3817m.

Rockfax Description
I, 100m, 1 - 2 hours. An excellent, short climb which lacks technical difficulties but not exposure.
Approach - Descend the Aiguille du Midi via the famous snow ridge before swinging around west and passing under the Midi South Face, Arête des Cosmiques and Refuge des Cosmiques to reach the foot of the route.
1) The ridge can be joined almost anywhere within 100m of the Col du Midi, but the most enjoyable scrambling is found by starting in a small snow bay just to the left of where the rock solidifies considerably.
2) Climb leftwards up a ramp before turning right and following the ridge on its crest, turning difficulties on the left.
3) 4b. Halfway to the refuge there is an awkward slab which can either downclimbed (4b) or abseiled (5m). From the foot of the slab, return to the ridge crest and continue along the ridge in a stunning position to reach the terrace at the back of the Refuge des Cosmiques.
Descent - Return to the Aiguille du Midi. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not sure of grade-possibly AD-. The alternative route if weather is too bad to do Cosmiques Ridge. Starts from Col du Midi (3532m). As you walk away from aiguille du midi turn right to approach the ridge running south west of cosmiques hut (3817m). Mixed scramble and easy climbing but very exposed climbing across l'arete a laurence. Whole route very exposed with a particularly scary traverse near the end probably best done with some protection. A ladder at the end of the route takes you in to the back entrance of the cosmiques hut.

UPDATE: Large loose block (small lorry size) that is waiting to go down the north face near the hut end, the route traverses over the block. Would easily cut rope/slings if used for protection. Could be avoided by a very dangerous scree traverse below the block.


ClimberDateStyle
TomAlford 19/Sep Lead O/S

Waist deep snow on the entry slabs

Hidden 04/Sep Solo
chris357 13/Aug Lead
PondLife 01/Aug 2nd
with Mauro & Nigel
Hidden 20/Jul -
DavidWilby 15/Jul 2nd

On last day of PyB Alpine Essentials Course.

with Anna
edhawk21 13/Jul -

With icicle mountaineering. Terrible weather, strong winds and snow but at least it was warm in the hut.

Scott Anderson 09/Jul AltLd O/S

Did this instead of Contamine - Mizaud as conditions weren't favourable. Cracking exposure but not technically hard

with Matt
Mr Fuller 09/Jul AltLd O/S

Nice little route, some good positions. This is nowhere near AD though and more like Facile... very short, easy descent, next to a hut, quick access, not very high, requires use of hands on very little of the ridge, good opportunities for protection. Either way, it's a great route.

with Scott
CameronH 03/Jul -
Hidden 02/Jul AltLd O/S
Naomi.P 01/Jul -

Conville course. Moved together. Relaxed and fun route.

with Leo H
Rob Pitt 01/Jul AltLd O/S
with Lou
leopolian 01/Jul AltLd O/S

Done on the Conville Course. Very nice and relaxed route. Nice exposure and nothing too technical. Really enjoyed it.

Jake397 ?/Jul -
jamesb101 29/Jun Lead O/S
Michael Bonallie 28/Jun AltLd
with Joe Daly
Martin Haworth 27/Jun Lead O/S
Joel Miller 23/Jun -
SWhite10 23/Jun Lead O/S

First alpine route!

Stuart Hurworth 23/Jun AltLd O/S

On Conville course, moved together. Easy but exposed ridge, fun and apparently a lot of snow making it easier than normal.

Hidden 23/Jun AltLd O/S
Sarah Roscoe 23/Jun AltLd

conville course

Stephen3005 22/Jun Lead
Peter Rosso 20/Jun AltLd O/S
with Alasdair Robertson
JoeMortimer 20/Jun AltLd
with Alfie
Nick Arthur 20/Jun 2nd

Day two of the conville course, stunning weather, so much snow!

amaun 20/Jun AltLd rpt
Hidden 19/Jun Solo
Hidden 19/Jun 2nd
JennyBroomby 18/Jun -
Hidden 17/Jun Lead O/S
adawson 10/Jun AltLd

First alpine route on the final day of Conville in sunshine and clear skies. Moved together finishing at the Cosmiques hut then back on to the Vallée Blanch to practice crevasse rescue and back up the Midi Arete.

with Ashley King, Conville Dan, Richard Mansfield
Ashley King 10/Jun AltLd

First alpine route. Short but very fun, would do again.

with adawson
lucyvass 10/Jun -
teh_mark 06/Jun -

A few mixed steps towards the end, but mostly entirely a snow ridge. Very easy, but felt serious in the conditions.

with Mike Daniels
Claire Noble 06/Jun -

First alpine route on the second day of Conville. Fun route, made easier by the fact it was very snowy. Moved together, placing some runners.

JenShelley 29/Dec/15 -

Did this twice! Once south to north, moving together for all but the traverse near the end. Got to the platform at the Cosmiques Refuge, and the door was locked and no other way off the platform! So had to do the route again north to south in double quick time then race across the Col du Midi to avoid missing the last cable car.

with Mike
MichaelGallimore 29/Dec/15 Lead

Moved together then pitched the downward traverse. Cosmiques hut was closed so we had to reverse the route and run across the col and back up the arête du midi to catch the last cable car. Very tiring as it was only our second day at altitude.

l21bjd 18/Sep/15 -

Climbed as a two, with (unroped) guide giving directions. Lots of fresh snow on route.

