Margaret on the Guillotine** 6a
[Kaz climbing Margaret on the Guillotine, 3 kb]17m. Surprisingly varied climbing which requires an eye for route finding. Start left of the first bolt, then move up and traverse rightwards before stepping back left to the shallow corner above. Climb the corner to a horizontal break where a long move gains the next break and a lower-off on the wall above. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pete Oxley 22/Apr/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Orange Spot Portland.

Photo: Kaz climbing Margaret on the Guillotine © John Wellbelove

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 265 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/14

Charlie Zephyr Booth - Sep/14 with martin broadhurst

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/14

piska - 2nd dnf - 13/Aug/14 with Jon Casado, Natalie Haigh, Phil Haigh

alaster tonge - Lead dnf - 05/Jul/14 with Assad Lahlou

TomJ - Lead β - 15/Jun/14 with TomS, Charlotte, Jon_Warner, Jenni

Nice route, felt 6a+.
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Tom Jordan, Jenni

ConstaBern - Lead - 07/Jun/14

Jack93 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/14 with Jim Hulbert

spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/14 with Jack Knight

philhaigh - 2nd rpt - 05/Jun/14 with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia

Robin Brooke - Lead - Jun/14 with Paula Ryan

Hard section to first bolt.
RadekNowak - Lead O/S - 26/May/14

Hidden - TR dog - 25/May/14

martin one - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Markus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Dec/13

hms - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Jenny

Wayne.Gaudin - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Marcus

Jenny Seaborne - Lead RP - 18/Sep/13

khalidq - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Cameron McLoughlin

Marti999 - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/13 with Debbie

Nick Clement - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/13 with mandy clement

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Aug/13

gemmacide - Lead dog - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/13

tsyrett - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/13

Phil1587 - 2nd - Aug/13

mop449 - Lead O/S - Aug/13 with Gaiane de Brabanter

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Jul/13

chriswood - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/13

Jay-Ast - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Rosyk

Rosyk - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/13 with Jay astbury

DJ Nelson - Lead β - 15/Jun/13 with Adam Ryan

Graham Booth - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/13 with Natalie Treadgold

Graham Booth - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Natalie Treadgold

RFWilkie - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

cameron_hall - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Luke Castiglio

Will come back and try to get this one clean
surfer38 - Lead dog - 18/May/13

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 06/May/13 with Mike Dawes

Cat Hendrie - 06/May/13

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 05/May/13 with Vicki Hau, Natalie Haigh

Rokmunky - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Allan Evans

Hidden - Lead β - 05/May/13

nataliehaigh - 2nd dog - 05/May/13 with Phil Haigh

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/13

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

gibsond - Lead dog - 27/Apr/13 with Tim Ellerton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

SamStokes - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Emily Stokes

oodie72 - Lead dog - 30/Mar/13 with Alex Pond

georgel - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with vinnie

catt - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Vincent Ho, George

Hidden - 2nd - 2013

Hidden - Lead - 2013

Struggled on this, but I think that was largely due to the cold weather. The first bolt is a 'tad' high too.
nblackbeard - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Gemma Foster

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/12 with julie carroll

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/12

jonleighton - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12

Vince - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/12 with jon

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Aug/12

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/12 with Kirsty Kerr

Brian H - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/12 with Martin Slater

Hidden - TR - 18/Aug/12

redjerry - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Danny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12

Hidden - TR dog - 27/Jul/12

brices - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Gav

Matt77 - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12

nataliehaigh - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Steve Hau, Mel Dodge, Rob Kennard, Terry Finlay, Eddy Young, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Phil Haigh

popov86 - Lead - 12/May/12

philhaigh - Lead O/S - 08/May/12 with Natalie Haigh

Tom Gale - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Keiha

drewish - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12

Diggler - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with andyob

Calder - 2nd - 25/Mar/12 with Johnny

andyob - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Calder, jonny, Diggler

Bisset - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Kieran, Phil B

The Ivanator - Lead - 20/Nov/11 with Sean

tradguy - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with John Mitchener

burto - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with steve, hertha

natalietanzer - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with marcus

Nice climbing but suffering from traffic.
andybirtwistle - Lead - 27/Sep/11 with Ian Birtwistle

Dandan82 - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Lisa Marsh

jamespilgrim - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Mark

Brian H - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/11 with Rik

Hidden - TR rpt - 19/Aug/11

Gareth Bowen - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11 with Aleksandr

jbulger - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with john kay

high first bolt... freaky for the first climb of the day
LeahJamie - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Aidan Taub

gibsond - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Brian Watson, James Bisset

brian watson - 2nd - 09/Jul/11 with darrel

lozowen - Lead - 07/Jul/11 with J T

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - TR β - 30/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

fildac - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11

Saurus - Lead O/S - Jun/11 with Barfani Chita

KDhruev - Lead O/S - 10/May/11 with Kyle Fayers

Kyle F - Lead O/S - 10/May/11 with Keiha D

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/11

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Steve Cousins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/11

one fall, a little greasy in places
hotfeet - 25/Apr/11

waynem1985 - Lead dog - 25/Apr/11

Alison2 - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with matthew154

Hidden - Lead - 09/Apr/11

Oddjob - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Bad fall
JenDurden - Lead dnf - 02/Apr/11 with Paddy

mrstarwarsman - Lead - 02/Apr/11 with JenDurden

Daniel - Lead dog - Apr/11

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

el_monty - Lead RP - 13/Mar/11 with Si

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11 with steve read

Al Urker - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Mar/11

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/11

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - Jan/11 with mike

mlg678 - Lead O/S - Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 21/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Nov/10

