Rockfax Description
A quality pitch. Climb up and then left, past some good pockets to a large hold below the upper wall. Make some difficult moves to a slim groove. Follow this, and the wall to its right, to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Unconfirmed report of hold loss between 3rd and 4th bolt, possible now harder than 7a.

FA. Pete Oxley 8.8.88 08/Aug/1988

Ticklists: A Guide for Progress in Dorset, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a.

lawsy_boy1 25/Oct Lead
Matt.c.Warner 17/Oct Lead RP
with Emily
richiebongo 03/Oct Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
philhaigh 08/Aug Lead rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh
chris_woodsy 18/Jul Lead RP
Rockmonkey1977 05/Jul Lead RP

Second go, lose points as I already had the rope through the 3rd QD after my first attempt though... Varied route, very nice

pezzerrr 05/Jul Lead O/S
Kevster 21/Jun Lead O/S
tonevert 21/Jun Lead dog
with Kevin Faux
RichyBOYY 18/Jun Lead RP

Really sick route - sustained technical climbing, was pretty pumpe too - well enjoyed it

with Ben M
Ross.Cooper 13/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 13/Jun Lead β
Owen Diba ?/Jun TR
afrosam 30/May Lead RP
Trisha Murphy 30/May 2nd
tombrol 30/May Lead RP
with Pawel Kedzierski
samparsons 25/May Lead G/U

Finally!!! That has to be one of my favourite climbs just so good from the bottom to the top.

professorcobra 24/May Lead RP
Hidden 03/May Lead β
ASchwirtz 18/Apr Lead RP
La Mont 18/Apr Lead rpt
with James Doc
richardashe 18/Apr 2nd
Fraser hill-casey 17/Apr Lead
Ian Bell 27/Sep/14 TR dog

Quick go on someone's else's tr. nice, powerful at the bottom

with Jasmina
RadekNowak 27/Sep/14 Lead RP
Jane Weir 07/Sep/14 Lead

Still fair at 7a.

Hidden 28/Aug/14 Lead β
Hidden 28/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

The best 6b+ on Portland!

Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead β
philhaigh 29/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Shamina Kapadia
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead RP
philhaigh 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan
samparsons 29/Jun/14 Lead dog

Need this clean getting closer.

with Emmie
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
drewish 29/Jun/14 Lead RP

Brilliant. 2nd go

pymn nice but dim 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Amazing route, tough to read but cool positions. My second 7a on sight. gotta keep this pattern up!

Pete Scott 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lots of chalk on it so felt fairly easy to onsight.

philhaigh 25/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Alex Dennis, Vicki Hau, Natalie Haigh
AlexD 25/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Phil, Nat, Vicky
samparsons 25/Jun/14 2nd

Need clean, another great route!

philhaigh 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Rob Gates, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Jane Weir, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young, Murray Freestone, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd dog
drcorbasisgod 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Julie Carroll 16/Jun/14 Lead RP

Felt hard, more like 7a+. Loved it though, some great moves higher up after those hard pockets!

with Dan Gibson
philhaigh 16/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake
Barry Kerslake 16/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Shamina Kapadia, Phil Haigh, Mike G
quiffhanger 15/Jun/14 Lead RP

Too hard for a warmup, especially when wet. Fell off. 2nd go.

with Jon
jonleighton 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
philhaigh 13/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Aarron Schofield, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 13/Jun/14 2nd dog
Bern ?/May/14 Lead RP
Beefy Bert ??/2014 Lead RP
Graham Westbrook 17/Oct/13 Lead RP

Dropped the onsight but got it 2nd go.

richardashe 17/Oct/13 Lead RP

Got it clean after dropping the first and second (stupidly forgot the heal hook to transition into the pocket) attempt. Shoudl have had in two. Good climb!

tiffanykate12 06/Oct/13 2nd dog
mrteale 27/Sep/13 Lead RP
mark20 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
BenL 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Angus Webb
Claudia Harvey 11/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Rachel Keys
jonleighton 10/Aug/13 Lead RP

Tried to onsight but fell early on so lowered off and then did it clean, but got very very pumped trying to work it out!

Hidden 01/Aug/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 06/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Mat Affourtit, Rob Gates, Mike Gubbins, Murray Freestone, Gem Minihan
philhaigh 30/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Mat Affourtit, Barry Kerslake, Natalie Haigh
Billg 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

All holds are fine - soft 7a if you find the good crimp just before the upper groove

Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd β
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
dan gibson 05/Jul/12 Lead RP
with julie carroll
Adam Booth 22/Jun/12 Lead RP

3rd RP

Garrouli 01/Jun/12 Lead RP
with Jak
_m.cox_ 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Prajak
tom106 31/May/12 Lead O/S

7a max - really good!

with dannyb
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead RP
Spacetourist 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Si Brice
brices 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

th emost ridculous method used to onsight it, then tom crused it using a hold i didnt see

with Tom H
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Very nice 7a

with Martyn
katiep 14/Mar/12 TR dog
with Tom Taylor
Hidden 14/Mar/12 TR β
Sophie Nunn 23/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Alex
Toby Dunn 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet
AlexD 23/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with Sophie
Luke Dawson ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead β
Hidden 09/Apr/11 TR dog
mark_wellin 31/Jul/10 Lead β

7a+ in the new guide, ill take it. awesome to get the flash. awesome route from start to finish

Ceridwen 18/Jul/10 2nd dnf
with Andy
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead RP
vertigo 09/Jun/10 Lead RP

Nice and sustained all the way to the rest in the groove. Didn't see any evidence of hold loss, certainly nothing crucial. Solid 7a.

MarkRyder 09/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Rich
Hidden 06/Jun/10 Lead β
feilx 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Rich Dagner
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead RP
Ed Babs 23/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Trevor
Alex More 14/Apr/10 TR dog
with Ed babs
feilx ??/2010 Lead dog
with jon biddle
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 07/Nov/09 Lead rpt

Copped a down pour whilst on the pocket jug.

with Geoff
w.pettet-smith 08/Aug/09 Lead dog

very nice- quite intricate in the upper groove, felt a bit worried on the 2nd or 3rd bolt.two redpoints then it got dark. send it next time.

with josh and steve
derico 08/Jun/09 Lead β

Good climb, would be hard to spot the crucial crimp at crux if not chalked though!

with Jonny
Glyn 07/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Jun/09 Lead RP
trev_f 05/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Tash
Ed Booth 05/Jun/09 Lead RP

Second go. First go got fingers stuck in mono and tried to slap to the jug but fell off as i didnt hit it. gutted as its a big jug! Sent second go after rest.

with Andy Long
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead dnf
Jus 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead dog
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 TR dog
with bob
schof 01/Aug/08 Lead RP
with martin slovak
Martin Krasnansky 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
feilx 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
JPGR 10/May/08 Lead
with Steve
Richard Horn 07/Jul/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
lx 20/Sep/06 Lead


with rob
Hidden 14/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/06 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
sollyf ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
eddieclimb 11/Aug/05 Lead RP
with Dan Savory, Jason Parker
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead RP
Mark Kemball 15/Sep/02 Lead
with Nic Dill
goi.ashmore 08/May/02 Lead RP
with Duncan Powell
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ben Thorne ??/2000 Lead dog

Tried it several times, couldn't put it together in one. Almost a decade ago, so might try again!

with Jimbo, John Pullin
buzby78 19/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 01/Jun/95 -
with Elaine Owen
shark ??/1995 Lead O/S
with John Codling
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Alice.001, RFWilkie, Dean177, professorcobra, chris_woodsy, lewiz, Hidden, Dan_F, Hidden, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, Hidden, flashpanther, Hidden
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set