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French Direct*** D

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[A distant storm approaches Alpamayo base camp, 1 kb]400m, 10 pitches. The new guide route and most popular way up the mountain. Takes the fluting directly below the summit. Cross the glacier to the base of the face, cross the bergshrund and two pitches of snow gets you to the ice. Six pitches of ice, usually with in-situ abalaklovs will see you to the summit. Abseil back down the route to descend.

Photo: A distant storm approaches Alpamayo base camp © Makalu
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Not hard or technically difficult, but lots of falling ice and dinner plating. Wasn't as busy as feared as we had the whole face to ourselves.
Ed Lau - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/12

Absolutely sick! Not to technically challenging, ice never steeper than 80degrees. 14hrs rtn from moraine camp
tskelhon - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Tim Slater, chris davis

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/11

tsl42 - 2nd O/S - Aug/11 with Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis

les_phoques - 2nd - Aug/11

Ladder needed over bergshrund, straihgforward from there but lots of ice falling!
DrJon - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/11 with JG

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/09

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Stu

Running belay
Julli - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/07 with Arri Leino

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jezb1, Alex_RhodesUK, Hidden, Sam Husband, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, ChrisHolloway1, Superchop75

Voting
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hard D+0 of 2
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hard D0 of 2
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