New Saladin** 6c
[Busy at The Cuttings, Portland., 3 kb]18m.

Rockfax Description
Wild moves up the crack and hanging corner above the start of Want Out. A fine pitch, but avoid the prickly bush on the right. © ROCKFAX


FA. Pete Oxley 13.1.91 13/Jan/1991

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist.

Photo: Busy at The Cuttings, Portland. © davies00
View all 10 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 249 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Need to go back and get clean after losing my balls, every move fine but just couldnt push myself.
samparsons - Lead - 22/Apr/15

leglesslizard - Lead β - 11/Apr/15

FreddieSmith - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15 with Guy Blackwood, Ed Geall

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Apr/15

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Mar/15

La Mont - 21/Mar/15 with Abi Marchant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/15

Brian H - Lead rpt - 11/Jan/15 with Kafoozalem

AlexD - Lead RP - 20/Dec/14 with Jane Weir, Marti

Marti999 - Lead rpt - 30/Nov/14 with Debbie

1 fall pumped
Sam4242 - Lead - 05/Nov/14

hutchay - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/14 with Dave Clover

2nd try
RFWilkie - Lead RP - 21/Sep/14

RKirke - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/14 with Phil

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/14

Hidden - 07/Sep/14

Qisheng Xie - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Graham Giles

A great little climb, very nearly gave up at the crux but someone called out the missing hold which made it just about possible!
GrahamGiles - Lead β - 30/Aug/14 with Renna Clifford

Great route! Shame it's shortlived.
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Jonny

Aaron.Clifford - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/14 with Renna Clifford

Tom Seccombe - Lead dog - 25/Jul/14 with Ben Woods

Beaten by the crux on both attempts. Managed to fisnish it off after a rest. Definitely one for next time!
TomRiddelsdell - Lead dog - 19/Jul/14 with Matt Beals

Will come back and get this next time.
Matt77 - Lead dog - 19/Jul/14 with Tom Riddelsdell

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Jun/14

Hidden - 22/Jun/14

Hidden - TR RP - 21/Jun/14

Retro flash
Bisset - Lead β - 21/Jun/14 with Betrand

screwed the lead but was ok-ish on top rope. bridging above the crack a little tenuous in old shoes
robbo99 - TR dog - 21/Jun/14

brices - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Llinos, Gav

Hidden - 25/May/14

retro flash
Pete Scott - Lead - 18/May/14 with Ben Buckland

philhaigh - Lead rpt - 17/May/14 with Aarron Schofield, Rob Gates, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh

Alex Winter - Lead RP - 10/May/14 with Ben's stag

Cheese Monkey - Lead dog - 10/May/14

pheotleyr - TR dog - 10/May/14 with Alex

JHC - 04/May/14

nutallovertheface - Lead O/S - May/14 with Marcus & The Ellis Brigham Crew

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Feb/14

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/14 with Will I Am, Grant

Got a bit pumped so thugged it, probably more fun than using technique.
Tommyads - 2014

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13

Went on the 2nd go, hard to clip the bolt at the overhanging crack.
sarpedon - Lead RP - 20/Dec/13

Too tired to finish it after trying to climb two 7a+s.
sarpedon - Lead dnf - 14/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Nov/13

PeterDawson - Lead RP - 26/Aug/13

BenL - Lead RP - 14/Jul/13

cool route, high feet are key!
Alex Norman - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/13

nice moves. I was attacked by a bush at the top that speared my leg, ouch.
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Robin

Hidden - TR dog - 30/Jun/13

Dibdawg - Lead RP - 29/Jun/13 with Pete Clark

Hidden - Lead RP - 29/Jun/13

natalietanzer - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13 with tom, will

Only Just! Draws already placed by Jonathan, Needed them.
jwpil - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13 with Jonathan Emett, Ben

Jus - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Jun/13

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13

Jobbo - Lead dog - 09/Dec/12 with Leon. D, Matt Carwardine

Sami Mandeel - Lead RP - 15/Nov/12 with el_monty

tedj234 - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Kate

thomasmouse - Lead RP - 03/Nov/12

Alex Whitmore - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

Julie Carroll - Lead RP - 07/Oct/12 with Dan Gibson

Good route, but too unfit
Siderunner - TR dog - 30/Sep/12 with Juan

Brian H - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/12 with Adrian Parsons, Andrew Hammond

andrew hammond - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/12

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Scott, Alice

unfortinatly come off the first time in the crack :( just lost my ballance lowered off from the crack and about 5 minutes, whent up it again and did it clean
Jordon Fleming - Lead RP - 20/Jul/12 with matt

easy start and easy finish, short 6c section in the middle involving the crack, helps if you layback and smear confidently
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/12 with Jordon Fleming

