Rockfax Description
The long crack is a good route. Start at a boulder on the path. Climb the lower wall to below a long flake-crack. Climb the accommodating crack to a tricky bulge at its end. Finish up a perplexing groove in the headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 13/Aug/1995

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

onlyfoddington 10/Jan TR dog

Failed one move from the top

with Ian
ian d f 10/Jan Lead O/S
Alkis 25/Oct/15 Lead β
London Luke ?/Oct/15 Lead
JoeE 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy! Tricky final move.

with Marc Griffiths
Tru 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
tash 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Good route, though tricky top!

with ali k
samparsons 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
zakbentley 29/May/15 TR dog
Hidden 29/May/15 Lead O/S
JUSTADUDE 26/May/15 Lead rpt

Best climb I've had in a while, forgot how nice the movement was

philhaigh 25/May/15 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
David Staples 25/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/May/15 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 26/Apr/15 Lead dog

Fell off at the top. Smear gave way. Gutted!

martin one 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Markus
philhaigh 04/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Gem Minihan
Hidden 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Giles Davis 28/Sep/14 TR O/S

Really nice route, not sure why I didn't lead it.

Hidden 28/Sep/14 -
Charlotteking 07/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Awesome climb! Fell off right at the top. I can do the move- I slipped off today in the heat so I might wait until a cooler day!

with Tom
will black 24/Aug/14 Lead β

Great route, easy up until the end.

Alex Norman 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Will and Dan
Hannah Brading 23/Aug/14 2nd RP
Chris Sansum 23/Aug/14 TR O/S

On top rope at the end of the day.

with Ramsey Villanueva
Hidden 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigdrew 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
nacnud 09/Aug/14 Lead
with Ed Ratcliffe
Gem Minihan 14/Jul/14 TR O/S
with Steve Hau, Shamina Kapadia, Phil Haigh
pymn nice but dim 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

cool lower half, roof into pockets followed by great flake cruxy last move

JUSTADUDE 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt

So good I had to do it again =]

with Pymn
JUSTADUDE 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Amazing climb. Nice and varied, easy to flow from move to move.

dbrooks 25/May/14 Lead O/S

great crack climb, loved it!

with John
AlexD 05/May/14 Lead rpt
with Ed
ThomasB ?/May/14 Lead O/S
BenL 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
RKirke 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
ian caton 16/Mar/14 Lead β
with Abi
Abi Chard 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Ian
Luke Dawson 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Cat Hendrie 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
sarpedon 08/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Great warm-up.

Hidden 07/Mar/14 Lead
josh Bamsey 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S

amazing climb

sarpedon 01/Mar/14 Lead dog

Last climb, held on to the quickdraw at the anchors to clip. Tough finish, amazing route.

Monkeyboy ??/2014 Lead dog
trev_f 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 20/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead rpt
nataliehaigh 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Mel Dodge, Phil Haigh
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
skunky456 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
taff raymond 11/May/13 TR O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 23/Apr/13 Lead RP
Anastasia 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
dan gibson 19/Apr/13 Lead rpt
DorsetGareth 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant! But a tricky finish.

tsyrett 01/Apr/13 TR O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Joe Innes 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
burto 20/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with steve
Beefy Bert ??/2013 Lead O/S
Jobbo 28/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Leon. D
philhaigh 27/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
ian caton 27/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Abi
andrew hammond 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Brian H 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Andrew Hammond
LeahJamie 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ian Bell
Hidden 18/Aug/12 Lead RP
Ian Bell 18/Aug/12 Lead β

Warm up repeat

with Leah
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Linc 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jordon Fleming 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with matt
rustaldo 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Mostly easy with a tricky last move at the top. Felt soft for the grade.

Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Ali.B 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Last pitch where it really kicks in, not helped by missing/reduced handhold, consequently, it should be bumped up a grade.

lucachitara 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good fun, not more than 6a+. Last move is brilliant.

