Situated in the middle of the exposed south face, this is a nice alternative to the often-crowded Spigolo Giallo. The route can feel intimidating with some amazing exposure. The rock was initially quite loose but it has cleaned nicely over the years, but care must still be taken particularly along the prominent yellow flake, which is still loose in places. Be especially aware when there are parties above.
Start 20m before the top of the scree fan to the left of Spigolo Giallo, below a left-trending chimney.
1) IV, 45m. Climb the chimney to reach a two-bolt belay.
2) VI+, 30m. Ascend a further 4m in the chimney then move right to a yellow flake. Climb the flake's well-pegged crack then move 7m right. Climb a grey overhang direct to reach a stance on the left.
3) IV+, 40m. Climb a grey ramp diagonally right, move right out of the ramp to climb a short corner then exit right to easier ground.
4) III, 20m. Follow a crack diagonally right to a comfortable stance below roofs.
5) V+, 25m. Step right then climb a wet chimney crack direct to the roofs. Climb through the roofs on their right to belay below a left-trending crack.
6) VI, 35m. Climb the crack, move right and continue in the crack, taking care on the loose flake to its left. Belay by a detached flake.
7) V, 30m. Continue following the line of the crack, by the prominent yellow flake, to a belay below a small roof.
8) V, 25m. Continue in the crack, moving behind the flake, and exit left by a large chockstone onto the ledge.
9) V, 25m. Move left of the chockstone and climb the right-hand of two parallel cracks. Move right then back left with easy scrambling.
10) V, 25m. Move right and climb a corner left, then continue with enjoyable crack climbing to a good terrace.
11) IV+, 40m. Climb direct to enter the final gully (exiting left leads to the descent route). Continue direct to reach the subsidiary summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Sustained, bold and intimidating.