Rockfax Description
One of Portland's finest routes. Some thin pocket moves and a great finish all on immaculate flowstone. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 22/Apr/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Martin Bagshaw 06/Sep Lead dog

Crux took a little working out, not far from pulling through the first time round though.

Tom Hudson
Dizz 09/Aug 2nd

Got all the moves ... hard!

Steve thorpe
AlexD 21/Jul Lead dog

Bit of a blind reach at crux, needed beta!

hankyc 13/Jul Lead O/S

another cracking flowstone outing

Robheirene 04/Jul Lead dog

Fell on the thin crux section when I missed the 2 finger pocket (no chalk surprisingly), onsighted the rest. Amazing climbing after the crux.

hervenuttall ?/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun Lead β
SDM 28/Jun Lead
Duncan, Michael
rajeshwarbisht 28/Jun Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Jun TR
David Staples 24/Jun TR dog
David Staples 24/Jun TR RP
Didymus 13/Jun Lead dog

bad week at office

AJM 07/Jun Lead RP

Mucked up the crux first go.

dbrooks 30/May Lead dog

Felt hard although was at the end of a long day... One to come back for

Hidden 20/Apr -
Gem Minihan 05/Oct/14 TR dog
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 01/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Joe W-O 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

Found this harder than To Wish the Impossible.

SandyJJS 13/Apr/14 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead rpt
BenL 26/Mar/14 Lead RP
Ben Corbey, Josh Bamsey
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead RP
mrteale 26/Sep/13 Lead dog
philhaigh 12/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Shamina Kapadia
philhaigh 10/Sep/13 2nd dog

Injured so could only use heel and outside edge of right foot. In Barry's words - 'like watching a 3-legged dog'. Painful!

Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge
Barry Kerslake 10/Sep/13 Lead RP
Shamina Kapadia, Phil Haigh, Mel
lewiz 26/Aug/13 Lead dog
redjerry 24/Aug/13 TR O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
DDDD 13/Jul/13 Lead dog

Route was very dirty and is a bit unbalanced with one hard move around a 6b route.

dan gibson 10/Jul/13 Lead RP
adamjeffs 05/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
mop449 21/Jun/13 Lead RP
JackMac 08/Jun/13 Lead dnf

One to revisit.

Ellis Butler-Barker 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

One desperate move leading to solid finish on flowstone.

John_Beesley ?/Jun/13 Lead RP

First 6c+! Great feeling to top out. Awesome pumpy crux, followed by delicate, but easy, moves on some beautiful flowstone! Perfect!

Sam Carr, Danny Gottschalk
quiffhanger 26/May/13 Lead O/S

V good. Just persevere on the couple of hard moves, you're back on jugs v soon.

Haydn Jones 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
ben harding
Dan_Carroll 31/Mar/13 Lead dog
DP1977 ??/2013 Lead dog
jackappleby 11/Nov/12 Lead dog

nice climb. after crux gets juggier and juggier. potential for clean ascent.

DannyK 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
chrislgk, Katie
DannyK 14/Sep/12 Lead RP
chrislgk, Katie
ANC 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S

One of the best sports routes I've done.

schof 11/Sep/12 Lead RP
DannyK 09/Sep/12 Lead dog
DannyK 09/Sep/12 TR rpt
skhill 04/Sep/12 Lead β
mark20 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 23/Aug/12 2nd RP
rustaldo 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

tough onsight, felt harder than 6c+, didn't feel much easier than englands dreaming

joe1joe1joe2 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012.

philhaigh 06/Jun/12 Lead dog
lucachitara 04/Jun/12 Lead dog
Jay81 13/May/12 Lead β
Martin Cleaver 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S

I beat the rain to grab this ascent

alek 21/Apr/12 Lead dog

To be continued... I didn't beat the rain

Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead
Andrew Barker 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Good with a tough crux.

Rupey ?/Apr/12 Lead β
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Tomar 10/Mar/12 Lead RP

1st redpoint. Very good

burto 09/Mar/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Sophie Nunn 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Jon Emmet, Toby
Sophie Nunn 16/Oct/11 TR dog
Jon Emmet, Toby
Toby Dunn 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Aug/11 -
Seb Lee 11/Jun/11 Lead dog

couldn't link, need to come back after some stamina training.

Angus Girlspie
robertmichaeladams 10/Jun/11 Lead

pleased with this, nice

Sparky!!!3 25/May/11 TR dog
Kopinski 25/May/11 Lead β
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead dnf
MarkRyder 01/May/11 Lead RP
Ivan M
brian watson 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Pete Frost, Paul Milton
JPGR 10/Apr/11 -
thomb 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt

finally came back to get this clean. on a hangover.

Maddy, Darren
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
JasTaplin 13/Mar/11 TR β
Luke Dawson 21/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Joe Grondowski 05/Sep/10 Lead
Andy Grondowski
Mike Goldthorp 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Superb! Skin was killing me on the bottom half which is quite thin (but gives fantastic, quite steep climbing). Top half is much steadier but gives the most flowing climbing I've done in portland, beauty!

JKay 02/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/10 TR dnf
harry40740 26/May/10 2nd
vertigo 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
Ben Harper 18/Apr/10 Lead rpt
SuseH 21/Feb/10 TR dog
Hidden 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
ian1234567 ??/2010 Lead β
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
feilx 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/09 TR dog
givemetea 10/Oct/09 2nd β
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Luke d 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S


Dave Turnbull, BMC 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Rab Carrington
Hidden 26/Jul/09 -
Ed Babs 19/Jul/09 Lead RP
Morgan Woods 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Tough crux but great route.

David S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead
tobydunford 06/Jun/09 Lead β
Sarah Wysling
Ed Booth 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S

In the evning when i arrived

Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead dog
Alex More ??/2009 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Dec/08 Lead RP
dannyboy83 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Paz 02/Aug/08 Lead RP

1st RP (went wrong way on the flash, but it's damn hard ftg).

Matt Bennett 20/Jul/08 Lead RP
Bob Loblaw 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Tim Nicholson
dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
andy elliot
Ian Broome 10/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2008 Lead β
thomb ??/2008 Lead dog

Dogged, must return to this awesome climb and take it clean!

Richard Horn 21/Oct/07 Lead RP
nblackbeard 20/Oct/07 Lead dog
gfoster 20/Oct/07 2nd dog

Three rests no falls. Nice climb, very pumpy

jw231 20/Oct/07 Lead RP
jw231 17/Oct/07 Lead dog
nblackbeard 17/Oct/07 TR dog
Hidden ?/May/07 2nd dog
Jus 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
onlytovey ??/2007 -
Ian Broome 05/Nov/06 Lead dog

really quality, one to do next time

Mark Kemball 15/Oct/06 Lead dog

One fall, but I'd not got enough strength left to get back on for the redpoint.

Hidden 05/Aug/06 Lead RP
bigie bob 06/May/06 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 25/May/05 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 -
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
just one more 03/Aug/03 Lead
tim b, Svenn G
goi.ashmore 23/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Alice Howe
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/02 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Billg 25/Feb/01 Lead O/S
Southern Mark Smith ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 01/Apr/99 2nd
Hidden 14/Mar/99 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1998 Lead RP
Simon cook ??/1998 -
John Southworth ?/May/97 Lead O/S
phardman 29/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Roget 17/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/95 -
Hidden 14/Apr/95 Lead
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set