Rockfax Description
A thin crux with a split pocket gives a terrific test-piece. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 4.9.94 04/Sep/1994

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist.

Hidden 28/Jun Lead dog
Dandan82 30/May Lead dog
Hidden 24/May TR dog
Hidden 03/May TR dog
Javis 06/Apr Lead dog
Hidden 03/Apr Lead RP
Hidden 14/Mar TR dog
Hidden 25/Jan Lead RP
Hidden 30/Nov/14 Lead dog
Dandan82 16/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Rich
Dandan82 08/Mar/14 Lead dog
Dandan82 01/Mar/14 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Nov/13 Lead β
Haydn Jones 23/Apr/13 Lead RP

excellent route 3 stars

with ben harding
3 Names 21/Apr/13 Lead RP

3rd red point

with Nick
Hidden 02/Mar/13 TR dog
Sami Mandeel 07/Dec/12 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 07/Dec/12 2nd
Sami Mandeel 04/Dec/12 Lead dog
Sami Mandeel 22/Nov/12 Lead dog
Sami Mandeel 21/Nov/12 TR dog

Sopping wet today. Hopped on it anyway.

Sami Mandeel 15/Nov/12 Lead dog
Sami Mandeel 13/Nov/12 TR dog
Sami Mandeel 07/Nov/12 TR dog
Sami Mandeel 21/Sep/12 TR dog
Sami Mandeel 05/Jul/12 TR dog
with Si
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 01/Jul/12 Lead RP

Took 7 redpoints, great route, climbed in dedication to Sami Mandeel

Sami Mandeel 01/Jul/12 TR dog
with Sam Ferguson, Si
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13/Jun/12 Lead dog

Need to sort one move

Hidden 13/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Feb/12 TR dog
tom106 21/Jan/12 Lead RP
with tom taylor, chris
Tophe 21/Jan/12 Lead RP
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden 04/Dec/11 TR dog
Hidden 03/Dec/11 TR dog
dan gibson 05/Oct/11 Lead RP
with julie carroll
mikeshewring 25/Sep/11 TR dog
JPGR 23/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/11 TR dnf
PeterDawson 31/May/11 Lead RP
Martin Cleaver 17/Apr/11 Lead RP

I tried a couple of methods on the crux but with some beta from a friend the route became very easy

J.Wells 15/Apr/11 Lead RP
Oli 28/Mar/11 Lead RP

2nd go. Felt steady. Certainly never 7c. Quality sequence of moves though.

with Fred
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead RP
La Mont 31/Oct/10 Lead RP

Dull miserable damp day on Portland, but new tick :)

with Angus Edwards
pezzerrr ?/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 16/Jul/10 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 11/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Luke d 06/Mar/10 Lead dog

I can do all the moves its just extremly hard for the under 1.55

Hidden ?/Mar/10 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Aug/09 TR dog
matt green(uni) 21/May/09 Lead RP
Hidden 13/May/09 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 03/May/09 TR dog
hippo99 04/Jan/09 Lead RP
with sam cox, louis bosence
rubben ??/2009 Lead RP
sam_cox ?/Dec/08 Lead
Richard Horn 23/Nov/08 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Aug/08 TR dog
Hidden 04/Aug/08 TR dog
Somerset swede basher 06/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Dan Wicks
Martin Krasnansky 31/Jul/07 Lead RP


guyblackwood 09/Apr/07 TR dnf

very tough- need to train much harder for this one

with Ricardo and Jim
Hidden 21/Jan/07 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/Jan/07 Lead RP
with Sion
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Oct/06 Lead dog
bigie bob 23/Jul/06 Lead RP
Paz 05/Mar/06 Lead dog
with FM
lx ?/Feb/06 Lead
A Longleat Boulderer ??/2006 Lead RP

Come on people, seriously, who are you kidding when you give this hard 7b+ or 7c ... it is bogstandard 7b. Go and try Bogus Roof. That is proper 7b and defo harder than this.

with James Cook
brew_guru ??/2003 TR dnf

noooooo way!

with pj
Hidden ??/2002 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Ben Thorne ?/Apr/99 Lead dnf

Spent a month working this and went from finding it desperate to throwing laps on it in two halves. Never did link it through the crux (snapped tendons on the crux) and never returned to fitness.

with Rob Seall
kristian 18/Feb/96 Lead RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, lawsy_boy1, will black, Hidden, Monkeyboy, lewiz, theloringharvey, joe1joe1joe2, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, mynameisjen, Hidden, Pete Scott, Hidden, Ezy Ryder, BennyBoy, Goonie, J/mie
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set