|130m, 6 pitches. |
This quirky climb is a must for anyone with a taste for the unusual, or for those that just want to scare themselves silly.
It is now considered a classic climb but is actually a combination of three separate routes. It begins following the Dibona Chimney before branching left onto the Stösser/Schütt to gain the summit of Torre Leo. Finally its follows the master that was Hans Dülfer in his 'step' across to Torre del Diavolo.
The grade of the route is somewhat arbitrary, as it all depends on the all-important step; those with short legs beware, the bridging move between Torre Leo and Diavolo is 1.5m wide - a good test of flexibility.
Start below a yellow niche, right of the chimney between the towers.
1) V, 30m. Follow a ramp easily left to the base of the chimney between the towers. Climb this and pull past a chockstone to a stance above.
2) IV+, 35m. Continue up the chimney, passing two chockstones, then move right around a third to belay on top.
3) V, 30m. Move up and left then traverse a slab towards the arete then, just before this, climb a crack direct to reach the arete itself. Move around to the left of this and climb direct to belay below a crack.
4) III, 10m. Follow the crack, trending slightly left, to reach a stance just below the summit of Torre Leo.
5) VI-, 20m. Either abseil or down climb for 15m to reach the narrowest point between the towers. Make the step as gracefully as you can then climb the opposite wall for 5m to a stance.
6) V, 20m. Follow a flake left of the belay then climb the crack above direct to the base of a chimney.
7) IV+, 30m. Follow the chimney in its entirety to reach the summit. © ROCKFAX