Rockfax Description
Fine, sustained climbing up an open groove. High in the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 26.11.95 26/Nov/1995

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a.

tobydunford 22/Nov Lead O/S
with Oli
Tom Seccombe 11/Jul Lead O/S
dswansonlow 08/Jul Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Hidden 07/Jul Lead dog
Hidden 07/Jul Lead RP
spidermonkey09 04/Jun Lead RP

Nearly onsighted but fell off top move. One top rope, then first RP. Great climbing, hard throw to escape the groove then technical crack to finish.

afrosam 24/May Lead O/S
leglesslizard 10/May Lead RP
Sophie Nunn 09/May Lead dog
with Brian
DorsetGareth 02/May Lead RP
brian watson 24/Apr Lead dog
Neil_M_L 11/Apr Lead RP
Hidden 04/Apr Lead
Chloe 28/Mar TR dog

Worked this route. It has some tricky moves but definitely doable.

with Arran
Hidden 25/Jan Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jan Lead dog
Sam4242 09/Jan Lead dog
Albachoss ??/2015 Lead RP
with Dougie
Pete Scott 21/Dec/14 Lead RP
nath_casper 19/Oct/14 Lead dog
lawsy_boy1 27/Sep/14 Lead RP
5210Hill 27/Sep/14 Lead RP
RFWilkie 21/Sep/14 Lead RP

On the 3rd attempt

Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead RP
Jon_Warner 30/Aug/14 Lead dog

Stumped at 4th bolt. Felt hard.

with Jonny
FL1PD4N 23/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Couldn't manage the crux clean, got to the top of the crack and took a WHIPPER!

Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead dog
bigdrew 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
Nick Clement 10/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
Thinker01 02/Aug/14 Lead RP

Took a couple of goes but not hard once you know where all the moves are.

nacnud 12/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead dog
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/May/14 Lead dog
Barry Kerslake 11/May/14 Lead RP
with Ro
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead RP
Nick Russell 29/Mar/14 Lead RP

1st RP, disappointed to fall off the last move on the flash attempt. Some neat climbing, with a really nice sequence off the big ledge.

paddygoodwinlondon 23/Mar/14 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 16/Mar/14 Lead RP

1st go today, worked it prev weekend

Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead RP
robbo99 16/Mar/14 TR dog

7a warm up! Found the move up to the diagonal hold above 4th bolt tricky.

DJ Nelson 15/Mar/14 Lead RP

2nd go

with Micaela Langellotti
Ross.Cooper 09/Mar/14 Lead dog

Got all the moves, too tired to link...

Marcus 09/Mar/14 Lead RP

First climb for about 6 months because of bad hip. Used finger power off the pocket as can't bridge.

Rupey 08/Mar/14 Lead dog
Tommyads ??/2014 -

Brilliant. Maybe i do like the cuttings?

Luxulyan 08/Dec/13 Lead RP
with Tom Murrell
BenL 06/Dec/13 Lead RP
with James Doc
dprctr 03/Nov/13 Lead RP

Woo hoo! Finally didnt fuck it up.

with Patrick
dprctr 02/Nov/13 Lead dog

Perfect conditions, but had to relearn alot of the route.

with Patrick
dprctr 01/Sep/13 Lead dog

x3 attempts. Great route, Must come back for it.

with Robbie Jenkins
Luke Dawson 27/Aug/13 Lead β
nigel pearson 07/Jul/13 Lead dog

led clean from the ledge after several attempts

with Robin
Hidden 05/Jul/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 24/Jun/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 24/Jun/13 2nd rpt

Retrieving draws

with Shamina Kapadia
Hidden 23/Jun/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 15/Jun/13 2nd RP
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 03/Jun/13 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 26/May/13 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 18/May/13 Lead dog

felt sketchy as hell. pulled off part of a hold at one point - nothing important though

lewiz 04/May/13 Lead RP

2nd go. Easy 7a

Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt
budchawla 20/Apr/13 -

I didn't climb this but putting this here for info: a fairly significant hold (a little pyramid just right of the 5th clip) which is useful to gain a much-needed rest before attempting the crux partially broke off while one of our group was climbing there on 20 April. Unsure exactly what effect this will have on the route / grade.

Rockwarrior ?/Mar/13 Lead β
with JRennie
Rockwarrior ?/Mar/13 Lead β
with JRennie
Kopinski ?/Feb/13 Lead RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 04/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Anthony
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead RP
Nick205228 ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Dec/12 Lead RP
el_monty 13/Nov/12 Lead RP
with Sami
MarkRyder 11/Nov/12 Lead RP
with Andy
Sami Mandeel 08/Nov/12 Lead RP

2nd go.

