300m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route which takes a logical line up predominantly excellent rock. The long traverse is delicate but well protected (and also avoidable) and the upper pitches provide enjoyable and technical corner climbing. Recommended, even if the perhaps excessive pegging on some pitches detracts somewhat from the route's original 'dragon-like' daring.
Start in the centre of the face on black rock, ascend rightwards up a small ledge to reach a small corner.
1) IV+, 25m. Climb a series of corners rightwards then exit right to a good belay on a small platform.
2) IV+, 30m. Ignore the yellow corner above and step left, then enter a chimney. Climb the chimney passing a chockstone near the top to move right onto a ledge. Belay below a crack.
3) III, 20m. Follow a ramp right over easy ground then move up and left to a thread belay.
4) V+, 30m. Continue left, then move right, level with a ledge on the left. Climb a slab direct for a few metres then ascend diagonally left. Continue left past a flake to a good belay.
5) V+, 25m. Move left then climb a crack direct before an exposed traverse left leads to a belay on a ledge.
6) V, 35m. Continue left making an initially delicate traverse following a horizontal yellow crack (exposed but well protected) to then ascend to the base of a pillar.
6a) II, 35m. For an easier variant, ascend a small corner above the belay to reach a large ledge and follow this easily left (II) to rejoin the first variant.
7) IV+, 40m. Climb a black crack to the right of the pillar leftwards, then from the top of the pillar continue in the same line following a flake to a belay below a crack.
8) IV, 30m. Climb the crack above then exit left, pass the base of a small corner and climb a second crack to a belay on the left, just left of a small black roof.
9) V+, 25m. Climb the large black corner above, pulling through an overhang near to top to reach a belay on a ledge.
10) V, 30m. Follow the continuation corner above keeping mainly on the right wall then exit right onto a ledge below inclined rock.
11) IV-, 45m. Climb the slab above from left to right then enter a chimney. Follow this to a thread belay to the right of the prominent yellow roofs.
12) IV-, 20m. Follow a crack direct or slightly left to exit onto a large ledge just right of a yellow tower. © Rockfax

Batt 03/Aug AltLd O/S

The 100 Dolly climbs gives this VI- and I think that's a better grade. Alt lead until about pitch 8 where my feet turned into swollen sausages in the heat and it hurt t do anything. Done with John I and Cath E. Rock fax description pretty crap. Pitches are actually very good except first chimney and the long traverse which is dodgy whether you take the very loose, mud grade II or the poorly protected grade 5. It's not delicate, it's just bold! The line shown in the other book which seems to mix the 5 then the 2 lines is better and what I ended up doing once john confirmed the start of the 2 was a crumbling pile of rubbish. There is an awful lot of loose rock the higher you get. Descent is awful, basically follow the old war remains down the choss-fest!

Fran Sgr 07/Sep/13 AltLd dnf
with Jay C
greenclimb 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S

plus 1 on guide book time 7hrs

with Sarah
Lenny ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Phil .N
RocKalina ?/Jul/12 -

lead first pitch

with MM
Ed Babs 20/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

avoided a very loose looking pitch 7 on the RHS of the corner

with Harry
Hidden 23/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
NickJH ?/Aug/00 AltLd dnf
with JThomas
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set