At last! For "shorties" like me (5' 9") the third crux is really hard, as now that the old hold has gone, you have to make the move from just a pinch and that's after using quite a bit of power on the other two cruxes. The first crux is pretty hard in itself - if you go direct (which you should) - and the second isn't a pushover either. You need very good friction all the way up. The whole climb felt solid 7c to me, maybe even harder. Having said that, for those about 4" taller than me with very good footwork, the top crux may still go at 7b+ but for some reason, "taller" persons seem to have trouble with the first crux. As the climb now feels harder than Hall of Mirrors, perhaps the grade needs to be adjusted. It could do with a few more clean ascents, so a consensus could emerge from those (and only those) that manage it. Anyway, today it felt effortless - which made a change!Marcus - Lead RP - 19/Aug/14 with Paul Jackson
Hidden - TR dog - 09/Aug/14
Hidden - TR dog - 15/Jun/14
Moved from the 'total bafflement' to the 'completely overwhelmed and feeling weak' stage
Jonathan Emett - Lead dnf - 14/Jun/14 with Paul
Bristoldave - Lead dog - 11/May/14 with LukeW, Caroline
Hidden - TR dog - 05/May/14
Linc - Lead RP - 03/May/14
Finally! It does go with the missing hold on the upper crux, at least if you're tall :)
lewiz - Lead RP - 12/Apr/14
New upper crux sequence without 'crux hold'. Won't work for shorties but the grade isn't changed. Stuck the second crux dyno but fell on the upper crux. Will go soon.
lewiz - Lead dog - 30/Mar/14
Made a really great link to the dyno move (fall). After a rest I looked set to make it to the top but pulled off the 'crux' hold. The final crux is now considerably harder and I've not managed to do the moves from off the rope.
Forum post to follow as I have the hold in my chalk bag. Perhaps a candidate for glue, or the route might now be as hard as Hall of Mirrors.
lewiz - Lead dog - 16/Mar/14 with Artur Malczuk
lewiz - Lead dog - 15/Mar/14 with Artur Malczuk
Phil Belcher - Lead dog - 02/Jan/14 with Dan
2nd go. Some great moves!
Ed Booth - Lead RP - 29/Dec/13 with Angus Kille, Adam Booth
Tired. Feels hard for 7b+ but should go when I'm fresh.
Adam Booth - TR dog - 29/Dec/13 with Angus Kille, Ed Booth
5th RP via easier right hand sequence
3 Names - Lead RP - 27/May/13 with Nick
Ambitiously went for an end of day on-sight but way to technical and weird. Def worthwhile - some great moves.
quiffhanger - Lead dog - 27/May/13 with Kate
Hidden - Lead RP - 22/May/13
Done in two halfs
3 Names - Lead dog - 22/May/13
Kevster - Lead dog - 10/May/13 with Gavin Dee, Tony Johnson
Kopinski - Lead RP - Feb/13
dan gibson - Lead RP - 06/Oct/12 with julie carroll
Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Jun/12
Toby Dunn - Lead RP - 17/Mar/12 with Sophie Nunn
awesome and hard!
natalietanzer - TR dog - 16/Mar/12 with Dan Gibson
matt perks - 2012
Brilliant route, amazing moves. Bloody hard for 7b+ I thought. Felt solid 7c. Was quite warm I suppose
Ged Desforges - 2012
Should have gone second go, eventually took four rps. Very good climbing. Felt low in the grade to me.
mark_wellin - Lead RP - 26/Jun/11
Hidden - Lead dog - 29/May/11
great wall climbing
Mark Warnett - Lead rpt - Mar/11
Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Dec/10
pezzerrr - Lead RP - 05/Dec/10
first redpoint, very good
schof - Lead RP - 13/May/10 with trev ford
Awesomely technical feature grappling. Longest I've spent on a route, took 9 days and 11 RP attempts. Tried on 14/03, 02/04 - 09/04, 24/04 and 26/04. Did the direct (harder) sequence past 4th bolt. Finally clipping the chains felt pretty sweet.
Quiddity - Lead RP - 03/May/10 with Curious Yellow
trev_f - Lead RP - 30/Apr/10 with Andy
Leeds - Lead RP - 18/Apr/10
billb - Lead - Apr/10 with Mark Warnet
hippo99 - Lead RP - 03/May/09 with sam em
Hidden - Lead dog - 03/May/09
sam_cox - Lead - 03/May/09
feilx - Lead RP - 21/Dec/08 with Heather
feilx - Lead dog - 15/Nov/08 with Richard Horn
Richard Horn - Lead RP - 15/Nov/08
Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/08
It took a lot of work, but when it came together it felt effortless.
Castleclimber - Lead RP - 13/Apr/08 with Leigh Morris
Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Feb/08
John Southworth - 2008
Jus - Lead RP - Sep/07
Martin Krasnansky - Lead RP - 07/Aug/07
Rob Kennard - 2007
Hidden - 2007
bigie bob - Lead RP - 05/Nov/06
dannyboy83 - Lead RP - Sep/06
lukea - Lead dog - 28/Dec/05 with dan
lukea - Lead dog - 28/Dec/05 with Olaf
Hidden - 08/Jun/05
Richard White - 2000