Barry Kerslake - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Magnus

Rupey - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with sam and helen

Jonathan Emett - Lead dog - 30/Aug/10 with steve powell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10

eugeneth - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Ben Vieyra

Will_Maxwell - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Miles Whitehead, Rafael Pena

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10

bbrowne - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Kelly Atkin

Led in 1996 but seems to be 6a+ now and first clip scary. Consider it to be an onsight!
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Steve Wright

mattparratt - Lead - 05/Jun/10

Peterjuliandawson - Lead β - 03/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10

Lyndsay Superclimber - Lead RP - 25/May/10 with Andy

JKay - Lead O/S - 14/May/10 with Andy Richmond

Hidden - TR dog - 14/May/10

Hidden - TR rpt - 01/May/10

el_Claudio - TR O/S - 01/May/10 with Andy Richmond

trev_f - Lead rpt - 13/Mar/10 with Mick Ward

Ceridwen - TR O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Ivan

chris sm - Lead rpt - 30/Jan/10 with Ian Butterworth

Hidden - 2010

Jane Weir - 2010

jld579 - Lead - 2010

Sophie Nunn - Lead - 27/Dec/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/09

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09

eddie coughlin - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with pete skinsley

Vince - Lead rpt - 31/Aug/09 with John Percy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/09

hippo99 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with rache, joe

Luke Marsden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Jonathan Plumridge

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Gary Lewin

barni - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Northern

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/09

Darragh - May/09 with Hanna & Pat

Hidden - TR rpt - 22/Apr/09

JimR - 13/Apr/09

briar4012 - TR RP - 12/Apr/09 with Michael

embob - 2nd - 12/Apr/09 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/Apr/09

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/09 with Rich

Ben Harper - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Richard Dagan

andy jennings - TR O/S - 21/Mar/09

trev_f - Lead rpt - 20/Mar/09 with Harry

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09

nealh - Lead - 2009

Alex More - Lead - 2009

bigbobbyking - Lead - 24/Oct/08 with Mark Tomlinson

Hidden - TR β - 19/Sep/08

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08

probably climbed it in the 1990s but considering it an onsight nonetheless. :-)
Jonathan Emett - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/08 with Matt, Joe

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Jul/08

trev_f - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/08 with Alex M

Hidden - TR - Jul/08

dmoir - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/08 with nilsamelinckx

richardr - Lead O/S - Jun/08

TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 17/May/08

steve taylor - 26/Apr/08 with gav

Brian Rodgers - Lead - 01/Mar/08 with Ian Bruce

vertigo - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Cat Higgs

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/07 with Felix Coxwell

Stephen Roberts - 05/Apr/07 with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin

chris sm - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Pippa Froggatt

AlexD - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead β - 11/Mar/07

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead RP - 22/Feb/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2007

feilx - Lead O/S - 2007 with Dan Barbour

steve taylor - 23/Dec/06 with mark reeves

JPGR - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/06 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/06

fell off it a couple of years ago - returned to do it properly..
Wilbur - Lead RP - 05/Aug/06 with Caine

viking - Lead - Aug/06 with wilbur

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/06

timharrison - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/06 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/06 with Tim

aged_ape - Lead RP - May/06

EG - Lead - 29/Apr/06 with Kristy

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Oli sherman (lead it too)

Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Dan Wrightson

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/06 with Ben Smith, Lisa Paling

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

feeko - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Marq - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/05 with Ruth Creamer

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/05

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/05

Vince - Lead O/S - 02/May/05 with Morgan Woods

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/05 with Rigby

Derek Furze - Lead - 2005

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 2004

timharrison - Lead rpt - Sep/03

rob.grafton - Lead - 16/Aug/03 with Simon Wood, Jim, Bruce

Jon Greengrass - Lead O/S - 2003 with Al Evans

Richard White - 2003

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/02 with Tom Starke

Rock Fairy - 2nd - Jun/02 with david

phardman - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/02

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Dec/01

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 16/Dec/01 with dean howard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/01

shoulders - Lead - 26/Jul/01 with chrisevans

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/00

anyes varenne - Aug/00 with suzanne

jasper11 - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/98

Mark Kemball - Lead - 09/Apr/98 with Jason Lloyd

kp64zl - Lead O/S - Jul/97

John Southworth - Lead O/S - May/97

buzby78 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/97

Neil R - Lead - 30/Mar/97 with Richard W

phardman - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/97

r0b - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/96 with Richard Smith

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Apr/96

Hidden - Lead - 07/Apr/96

Kevster - Lead - 1996

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/95 with Lyn

Scott McRae - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/95 with Steve Lucas

rob.grafton - 2nd - 28/May/95 with Bruce

Roget - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/95 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/95

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 14/Apr/95 with Perric Crellin

Mark Kemball - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/95

Tricky start, then greasy.
Ben Thorne - Lead O/S - 1994 with Rich Howard

MoWalker3 - 11/Oct/93 with Joe

Ena - Lead O/S - Aug/93

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/93

Ezy Ryder - Lead RP - 1993

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
georgel, lewiz, cha1n, Warren Earle

Voting
Total votes cast 113
hard 6a+1 of 60
6a+4 of 60
easy 6a+16 of 60
hard 6a26 of 60
6a10 of 60
easy 6a2 of 60
hard 5c1 of 60
5c0 of 60
easy 5c0 of 60
3 Stars0 of 53
2 Stars20 of 53
1 Star30 of 53
0 Stars3 of 53
Bag of .....0 of 53
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Style of ascent

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Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
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Clean rpt
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dogged
dnf