M. Speciale*** V+
250m, 10 pitches. One of the best and most popular routes on this face. The route follows two successive black streaks. The harder upper pitches can be avoided by exiting right after pitch 5 to join the normal descent from the face.
Start near the rightmost point of the lowest horizontal break, just right of a cave a few metres higher up the face.
1) IV+, 50m. Climb a shallow crack to reach the break in the face. Climb right then back left to a good belay in a small hollow.
2) V+, 50m. Climb left to reach a small corner. Follow this then the successive corner to reach a small ledge. Move right then climb direct.
3) III+, 40m. Follow the black streak to belay before a large loose scree ledge.
4) III, 45m. Ascend the ledge aiming for the base of another black streak on the wall above. Belay just left of the streak.
5) IV, 50m. Climb a small corner on the left side of the black streak. Either avoid an overhang on the right climbing a short steep corner then continue direct, or move 5m left to follow a crack before moving diagonally right to reach the second ledge. Possible escape right here.
6) III, 35m. Climb easier ground to the left.
7) III, 35m. Continue in the same line to a belay below a steep black wall to the right of an arete.
8) V+, 50m Continue left to a black ledge by the arete, then move diagonally right up an inclined ramp to reach a steep face. Step up and climb a black bulge, then move left to reach a ledge. Follow this 10m left to belay below an overhanging crack.
9) V+, 45m. Climb the overhanging crack then continue vertically following a corner to reach a ledge.
10) II, 30m. Do not climb the crack above but instead move right and continue on easy ground to a large scree-strewn amphitheatre. © ROCKFAX

Big black water streak, protectable by countless thread runners.


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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 24 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Only climbed first five pitches (in four pitches), and then took the early escape route because of approaching showers. Led P1, P3-4.
cameron_hall - AltLd dnf - 22/Aug/14 with Chris Allan

Led first pitch and last proper pitch (over hanging corner). Pitches 1&2 and last two really good. Some rambling scree climbing in the middle.
bigbobbyking - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/14 with Chris Bull

Hidden - Aug/14

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/13 with Hannah Gibbs

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jul/13

williamsd79 - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/12 with Andy Woolston

centurion05 - AltLd O/S - Aug/12 with dyl

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/11

Peter Holder - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Becky Murray

Hidden - 2011

Started too early for weather - very cold. No feeling in hands on first 3 pitches but didnt stop me enjoying pitch 2 - thankful that threads were pro cos I saved placing much gear. Later that day we met others in C C party and competed for "who had been climbing earliest and was therefore coldest". We then found we had done the same route, and had been well up route before they started, so ya boo suchs, we win !!?
David Smith - AltLd - 29/Aug/10 with Stuart Holmes

Alessandro Tentori - 2nd O/S - Aug/10 with Luca Gasparini

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Welsh Tom

wat they said
nathanlee - 2nd β - Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/09

Lev - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/09 with Emma Ross

dominic lee - Lead - 03/Aug/09 with nathan lee

Awesome first three pitches and a cool crack at the end.
whistler - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/09 with Anna

Dunx - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Jason

Anna_wells - AltLd - Jul/09 with pete

tjekel - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/02

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hard VI-0 of 1
VI-0 of 1
easy VI-0 of 1
hard V+0 of 1
V+1 of 1
easy V+0 of 1
hard V0 of 1
V0 of 1
easy V0 of 1
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dnf