UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Start from a boulder. Pull on to the slab and then move out left and follow the bolts to the top. © Rockfax

FA. M.Bateman 1995.

Ticklists

Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
airbournegrapefruit 17 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: the start of the route is definately the hardest bit
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the start of the route is definately the hardest bit

Logged Ascents

625 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

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Voting
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
High 3a
Mid 3a
Low 3a
High 2c
Mid 2c
Low 2c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Fallen Slab

Grade: 3a ***
(Blacknor Beach)

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