Rockfax Description
A testing pitch that is rounded off by a steep and exposed finish. Move up to the right and then back left to a shallow corner below a flake. Climb the layback-flake to the horizontal break. Move leftwards through the upper flowstone bulge to a lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 08/May/1989

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland.

Hidden 02/Aug Lead
Gem Minihan 02/Aug TR dog
philhaigh 02/Aug Lead rpt
SDM 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Michael
Hidden 19/Jul Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Jul TR
robfir 11/Jul -
Sami Mandeel 09/Jul Lead dog
with Steph, Sam Ferguson
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 09/Jul 2nd
Gibbo 05/Jul Lead
with Tom Gibbison
Hidden 05/Jul Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 21/Jun Lead O/S

I reckon its a hard 6b or easy 6b+ with the crux being the first two bolts. A very, very nice climb though, thoroughly enjoyed it!

Emily93Mobley 05/Jun Lead dog
with James
Hugobristol 04/Jun Lead O/S
with Liam
Hidden 24/May Lead RP
Hidden 08/Apr Lead β
Hidden 22/Mar TR rpt
dominic lee 14/Mar -
with andy elliot
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigdrew 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
TomRiddelsdell 20/Jul/14 Lead β
Matt77 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Riddelsdell
royle883 18/Jun/14 Lead dog

Brilliant AFTER second clip

TomJ 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with TomS, Charlotte, Jon_Warner, Jenni
Jon_Warner 15/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Hothothothot... copious cursing... LOL.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni
spidermonkey09 06/Jun/14 Lead RP

Hard for the grade!

Robin Brooke ?/Jun/14 Lead

Need to trust feet in the middle section

with Artur
Robin Brooke ?/Jun/14 Lead rpt
TomRiddelsdell 30/May/14 Lead β
islandlynx 30/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd O/S
martin one 05/May/14 TR dog
with Markus
Hidden 06/Dec/13 Lead O/S
R2B 03/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Crispin
Graham Westbrook 25/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/13 Lead rpt
coneco 06/Oct/13 Lead RP
with Julie Carroll
maybe_si 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Wayne.Gaudin 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S


with Marcus
jas128 18/Sep/13 TR β
khalidq 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
nataliehaigh 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Vicky Hau, Tammy Pay
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd dog
Nick Clement 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead RP
mop449 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Gaiane de Brabanter
Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead dog
pezzerrr 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
chriswood 13/Jul/13 Lead dog
will moy 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
chrisbrown_023 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 21/Jun/13 Lead
with Will
wi11 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nat
paultaylor 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Grant
Graham Booth 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S
mattc 09/Jun/13 Lead dog

Clean to big block first go. The scared first to second bolt

with Alex
zadurrani 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

enjoyable climb

spidermonkey09 07/Jun/13 Lead dog

Pumped as hell, pitiful effort but great route.

Graham Booth 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Luke Castiglio
Luke Dawson 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Julesthe1st 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tania
Ian Bell 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Pretty hard for 6a+

with Mikael
Hidden 16/May/13 TR rpt
AlexRenshaw 06/May/13 Lead
with Shaunagh Dawes, Mike Dawes
philhaigh 05/May/13 Lead rpt
with Vicki Hau, Natalie Haigh
Rokmunky 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead β
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rupey 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with alan
Dibdawg 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
burto 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with hertha
Hidden 09/Mar/13 2nd O/S
AlexD 05/Mar/13 Lead rpt
with Debbie
Ciro 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Solly
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead O/S
mark schramm 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with Lyndsay
nblackbeard 27/Oct/12 Lead RP
drysori ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 TR dog
tomB 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Jody
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Matt Groom 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S
jonleighton 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with pep
Vince 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with jon
coneco 26/Aug/12 TR
with Peter Dickinson
Brian H 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
redjerry 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Danny
BeccaSnowden 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Hard for the grade but very cool finish

CRiddiford 27/Jul/12 Lead dog

blisteringly hot, extremely painful feet so i gave up and then finished it off

with Becca
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
tobydunford 09/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
philhaigh 08/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/12 -
Tru 06/May/12 Lead β
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
rxmac 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 05/Apr/12 TR

Will return for a crack at the lead, fingery then thuggy.

with Lee
Big Lee 05/Apr/12 Lead dog

Multiple rests/falls. Tricky mid-section.

catblack 03/Apr/12 Lead β

a bit tricky getting established in the flake

Andrew Barker 03/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Not my finest bit of climbing.

Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
lewiz 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Vlad Vishnyakov, Owen John
Abi Chard 01/Mar/12 Lead O/S
zdenek strycek 15/Jan/12 Lead
with Karolina Klos
Gareth 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden ??/2012 -
Nevil ??/2012 Lead
with Rich, Vince
Vincej ??/2012 2nd
with Nevil
Marti999 23/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Graham C 23/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Marti
Dandan82 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Ducks Rock 19/Nov/11 2nd


with lisa, Dan
tradguy 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
Jonathan Emett 19/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with daniel
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
allydonald ?/Sep/11 -
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead
jfreeman 12/Aug/11 Lead O/S
simonr 12/Aug/11 Lead β
jbulger 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
embob 01/Aug/11 Lead

Straightforward climbing but great variety of moves. The runout gave me pause for thought, but figured it must be v easy climbing. AE, FBC.

with Alex
Hidden 01/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/11 TR dog
Hidden 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S
coneco 10/Jul/11 Lead dnf
with Elli
lozowen 07/Jul/11 Lead
with J T
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Lloyders ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
gibsond 30/Jun/11 Lead RP

Good route.

Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
brian watson 11/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with neil weymouth
TonyB 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Nick
Saurus ?/Jun/11 2nd RP
Hidden 27/May/11 TR
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead dog
Lyndsay Superclimber 17/May/11 Lead RP
KDhruev 05/May/11 Lead
Kyle F 05/May/11 Lead
Jonathan Emett 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Steve Cousins
Pete Scott 29/Apr/11 Lead rpt
RFWilkie 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
J.Wells 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Billg 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead
tom106 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with robin
Robin Head 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Maidwell
Daniel ?/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
clipskipper 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

High in the grade

with Sue Hazel
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 08/Mar/11 2nd
with James the Navigator
Hidden ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
mlg678 ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Nov/10 -
Hidden 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
michael burrows 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S

clipsticked the first bolt

Lallylandslider 30/Sep/10 2nd
tania 05/Sep/10 TR
with mike
JPGR 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Yvette
jacobjacob 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
dav 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Gill B
Hidden 20/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 08/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Frederic
Tomar 07/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
bbrowne 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Kelly Atkin
bastian 25/Jun/10 Lead
timharrison 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Jo Chia
DrGav 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Polished and pumpy!

with Wendy
Phil Murray 13/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Steve Wright
Hidden 09/Jun/10 Lead rpt
mattparratt 05/Jun/10 Lead
Peterjuliandawson 03/Jun/10 TR β
Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
JKay 13/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/10 TR dog
jamespilgrim 09/May/10 Lead RP
sparkass 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with John Bent
mikeshewring 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
London Luke ?/Apr/10 Lead
trev_f 13/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Ceridwen 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Phil, Ivan
Ben Harper 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Baby A
andy jennings 07/Mar/10 Lead β
with ben
Ben Vieyra ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
jld579 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Mowglee 08/Oct/09 Lead rpt
with Jonathan Emett
dswansonlow 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Harper, Gideon Mordecai
Ian JL 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead β
eddie coughlin 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with pete skinsley
matthewjames 08/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Bashford
ilikemonkys 06/Sep/09 TR O/S
Vince 31/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with John Percy
chris sm 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Tim M 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Ed Babs 24/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Luke Marsden 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Plumridge
Hidden 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 04/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Good clibming but the runout below the bolt by the tat, was just too far for me.

with Dad
tobydunford 28/Jun/09 Lead rpt
barni 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Northern
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead β
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 31/May/09 -
clgladiator 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with Ducky
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead dog
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead RP
Hidden 01/May/09 Lead O/S
clairejane ?/May/09 Lead β
with will
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Darragh ?/May/09 -
with Hanna & Pat
Wilbur 25/Apr/09 Lead RP

Flashed today after failing on it years ago. Still feels pretty stiff/sustained to me for the grade. Would probably get 6b+ in the peak!

with Padge
nevostevo 24/Apr/09 TR RP
with andy
Hidden 24/Apr/09 TR dog
Mr Tickle 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Anthony Ray
JimR 13/Apr/09 -
briar4012 12/Apr/09 TR dog
with Harry
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Reaver2k 08/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Last climb of the trip! Absolutely shattered! Was a bit cold, and everyone else was sounding a bit down! Great route though. First bolt is high and awkward! Got a bit pumped just below the flake, took a rest just over on the left. Moves up the flake are easy, but a bit run out. Last move is on lovely flowstone, went up and left on a good undercut. A great trip!

with Katie Keeley, Alex Bashford
trev_f 06/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Maddy
Jon_Warner 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Mark Glaister
chris sm 22/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
MarkRyder 18/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Rich
vertigo 18/Mar/09 Lead β
Hidden ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Mowglee 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Rich
mattcyp88 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S


with Mark Tomlinson
EmmanuelF 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S


