β
drewclimber 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with gordon
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead rpt
sonic46 06/Sep/09 2nd dnf
with Danny & Stu
matthewjames 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Ghee
jbulger 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead
nblackbeard 29/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Matt Bennett ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
breed 08/Jan/09 Lead O/S
John Southworth 03/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Jakubowski
adrianjenner ?/Jan/09 Lead
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Thinker01 ??/2009 -
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
trev_f 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
KarlH 30/Aug/08 Lead β
Hidden 17/Aug/08 2nd
LC ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead dog
Julia Chatterton 14/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Lost all my energy and couldn't make the last clip, have to come back for this one...

with Will
jl 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Penny
givemetea 11/May/08 Lead O/S
pennyb 11/May/08 TR
with Jon
Hidden 11/May/08 Lead O/S
al99 03/May/08 Lead O/S
martinazando 03/May/08 2nd dog
WillMclennan ?/May/08 Lead dog
Ed Babs 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with John Vet
lyneux 26/Apr/08 Lead dog

Final roof not as scary as it looks - just go for it!

with Susan Vittery
Neil Tucker ?/Apr/08 2nd
with Andras Pinter
nblackbeard 09/Feb/08 Lead rpt
gfoster 09/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Love Love Love

joshwales ??/2008 Lead rpt
Kevster ??/2008 -
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Jonathan Emett 21/Dec/07 TR
Topsy Turvy 21/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Topsy Turvy 21/Dec/07 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Nikki
MontyH 13/Oct/07 Lead O/S

another great route.

with Paul Milton
Vince 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Isabel Benzel
Owen W-G 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Max
climbingpixie 26/May/07 Lead dnf
with Cider nut
Luke Marsden ?/May/07 Lead RP
with Jonathan Plumridge
jw231 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
nblackbeard ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
keefe 31/Mar/07 Lead
with Tansy
Matt Shepherd 20/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
mrtom ??/2007 Lead dog
with Roger HSmith
onlytovey ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 26/Oct/06 Lead rpt
with Tim
timharrison 26/Oct/06 2nd
sam coward 15/Oct/06 Lead dog
with Tim
givemetea ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Tony Yates
Richard Horn 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Alex Been ?/Jul/06 Lead β
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Floris
Dorset ?/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Joe Marsh 29/Apr/06 Lead dog
with Andre
chris sm 08/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
viking ?/Apr/06 Lead β
Billg 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Bowen
django ?/Jan/06 2nd
with Rob Snell
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Peter Swift ??/2006 TR dog
with Trevor
Peter Swift ??/2006 TR dog
with sue
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 15/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 12/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunford
tobydunford 15/Aug/05 Lead β
with Dom Sellers
ASchwirtz 17/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Shona D'arcy
lost.arrow 19/Jun/05 -
Wilbur 05/Jun/05 Lead O/S

lovely route

with Caine
Sami Mandeel ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Matt Sampson
richardr ?/Jun/05 -
timharrison ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Abi Marchent
Hidden 19/Mar/05 Lead rpt
Derek Furze ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 04/Apr/04 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Nigel Baker
Hidden 10/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/02 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 16/Feb/02 Lead O/S
with dean howard
gonggashan ??/2002 2nd
with Johanna Shiu
migs493 07/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead
shoulders 08/Oct/00 Lead
with pete lewis
AlexD 19/Mar/00 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 -
MoWalker3 01/Jan/93 -
with Joe
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dsefton1403, AshleyLong, James Yearsley, Ed Houghton, Hidden, Hidden, georgel, Mellotron, mop449, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, Hidden, Louise Hall, Rassapotimus, Hidden, kateg2009, Jaime Mitchell, joshchalke, jameswhitty, Hidden, Hidden, Jeremy Crampin, Hidden, Ash85, ahaynes, Andreas.Klaedtke, Hidden, fleapitfan, Hidden, jeanjacquescarnages, Ezy Ryder, Warren Earle, Debs1, jamespilgrim, clipskipper
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 91
Votes cast 89
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set