SJames 12/Sep/15 -
zcsharp 18/Aug/15 AltLd
steve_gibbs 18/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
Dawn_K_B 06/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Before the Cosmiques. Dry but nice rock.

Sam Ash 06/Aug/15 AltLd
Zoe Cockburn ?/Aug/15 -
Kinge 14/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Owen Williams
Hidden 03/Jul/15 -
JdotP ?/Jul/15 -
with The innocent one, Magda Borkowska
Hidden 26/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
smithjmw46 26/Jun/15 -
edjenkins 26/Jun/15 -

Final day of Conville

Rebs 22/Jun/15 Lead
with Rob
adam.wood 22/Jun/15 -

Second day of conville with Ponte lachenal for a good acclim day

John1458 22/Jun/15 -

Second day of Conville Course

Hidden 22/Jun/15 -
DanOsb 18/Jun/15 -
J_Trottet 16/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
amaun 16/Jun/15 AltLd
with John Kitching, Jocelyn Trottet
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Solo
Hidden 09/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 04/Jun/15 -
Hugh Simons 04/Jun/15 -
calumhicks 04/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Hugh Simons, Adam Harris
Hidden ?/Jun/15 -
Eagertom ?/Jun/15 2nd
emilyjhunt ?/Jun/15 2nd
with Phil Dowthwaite, Ruth Sullivan
Hidden 06/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
bedsforsleepypeople ??/2015 -
Simon Gompertz 09/Oct/14 -

Pleasant scramble with a bit of protection needed along the way. Crampons off.

James Charatan 09/Oct/14 -
Jordangask 10/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
hp8g12 10/Sep/14 AltLd
DigitalSteak 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
jhobbs 18/Jul/14 -
Hidden 27/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/14 2nd β
heathergotrumbled 12/Jun/14 2nd O/S

First rock outing in crampons. Exposed and scary but will probably end up being type 3 fun.

with ST
s.tietz 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed route during Conville Course (our guide was Dave). Moved together for most of it. Rock traverse towards the end required a bit of belaying. Had half of an 8€ omelette in the Cosmique hut afterwards, which didn't stay down due to altitude sickness.

with Klaudia Konkolova, Heather Rumble
Tommy Moore 09/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Moving together.

with Richard Ive, Philly Betts
magik_bob 09/Jun/14 -
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
adamwesthead 20/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Totally different to last time now snow covered

with Dad, Forshaw
Mick Riley 19/Sep/13 2nd

Winter conditions and high wind

wilkinscl 11/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Very snowy, very easy going for the most part with the odd 'move'. Exposure is fantastic in sections. Especially as snow bridges had formed between the boulders leading to my second post holing into space more than once.

morpcat 11/Sep/13 2nd

Moved together with rock spikes for pro. Nice route if you like crazy amounts of exposure.

adamwesthead 07/Sep/13 Solo O/S

No snow at all. Just a scramble. Did an awkward abseil down the slab traverse.

with Zeb
zebster 07/Sep/13 Solo O/S
with Adam
jack.williams1 05/Sep/13 AltLd
masmith 05/Sep/13 AltLd
with Cathy Burke, Jack Williams
chris357 27/Jul/13 -
Hidden 19/Jul/13 Lead
BoulderyDave 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Very lean but a great route.

Hidden 13/Jul/13 2nd
OwenDT 05/Jul/13 AltLd
Alpenglow 05/Jul/13 AltLd

Moved together. Done with Conville course.

Hidden 05/Jul/13 -
Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jul/13 -
steve_gibbs 02/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Al Docherty
Hidden 28/Jun/13 2nd O/S
2010_graham 28/Jun/13 -
KatOstrich 28/Jun/13 2nd

Conville

Charlotte Nelson 17/Jun/13 -
Brian Pollock 11/Jun/13 Lead O/S
rashwell ?/Jun/13 2nd

First Alpine route

AdamH ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Jordangask 07/Sep/12 AltLd
Jordangask 05/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/12 AltLd
wendynicholls 18/Jul/12 AltLd

Led the arête as far as hut.

with Dominic Saul, Richard DuPont
Hidden 08/Jul/12 Lead
masmith 05/Jul/12 AltLd
with Michael Mason, Jamie Roberts
jimmatthews 05/Jul/12 Lead

Conville Course Day 2

AMJ098 03/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
franksnb ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

nice way to get to the cosmique hut. 1 hour

android_lloyd ?/Jul/12 -
OwenF ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Stormed over it in a huff, sorry James!

stewart100 30/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
AMJ098 30/Jun/12 AltLd
trivett 26/Jun/12 -

On the conville course in awful weather!

with Luke Davies, Luke Dyer
jon_ridley 22/Jun/12 AltLd
becoming-stranger 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Emily Cropton 22/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 16/Jun/12 -
Hidden 16/Jun/12 -
Hidden 05/Jun/12 2nd
barneythevelociraptor ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Definetly harder than PD+, exposure was immmense and wouldn't have wanted to do the moves without protection. Amazing climb but completed in about an hour being chased from a storm of Tacul

TheFatClimber ??/2012 -
The Bad Cough 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
jon22 31/Jul/11 2nd
Strachan ?/Jul/11 -

Conville

Petarghh 12/Jun/11 -
perfectvirus 15/Sep/09 -
with MountainMing
MountainMing 15/Sep/09 Lead

Rigde of death! 60m wind, snow and huge exposure

with perfectvirus
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, mrphilipoldham, nickstephens, mja521, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
High PD-
Mid PD-
Low PD-
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set