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Margaret on the Guillotine* 6a

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[Kaz climbing Margaret on the Guillotine, 3 kb]17m. Surprisingly varied climbing which requires an eye for route finding. Start left of the first bolt, then move up and traverse rightwards before stepping back left to the shallow corner above. Climb the corner to a horizontal break where a long move gains the next break and a lower-off on the wall above. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pete Oxley 22.4.89 22/Apr/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Orange Spot Portland.

Photo: Kaz climbing Margaret on the Guillotine © John Wellbelove
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 214 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Will come back and try to get this one clean
surfer38 - Lead dog - 18/May/13

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 06/May/13 with Mike Dawes

Cat Hendrie - 06/May/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/May/13

Rokmunky - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Allan Evans

Hidden - Lead β - 05/May/13

nataliehaigh - 2nd dog - 05/May/13 with Phil Haigh

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/13

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

gibsond - Lead dog - 27/Apr/13 with Tim Ellerton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

SamStokes - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/13 with Emily Stokes

oodie72 - Lead dog - 30/Mar/13 with Alex Pond

georgel - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with vinnie

catt - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Vincent Ho, George

Struggled on this, but I think that was largely due to the cold weather. The first bolt is a 'tad' high too.
nblackbeard - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Gemma Foster

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/12 with julie carroll

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12

jonleighton - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12

Vince - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/12 with jon

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Aug/12

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/12 with Kirsty Kerr

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/12

Hidden - TR - 18/Aug/12

redjerry - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Danny

BenL - TR - Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12

Hidden - TR dog - 27/Jul/12

brices - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Gav

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12

nataliehaigh - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Steve Hau, Mel Dodge, Rob Kennard, Terry Finlay, Eddy Young, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Phil Haigh

popov86 - Lead - 12/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/12

Tom Gale - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Keiha

drewish - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12

Diggler - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with andyob

Calder - 2nd - 25/Mar/12 with Johnny

andyob - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Calder, jonny, Diggler

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

The Ivanator - Lead - 20/Nov/11 with Sean

tradguy - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with John Mitchener

burto - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with steve, hertha

natalietanzer - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with marcus

Nice climbing but suffering from traffic.
andybirtwistle - Lead - 27/Sep/11 with Ian Birtwistle

Dandan82 - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Lisa Marsh

jamespilgrim - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Mark

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/11

Glad I finally can do this all the way without dying. Still find the moves to the lower-off sketchy despite the good side-pull.
omniscient_penguin - TR rpt - 19/Aug/11 with Claudio

Gareth Bowen - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/11 with Aleksandr

jbulger - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with john kay

high first bolt... freaky for the first climb of the day
LeahJamie - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Aidan Taub

gibsond - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Brian Watson, James Bisset

lozowen - Lead - 07/Jul/11 with J T

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jul/11

omniscient_penguin - TR β - 30/Jun/11 with John Kay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

fildac - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/11

Saurus - Lead O/S - Jun/11 with Barfani Chita

KDhruev - Lead O/S - 10/May/11 with Kyle Fayers

Kyle F - Lead O/S - 10/May/11 with Keiha D

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/11

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Steve Cousins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/11

one fall, a little greasy in places
hotfeet - 25/Apr/11

waynem1985 - Lead dog - 25/Apr/11

Alison2 - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/11 with matthew154

Trouble - Lead - 09/Apr/11

Oddjob - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Carrie

Bad fall
JenDurden - Lead dnf - 02/Apr/11 with Paddy

mrstarwarsman - Lead - 02/Apr/11 with JenDurden

Daniel - Lead dog - Apr/11

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

el_monty - Lead RP - 13/Mar/11 with Si

Al Urker - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Mar/11

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/11

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - Jan/11 with mike

mlg678 - Lead O/S - Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 21/Nov/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Nov/10

Barry Kerslake - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with Magnus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10

Jonathan Emett - Lead dog - 30/Aug/10 with steve powell

Felt tough - first route of the day syndrome.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Rik Meek, Brian Hannon

eugeneth - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Ben Vieyra

Will_Maxwell - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Miles Whitehead, Rafael Pena

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10

bbrowne - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Kelly Atkin

Led in 1996 but seems to be 6a+ now and first clip scary. Consider it to be an onsight!
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Steve Wright

mattparratt - Lead - 05/Jun/10

Peterjuliandawson - Lead β - 03/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10

Lyndsay Superclimber - Lead RP - 25/May/10 with Andy

JSKay86 - Lead O/S - 14/May/10 with Andy Richmond

Worked and finally got middle section.
omniscient_penguin - TR dog - 14/May/10 with John Kay

omniscient_penguin - TR rpt - 01/May/10 with Claudio

el_Claudio - TR O/S - 01/May/10 with Andy Richmond

trev_f - Lead rpt - 13/Mar/10 with Mick Ward

Ceridwen - TR O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Ivan

chris sm - Lead rpt - 30/Jan/10 with Ian Butterworth

Hidden - 2010

Jane Weir - 2010

jld579 - Lead - 2010

Sophie Nunn - Lead - 27/Dec/09

A bit technical and exciting
Quiddity - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/09 with Hazel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/09

