|300m, 9 pitches. |
A classic route which takes a logical line up predominantly excellent rock. The long traverse is delicate but well protected (and also avoidable) and the upper pitches provide enjoyable and technical corner climbing. Recommended, even if the perhaps excessive pegging on some pitches detracts somewhat from the route's original 'dragon-like' daring.
Start in the centre of the face on black rock, ascend rightwards up a small ledge to reach a small corner.
1) IV+, 25m. Climb a series of corners rightwards then exit right to a good belay on a small platform.
2) IV+, 30m. Ignore the yellow corner above and step left, then enter a chimney. Climb the chimney passing a chockstone near the top to move right onto a ledge. Belay below a crack.
3) III, 20m. Follow a ramp right over easy ground then move up and left to a thread belay.
4) V+, 30m. Continue left, then move right, level with a ledge on the left. Climb a slab direct for a few metres then ascend diagonally left. Continue left past a flake to a good belay.
5) V+, 25m. Move left then climb a crack direct before an exposed traverse left leads to a belay on a ledge.
6) V, 35m. Continue left making an initially delicate traverse following a horizontal yellow crack (exposed but well protected) to then ascend to the base of a pillar.
6a) II, 35m. For an easier variant, ascend a small corner above the belay to reach a large ledge and follow this easily left (II) to rejoin the first variant.
7) IV+, 40m. Climb a black crack to the right of the pillar leftwards, then from the top of the pillar continue in the same line following a flake to a belay below a crack.
8) IV, 30m. Climb the crack above then exit left, pass the base of a small corner and climb a second crack to a belay on the left, just left of a small black roof.
9) V+, 25m. Climb the large black corner above, pulling through an overhang near to top to reach a belay on a ledge.
10) V, 30m. Follow the continuation corner above keeping mainly on the right wall then exit right onto a ledge below inclined rock.
11) IV-, 45m. Climb the slab above from left to right then enter a chimney. Follow this to a thread belay to the right of the prominent yellow roofs.
12) IV-, 20m. Follow a crack direct or slightly left to exit onto a large ledge just right of a yellow tower. © ROCKFAX