UKC

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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

22m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the black wall to a series of incredible stuck-on flakes and follow these to the top. A fine pitch on remarkable rock. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 06/May/1995.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Gwenland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , UK Flowstone , Work you fucking piece of shit , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
afshapes 25 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Improbable looking top but totally doable
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Improbable looking top but totally doable
FabioM 15 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Super route. Amazing flowstones. Quite pumpy. It has a big feel to it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Super route. Amazing flowstones. Quite pumpy. It has a big feel to it.
viking 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: brilliant route - very atmospheric and nice moves
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: brilliant route - very atmospheric and nice moves
Furzy Sleight 11 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Yes, very good route, 100% flowstone - approach is hardly like the one to Cloggy is it?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes, very good route, 100% flowstone - approach is hardly like the one to Cloggy is it?
Phil Murray 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, glad i read the comments here first! I was also feeling defeated at the crux but had faith and got the flash! VERY worthwhile if you like flowstone that isn't polished (yet).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, glad i read the comments here first! I was also feeling defeated at the crux but had faith and got the flash! VERY worthwhile if you like flowstone that isn't polished (yet).
Sami Mandeel 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'd say it's probably more straightforward approaching this from Blacknor South. It may still be worth wearing trousers as there are plenty of nettles and brambles about. Great climb on good quality flowstone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd say it's probably more straightforward approaching this from Blacknor South. It may still be worth wearing trousers as there are plenty of nettles and brambles about. Great climb on good quality flowstone.
Wilbur 22 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: You HAVE to do this route - it's a bit of an effort to get to but well worth it. Was chuffed with the onsight after contemplating failure on the crux! You can also then do Monsoon Malabar and Pregnant Pause for a quality day's climbing with no-one about...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You HAVE to do this route - it's a bit of an effort to get to but well worth it. Was chuffed with the onsight after contemplating failure on the crux! You can also then do Monsoon Malabar and Pregnant Pause for a quality day's climbing with no-one about...
Chris Shorter 2 Oct, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best bits of flowstone on Portland, only its inaccessibility prevents it from having queues on it. The hardest bits are leaving the belay ledge and pinching up the tufa pipe at the top; have faith, there are jugs above!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best bits of flowstone on Portland, only its inaccessibility prevents it from having queues on it. The hardest bits are leaving the belay ledge and pinching up the tufa pipe at the top; have faith, there are jugs above!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 128
Votes cast 126
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Underage

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)

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