Rockfax Description
The long crack is a good route. Start at a boulder on the path. Climb the lower wall to below a long flake-crack. Climb the accommodating crack to a tricky bulge at its end. Finish up a perplexing groove in the headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 13/Aug/1995

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Alkis 25/Oct Lead β
JoeE 19/Sep Lead O/S

Pumpy! Tricky final move.

with Marc Griffiths
Tru 01/Aug Lead O/S
tash 25/Jul Lead O/S

Good route, though tricky top!

with ali k
samparsons 23/Jun Lead O/S
zakbentley 29/May TR dog
Hidden 29/May Lead O/S
JUSTADUDE 26/May Lead rpt

Best climb I've had in a while, forgot how nice the movement was

philhaigh 25/May Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
David Staples 25/May Lead rpt
Hidden 09/May Lead dog
Hidden 26/Apr Lead O/S
David Staples 26/Apr Lead dog

Fell off at the top. Smear gave way. Gutted!

martin one 19/Apr 2nd O/S
with Markus
philhaigh 04/Apr Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Gem Minihan
Hidden 15/Mar Lead O/S
Giles Davis 28/Sep/14 TR O/S

Really nice route, not sure why I didn't lead it.

Hidden 28/Sep/14 -
Charlotteking 07/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Awesome climb! Fell off right at the top. I can do the move- I slipped off today in the heat so I might wait until a cooler day!

with Tom
will black 24/Aug/14 Lead β

Great route, easy up until the end.

Alex Norman 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Will and Dan
Hannah Brading 23/Aug/14 2nd RP
Chris Sansum 23/Aug/14 TR O/S

On top rope at the end of the day.

with Ramsey Villanueva
Hidden 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigdrew 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
nacnud 09/Aug/14 Lead
with Ed Ratcliffe
Gem Minihan 14/Jul/14 TR O/S
with Steve Hau, Shamina Kapadia, Phil Haigh
pymn nice but dim 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

cool lower half, roof into pockets followed by great flake cruxy last move

JUSTADUDE 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt

So good I had to do it again =]

with Pymn
JUSTADUDE 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Amazing climb. Nice and varied, easy to flow from move to move.

dbrooks 25/May/14 Lead O/S

great crack climb, loved it!

with John
AlexD 05/May/14 Lead rpt
with Ed
BenL 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
RKirke 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
ian caton 16/Mar/14 Lead β
with Abi
Abi Chard 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Ian
Luke Dawson 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Cat Hendrie 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
sarpedon 08/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Great warm-up.

Hidden 07/Mar/14 Lead
josh Bamsey 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S

amazing climb

sarpedon 01/Mar/14 Lead dog

Last climb, held on to the quickdraw at the anchors to clip. Tough finish, amazing route.

Monkeyboy ??/2014 Lead dog
trev_f 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 20/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead rpt
nataliehaigh 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Mel Dodge, Phil Haigh
Dan_F 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Good fun route steady climbing, wanted to break left but missed the line.. Still good route used the mono to clip the lower off ...

with Ben jones, Markmclimby
skunky456 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
taff raymond 11/May/13 TR O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 23/Apr/13 Lead RP
Anastasia 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
dan gibson 19/Apr/13 Lead rpt
DorsetGareth 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant! But a tricky finish.

tsyrett 01/Apr/13 TR O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Joe Innes 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
burto 20/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with steve
Beefy Bert ??/2013 Lead O/S
Jobbo 28/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Leon. D
philhaigh 27/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
ian caton 27/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Abi
andrew hammond 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Brian H 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Andrew Hammond
LeahJamie 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ian Bell
Hidden 18/Aug/12 Lead RP
Ian Bell 18/Aug/12 Lead β

Warm up repeat

with Leah
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Linc 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jordon Fleming 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with matt
rustaldo 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Mostly easy with a tricky last move at the top. Felt soft for the grade.

Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Ali.B 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Last pitch where it really kicks in, not helped by missing/reduced handhold, consequently, it should be bumped up a grade.

lucachitara 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good fun, not more than 6a+. Last move is brilliant.

