French Direct*** D
[Alpamayo at Sunset from Col Camp, 2 kb]400m, 10 pitches. The new guide route and most popular way up the mountain. Takes the fluting directly below the summit. Cross the glacier to the base of the face, cross the bergshrund and two pitches of snow gets you to the ice. Six pitches of ice, usually with in-situ abalaklovs will see you to the summit. Abseil back down the route to descend.

Photo: Alpamayo at Sunset from Col Camp © ams558
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 11 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Started late due to malfunctioning stove and questionable weather, turned back four pitches from the top so about half-way due to time and cold.
Mr. K - AltLd dnf - 26/Jul/15 with Urs Musch

Nelson Pelson - Aug/12

Not hard or technically difficult, but lots of falling ice and dinner plating. Wasn't as busy as feared as we had the whole face to ourselves.
Ed Lau - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/12

Absolutely sick! Not to technically challenging, ice never steeper than 80degrees. 14hrs rtn from moraine camp
tskelhon - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Tim Slater, chris davis

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/11

tsl42 - 2nd O/S - Aug/11 with Tom Skelhon, Chris Davis

les_phoques - 2nd - Aug/11

Ladder needed over bergshrund, straihgforward from there but lots of ice falling!
DrJon - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/11 with JG

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/09

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Stu

Running belay
Julli - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/07 with Arri Leino

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jezb1, Alex_RhodesUK, Sam Husband, ChrisHolloway1, Superchop75
Total votes cast 6
hard D+0 of 3
D+0 of 3
easy D+0 of 3
hard D0 of 3
D3 of 3
easy D0 of 3
hard D-0 of 3
D-0 of 3
easy D-0 of 3
3 Stars3 of 3
2 Stars0 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.