Rockfax Description
A Wallsend classic that sees plenty of ascents. A lovely pitch on great rock. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge below a shallow corner. Climb the rib just left of the corner to gain the wall proper and easier climbing. Follow the wall to a thin crack. Climb the thin crack to a final leaning headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 7.11.92 07/Nov/1992

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ICAS Climbing Club, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Martin Bagshaw 05/Sep Lead O/S
with Tom Hudson, Catherine Smith
Katsmiff 05/Sep TR O/S

Nice climb, nothing to hard.

tash 15/Aug Lead rpt

Baking hot but still a great route :-)

with Chris T
elliptic 15/Aug Lead O/S
with Tash K.
JackMac 25/Jul Lead rpt

Definitely more pumpy than Stalkers Zone.

with Dan 85
Luke Owens 25/Jul Lead O/S

Best 6b in the UK? Amazing line, great rock, really "out there" at the top.

samparsons 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Emmie
FlavioL1989 18/Jul Lead O/S
with Rob Edwards
tash 18/Jul Lead rpt
with ali k
dswansonlow 10/Jul Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Hidden 30/Jun Lead O/S
James_L88 06/Jun Lead dnf

There is a seagull nest on the adjacent line - got swooped at by seagull at about 3/4 height and backed off. Brilliant climbing up to that point though!

with Debbie Hoskins, Karl Gregory
Hidden 05/Jun Lead O/S
Ben Russell 27/May Lead O/S
tash 16/May Lead dog

Was tired and got scared in the groove, but amazing climbing - I'll be back!

with ali k
philhaigh 12/May Lead rpt
with Ed Babs
Hidden 10/May TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Apr Lead O/S
Steph Roberts 19/Apr TR O/S
with Rob Gates, Sam
Hidden 18/Apr Lead
Hidden 18/Apr Lead
ReubenS1990 ?/Apr Lead O/S
Montecore 21/Mar Lead O/S
with Matt Ray
dbrooks 18/Jan Lead O/S

Top section was soaking

with Dr Dave
kingborris ??/2015 -
roberts1234567890 04/Oct/14 Lead
nath_casper 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Sam4242 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Vince 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eric Pieuchot
Renna Clifford 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lovely sustained climbing with a slight crux for the short around the midway point. Bit of a tricky start but great holds all the way on beautiful quality limestone which enables you to climb through the pump!

Renna Clifford 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lovely sustained climbing with a slight crux for the short around the midway point. Bit of a tricky start but great holds all the way on beautiful quality limestone which enables you to climb through the pump!

Aaron.Clifford 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Graham Giles
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 09/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BenL 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pymn nice but dim 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

One of the est 6bs ive done

brices 25/May/14 Lead O/S


with Llinos, Gav
Lee_Meaden 05/May/14 TR O/S
JackMac 04/May/14 Lead RP
with Dan 85
Dan 85 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jack
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Nick Russell 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

6a+ in the CC guide, felt pretty stiff! After a tricky start, some really great climbing on highly textured rock that was more reminiscent of Pembroke than elsewhere in Portland. Doesn't seem to have had much traffic recently judging by the plant life in the crack.

Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
gg4419 29/Dec/13 Lead O/S

If it was any colder this would have been an ice route with the amount of water on it, lovely climb though.

with Justin
Peter Lovell 05/Oct/13 Lead β
LucasHarazin 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jas128 20/Sep/13 TR dog
Graham Westbrook 16/Sep/13 Lead β
mark20 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
maybe_si 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Ali 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 22/Aug/13 TR O/S
adamjeffs 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead
philmcf ?/Aug/13 TR dog
DJ Nelson 15/Jul/13 Lead RP

Slipped off greasy hold at first clip- then sent clean onsight.

Jay-Ast 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
julesmckim 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alex Renshaw
AlexRenshaw 15/Jun/13 Lead
Marti999 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Debbie
nataliehaigh 01/Jun/13 2nd dnf
with Mike Gubbins, Phil Haigh
Adam Booth 26/May/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
lewiz 18/May/13 Lead O/S
littleluke 05/May/13 -
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead
dan gibson 25/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gibsond 02/Sep/12 Lead dog

Not good conditions. Bottom crack very greasy. Took two goes to workout the move up from second bolt. Then on next go was so tired at the top I missed a foot placement on the crack and could not hang on any longer - not used to 30m routes. Will RP next time.

ian caton 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Abi
dan gibson 23/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with julie carroll, helen gibson
Helen Gibson 23/Aug/12 TR O/S
with Julie, dan
Julie Carroll 23/Aug/12 Lead
with Helen Gibson, Dan Gibson
BeccaSnowden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Very good.

