Restricted Access
The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.
Rockfax Description
Start between Lime Street and God with the crux moving rightwards through the overlap (a poor micro wire). Fine climbing above, with spaced, but good, gear. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start directly between Lime Street and God with the crux moving rightwards through the overlap, protected by a poor microwire. Above has spaced but very good gear, with fantastic climbing. Move into Lime Street along the top break, to avoid the choss as much as possible. Finish at Lime Street stance.
Done on bolts in 1986 by Martin Roome but debolted in 1993. FA in current state by Matt Fry 21/Sep/2009.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Peaklime_bagger | 4 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Probably around 7a+/b with a tricky crux move which is reasonably run-out above a reliable wire and not overly far from the ground. There are options for higher but less reliable gear. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Probably around 7a+/b with a tricky crux move which is reasonably run-out above a reliable wire and not overly far from the ground. There are options for higher but less reliable gear. |
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| Tom Briggs | 23 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The wire at the crux is not a micro wire. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The wire at the crux is not a micro wire. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks
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Do the Rocksteady
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)