Tomar 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Marti999 06/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Marti999 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Marti999 24/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jan/12 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett 23/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with toby
Toby Dunn 23/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet
Dan_Carroll 07/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Mateusz
rowanrs 16/Oct/11 Lead dog

Easy up to last move. Still need to work on stamina over the longer pitches alot though.

with Ali Graham
RFWilkie 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

6a+ max very easy climbing with a tricky finish.

Kevster 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 02/Oct/11 Lead β

Nice route, lead once before 2 or 3 years ago. Felt much easier this time. Couple of hard moves at the top but the rest is easy. Overhanging flake part is thuggy and fun.

with Eva
dannyboy83 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dougie
dswansonlow 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
tomB 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jody
dan gibson 22/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
Julie Carroll 21/Sep/11 Lead β
with Dan Gibson
Hidden 21/Aug/11 TR
lewiz 30/Jul/11 Lead

Not quite OS due to grabbing a bolt after fumbling trying to clip. Wish I'd known the top was easy to grab :(

kirsten 30/Jul/11 2nd

3/4 of it!

Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dog
Owen W-G 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Moves from the final bolt to LO is nails. Crucial hold was wobbling so palmed mostly. Sketchy final clip.

with Jim
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead
ekaterina sigida 17/Apr/11 2nd

the last rout of the day - absolutely amaizing in the sunset. Amaizing guggy flake most of the way up with a rediculously blank top that i couldn't really do.

with rob daughtery
LeahJamie 09/Apr/11 Lead
with Ian Bell
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
Saurus 27/Mar/11 2nd dog

Stunning route, just ran out of steam topping out of the slightly overhung/steep flake - stunning layback climbing leading to an airy, precarious, balancy, committing, finish (with a potentially looonng fall if you don't stick it!).

barfani chita 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Saurus
wi11 17/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Nat
Alex More 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Ed babs
Jonathan Emett 05/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Paul
La Mont 30/Jan/11 Lead rpt
drysori 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Brian H 09/Jan/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hawkscry ??/2011 -
jacobjlloyd 10/Nov/10 Lead β
with Dougie
dswansonlow 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
mlg678 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with crispin
Justin T 19/Sep/10 Lead

Draws in, grabbed draw at belay...

Hidden 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Kopinski 06/Jul/10 Lead dog
brices 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 22/May/10 Lead rpt
with Steve H
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
nacnud 17/Apr/10 Lead β
nacnud 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Marcus Boal
Hidden 15/Apr/10 Lead
natalietanzer 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ed
philhaigh 10/Apr/10 Lead RP
brian watson 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with scott titt
Hidden 30/Jan/10 TR rpt
Hidden 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
LukeyG ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead β
eugeneth 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with James V
London Luke ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Luke d 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead dog
danm 02/May/09 Lead
with Sion
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead
garywong 21/Mar/09 Lead dog

Had to rest before very last move... annoyed, but fun route.

Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead β
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
GarethHall 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
vertigo 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
Ed Babs 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
BenNorman ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with kev norman
schof 04/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with joel perry
Paz 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S


with WG
Hidden 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
John Marsland 25/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Goi
goi.ashmore 25/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Really good romp!

with John Marsland
Graham Westbrook ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Rik Dawes ??/2008 Lead O/S
Spacetourist ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
sam_cox ?/Dec/07 Lead
tobydunford 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead RP
ecowaller 17/Mar/07 Lead
with Paula
ASchwirtz 10/Mar/07 Lead dnf

last move stopped me

Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Olivia Hartnett ??/2007 TR dog

One rest before top move

with Rob Gates
Hidden 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/06 -
Hidden 07/May/06 Lead O/S
Jus ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
bigie bob 29/Jan/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Derek Furze ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 22/Mar/03 Lead β
with dean howard
John Southworth 15/Feb/03 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
Billg ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/01 Lead O/S
AlexD 21/Apr/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Emma-Louise Anderson, A Downing
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set