Rockfax Description
One of Portland's very best routes, ascending the white headwall via some exquisite moves. Low in the grade. Start at a bolt-line just to the right of a low corner. Climb the lower wall and then make a rising traverse left to a thin crack and tiny corner. Climb the thin crack and finish up the right-hand bolt-line. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 25/Jul/1990

Ticklists: A Guide for Progress in Dorset, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s.

RFWilkie 27/Sep Lead dog

All the moves climbed, new project!

BRoe 30/Aug Lead G/U

2nd go, super close to the flash, feeling pretty good :)

with Pimnalishous
brices 28/Aug Lead RP

Great route

with Llinos
Hidden 15/Aug TR dog
Ian Bell 18/Jul Lead dog

Dogged up to put clips in and then 1 work on tr. tough but not impossible.

with Tania T
Hidden 11/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul Lead RP
anthony henry 03/Jul Lead RP

Lived up to the hype. Hard 7b+

with Andy
Andy Smallwood 03/Jul Lead dog
JCAshman ?/Jul Lead RP
samparsons 15/Jun Lead dog

On the list!

Hidden 14/Jun Lead RP
Andy Smallwood 13/Jun Lead dog
chrisscutt 13/Jun Lead RP

Awesome climb

with ant, oly
Hidden 13/Jun Lead RP
ollie_e 13/Jun Lead dog

Just superb, coming back for this soon. Should probably try and get some sleep the night before this time!!

littleluke 07/Jun Lead dog
Linc 25/May Lead RP
Dandan82 25/May Lead RP

Finally! My longest seige by quite a margin, probably 5 years from the first time I pulled on the route. I probably only had 10 redpoint attempts in all that time, but it's such a great route that it has always been in the back of my mind. Definitely one to return to again just for the joy of climbing it.

Hidden 17/May Lead rpt
Linc 10/May Lead dog
with louis
jonleighton 03/May Lead RP
Linc 02/May Lead dog
with louis
Hidden 01/May Lead dnf
Hidden ?/May -
Hidden 10/Apr Lead dnf
philhaigh 05/Apr 2nd dnf
with Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Eddy Young, Matt Ridgway
Dandan82 21/Mar Lead dog
afrosam 21/Mar Lead dog
dominic lee 14/Mar Lead RP

2nd go. Very cold.

with andy elliot
dominic lee 14/Mar Lead RP

2nd go. Very cold.

with andy elliot
Hidden 06/Mar Lead dnf
Hidden 05/Mar Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Feb TR dnf
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead RP
LJC 20/Nov/14 TR dog
with Lou, Jamie, George
Hidden 27/Sep/14 TR dog
Haydn Jones 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nathanlee 08/Sep/14 Lead RP

Fantastic route! Shame connies wearnt better.

with DWS Crew
Hidden 08/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 28/Aug/14 Lead RP
marek.pietrasz 16/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead dog
philhaigh 23/Jun/14 Lead RP

Love this climb. Amazing moves on beautiful rock.

drcorbasisgod 21/Jun/14 Lead dog
philhaigh 19/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Ed Babs, Mike Gubbins, Rob Kennard
philhaigh 15/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Mike Gubbins, Jane Weir, Murray Freestone
jacobjacob 15/Jun/14 Lead RP

Retroflash. There is no good mono

philhaigh 11/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Lee Mercer, Alex Dennis, Ed Babs, Shamina Kapadia
lewiz 31/May/14 Lead RP

Second go today. Easy all the way to the final hard move which was still a struggle. Chuffed.

lewiz 26/May/14 Lead dog

5 RP attempts over two days. Feels like I've made a lot of progress but last two attempts fell at the sidepully section before the final hard move. Skin very sore... next visit?

Hidden 11/Jan/14 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jan/14 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Oct/13 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Oct/13 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead dog
lewiz 14/Sep/13 Lead dog

Incredible moves, none too difficult but reasonably sustained. Project!

trev_f 01/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Sep/13 2nd dog
Hidden 31/Aug/13 TR dog
quiffhanger 31/Aug/13 Lead RP

2nd go. V close to the flash. Dropped on the final hard move :(

Joe Innes 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Max Lowry
philhaigh 26/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Mat Affourtit, Trev Ford, Ed Babs, Mike Gubbins, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
philhaigh 24/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Trev Ford, Mike Gubbins
philhaigh 22/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins
philhaigh 20/Aug/13 2nd dog

Half an attempt!

philhaigh 19/Aug/13 2nd dog
Wayne.Gaudin 10/Aug/13 TR dog

Hard to hold the crux pinch and sloping crimp

with Marcus
Wayne.Gaudin 10/Aug/13 TR dog

Hard to hold the crux pinch and sloping crimp

with Marcus
pezzerrr 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Jul/13 TR dog
david potts 24/Jul/13 Lead β
with Nat
Ed Babs 14/Jun/13 Lead RP

7 days, 10 falls off the last hard move and lots of beta and belaying. Thanks all. Counting the moves through the crux did it in the end. : )

Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
philhaigh 22/May/13 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
Luke Dawson 18/May/13 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 18/May/13 Lead β
trev_f 04/May/13 Lead dog

far too many Eds

with Eddie, Ed
brices 21/Apr/13 Lead dog

3 tiries, os got no where, 2nd go fell of the move to the jugs at top, 3rd climbed like crap

with Lisa, Gav
3 Names 17/Apr/13 TR dog
givemetea 17/Apr/13 TR dog
with Vince, Hazel
Hidden 17/Apr/13 TR dog
Kopinski ?/Mar/13 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2013 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead dog
Tomar 29/Sep/12 Lead RP

Finally. One of the best route i have done in Portland. Does not give in easily

with laurent
Hidden 07/Sep/12 Lead RP
Dan_Carroll 20/Aug/12 Lead dog
Ian Bell 30/Jun/12 Lead dnf

2 attempts lead. go stuck at the top going into the left hand crack. Awesome route, will be back!

with Daniel
Linc 17/Jun/12 2nd dnf
Dandan82 17/Jun/12 Lead dog
Jeronimo 27/May/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Reasonably close to o/s, quite pleased.

Cailean Harker 12/May/12 Lead RP

Blew the onsite on the last move! Great route

Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead RP
EllaRus 08/Apr/12 Lead RP

2nd go, great route

with john
Spacetourist 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
matt perks ??/2012 -
drysori ??/2012 Lead dog
Toby Dunn 15/Oct/11 Lead RP
with Sophie Nunn
catt 01/Oct/11 TR dog

Most moves sussed except the final hard move at the top.

with Hazel
Hidden 01/Oct/11 TR dog
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Sep/11 TR dog
dan gibson 21/Sep/11 Lead RP
with julie carroll
givemetea 16/Sep/11 TR dog

Tried first yesterday and got stuck at 4 different places. Had a second go today and did much better. Now just having a problem going up and right from the good in cut scoops to the side-pull undercut, and the moves around the penultimate bolt. definitely one to come back for.

Linc 03/Sep/11 2nd dog
Linc 03/Sep/11 2nd dog
Dandan82 03/Sep/11 Lead dog
jfreeman 12/Aug/11 Lead RP

Second go.

simonr 12/Aug/11 Lead dog

More stamina needed

drysori 30/Jul/11 TR dog

Awesome, but very sore fingers afterwards. Will return.

Bern 31/May/11 Lead RP

The top move kicked me off too many times! an excellent route, so happy to crack it:-)

with Derek
Hidden ?/May/11 TR dnf
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
Billg 03/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Will Calvert
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead dog
mark_wellin ??/2011 Lead dog

Good! Bottoms harder and the rest is more sustained than racing line, but the crux isn't as hard... Well it might be if you haven't got as long arms as I have.

Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead RP
Alex Mason 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Well chuffed to get the O/S. Some good moves keeping body close to the wall. Mostly good edges. Brill route.

with Laura Perry, Duncan Campbell, Mikey G
jgustafsson ?/Aug/10 Lead RP

A lot of effort, this one. Think fourth day on it, fell off the last hard move, I don't know, 6 times on redpoint?

with Dave
steve_biczyk 20/Sep/09 Lead dog

Close to O/S, fell once on the crux,didn't have time for another go.

with Huw, Marc, Emma Curry
marcpontin ?/Sep/09 Lead RP
with huw
Hidden 12/Jul/09 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Jun/09 Lead RP
schof 15/Jun/09 Lead RP
with joel perry
Marti999 01/Jun/09 Lead β
SiW ?/Jun/09 Lead dog

got the last crimp too far to the right and popped off. So close

eddieclimb 23/May/09 Lead RP

Great route, tough for grade but about right with a few fighting rests... really pleasing tick :)

with Rebecca Edwards
lukea 05/May/09 Lead dog
with Olaf
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead dog
hippo99 12/Apr/09 Lead RP
with andy em zoe
sam_cox 12/Apr/09 Lead

Second go! Thanks Schof for the Beta.

trev_f 20/Mar/09 TR dog
with Harry
Martin Krasnansky 20/Mar/09 Lead RP

dont climb when its dump:)

feilx 16/Nov/08 Lead RP
with Matt Perks
Richard Horn 02/Aug/08 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Jun/08 Lead dog
dannyboy83 18/May/08 Lead RP
robyn1 ??/2008 -
La Mont ??/2008 -
marky ?/Apr/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 15/Aug/06 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Apr/06 Lead RP
feeko ??/2006 -
Paz 19/Nov/05 Lead dog
with FM
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead RP
John Southworth 08/Jun/02 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
sadams 01/Aug/98 Lead RP
with Pete Bukowski
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Seb Lee, Hidden, Hidden, stevoland, samparsons, Kassius, Hidden, Monkeyboy, Hidden, Hidden, Matt Fry, Hidden, Oliver Tilbury, stp, Hidden, Hidden, brices, Hidden, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, RFWilkie, JCAshman, Tangerine_Kingdom, DJ Nelson, Ian Bell, givemetea, Hidden, JKay, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dandan82, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ezy Ryder
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set