JCAshman 02/Nov/12 Lead RP

Drop Knee Crux

Bristoldave 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Mike, nick, LukeW, douglas
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead β
London Luke ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 05/Aug/12 Lead β

Fun & technical. Not sustained if you use your feet.

with Joe
JKinsella 05/Aug/12 Lead RP

Good fun, nice climbing, soft. 2nd go.

dale1968 21/Jul/12 TR dog
with Tom
rustaldo 20/Jul/12 Lead RP

first RP. blew the onsight at the last move, crack is sadly short lived, top out is strewn with gash holds, easy to fluff it at the top

Hidden 21/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Jun/12 Lead RP
EllaRus ?/Jun/12 Lead RP
with john
brices 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tom H
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead dog
Gareth Bowen 31/Mar/12 Lead dog

All moves done.

with Nathan Goddard
3 Names 16/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead RP
andrew hammond 26/Feb/12 Lead RP
_m.cox_ 25/Feb/12 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jan/12 Lead RP
Kevster 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
jgustafsson 03/Dec/11 Lead RP

Hard to onsight -- First I didn't even spot the right leaning ramp that you go for on the crux. Did 2nd go, but it felt like a fairly hard lock-off (though I'm not very tall)

with Pino
catt 29/Oct/11 Lead RP

Nice climb, felt fairly reasonable for 7a.

with Hazel
philhaigh 20/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Lora Townsend, Matt Ridgway
philhaigh 15/Oct/11 TR dog
with Lora Townsend, Matt Ridgway, Natalie Haigh
Toby Dunn 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S

not as nice as the feature it climbs.

with Jon Emmet
Jonathan Emett 08/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with toby
Haydn Jones 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

Bah! fell off last move going for the on-sight, got it second go though!

Ed morris 02/Sep/11 Lead RP
PowerPigtails 30/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead RP
tom.ireson 23/Jul/11 Lead β
Hidden 13/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/11 Lead β
Hidden 29/May/11 TR RP
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead RP
chris sm 22/May/11 Lead dog

Tough crux getting into the groove. Didn't try the RP.

with Laurel Bowler
timharrison 15/May/11 Lead dog
with Jo Chia
Jonathan Emett 22/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 11/Apr/11 Lead RP
dmaldonado 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Sam Wilson
davidliu 13/Mar/11 Lead β
tedj234 ?/Mar/11 Lead RP
Spacetourist ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 22/Jan/11 Lead dnf
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead RP
jacobjacob 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S

One huge lock makes this 7a+. Pleasantly awkward above.

with Laura Perry
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead β
givemetea 09/Apr/10 Lead dog

crux move too reachy - not sure how to get around this -- hmmmm

with Hazel
JPGR 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan O'Sullivan
Billg 04/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Susanne Richards
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
Si dH 26/Mar/10 Lead dog

Quite a long way from being able to link it but nice moves. Maybe one to work if I go back again.

with Neil and Chris
Hidden 26/Mar/10 TR dnf
3 Names ?/Mar/10 TR O/S
pezzerrr 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Wilbur 06/Feb/10 Lead RP

2 stars even though it doesn't really get going till the ledge. Hard 4th clip and crux just above it, especially for shorties (5'8). The final hard bit is also not straight forward. Probably agree with hard 7a but can't be that hard if i got it 1st redpoint (certainly not as hard as Haute Cuisine)...

with George
georgel 06/Feb/10 Lead RP
with will
w.pettet-smith 23/Jan/10 Lead RP

love the notes a few below! quite an absorbing climb, got it first time after failing the onsight. didn't see the vital hold up and left of the crux bolt. nice sequence at the top.

with steve
Ed Babs 17/Jan/10 Lead RP
with Harry
mark_wellin 09/Jan/10 Lead rpt
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 09/Jan/10 TR dog
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
dan gibson 08/Nov/09 Lead rpt
with sam read
Mowglee 25/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Failed to mount the ledge after the last bolt :-(

with Mark
FrostyWebb 01/Jul/09 Lead dog

Good name!

with Bogdan
Oli 25/Jun/09 Lead dog

Fell off the last move.

with Roger
thomasadixon 07/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alan & Co
Reaver2k 07/Apr/09 2nd dog

Tom's first 7a! and a clean onsight at that! My first 7a aswell outside, really shouldn't haven't have fallen off it! Gutted! Really hard moves off the ledge, right hand up high and left onto the ramp, match, then right hand out of right. Scramble up the ramp. Looked like there was a rest at the top, but turns out there wasn't! Then the last move, missed the hold over the top of the crack and came off. Left foot swung up and left onto the arete. Great effort, will have to attempt to lead next time im there!

with Katie Keeley, Alex Bashford, Tom Dixon
vertigo 21/Feb/09 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead dog
schof 15/Jan/09 Lead β
with biggie bob
Hidden 07/Jan/09 -
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/08 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 14/Apr/08 Lead RP
marky ?/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Richard Horn 23/Sep/07 Lead RP
feeko 06/May/07 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 15/Mar/07 Lead dnf
with Salomon Fernandez
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 15/Jul/06 Lead RP
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
dannyboy83 ??/2006 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 12/Mar/05 -
Hidden 06/Oct/02 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 15/May/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Billg 25/Feb/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
John_Beesley, drifterjoe, Hidden, Neil_M_L, Hidden, josh Bamsey, Rich2002, alexjz, Hidden, Hidden, jameswhitty, stevorobs3, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set