Finally! Can't believe it was that easy if you just get the right bloody sequence
Thinker01 - Lead β - 08/Jul/12 with Kev Stott

al99 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/12 with Jen Crook

Bern - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/12 with Richard White

richardr - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/12 with Chris Wyatt

short but sweet
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/12 with rich

mikeconway - Lead RP - 16/Jun/12

philhaigh - Lead dog - 13/Jun/12 with Natalie Haigh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/May/12

lewiz - Lead RP - 19/May/12 with Vlad Vishnyakov

becster - 2nd dog - 13/May/12 with Mark_Day

Hidden - Lead β - 12/May/12

philhaigh - 2nd dog - 02/May/12 with Murray Freestone, Natalie Haigh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Mar/12

4th go.
Rachel Somerville - Lead RP - 03/Mar/12 with Ros M

A retro-flash I guess. Seconded this 5 years ago and had to rest a couple of times. Nice that it felt reasonably comfortable this time.
givemetea - Lead β - 03/Mar/12 with Rachel Somerville

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Feb/12

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 19/Feb/12 with Ivan M

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Feb/12

3 Names - Lead RP - 18/Feb/12 with Nick

lewiz - Lead dog - 22/Jan/12 with Kirsten Donovan, Vlad Vishnyakov

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Jan/12

tonevert - Lead RP - 08/Jan/12

Second go. Quality moves.
Bisset - Lead RP - 07/Jan/12 with Phil B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jan/12

matt perks - 2012

innes - Lead - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - Dec/11

Sophie Nunn - Lead dog - 26/Nov/11 with Toby

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Oct/11

dale1968 - TR dnf - 21/Oct/11 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/11

willbatho - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/11

Toby Dunn - Lead - 08/Oct/11 with Jon Emmet

Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 08/Oct/11 with toby

Julie Carroll - Lead dog - 05/Oct/11 with Dan Gibson

*2 stamina training
Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 23/Sep/11 with rupe

Did the crux with a heel hook?? cruising to the top when my rope got caught in the bush had to down climb and spend 5 minuets untangling it. great climb though
Joe Black - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/11

got it second time after dogging it the first, cool climb although somone take a trimmer and cut that bloody bush off :)
bikeguerra - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/11

Hard work
Thinker01 - Lead dog - 04/Sep/11

Fluffed it twice in different places. Next time.
Sami Mandeel - Lead dog - 10/Jul/11 with Sam Ferguson

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Jun/11

Kopinski - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11

wolverine - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Sarah Marks

Linc - Lead O/S - May/11

trevor macalonan - Lead RP - 21/Apr/11 with Drew

amaizing rout, very technical, very fluid, but very pumpy.
ekaterina sigida - 2nd - 19/Apr/11 with rob daughtery

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/11

matthewjames - Lead dnf - 12/Mar/11 with Katie Keeley

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Mar/11

thomasmouse - Lead dog - 05/Mar/11

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with Rosea

Fantastic and...brutal! No hard moves but once you're over the decent rest half way it's a race against time to get over the crack and bulge.
Tomar - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/11 with Phil the climbing goat

0.x.1
torsok - TR dnf - 30/Jan/11 with Tania

slimey day, awesome route tho!
Robin Head - TR dog - 15/Jan/11 with felix

feilx - Lead rpt - 15/Jan/11 with robin head, Alex Dennis

Rosea Day - 2011

Hawkscry - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10

feilx - Lead rpt - 20/Nov/10 with Andy L

retroflash
Dan_Carroll - Lead RP - 23/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/10

Finally! 'n'th attempt, 2nd go on third session.
Jonathan Emett - Lead RP - 04/Oct/10 with Steve Woollard

Jonathan Emett - Lead dog - 05/Sep/10 with crispin

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/10 with Jon Emmett

Jonathan Emett - TR dnf - 24/Aug/10 with toby dunford

Hidden - Lead RP - 15/Aug/10

Wicked route, mini yosemite, funky moves.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Laura Perry, Mikey G

Superb technical little corner crack, shame it isnt longer cos that would be amaaazing! Sweet moves though
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with alex mason

speed climbed just before it got dark.
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10

tom106 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with tom smart, shane, harry

lyneux - TR dnf - 24/Jul/10 with Laurence Weil

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead dog - 11/Jul/10 with Rich Fox

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead rpt - 11/Jul/10 with Rich Fox

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/10 with Jon Didymus

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - TR dog - 03/Jul/10 with Dan Verge

good fun adventurous climbing
Dandan82 - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Rich