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09

eddie coughlin - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with pete skinsley

Vince - Lead rpt - 31/Aug/09 with John Percy

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/09

hippo99 - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with rache, joe

Luke Marsden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Jonathan Plumridge

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Gary Lewin

barni - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Northern

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/09

Darragh - May/09 with Hanna & Pat

omniscient_penguin - TR rpt - 22/Apr/09 with Steve

JimR - 13/Apr/09

briar4012 - TR RP - 12/Apr/09 with Michael

embob - 2nd - 12/Apr/09 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 12/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/Apr/09

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/09 with Rich

Ben Harper - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Richard Dagan

andy jennings - TR O/S - 21/Mar/09

trev_f - Lead rpt - 20/Mar/09 with Harry

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/09

nealh - Lead - 2009

Alex More - Lead - 2009

bigbobbyking - Lead - 24/Oct/08 with Mark Tomlinson

awesome climb - a bit of everything!
omniscient_penguin - TR β - 19/Sep/08 with Steve

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08

probably climbed it in the 1990s but considering it an onsight nonetheless. :-)
Jonathan Emett - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/08 with Matt, Joe

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Jul/08

trev_f - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/08 with Alex M

Sari Nevala - TR - Jul/08

dmoir - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/08 with nilsamelinckx

richardr - Lead O/S - Jun/08

TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 17/May/08

steve taylor - 26/Apr/08 with gav

Brian Rodgers - Lead - 01/Mar/08 with Ian Bruce

vertigo - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Cat Higgs

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/07 with Felix Coxwell

Stephen Roberts - 05/Apr/07 with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin

chris sm - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Pippa Froggatt

AlexD - Lead rpt - 11/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead β - 11/Mar/07

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead RP - 22/Feb/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2007

feilx - Lead O/S - 2007 with Dan Barbour

steve taylor - 23/Dec/06 with mark reeves

JPGR - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/06 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/06

fell off it a couple of years ago - returned to do it properly..
Wilbur - Lead RP - 05/Aug/06 with Caine

viking - Lead - Aug/06 with wilbur

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/06

timharrison - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/06 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/06 with Tim

aged_ape - Lead RP - May/06

EG - Lead - 29/Apr/06 with Kristy

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Oli sherman (lead it too)

Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Dan Wrightson

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/06 with Ben Smith, Lisa Paling

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

feeko - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Marq - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/05 with Ruth Creamer

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/05

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/05

Vince - Lead O/S - 02/May/05 with Morgan Woods

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/05 with Rigby

Derek Furze - Lead - 2005

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 2004

timharrison - Lead rpt - Sep/03

rob.grafton - Lead - 16/Aug/03 with Simon Wood, Jim, Bruce

Jon Greengrass - Lead O/S - 2003 with Al Evans

Richard White - 2003

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/02 with Tom Starke

Rock Fairy - 2nd - Jun/02 with david

phardman - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/02

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Dec/01

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 16/Dec/01 with dean howard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/01

shoulders - Lead - 26/Jul/01 with chrisevans

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/99

Mark Kemball - Lead - 09/Apr/98 with Jason Lloyd

John Southworth - Lead O/S - May/97

buzby78 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/97

phardman - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/97

r0b - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/96 with Richard Smith

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Apr/96

Kevster - Lead - 1996

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/95 with Lyn

Scott McRae - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/95 with Steve Lucas

rob.grafton - 2nd - 28/May/95 with Bruce

Roget - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/95 with jon

Mark Kemball - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/95

Tricky start, then greasy.
Ben Thorne - Lead O/S - 1994 with Rich Howard

MoWalker3 - 11/Oct/93 with Joe

Ena - Lead O/S - Aug/93

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/93

Ezy Ryder - Lead RP - 1993

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, omniscient_penguin, Hidden, cha1n, Warren Earle

Voting
Total votes cast 85
hard 6a+0 of 45
6a+0 of 45
easy 6a+11 of 45
hard 6a22 of 45
6a9 of 45
easy 6a2 of 45
hard 5+1 of 45
5+0 of 45
easy 5+0 of 45
3 Stars0 of 40
2 Stars14 of 40
1 Star24 of 40
0 Stars2 of 40
Bag of .....0 of 40
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Style of ascent

Lead172 of 214 (80.4%)
Followed10 of 214 (4.7%)
Toproped14 of 214 (6.5%)
Alt Leads1 of 214 (0.5%)
Unknown17 of 214 (7.9%)

'Climbed'53 of 214 (24.8%)
clean O/S115 of 214 (53.7%)
clean β8 of 214 (3.7%)
clean rpt18 of 214 (8.4%)
clean RP8 of 214 (3.7%)
dogged10 of 214 (4.7%)
dnf2 of 214 (0.9%)