Rockfax Description
Surprisingly varied climbing which requires an eye for route finding. Start left of the first bolt, then move up and traverse rightwards before stepping back left to the shallow corner above. Climb the corner to a horizontal break where a long move gains the next break and a lower-off on the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 22/Apr/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Orange Spot Portland.

onlyfoddington 10/Oct Lead dog

1st attempt I fell when I snapped off a crimp. Took a lot of convincing and several rests moving between breaks near the top.

with Yin
philhaigh 30/Aug Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Aug Lead rpt
SDM 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Michael
Hidden 19/Jul TR O/S
chris sm 18/Jul Lead rpt
with Damien ?
Hidden 05/Jul Lead O/S
Robheirene 05/Jul Lead O/S

Really polished and greasy - may have deserved 2 stars previously, but not now. Also, the lower off is really hard to reach for the short so worth avoiding if this fits your description!

NikkiClimbaCrag 05/Jul Lead dog

Couldn't reach the lower off

with Rob
Hidden 04/Jul Lead O/S
Hugobristol 04/Jun Lead O/S
with Liam
lewiz 30/May -

Nice moves.

with Radek
Hidden 20/May Lead O/S
David Staples 20/May Lead O/S
Sam4242 17/May Lead O/S
sam_craddock 04/May Lead β
with Phil Belcher
Alex the Alex 04/May Lead O/S

Clipped then grabbed the top draw. really polished crimps to finish.

with Mofire Crewdem
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead
Charlie Zephyr Booth ?/Sep/14 -
with martin broadhurst
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead
piska 13/Aug/14 2nd dnf
with Jon Casado, Natalie Haigh, Phil Haigh
alaster tonge 05/Jul/14 Lead dnf
with Assad Lahlou
TomJ 15/Jun/14 Lead β
with TomS, Charlotte, Jon_Warner, Jenni
Jon_Warner 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nice route, felt 6a+.

with Tom Jordan, Jenni
ConstaBern 07/Jun/14 Lead
Jack93 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 05/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia
Robin Brooke ?/Jun/14 Lead
RadekNowak 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Hard section to first bolt.

Hidden 25/May/14 TR dog
martin one 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Markus
Hidden 06/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Wayne.Gaudin 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Marcus
jas128 18/Sep/13 Lead RP
khalidq 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Marti999 19/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Debbie
Nick Clement 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd dog
gemmatrickey 11/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead rpt
tsyrett 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Phil1587 ?/Aug/13 2nd
mop449 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Gaiane de Brabanter
Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead β
chriswood 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Jay-Ast 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Rosyk 19/Jun/13 2nd dog
DJ Nelson 15/Jun/13 Lead β
Graham Booth 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Graham Booth 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Luke Castiglio
surfer38 18/May/13 Lead dog

Will come back and try to get this one clean

AlexRenshaw 06/May/13 Lead
Cat Hendrie 06/May/13 -
philhaigh 05/May/13 Lead rpt
with Vicki Hau, Natalie Haigh
Rokmunky 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead β
nataliehaigh 05/May/13 2nd dog
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead rpt
drcorbasisgod 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
gibsond 27/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
SamStokes 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
oodie72 30/Mar/13 Lead dog
georgel 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with vinnie
catt 23/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Nevil ??/2013 2nd
with Mike
Hidden ??/2013 Lead
nblackbeard 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Struggled on this, but I think that was largely due to the cold weather. The first bolt is a 'tad' high too.

dan gibson 19/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead rpt
jonleighton 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Vince 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden 30/Aug/12 Lead β
tobydunford 28/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
Brian H 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
Hidden 18/Aug/12 TR
redjerry 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Danny
Hidden 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/12 TR dog
brices 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Gav
Matt77 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
nataliehaigh 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Steve Hau, Mel Dodge, Rob Kennard, Terry Finlay, Eddy Young, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Phil Haigh
popov86 12/May/12 Lead
philhaigh 08/May/12 Lead O/S
Tom Gale 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Keiha
drewish 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Diggler 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with andyob
Calder 25/Mar/12 2nd
with Johnny
andyob 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Calder, jonny, Diggler
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 20/Nov/11 Lead
with Sean
tradguy 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
burto 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with steve, hertha
natalietanzer 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with marcus
andybirtwistle 27/Sep/11 Lead

Nice climbing but suffering from traffic.

Dandan82 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
Brian H 28/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Rik
Hidden 19/Aug/11 TR rpt
Gareth Bowen 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Aleksandr
jbulger 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
LeahJamie 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

high first bolt... freaky for the first climb of the day

with Aidan Taub
gibsond 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
brian watson 09/Jul/11 2nd
with darrel
lozowen 07/Jul/11 Lead
with J T
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/11 TR β
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
fildac 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Saurus ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
KDhruev 10/May/11 Lead O/S
Kyle F 10/May/11 Lead O/S
with Keiha D
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Steve Cousins
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
hotfeet 25/Apr/11 -

one fall, a little greasy in places

waynem1985 25/Apr/11 Lead dog
Alison2 21/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead
Oddjob 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
JenDurden 02/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Bad fall

with Paddy
mrstarwarsman 02/Apr/11 Lead
Daniel ?/Apr/11 Lead dog
Luke Dawson 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
el_monty 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Si
Paul Eckton 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with steve read
Martin Brierley 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead β
tobydunford 05/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
mlg678 ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 21/Nov/10 -
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Lead RP
Barry Kerslake 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Magnus
Rupey 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with sam and helen
Jonathan Emett 30/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
eugeneth 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Will_Maxwell 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Miles Whitehead, Rafael Pena
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
bbrowne 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Kelly Atkin
Phil Murray 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Led in 1996 but seems to be 6a+ now and first clip scary. Consider it to be an onsight!

