Dorset > Coastguard North >
 
Superfly Guy*** 7a

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[Dan Holdsworth on Superfly Guy, Coastguard North, Dorset, 2 kb]22m. A quality pitch. Climb up and then left, past some good pockets to a large hold below the upper wall. Make some difficult moves to a slim groove. Follow this, and the wall to its right, to the top. © ROCKFAX
Unconfirmed report of hold loss between 3rd and 4th bolt, possible now harder than 7a.
FA. Pete Oxley 8.8.88 08/Aug/1988

Ticklists: A Guide for Progress in Dorset, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a.

Photo: Dan Holdsworth on Superfly Guy, Coastguard North, Dorset © Chris Shorter
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 117 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Quick go on someone's else's tr. nice, powerful at the bottom
Ian Bell - TR dog - 27/Sep/14 with Jasmina

RadekNowak - Lead RP - 27/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14

The best 6b+ on Portland!
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead β - 03/Aug/14

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 29/Jul/14 with Shamina Kapadia

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Jul/14

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/14 with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan

Need this clean getting closer.
samparsons - Lead dog - 29/Jun/14 with Emmie

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Drew

Brilliant. 2nd go
drewish - Lead RP - 29/Jun/14 with Phil Belcher

Amazing route, tough to read but cool positions. My second 7a on sight. gotta keep this pattern up!
pymn nice but dim - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Sam Parsons

Lots of chalk on it so felt fairly easy to onsight.
Pete Scott - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/14 with Alex Dennis, Vicki Hau, Natalie Haigh

AlexD - Lead RP - 25/Jun/14 with Phil, Nat, Vicky

Need clean, another great route!
samparsons - 2nd - 25/Jun/14

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Aarron Schofield, Rob Gates, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Jane Weir, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young, Murray Freestone, Natalie Haigh

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Jun/14

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14

Felt hard, more like 7a+. Loved it though, some great moves higher up after those hard pockets!
Julie Carroll - Lead RP - 16/Jun/14 with Dan Gibson

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/14 with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake

Barry Kerslake - Lead RP - 16/Jun/14 with Shamina Kapadia, Phil Haigh, Mike G

Too hard for a warmup, especially when wet. Fell off. 2nd go.
quiffhanger - Lead RP - 15/Jun/14 with Jon

jonleighton - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/14

philhaigh - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/14 with Aarron Schofield, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/14

Bern - Lead RP - May/14 with Richard White

Dropped the onsight but got it 2nd go.
Graham Westbrook - Lead RP - 17/Oct/13

Got it clean after dropping the first and second (stupidly forgot the heal hook to transition into the pocket) attempt. Shoudl have had in two. Good climb!
richardashe - Lead RP - 17/Oct/13 with graham westbrook

tiffanykate12 - 2nd dog - 06/Oct/13

mrteale - Lead RP - 27/Sep/13

mark20 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/13

BenL - Lead RP - 26/Aug/13 with Angus Webb

Claudia Harvey - Lead RP - 11/Aug/13 with Rachel Keys

Tried to onsight but fell early on so lowered off and then did it clean, but got very very pumped trying to work it out!
jonleighton - Lead RP - 10/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Aug/13

philhaigh - 2nd rpt - 06/Jul/13 with Mat Affourtit, Rob Gates, Mike Gubbins, Murray Freestone, Gem Minihan

philhaigh - Lead RP - 30/Jun/13 with Mat Affourtit, Barry Kerslake, Natalie Haigh

All holds are fine - soft 7a if you find the good crimp just before the upper groove
Billg - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Rob Mcallister, Alan Rosier

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - May/13

Tommyads - 2013

Peter Dickinson - Lead RP - 12/Aug/12 with Asha Osbon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

dan gibson - Lead RP - 05/Jul/12 with julie carroll

3rd RP
Adam Booth - Lead RP - 22/Jun/12 with Ellen Cobby

Garrouli - Lead RP - 01/Jun/12 with Jak

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/12 with Prajak

7a max - really good!
tom106 - Lead O/S - 31/May/12 with dannyb

Hidden - Lead RP - 31/May/12

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Si Brice

th emost ridculous method used to onsight it, then tom crused it using a hold i didnt see
brices - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Tom H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

