Rockfax Description
Connecting the two flakes is a bit of a stopper move. From a small ledge above the flakes finish direct. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 19/Nov/1988

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Luke Owens 23/Jul Lead RP

Never 3 stars, thought it was a poor unbalanced, wandering route and more like 6c+

Hidden 11/Jul Lead O/S
Robheirene 05/Jul Lead O/S

Not much to look at from below (compared with other climbs in the area), but gives some really nice climbing on good rock.

Rockmonkey1977 21/Jun Lead O/S

Very stiff start and some quite big dead point moves at various points. Was placing the QD's as I went so happy with the onsight. It felt more like 6c+ to me but I think it would be easier for taller climbers...

RichyBOYY 17/Jun Lead O/S
with Ben M
Hugobristol 01/Jun Lead O/S
with Liam
Sam4242 17/May Lead O/S
BillyDavies 17/May Lead RP

Red point.

Sam4242 16/May Lead dog
sam_craddock 04/May Lead RP
with Phil Belcher
tobydunford 22/Mar Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
philhaigh 09/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Mike Gubbins
3 Names 06/Jul/14 Lead dog
BenL 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Ryu
Graham Westbrook 25/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/13 Lead β
Hidden 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
paultaylor 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Grant
Graham Booth 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
brices 04/May/13 Lead O/S

not sure how this is top 50 in the dorest guide?

with Maya, Ben Vowles, Jamie
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd dog
marcduhig 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Richard
owenhancock22 30/Mar/13 TR dog
Hidden 09/Mar/13 2nd O/S
catt 24/Feb/13 Lead RP

Blew the OS by skin of the teeth slapping up to the break, blew the ground up with lanky beta that didn't work for me. Third go in the end as first route the next day. Really good.

georgel 23/Feb/13 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead O/S
Alex More 18/Nov/12 Lead
with KDhruev
KDhruev 18/Nov/12 Lead RP
rustaldo 10/Nov/12 Lead dog

weak! being hungover is always a convenient excuse.

with Aimee
Adam Booth 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Lots of really cool moves between rests.

MarkRyder 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead dog
gibsond 29/Sep/12 Lead RP

Disappointed not to OS this route - messed-up the move between between the flakes. Got it clean second go.

James Oswald 03/Sep/12 Lead RP

Fell off it twice on the crux. Really tough! Felt 6c+ at least. Nice little route which isn't over until it's over.

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead β
mark20 26/Aug/12 Lead β
Jake Young 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 10/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Intense little start, but awesome route. great fun.

with Laura Perry
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead
philhaigh 17/Jun/12 Lead RP
drewish 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Got a schweeet drop knee into the first flake made the second clip comfortable as.. excellent sustained climbing follows..

Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
rxmac 05/May/12 Lead O/S
philhaigh 01/May/12 Lead dog
with Murray Freestone, Natalie Haigh
Jonathan Emett 20/Nov/11 Lead dog

slipped off after the crux.

with Paul
dan gibson 21/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Barry Kerslake 10/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Ted
Sparky!!!3 20/May/11 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 TR dog
Alison2 21/Apr/11 2nd rpt

...easier than president elect

Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
London Luke ?/Apr/11 Lead
robandian ?/Apr/11 -
trevor macalonan 26/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Tim
drewclimber 26/Mar/11 TR dog
with craig, paul
drewclimber 26/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with paul
timharrison 26/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Mar/11 TR rpt
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 12/Feb/11 Lead dog
tscoobydoo ??/2011 Lead O/S

Amazing route..loved every minute of it.

Hidden 21/Nov/10 -
Luke Dawson 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S

good move rather wandery though

Ed Babs 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
willbatho 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

cool climb

Ceridwen 12/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with Andy
mikeshewring 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S

6c+ in CC guide

Ceridwen 07/Mar/10 TR dog
with Phil, Ivan
Hidden ??/2010 -
matthewjames 08/Sep/09 2nd dog
with Franco Tomba
Hidden 09/Aug/09 TR dog
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead dog
SiW ?/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Matt Shepherd 16/Oct/08 Lead RP
Matt Bennett 03/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/08 Lead β

The move between the flakes felt easier than the next move!

with Chunk
vertigo 26/Jul/08 Lead RP
Ben Harper 05/Jun/08 Lead RP
gidmord ?/Jun/08 Lead RP
garburn 12/May/08 Lead RP
dmoir 11/May/08 Lead RP
lukea 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Fred
feilx 19/May/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 19/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Moir, Felix Coxwell
Bargate_Champ 19/May/07 Lead dog
Brian Rodgers 06/May/07 Lead O/S
with Louise Rodgers
tumbling wizard ?/May/07 Lead
DrGav 08/Apr/07 Lead β

Unlikely start turns into a bunch of powerful moves with truly rewarding finish!

with Loic
chris sm 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
bigie bob 28/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
nathanmanc 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
timharrison 09/Jul/06 Lead rpt
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead RP
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
goi.ashmore 15/May/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Hidden 16/Feb/02 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
John Southworth ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/99 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 09/Apr/98 Lead RP
Ben Thorne ??/1998 Lead RP

Use this as the warm-up, so if it's 6c it's only due to the stiff pulling at the start. Hardest move is coming off the second flake and clipping the second bolt! Lovely route though.

with John Pullin
Hidden 18/Apr/93 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, lewiz, chris_woodsy, Hidden, RFWilkie
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set