Rockfax Description
This route is situated on Torre Intra i Sass, a tower to the left of the main west face. Unlike the other routes on this face, this one has the satisfaction of a summit, and its modest length makes it a good choice in unstable weather.
Start at the left edge of the yellow face, just left of the large yellow overhang dominating the centre of the face.
1) IV+, 45m. Ascend the short ramp then climb a vertical crack. Exit left then make a short leftwards traverse to reach a short corner. Climb this and exit right to a ledge.
2) III, 30m. Climb a loose gully right then left, then pull through onto a loose ledge. Cross left to reach a small arete and a belay.
3) IV, 45m. Move right and follow a crack. Exit this then continue moving slightly back left to reach the stance.
4) III+, 30m. Climb the slab above then move diagonally right to reach a spike belay on a narrow ledge below a chimney crack.
5) IV, 30m. Climb the crack on excellent compact rock then move right on easier ground. Continue direct to a spike belay.
6) III+, 35m. Continue up the enjoyable slabby rock above. Move onto the left side of the tower's spur and continue to reach a ledge.
7) III+, 30m. Climb a crack from right to left then continue up a slab to the top of the tower. © Rockfax
FA. Cipriani, Sacco 1986 15/Jun/1986.
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Grade: IV+ ***
(Cinque Torri)