Very nice 7a
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Martyn

katiep - TR dog - 14/Mar/12 with Tom Taylor

Hidden - TR β - 14/Mar/12

Sophie Nunn - Lead dnf - 23/Oct/11 with Alex

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Jon Emmet

AlexD - Lead dnf - 23/Oct/11 with Sophie

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - Jul/11 with Charles Dawson, Peter Dawson

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Apr/11

Hidden - TR dog - 09/Apr/11

7a+ in the new guide, ill take it. awesome to get the flash. awesome route from start to finish
mark_wellin - Lead β - 31/Jul/10

Ceridwen - 2nd dnf - 18/Jul/10 with Andy

Hidden - Lead RP - 18/Jul/10

Nice and sustained all the way to the rest in the groove. Didn't see any evidence of hold loss, certainly nothing crucial. Solid 7a.
vertigo - Lead RP - 09/Jun/10 with Mark Ryder

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 09/Jun/10 with Rich

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Jun/10

feilx - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/10 with Rich Dagner

Hidden - Lead RP - 04/Jun/10

Ed Babs - Lead RP - 23/Apr/10 with Trevor

Alex More - TR dog - 14/Apr/10 with Ed babs

feilx - Lead dog - 2010 with jon biddle

Hidden - Lead RP - 2010

Copped a down pour whilst on the pocket jug.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/09 with Geoff

very nice- quite intricate in the upper groove, felt a bit worried on the 2nd or 3rd bolt.two redpoints then it got dark. send it next time.
w.pettet-smith - Lead dog - 08/Aug/09 with josh and steve

Good climb, would be hard to spot the crucial crimp at crux if not chalked though!
derico - Lead β - 08/Jun/09 with Jonny

Glyn - Lead RP - 07/Jun/09 with Dave Pattinson

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Jun/09

trev_f - Lead RP - 05/Jun/09 with Tash

Second go. First go got fingers stuck in mono and tried to slap to the jug but fell off as i didnt hit it. gutted as its a big jug! Sent second go after rest.
Ed Booth - Lead RP - 05/Jun/09 with Andy Long

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/May/09

Jus - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 09/May/09

nealh - Lead - 2009

Alex More - TR dog - 2009 with bob

schof - Lead RP - 01/Aug/08 with martin slovak

Martin Krasnansky - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08

feilx - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Heather

JPGR - Lead - 10/May/08 with Steve

Richard Horn - Lead RP - 07/Jul/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06

onsight
lx - Lead - 20/Sep/06 with rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/06

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/May/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/06

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

Boy - 2006

sollyf - 2006

feeko - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

eddieclimb - Lead RP - 11/Aug/05 with Dan Savory, Jason Parker

pezzerrr - Lead RP - 2003

Mark Kemball - Lead - 15/Sep/02 with Nic Dill

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 08/May/02 with Duncan Powell

John Southworth - 2001

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Richard White - 2000

Tried it several times, couldn't put it together in one. Almost a decade ago, so might try again!
Ben Thorne - Lead dog - 2000 with Jimbo, John Pullin

buzby78 - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/96

Mike Owen - 01/Jun/95 with Elaine Owen

shark - Lead O/S - 1995 with John Codling

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1993

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chris_woodsy, lewiz, Hidden, Dan_F, JackMac, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, Hidden, flashpanther, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 86
hard 7a+0 of 44
7a+0 of 44
easy 7a+2 of 44
hard 7a7 of 44
7a28 of 44
easy 7a4 of 44
hard 6c+2 of 44
6c+0 of 44
easy 6c+1 of 44
3 Stars26 of 42
2 Stars14 of 42
1 Star2 of 42
0 Stars0 of 42
Bag of .....0 of 42
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Style of ascent

Lead94 of 117 (80.3%)
Followed8 of 117 (6.8%)
Toproped6 of 117 (5.1%)
Unknown9 of 117 (7.7%)

'Climbed'18 of 117 (15.4%)
clean O/S26 of 117 (22.2%)
clean β8 of 117 (6.8%)
clean rpt10 of 117 (8.5%)
clean RP37 of 117 (31.6%)
dogged14 of 117 (12.0%)
dnf4 of 117 (3.4%)