CRiddiford 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Becca
Dibdawg 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Clark
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Jaime Mitchell 30/Jun/12 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead dog
billb ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead O/S
Alex Norman 31/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead rpt
philhaigh 26/May/12 Lead RP
yarrow 21/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mark C
Harry Thorpe 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 20/May/12 Lead O/S
josh_smith_90 20/May/12 2nd
will black ?/May/12 Lead β
GarethHall 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
matt_read 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Amazing route....sustained with rest's in places just when you need them! First 6B lead outdoors!

Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead O/S
paultaylor 07/Jan/12 Lead
with Grant, maffer the faffer
Hidden ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Tommyads ??/2012 -
julesmckim 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Quite sustained, damp at start

with dave lewis, Mickie Streule
PeterDawson 20/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Danny Crump 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Andrew Porter, Michael Porter, Sarah Pentelow
catt 02/Oct/11 Lead dog

Good, pumpy, exciting. Bit too exciting on the day.

with Hazel
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 30/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with rupe
Rupey 30/Sep/11 TR dog
Luke Dawson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead β
Linc 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Marti999 29/Aug/11 Lead rpt
clipskipper 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Was a little damp, which made the start a bit threatening, and the whole thing quite pumpy

with Dave A
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Misha 14/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice climb but again felt hard for the grade. Great name!

with Phil
philhilo 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with misha
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 14/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with CC meet
Abi Chard 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
AlexD 04/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Roger
Oli 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Tomlinson, Alex Barrows
Hidden 18/Sep/10 TR RP
Tomar 31/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with marcus
thomasmouse 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
toasted 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with maxpie
Alex More 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Martin Slovac
mark_wellin 15/May/10 Lead O/S
koalapie ?/May/10 Lead RP
philhaigh 26/Apr/10 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead rpt
tommytuffa 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with tomar
Tomar 17/Apr/10 Lead RP

2nd go

with Tom
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Dandan82 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Steve Taylor
steve taylor 29/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Trev Ford
Hidden 20/Aug/09 TR rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Solo O/S
mynameisjen 16/Aug/09 Lead β
w.pettet-smith 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S

upper grey slab absolutely brilliant. first route of the day and felt quite scary.

Ceridwen 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Ivan
Luke d 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S

so good

Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead rpt
briar4012 10/May/09 TR dog
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead rpt
garburn 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/09 Lead β
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2009 -
Dave Rumney 11/Oct/08 -
with Sean Roberts
silhouette 27/Sep/08 Lead β
with Crimponite123
Jonathan Emett 17/Sep/08 Lead dog

a very unstylish ascent. must try harder.

with Matt
Matt Bennett 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S
feilx 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
Andrew Barker 12/Aug/08 Lead β
with Matt Booth
Ed Babs 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Roger
Hidden 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Shona H ??/2008 TR
with Mark Brown
robyn1 ??/2008 -
Jake Shaw ??/2008 Lead rpt
tonanf ?/Nov/07 AltLd RP
with Pep
simonf 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Chris
tobydunford 28/Aug/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Moir, Felix Coxwell
theloringharvey ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jon Partridge
steve taylor 28/Apr/07 Lead
with ouzo john
bigie bob 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 -
Oliver Sherman 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Raine, John Eales
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
chris sm 16/Sep/06 Lead dog
with Pippa Froggatt
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 TR β
Hidden ??/2004 -
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/03 Lead β
Hidden 08/Sep/02 Lead
Rock Fairy ?/Jun/02 2nd
with david
goi.ashmore 10/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden 20/May/00 Lead O/S
Ben Thorne ??/2000 Lead dog

Took a 30-footer when I was so pumped I couldn't hold on, but my belayer was too interested in topping up his tan!

with James Dunlop
Robmwatt ??/2000 Lead
shoulders 10/Oct/99 Lead
with mart, andy sharp, pete lewis, dai
Kevster 21/Jun/99 2nd
Mark Kemball 04/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with Rob Galley
Hidden 26/Mar/99 Lead
sadams 01/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Pete Bukowski
Neil R 30/Mar/97 2nd
with Richard W
phardman 28/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
rob.grafton 10/Jun/96 Lead
with Bruce
Mike Owen 02/Jun/95 -
with Elaine Owen
Roget 15/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
shark ??/1995 Lead O/S
with John Codling
Nigel Coe ??/1993 -

Approx date

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dsefton1403, alex goodall, Mouse Matt, AshleyLong, James Yearsley, Ed Houghton, Hidden, James.Burnett, Hawkgirl, Hidden, chris_woodsy, stp, mop449, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, sarah hawker, Jaime Mitchell, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Lane, Hidden, Daniel Wrightson, RFWilkie, Hidden, A Downing, Hidden, Mowglee, SuseH, Ezy Ryder, poey50, Hidden, jl, Hidden
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set