Dorset > Blacknor South >
 
Turned to Stone*** 6c+

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[Turned to Stone, 1 kb]23m. One of Portland's finest routes. Some thin pocket moves and a great finish all on immaculate flowstone. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pete Oxley 22/Apr/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Photo: Turned to Stone © james f
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 149 logbooks, and on 38 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14

Graham Westbrook - Lead β - 01/Sep/14 with Gibbon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/14

Found this harder than To Wish the Impossible.
RFWilkie - Lead dog - 14/Jun/14

SandyJJS - Lead dog - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Mar/14

BenL - Lead RP - 26/Mar/14 with Ben Corbey, Josh Bamsey

Hidden - Lead RP - 29/Sep/13

mrteale - Lead dog - 26/Sep/13

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/13 with Shamina Kapadia

Injured so could only use heel and outside edge of right foot. In Barry's words - 'like watching a 3-legged dog'. Painful!
philhaigh - 2nd dog - 10/Sep/13 with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge

Barry Kerslake - Lead RP - 10/Sep/13 with Shamina Kapadia, Phil Haigh, Mel

lewiz - Lead dog - 26/Aug/13

redjerry - TR O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Danny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13

Route was very dirty and is a bit unbalanced with one hard move around a 6b route.
DDDD - Lead dog - 13/Jul/13 with Sham

dan gibson - Lead RP - 10/Jul/13

adamjeffs - Lead dog - 05/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/13

mop449 - Lead RP - 21/Jun/13 with John Beesley

One to revisit.
JackMac - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/13 with EllisButlerBarker

Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with JackMac

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Rachel Takacs

One desperate move leading to solid finish on flowstone.
Qisheng Xie - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Aaron Clifford

V good. Just persevere on the couple of hard moves, you're back on jugs v soon.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Kate

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13 with ben harding

Dan_Carroll - Lead dog - 31/Mar/13 with Iain

DP1977 - Lead dog - 2013 with Jon Harris

nice climb. after crux gets juggier and juggier. potential for clean ascent.
jackappleby - Lead dog - 11/Nov/12

DannyK - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/12 with chrislgk, Katie

DannyK - Lead RP - 14/Sep/12 with chrislgk, Katie

One of the best sports routes I've done.
ANC - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/12 with Andy Schofield

schof - Lead RP - 11/Sep/12 with Angus

DannyK - Lead dog - 09/Sep/12 with Katie

DannyK - TR rpt - 09/Sep/12 with Katie

skhill - Lead β - 04/Sep/12

mark20 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/12

Found the crux suprisingly tough
TommityP - Lead RP - 23/Aug/12

EmilyElouise - 2nd RP - 23/Aug/12

tough onsight, felt harder than 6c+, didn't feel much easier than englands dreaming
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Mo, John Salmon

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012.
joe1joe1joe2 - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12

philhaigh - Lead dog - 06/Jun/12 with Mel Dodge, Eddy Young, Rob Kennard

lucachitara - Lead dog - 04/Jun/12

Jay81 - Lead β - 13/May/12 with david

I beat the rain to grab this ascent
Martin Cleaver - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Alek

To be continued... I didn't beat the rain
alek - Lead dog - 21/Apr/12 with Martin Cleaver

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/12

Good with a tough crux.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12 with Cat Black

Rupey - Lead β - Apr/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Mar/12

1st redpoint. Very good
Tomar - Lead RP - 10/Mar/12 with Ross Davidson

burto - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/12 with steve

matt perks - 2012

Sophie Nunn - Lead dnf - 16/Oct/11 with Jon Emmet, Toby

Sophie Nunn - TR dog - 16/Oct/11 with Jon Emmet, Toby

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Sophie Nunn

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Sep/11

Hidden - 14/Aug/11

couldn't link, need to come back after some stamina training.
Seb Lee - Lead dog - 11/Jun/11 with Angus Girlspie

pleased with this, nice
robertmichaeladams - Lead - 10/Jun/11 with Andi

Sparky!!!3 - TR dog - 25/May/11

Kopinski - Lead β - 25/May/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 14/May/11

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 01/May/11 with Ivan M

brian watson - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Pete Frost, Paul Milton

JPGR - 10/Apr/11

finally came back to get this clean. on a hangover.
thomb - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/11 with Maddy, Darren

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

JasTaplin - TR β - 13/Mar/11 with Jonathan Wells

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/10

Joe Grondowski - Lead - 05/Sep/10 with Andy Grondowski

Superb! Skin was killing me on the bottom half which is quite thin (but gives fantastic, quite steep climbing). Top half is much steadier but gives the most flowing climbing I've done in portland, beauty!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Dunken