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - TR - 26/Jun/10

steve_biczyk - Lead β - 30/May/10 with Emma, Huw, Marc

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with andy elliot

breed - Lead O/S - 15/May/10

Couple of rest points. Bit wet in the back of the crack.
Si dH - Lead dog - 26/Mar/10 with Neil and Chris

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/Mar/10

A lot of fun, by the skin of my teeth!
jgustafsson - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with Pino

Dan_Carroll - Lead dog - 21/Feb/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Feb/10

timharrison - TR dog - 31/Jan/10 with Iain Moodie

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/10

Jane Weir - 2010

Ian Bell - TR dog - 2010 with Mark Hathaway

Pretty close to being able to lead this, next time maybe....
Ceridwen - 2nd dog - 06/Sep/09 with Dan Eastleigh

JonBrown - Lead RP - 06/Sep/09 with Dan Eastley

eastley - Lead - 06/Sep/09 with Jon Brown, Ceri

Justin T - Lead β - 30/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/09

eugeneth - Lead RP - 16/Aug/09 with James V

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Aug/09

Luke d - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

barni - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Northern

powerful. crux seemed to be having the balls to through the harder moves before clipping the second to last bolt. the crack was a bit muddy.
w.pettet-smith - 01/Jun/09

JPGR - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Yvette

thompson1000 - Lead - Jun/09 with Barni

Marti999 - Lead rpt - 05/May/09

nblackbeard - Lead dog - 02/May/09 with James Whitlock

shyster boulder - Lead β - 01/May/09 with brummy phill

pumpy crack
DrGav - Lead dog - 10/Apr/09 with Wendy

JimR - 08/Mar/09

Chubbard - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/09 with J Robinson

Hidden - Lead - 28/Feb/09

Hidden - Lead β - 21/Feb/09

hippo99 - Lead O/S - 21/Dec/08 with sam cox

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Dec/08

sam_cox - Lead - Dec/08

tobydunford - Lead dog - 29/Oct/08 with Lisa Paling

vertigo - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/08 with Robin Hill

Hidden - 2nd dog - Oct/08

Hidden - TR dnf - 27/Sep/08

Martin Davies - Lead dnf - 27/Sep/08 with Noel Walker

Ed Babs - Lead RP - 07/Sep/08 with John Vet

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Hidden - Lead β - 29/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/08

Vince - Lead RP - 27/Jun/08 with Jakob Bronebakk

trev_f - Lead RP - 23/Jun/08 with Joe

steve taylor - Lead dog - 22/Jun/08 with Ben Stokes

Next time . . . . . .
clipskipper - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/08 with Ed Babington

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/08

A lot more pumpy than i remember!
Morgan Woods - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/08 with David S

Vince - Lead dog - 02/Feb/08 with Anthony Nealon

John Southworth - 2008

Jake Shaw - Lead β - 2008

nawface - 2008

Docent - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with pudel

Found getting over the bulge easier this time....but getting there harder??
Morgan Woods - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/07 with Vinnie

Ramon Marin - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/07 with Salomon Fernandez

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

onlytovey - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Scott N - Lead RP - 2007

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Nov/06

givemetea - 2nd dog - 20/Sep/06 with Lucy Creamer

bigie bob - Lead RP - 22/Jul/06

givemetea - 2nd dog - 29/May/06 with Tony Yates

timharrison - Lead RP - 15/Apr/06 with Trevor Macalonan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/06

timharrison - Lead dog - 09/Apr/06

return project - done!
Morgan Woods - Lead RP - Apr/06 with Gareth

Billg - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/06 with Paul Bowen

steve taylor - Lead - 2006

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 2006 with Dave Moir

dan gibson - 2006

Richard Horn - Lead RP - 2006

feeko - 2006

feilx - Lead - 2006

Kevster - Lead - 2006

lukea - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/05 with dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/05

michael burrows - 2nd - 30/Sep/05 with mike hammill

just one more - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/05

givemetea - 2nd dog - Aug/05 with Tony Yates

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/May/05

Marti999 - Lead β - 2005

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/03 with Andy Howe

Hidden - 04/May/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/00

Richard White - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 26/Mar/99

Mark Kemball - Lead RP - 29/Mar/98 with Jason Lloyd

Hidden - Lead - 1998

phardman - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/95

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AlexBush, alexjz, torsok, drewclimber, Siderunner

Voting
Total votes cast 109
hard 6c+0 of 57
6c+0 of 57
easy 6c+7 of 57
hard 6c10 of 57
6c35 of 57
easy 6c5 of 57
hard 6b+0 of 57
6b+0 of 57
easy 6b+0 of 57
3 Stars15 of 52
2 Stars35 of 52
1 Star2 of 52
0 Stars0 of 52
Bag of .....0 of 52
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