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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

22m.

Rockfax Description
A well-established and testing classic that features climbing on an amazing set of flowstone organ pipes. Climb the flowstone pipes which gradually ease off after some difficult pulls midway. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 12/Sep/1992.

Ticklists

Natalie's Challenges , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , ULMC Classics , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland sub 6b , Portland , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Portland, Dorset , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Olympian (6's, max stars) , UK Flowstone , Portland Olympian - Need for Speed! , PO2021 , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Portland Olympian , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
P Natl 28 Jan Show βeta
βeta: The description of the route should say this is a tight line: going too far right between 3rd and 4th bolts (effectively climbing Talking Smack 5c) skips the distinct crux which involves smeary feet and a deep two-finger pocket.
Show beta
βeta: The description of the route should say this is a tight line: going too far right between 3rd and 4th bolts (effectively climbing Talking Smack 5c) skips the distinct crux which involves smeary feet and a deep two-finger pocket.
OlieWhiting 14 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Some holds can be very polished. If you are climbing in heat they may feel a bit slimy.
Show beta
βeta: Some holds can be very polished. If you are climbing in heat they may feel a bit slimy.
storm_of_insanity 17 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Pleased to have been able to lead this onsight again after not having climbed much at all over the past 2 years
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pleased to have been able to lead this onsight again after not having climbed much at all over the past 2 years
Stacy Hackner 10 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Difficult to get to third bolt as a short person. I had to step quite far out to the right.
Show beta
βeta: Difficult to get to third bolt as a short person. I had to step quite far out to the right.
Noemie Roux 1 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Chuffed to get it first go! Was going to say take many times beyond the crux but I pushed myself and commited 100%
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Chuffed to get it first go! Was going to say take many times beyond the crux but I pushed myself and commited 100%
aziule 8 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loved the first part of the route, but fell hard on the crux at the last bolt before the top, and sprained my ankle. I felt the move was quite scary as you have to commit yourself on pumping holds with very slippery feet.
Show beta
βeta: Loved the first part of the route, but fell hard on the crux at the last bolt before the top, and sprained my ankle. I felt the move was quite scary as you have to commit yourself on pumping holds with very slippery feet.
Mischa Resnick 21 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Took a massive whopper at the top. Went right and couldn’t find anything good enough to hold in order to clip the last bolt. Caught my breath and finished it, taking the line to the left of the bolt, which was much more manageable, but not obvious from my pint of view.
Show beta
βeta: Took a massive whopper at the top. Went right and couldn’t find anything good enough to hold in order to clip the last bolt. Caught my breath and finished it, taking the line to the left of the bolt, which was much more manageable, but not obvious from my pint of view.
JimboWizbo 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A foothold snapped off at the start, route not affected
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A foothold snapped off at the start, route not affected
Alex More 5 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Beauty, climb it as the sun sets and the rock glows!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beauty, climb it as the sun sets and the rock glows!
andybirtwistle 15 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Some bizzare comments about what is really a great climb of its type.I can only infer that many of the writers haven't climbed on tufas or flowstone.First bolt missing(sling) and second bolt is not in the best place but the climbing is great. Last weekend was my first visit to Portland and its brilliant!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some bizzare comments about what is really a great climb of its type.I can only infer that many of the writers haven't climbed on tufas or flowstone.First bolt missing(sling) and second bolt is not in the best place but the climbing is great. Last weekend was my first visit to Portland and its brilliant!
iccle_eve 14 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: wicked climb technical (especially if small) love it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: wicked climb technical (especially if small) love it
Wilbur 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: stiff at the grade. pregnant pause felt like a path after doing this! benchmark 6a+ and a fantastic route to boot..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: stiff at the grade. pregnant pause felt like a path after doing this! benchmark 6a+ and a fantastic route to boot..
a pedley 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There is just no pleasing some people, Tufa climbing is a rarity in this country and is obviously alien to some people, i thought it was a great route,and right for the grade!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is just no pleasing some people, Tufa climbing is a rarity in this country and is obviously alien to some people, i thought it was a great route,and right for the grade!!
dixiechick 6 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I had long awaited doing reptile smile having seen it done afew times in the past. I loved every second of it. I fell off at the top after being thugged out after a whole days leading up to it. It is a brilliant route and deserves every star it has. I cant help thinking that it should be 6b but anyway its brilliant value for 6a plus!! Next time i wont fall off!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I had long awaited doing reptile smile having seen it done afew times in the past. I loved every second of it. I fell off at the top after being thugged out after a whole days leading up to it. It is a brilliant route and deserves every star it has. I cant help thinking that it should be 6b but anyway its brilliant value for 6a plus!! Next time i wont fall off!!
TRNovice 14 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: There are a couple of in situ slings threaded in the area where the first bolt was (14-Nov-2004)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are a couple of in situ slings threaded in the area where the first bolt was (14-Nov-2004)
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: talk about the fast food generation! No its not perfect, but the rock is pretty unique for the u.k. the missing bolt was pulled from scales not reptile smile years ago by a visiting climber who wanted to test the strength of bolts on tufa- he went away happy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: talk about the fast food generation! No its not perfect, but the rock is pretty unique for the u.k. the missing bolt was pulled from scales not reptile smile years ago by a visiting climber who wanted to test the strength of bolts on tufa- he went away happy.
Ewan 3 Jun, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Nice rock and interesting holds, but an overrated experience.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice rock and interesting holds, but an overrated experience.

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 397
Votes cast 367
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pregnant Pause

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

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