with Steve Wright
mattparratt 05/Jun/10 Lead
Peterjuliandawson 03/Jun/10 Lead β
Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Lyndsay Superclimber 25/May/10 Lead RP
with Andy
JKay 14/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/10 TR dog
Hidden 01/May/10 TR rpt
el_Claudio 01/May/10 TR O/S
trev_f 13/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Ceridwen 07/Mar/10 TR O/S
with Ivan
chris sm 30/Jan/10 Lead rpt
with Ian Butterworth
Hidden ??/2010 -
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
jld579 ??/2010 Lead
Sophie Nunn 27/Dec/09 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Ian JL 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
eddie coughlin 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with pete skinsley
Vince 31/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with John Percy
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead rpt
hippo99 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with rache, joe
Luke Marsden 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Plumridge
Chris Sansum 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Gary Lewin
barni 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Northern
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Darragh ?/May/09 -
with Hanna & Pat
Hidden 22/Apr/09 TR rpt
JimR 13/Apr/09 -
briar4012 12/Apr/09 TR RP
with Michael
embob 12/Apr/09 2nd
with Alex
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd dnf
MarkRyder 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Rich
Ben Harper 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
andy jennings 21/Mar/09 TR O/S
trev_f 20/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Harry
Ed Babs 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
bigbobbyking 24/Oct/08 Lead
with Mark Tomlinson
Hidden 19/Sep/08 TR β
bigie bob 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 25/Jul/08 Lead O/S

probably climbed it in the 1990s but considering it an onsight nonetheless. :-)

with Matt, Joe
Matt Bennett 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/08 Lead dog
trev_f 03/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Alex M
Hidden ?/Jul/08 TR
dmoir 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 17/May/08 Lead O/S
steve taylor 26/Apr/08 -
with gav
Brian Rodgers 01/Mar/08 Lead
with Ian Bruce
vertigo 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Cat Higgs
dannyboy83 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Stephen Roberts 05/Apr/07 -
with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
chris sm 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
AlexD 11/Mar/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead β
ASchwirtz 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
feilx ??/2007 Lead O/S
steve taylor 23/Dec/06 -
with mark reeves
JPGR 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Wilbur 05/Aug/06 Lead RP

fell off it a couple of years ago - returned to do it properly..

with Caine
viking ?/Aug/06 Lead
with wilbur
Hidden 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
timharrison 09/Jul/06 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 09/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Tim
lost.arrow 05/May/06 -
with Richard Ball
aged_ape ?/May/06 Lead RP
just one more 30/Apr/06 Lead
with Svenn G
EG 29/Apr/06 Lead
with Kristy
Daniel Wrightson 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Oli sherman (lead it too)
Oliver Sherman 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
tobydunford 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith, Lisa Paling
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Marq 19/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Ruth Creamer
Hidden 12/Jun/05 2nd
Norman_P_W 12/Jun/05 Lead
with Bob M
Vince 02/May/05 Lead O/S
with Morgan Woods
Owen W-G 16/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Rigby
Derek Furze ??/2005 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2004 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
timharrison ?/Sep/03 Lead rpt
rob.grafton 16/Aug/03 Lead
with Simon Wood, Jim, Bruce
Jon Greengrass ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 22/Sep/02 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 19/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Tom Starke
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
phardman 28/Mar/02 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 23/Mar/02 -
Hidden 16/Dec/01 Lead β
Mark A Humphries 16/Dec/01 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Hidden 04/Aug/01 Lead O/S
shoulders 26/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/01 2nd
migs493 27/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
anyes varenne ?/Aug/00 -
with suzanne
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden 13/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 09/Apr/98 Lead
with Jason Lloyd
kp64zl ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/May/97 Lead O/S
buzby78 10/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Neil R 30/Mar/97 Lead
with Richard W
phardman 27/Mar/97 Lead O/S
r0b 17/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Richard Smith
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
Hidden 07/Apr/96 Lead
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Dave Musgrove 17/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Lyn
Scott McRae 16/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Steve Lucas
rob.grafton 28/May/95 2nd
with Bruce
Roget 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead
Bruce Kerr 14/Apr/95 Lead
with Perric Crellin
Mark Kemball 23/Feb/95 Lead O/S
Ben Thorne ??/1994 Lead O/S

Tricky start, then greasy.

with Rich Howard
MoWalker3 11/Oct/93 -
with Joe
Ena ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/93 Lead
Ezy Ryder ??/1993 Lead RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AshleyLong, James Yearsley, Hidden, georgel, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, cha1n, Warren Earle
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set