Don Quixote*** VI+
[Nice pocketed rock on the Marmolada, 2 kb]750m, 22 pitches. Grade 6 UIAA. Don Quixote is justifiably the classic line and, consequently, also the most repeated on the wall. The route climbs the characteristic rounded arête and pillar to the right of the routes Conforto - Bertoldi and Phillipp - Henger. It starts up a series of streaks, easy steps and grey slabs first leftwards than rightwards, to then continue up a series of fantastically compact limestone. After the ledge at mid-height the route becomes even more interesting, to finish up some incomparably beautiful grey slabs.

Photo: Nice pocketed rock on the Marmolada © Heike
View all 5 photos or

This climb is in 17 logbooks, and on 37 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/13

Aaron Lines - AltLd - 08/Sep/12 with stu

Simon Allcock - 2nd - 18/Aug/12 with Wilki

Brilliant! We managed to pull it off on the last day of holidays. Stayed in the hut which aided early start. Started climbing about 6am, topped out about 1:30pm so made the cable car which was the best spent 12 euros of the trip!. The hut was about 30ish euros and you get some breakfast so minimal phaff. The climbing on the crux pitch is hard and very strenuous in my opinion but can be bypassed more easily with the use of in situ pegs if time is pressing etc. Will be returning for more
whistler - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Mark Littlewood

~ 8 hours. Made the cable car which was nice.
drysori - AltLd - 07/Jul/12 with Sam Burns

six hours. passed lots of parties low down. .The top pillar is excellent
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/11 with richard lade

chapmand - AltLd - 17/Aug/10 with Pete Rhodes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/09

Led pitches 1 to 7 I think. A good day out slowed by a party in front and some of our own antics. The bottom half is a bit non-descript but the top pitches are stunning. The crux pitch is 3* in its own right
chris wyatt - 26/Jul/09 with Dan cook and Nik Goile

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/09

Steve lead all but two easy pitches, found crux (harder than HVS) and pitch above very difficult, had to pull on lots. Just made cable car back down.
tommytuffa - 2nd dog - Jul/09 with steve

I hint of french free for the crux. Fine route. 8hrs on the rock. In a day from the valley. Easily done if your partner insists on starting the walk in at 3am. The crux is at least E1 but easily aided on the numerous pegs.
decs - AltLd - 03/Aug/08 with Sam

sgl - AltLd - 03/Aug/08 with duncan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/07

Used a point of aid above supposed crux crack near the top
NickJH - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Andy Dunhill

Hidden - Lead - Jul/98

michaelja - AltLd dog - Aug/90

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Nath93, sparkass, UKC Testing, Kate Edhouse, Alan100, ChrisBrooke, ian1234567, AlanLittle, Hanakin, JRae, moorsy88, Matt250, michael00693, runninginclouds, williamsd79, thomaspomfrett, ben.richards, Chris Ridgers, Mr Tickle, willworkforfoodjnr, pete87abs, Sankey, zach.stone, Dr Caterpillar, rob askew, IanJackson
Total votes cast 8
hard VII-0 of 3
VII-0 of 3
easy VII-0 of 3
hard VI+1 of 3
VI+0 of 3
easy VI+2 of 3
hard VI0 of 3
VI0 of 3
easy VI0 of 3
3 Stars5 of 5
2 Stars0 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.