JKay - Lead - 02/Aug/10 with Pete Scott

Hidden - TR dnf - Aug/10

harry40740 - 2nd - 26/May/10

vertigo - Lead RP - 18/Apr/10 with Ben Harper

Ben Harper - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/10 with Richard Dagan

SuseH - TR dog - 21/Feb/10 with Iain

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10

Hidden - 2010

ian1234567 - Lead β - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

feilx - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Heather

Hidden - TR dog - 11/Oct/09

givemetea - 2nd β - 10/Oct/09 with Hannah Heywood

Attempted onsight, it's the usual flowstone thing of quite a hard to read crux though. Got it 1st redpoint.
Quiddity - Lead RP - 10/Oct/09 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/09

brilliant
Luke d - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09

wolverine - 26/Jul/09 with Paul Latham

Ed Babs - Lead RP - 19/Jul/09 with Harry

Tough crux but great route.
Morgan Woods - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with David S

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jun/09

tobydunford - Lead β - 06/Jun/09 with Sarah Wysling

In the evning when i arrived
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09

Jane Weir - Lead - 2009

nealh - Lead - 2009

Alex More - Lead dog - 2009 with Sparky

Alex More - Lead dog - 2009 with Sparky

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Dec/08

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/08 with Ben Harper

1st RP (went wrong way on the flash, but it's damn hard ftg).
Paz - Lead RP - 02/Aug/08 with WG

Matt Bennett - Lead RP - 20/Jul/08

Bob Loblaw - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/08 with Tim Nicholson

dominic lee - Lead - Jun/08 with andy elliot

Ian Broome - Lead rpt - 10/May/08 with Tanya

Hidden - Lead β - 2008

Dogged, must return to this awesome climb and take it clean!
thomb - Lead dog - 2008 with Jo

Richard Horn - Lead RP - 21/Oct/07

nblackbeard - Lead dog - 20/Oct/07

Three rests no falls. Nice climb, very pumpy
gfoster - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/07 with James Witlock

jw231 - Lead RP - 20/Oct/07 with nblackbeard

jw231 - Lead dog - 17/Oct/07 with nblackbeard

nblackbeard - TR dog - 17/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd dog - May/07

Jus - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

onlytovey - 2007

really quality, one to do next time
Ian Broome - Lead dog - 05/Nov/06 with Simon

One fall, but I'd not got enough strength left to get back on for the redpoint.
Mark Kemball - Lead dog - 15/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Aug/06

bigie bob - Lead RP - 06/May/06

Hidden - Lead - May/06

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/May/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Jun/04

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/03 with Alice Howe

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/May/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/01

Billg - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/01

Richard White - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/99

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Mar/99

Hidden - Lead RP - 1998

Simon cook - 1998

John Southworth - Lead O/S - May/97

phardman - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/97

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Apr/96

Kevster - Lead - 1996

Roget - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/95 with jon

Hidden - 16/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/95

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, josh Bamsey, Rich2002, JonmapDL, neitsroth, strudles, Hidden, Hidden, Pete Dangerous, theloringharvey, Hidden, J1_TOV, JackMac, Mr Tumness, Hidden, Hidden, Jaime Mitchell, jameswhitty, Dean177, Hidden, RFWilkie, Hidden, Owen W-G, cmb621, Aeneas, Siderunner, Sparky!!!3, Hidden, RockSteady, Peterjuliandawson, Hidden, Quiddity, Ezy Ryder, nblackbeard, onlytovey, Hidden, Hidden, J/mie

Voting
Total votes cast 111
hard 7a1 of 58
7a0 of 58
easy 7a2 of 58
hard 6c+8 of 58
6c+40 of 58
easy 6c+4 of 58
hard 6c3 of 58
6c0 of 58
easy 6c0 of 58
3 Stars52 of 53
2 Stars1 of 53
1 Star0 of 53
0 Stars0 of 53
Bag of .....0 of 53
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Style of ascent

Lead120 of 149 (80.5%)
Followed7 of 149 (4.7%)
Toproped9 of 149 (6.0%)
Alt Leads1 of 149 (0.7%)
Unknown12 of 149 (8.1%)

'Climbed'29 of 149 (19.5%)
clean O/S43 of 149 (28.9%)
clean β10 of 149 (6.7%)
clean rpt8 of 149 (5.4%)
clean RP25 of 149 (16.8%)
dogged30 of 149 (20.1%)
dnf4 of 149 (2.7%)