HansUDes 24/Feb/09 TR RP

Portland, Battleship Main. Bolted climb 6a+

thompson1000 ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
Pete Sanger ??/2009 Lead β
with chris
Spacetourist ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
cymjt ??/2009 -
garywong 16/Nov/08 Lead dog

Got too pumped on the layback to get past the roof and fell... 3 times, ending up upside down once!

bigbobbyking 24/Oct/08 Lead dnf

got freaked out at the very top, didn't like the thread (has gone green!)

with Mark Tomlinson
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 29/Aug/08 Lead rpt

I think this is a great climb, varied and continuously intresting

with Clare
gfoster 24/Aug/08 2nd

Didnt really like this, especially at the bottom.

nblackbeard 24/Aug/08 Lead dog

A nice climb :-). Absolutely gutted that i fell at the lower off :-(.

with Gemma Foster and Tom Grant
tedj234 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Nicolas Rabb
Hidden 13/Jul/08 TR
hervenuttall 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Didier Nuttall
Matt Bennett 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/08 2nd β
Hidden 06/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 29/Jun/08 Lead rpt

Much tougher in the lower section (and easier up top) than i remember.

with Caine
dmoir 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
trev_f 29/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jon
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead β
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
feilx 17/May/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
TiffTiff 17/May/08 Lead β
garburn 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Neil Abraham
bpmclimb 02/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Mark
bpmclimb 02/Apr/08 Lead rpt
with Mark
Urgles 02/Apr/08 2nd dog
with Brian (bpm climb)
Mark Kemball 27/Mar/08 Lead
with Stu Bradbury, Lee Bartrop
Brian Rodgers 01/Mar/08 Lead
with Ian Bruce
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 27/Nov/07 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/07 Lead
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead dog
Matt Shepherd 20/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
deanster01 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Steph Attwood
hippo99 ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S


Hidden 26/May/07 Lead dnf
lukea 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Fred
tobydunford ?/May/07 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/May/07 Lead
AlexD 11/Mar/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead β
ASchwirtz 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
timharrison 14/Jan/07 Lead dog
with Seb
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Scott N ??/2007 Lead O/S
sam_cox ??/2007 Lead
steve taylor 23/Dec/06 Lead rpt
with mark reeves
JPGR 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
bronsonite 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Alex Cannon
Hidden 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
nathanmanc 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Hidden 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 09/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Tim
timharrison 09/Jul/06 2nd
steve taylor 07/Jun/06 Lead O/S
bigie bob 14/May/06 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 05/May/06 -
with Richard Ball
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Floris
Daniel Wrightson 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
just one more 01/Oct/05 Lead
with Svenn G
Hidden 16/Sep/05 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Vince 02/May/05 Lead RP
with Morgan Woods
Morgan Woods ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Vinnie
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Derek Furze ??/2005 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2004 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
timharrison ?/Sep/03 Lead rpt
rob.grafton 16/Aug/03 Lead
with Simon Wood, Jim, Bruce
Jon Greengrass ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 22/Sep/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/02 Lead
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 15/May/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
phardman 28/Mar/02 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 23/Mar/02 -
Hidden 17/Feb/02 Lead RP
Mark A Humphries 17/Feb/02 Lead RP
with dean howard
migs493 27/May/01 Lead O/S
AlexD 26/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
anyes varenne ?/Aug/00 -
with suzanne
shoulders 11/Jun/00 Lead
with mart, andy sharp, pete lewis
chris sm ??/2000 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Mark Kemball 13/Feb/99 Lead O/S
with Jason Lloyd
CrashMat Rob 23/May/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Hidden 14/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/97 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/May/97 Lead O/S
phardman 30/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Neil R 29/Mar/97 2nd
with Richard W
sadams 22/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Team Midlands
pmot ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
buzby78 18/May/96 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Apr/96 Lead
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
AndySL ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Mark
Dave Musgrove 17/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Lyn
rob.grafton 28/May/95 2nd
with Bruce
Roget 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/95 Lead
Dringo ??/1995 -
Ben Thorne ??/1994 Lead O/S

Hardest onsight at the time.

with Rich Howard
MoWalker3 11/Oct/93 -
with Joe
Hidden 25/Jul/93 -
Nigel Coe ?/Jun/93 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AshleyLong, Ella7, Hidden, Rich2002, Hidden, Hidden, Jeremy Crampin, Hidden, Andreas.Klaedtke, Hidden, fleapitfan, cha1n, Warren Earle, jl
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 96
Votes cast 80
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set