Rockfax Description
Pleasant climbing punctuated by some fairly tough moves. Start below a semi-circular cut-out above the first break. Climb to below the upper wall. Sustained climbing gains a small ledge from where one last blind move reaches easier ground and the top wall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 21/Aug/1988

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a.

Alkis 25/Oct Lead G/U

I worked out the crux on the flash and then dropped the move to the jug on the right after the next bolt. Went second go.

Hidden 30/Aug Lead RP
Nick Sherring 30/Aug Lead dog

should have sent this but faffed around too long below the blind crux move and then teh nubbin hold blew off. Worth coming back to another day though, really good varied climbing throughout

psborland 30/Aug Lead
with Nick
RosePearson 15/Aug Lead O/S

end of a long, hot day.

with Harry Fogg
Hidden 25/Jul Lead O/S
RFWilkie 25/Jul Lead O/S
AlexD 21/Jul Lead RP
with Aarron, Steve
Hidden 06/Jul TR dog
Hidden 06/Jul Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 29/May Lead O/S
with Helen
Hidden 29/May Lead O/S
JackMac 09/Apr Lead RP

Love this route. First 7a at Portland.

with Camwa, Jamie
JackMac 06/Apr Lead dog
with Gavin Alner, Adam Kent
paultaylor 22/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar TR dog
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15/Mar Lead O/S
AlexD 24/Jan Lead dog
with Sue
Bristoldave 14/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Luke
Hidden 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigdrew 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
nacnud 09/Aug/14 Lead
with Ed Ratcliffe
Gem Minihan 14/Jul/14 TR dnf
with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Phil Haigh
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead O/S
RKirke 30/Mar/14 Lead dog

I should of onsighted this but panicked after the crux and fell off the mantel move.

BenL 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
Tommyads ??/2014 -
Hidden 30/Nov/13 TR O/S
philhaigh 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S

After a week of cold and rain, a beautiful sunny day, just before we leave for Spain for the winter.. First 7a onsight: a perfect last rose of summer :) (Hurt my injured foot in the process. Totally worth it!)

lewiz 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

I'm lying. I didn't onsight as a good lookin foothold exploded. But I'm bitter as I pulled back on and continue to cruise to the top :/

shaun.yandell ?/Aug/13 TR O/S
Jonathan Emett 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with dan
DJ Nelson 25/May/13 Lead β

Happy not to blow this high up, enjoyable climbing.

Julie Carroll 18/May/13 Lead RP
with Alice
Alex More 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Mick Ward, trev
burto 20/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with steve
Ed morris 24/Feb/13 Lead β

Previously went up the first half of this and accidently linked into the 7a+ to the right, so onsighted the meat of this route once i had read the guidebook again!

with Ian
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead β
Jobbo 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 19/Aug/12 Lead RP

3rd try / first proper redpoint. Burningly hot = not good for small holds!

with Leah
Linc 11/Aug/12 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead dog
Jeronimo 24/May/12 Lead O/S
catblack 06/Apr/12 Lead β

First 7a flash. Suprised myself! Really good techinical, crimpy climbing and a hands off rest! climbed it well up to and through the crux, then fumbled my way to the top a little over excited and shakey!

Andrew Barker 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Good climbing with a tough crux.

La Mont 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tomar 11/Mar/12 Lead β

Retroflash. Good but no near as good and hard as Portland heights

Toby Dunn 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Lyndsay Hilton
tania 03/Sep/11 Lead dog

first 7a red point!!! awesome climb... tho that old bolt by the crux need to be removed... too tempting not to use it!!! bugger...

with andrea
Hidden 03/Sep/11 -
Ian Bell 20/Aug/11 Lead dog

With the top of through the barricades. One for RP this winter. Eva put the clips in thinking it was 'Return to Roissy' - good effort!

with Eva
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead dog
John Tanner 02/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Dougie Swanson-Low
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead RP
fildac 26/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Jun/11 Lead dog
Owen W-G 09/Apr/11 Lead RP

Unexpected success on first RP attempt after barely being able to do or link moves bolt to bolt. Very hot and windless day.

with Gav
Oli 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Fred
tobydunford 03/Apr/11 Lead β
with Phil Belcher
Tomar 19/Mar/11 Lead dog

Last route of this long day. Tried to flash it before getting dark. Did the crux ok then fell off at the ledge above, didn't see the good hold. Soooo close. Awesome climbing!

matthewjames 13/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Katie Keeley
Luke Dawson 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 12/Feb/11 Lead RP
with Ivan M
Hawkscry ??/2011 -
jacobjlloyd 10/Nov/10 Lead rpt
with Dougie
dswansonlow 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
mark_wellin 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

the crux felt really difficult until i found the right hold, easy from then.. really good route!

Justin T 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/10 Lead dog
mlg678 ?/Sep/10 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead dog
willbatho 20/Aug/10 Lead dog
pie_eater_pete ?/Aug/10 Lead
brices 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
jh123 05/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
nacnud 17/Apr/10 Lead β
vertigo 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S

First 7a onsight! Classy route.

with Harry Boden
Hidden 06/Feb/10 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Feb/10 Lead β
Hidden 30/Jan/10 Lead dog
feilx 17/Jan/10 Lead rpt
with Heather
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 31/Aug/09 TR O/S
dannyboy83 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Jake
Luke d 05/Jun/09 TR O/S
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead
eddieclimb 22/May/09 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Edwards
Hidden 02/May/09 2nd β
danm 02/May/09 2nd
with Sion
irenemil 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Akin
Ed Babs 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S

first 7a onsight : )

with Mike Hawkins
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
feilx 06/Dec/08 Lead rpt
with Rich Dagner
schof 06/Dec/08 Lead RP
with mike hawkins
Dave Rumney 12/Oct/08 -
with Sean Roberts
steve taylor 11/Oct/08 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Jun/08 2nd dnf
Morgan Woods 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Some great bouldery moves at the crux.

with David S
Martin Krasnansky 28/May/08 Lead O/S
feilx 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Tiff
Kevster ??/2008 -
La Mont ??/2008 -
sam_cox ?/Dec/07 Lead β
Richard Horn 21/Oct/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
dan gibson 15/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Rin
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Jus ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
lx ?/Apr/06 Lead


with ben
Billg 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Bowen
bigie bob 29/Jan/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Jane Weir 13/Nov/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/04 Lead β
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
just one more 06/Jul/03 Lead
with Svenn G
John Southworth 13/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
kp64zl ?/Jul/97 TR
Hidden 14/Apr/95 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AlexBush, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dan_F, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Mr Tumness, Hidden, kateg2009, Hidden, jameswhitty, Hidden, Arcarn, ian caton, A Downing, Siderunner, Emma-Louise Anderson, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, tobydunford
High 7a+
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High 7a
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High 6c+
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Votes cast 48
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set