Tomar 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Marti999 06/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Marti999 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Marti999 24/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jan/12 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett 23/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with toby
Toby Dunn 23/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet
Dan_Carroll 07/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Mateusz
rowanrs 16/Oct/11 Lead dog

Easy up to last move. Still need to work on stamina over the longer pitches alot though.

with Ali Graham
RFWilkie 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

6a+ max very easy climbing with a tricky finish.

Kevster 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 02/Oct/11 Lead β

Nice route, lead once before 2 or 3 years ago. Felt much easier this time. Couple of hard moves at the top but the rest is easy. Overhanging flake part is thuggy and fun.

with Eva
dannyboy83 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dougie
dswansonlow 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
tomB 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jody
dan gibson 22/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
Julie Carroll 21/Sep/11 Lead β
with Dan Gibson
Hidden 21/Aug/11 TR
lewiz 30/Jul/11 Lead

Not quite OS due to grabbing a bolt after fumbling trying to clip. Wish I'd known the top was easy to grab :(

kirsten 30/Jul/11 2nd

3/4 of it!

Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dog
Owen W-G 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Moves from the final bolt to LO is nails. Crucial hold was wobbling so palmed mostly. Sketchy final clip.

with Jim
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead
ekaterina sigida 17/Apr/11 2nd

the last rout of the day - absolutely amaizing in the sunset. Amaizing guggy flake most of the way up with a rediculously blank top that i couldn't really do.

with rob daughtery
LeahJamie 09/Apr/11 Lead
with Ian Bell
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
Saurus 27/Mar/11 2nd dog

Stunning route, just ran out of steam topping out of the slightly overhung/steep flake - stunning layback climbing leading to an airy, precarious, balancy, committing, finish (with a potentially looonng fall if you don't stick it!).

barfani chita 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Saurus
wi11 17/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Nat
Alex More 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Ed babs
Jonathan Emett 05/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Paul
La Mont 30/Jan/11 Lead rpt
drysori 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Brian H 09/Jan/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hawkscry ??/2011 -
jacobjlloyd 10/Nov/10 Lead β
with Dougie
dswansonlow 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
mlg678 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with crispin
Justin T 19/Sep/10 Lead

Draws in, grabbed draw at belay...

Hidden 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Kopinski 06/Jul/10 Lead dog
brices 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 22/May/10 Lead rpt
with Steve H
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
nacnud 17/Apr/10 Lead β
nacnud 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Marcus Boal
Hidden 15/Apr/10 Lead
natalietanzer 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ed
philhaigh 10/Apr/10 Lead RP
brian watson 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with scott titt
Hidden 30/Jan/10 TR rpt
Hidden 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
LukeyG ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead β
eugeneth 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with James V
London Luke ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Luke d 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead dog
danm 02/May/09 Lead
with Sion
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead
garywong 21/Mar/09 Lead dog

Had to rest before very last move... annoyed, but fun route.

Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead β
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
GarethHall 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
vertigo 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
Ed Babs 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
BenNorman ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with kev norman
schof 04/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with joel perry
Paz 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S


with WG
Hidden 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
John Marsland 25/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Goi
goi.ashmore 25/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Really good romp!

with John Marsland
Graham Westbrook ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Rik Dawes ??/2008 Lead O/S
Spacetourist ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
sam_cox ?/Dec/07 Lead
tobydunford 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead RP
ecowaller 17/Mar/07 Lead
with Paula
ASchwirtz 10/Mar/07 Lead dnf

last move stopped me

Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Olivia Hartnett ??/2007 TR dog

One rest before top move

with Rob Gates
Hidden 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/06 -
Rob in a Field 07/May/06 Lead O/S
Jus ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
bigie bob 29/Jan/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Derek Furze ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 22/Mar/03 Lead β
with dean howard
John Southworth 15/Feb/03 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
Billg ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/01 Lead O/S
AlexD 21/Apr/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Emma-Louise Anderson, A Downing
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set