Rockfax Description
A route for those who like them short, sharp and well protected. Amble up the lower section and assault the central crack in the white headwall. Brief but excellent. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Wilmott 12.65 Dec/1965

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

richardashe 25/Oct Lead RP
with Jay, Hannah
cdpuk 11/Oct 2nd rpt

After bailing on lead. Didn't find the move the first time.

Pete Randall 11/Oct Lead dog
with Chris P
Oli 03/Oct Lead rpt

Bit of closure on this; think I claimed this as my first E1 and may have sat on the rope and still taken the tick. No such shenanigans this time. Maybe hard 5b?

with Fred
clmacdonald 03/Oct 2nd
Tubs 13/Sep Lead O/S

I can see why this sees a lot of failures but it's not actually that bad if you just commit. Good fun, especially when I realised I couldn't reach the top jugs without doing an extra move.

with AJM
AJM 13/Sep 2nd β
climbtim 06/Sep TR
Graham Westbrook 03/Sep 2nd
richardashe 03/Sep Lead dog

Missed the key right foot placement and came off. Next time I'm down I'll remember it's key. If you get the sequence right it's fine!

Youngmre 08/Aug 2nd
with ryan mcconnell
paultaylor ?/Aug Lead rpt
ian d f 17/Jul TR rpt
with shunt
BushwackerBritz 11/Jul 2nd rpt
rajeshwarbisht 05/Jul 2nd dog
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 05/Jul Lead O/S
elfka 17/Jun Lead dog
with Michelle Baker
RKirke 13/Jun Lead rpt

First climbed as second in 24/8/13. Much harder the second time with the greasy conditions, the dreaded sea mist strikes.

ian d f 11/Jun Lead O/S
with Adam
RosePearson 30/May Lead O/S
with Matt Kingston
LJC 23/May Lead rpt
with Euge, Theo, Little Ben
Ciderslider 22/May TR dog

Very Very Wet but got it after one fall off a wet finger lock

with Luca
Sophie Nunn 20/May Lead rpt
with Stu, Alan
stujamac 20/May 2nd dog
with Alan Blanchflower, Sophie Nunn
Monkey_Alan 20/May 2nd
andrzej kierzek 10/May Lead O/S
Ciderslider 22/Apr TR

Top rope practice for the eventual lead - actually managed to do the crux moves three times straight :-)

with Ben
Dan0Me 04/Apr TR O/S
with Sophie C
adam 24 01/Feb Lead O/S

Crack felt tricky, nearly slipped in a few places.

Hidden 01/Feb 2nd O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
euge74 ??/2015 2nd dog
Curly Rich 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

hard work at my limit with this one.

with gmc
Hidden 05/Sep/14 TR
Stanners 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Grease didn't ruin this one! Fantastic top crack :D

with Andy G
brian watson 30/Aug/14 TR
with shunt
RFWilkie 15/Aug/14 Lead dog


LJC 09/Aug/14 2nd
with Jamie, George
brian watson 09/Aug/14 TR rpt
with shunt
csd23 03/Aug/14 2nd
with Tim Miller
nige pacer 02/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Mike Lea
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead dog
Thinker01 12/Jul/14 Lead dog

Missed the undercuts and sat on the gear

with Becster
Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tash 01/Jul/14 2nd
with ali k
jon_ridley 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
davidclare 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
stuart34 09/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tom thorne
matt.jj 07/Jun/14 TR RP

Climbed with a shunt, and a halfway rest. The key is in the hand sequence which I got wrong the first time. Easy to protect before making the crux moves. Definitely lead next time.

MPSBunny 24/May/14 2nd dog

Took a couple of intentional second falls to build confidence.

Brannock 24/May/14 Lead
Steve954 17/May/14 TR dog

The first part was great but found the crack almost impossible needing Rich to repeatedly give me a very tight rope to hold my weight for the next move :-(

with Richard, Rich
Ash Sayers 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S


mattc 17/Mar/14 TR O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
brices 08/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Started up this then finished up Juggler. Felt the holds and didn't fancy it for the last route of the day

with Remus
will moy 16/Feb/14 Lead RP
with paul taylor
paultaylor 16/Feb/14 2nd
Hidden ??/2014 -
Sophie Nunn 29/Dec/13 TR rpt
Hidden 01/Dec/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Dec/13 2nd dog
dandry 01/Dec/13 2nd dog
brian watson 06/Oct/13 TR dog
with shunt
brian watson 06/Oct/13 TR rpt
with shunt
Sam Husband 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Woger, Ed
Stroppy 24/Aug/13 Lead RP


elbeanio 03/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 17/Jul/13 TR O/S

Fierce! But good

with Pete
Ciderslider 07/Jul/13 TR dog

Nearly got it clean first time, then sieged it!!!!!

with Ben
climbtim 30/Jun/13 TR
Hidden 29/Jun/13 TR
Luxulyan 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Martin
MontyH 19/Jun/13 TR
with pete frost
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead RP
richiebongo 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
gibsond 04/Jun/13 Lead dog

Disappointed not to get this clean. Last climb of the evening and the crack was very greasy. To make matter worse I put a nut at the point in the crack where the required hand hold is located. Once I rearranged the gear it became doable. Will have another go.

Monkey_Alan 04/Jun/13 Lead dog

Put a nut where I should've had my fingers, pumped myself silly trying to climb around it.

with Matt Tyson
danJBA 31/May/13 Lead O/S
Kayan 31/May/13 2nd
Dan Hostford 26/May/13 Lead RP
Dan Hostford 26/May/13 Lead dog
Jonathan Emett 21/May/13 Lead rpt
Graham Westbrook 16/May/13 Lead O/S
mattc 13/May/13 2nd
Hidden 01/May/13 2nd
bradfry 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Luke
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
jez_palmer 06/Apr/13 TR dog
The Ivanator 13/Jan/13 TR O/S

Nice little sequence, went very smoothly on top rope, but sure it is a different beast on the sharp end. Will have to come back on a warmer day to have a crack at leading.

with Sue
Hidden 13/Jan/13 TR
ianto ??/2013 -
LukeyG 18/Dec/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Dec/12 Lead O/S
mark schramm 27/Oct/12 Lead dog
with Jamie
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Jamiet297 27/Oct/12 2nd dog
Stroppy 20/Oct/12 Lead dnf
with Will Fuller
trevor macalonan 15/Oct/12 Lead dog
with Richy
Hidden 15/Oct/12 2nd dog
Steve Wakeford 14/Oct/12 Lead dnf

A PROJECT! This is well within my grasp and will be climbed, ground up.... soon! Spent myself placing gear on crux, tried to have it up the crux after having a word with myself and lobbed off... I'll be back.

pearson9596 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Caroline Culwick, Lizzie Culwick
Hidden 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Stroppy 12/Sep/12 Lead dnf
with Rob Thomas
GPN 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Annette
selbs83 23/Aug/12 2nd
budchawla 18/Aug/12 2nd dog

Well led by Justin, I had to sit on the rope to get gear out - not sure if it would have gone clean anyway but felt like it maybe could have

Anthony Dixon 04/Aug/12 Lead dog
smolders 15/Jul/12 2nd dog
with David P
dprctr 15/Jul/12 Lead dog

Very hard finger locks. Total sandbag.

philhilo 08/Jul/12 2nd dog

Sopping wet. Good effort by Helen to get up it even dogging. Could hold none of the crack holds. Looked nice!

with Helen E
Hidden ?/Jul/12 TR
mattshort 30/Jun/12 Lead dog
mattpw 30/Jun/12 2nd rpt

Led up to crux, managed to place enough gear in the crack but too knackered to complete so left for Matt S to finish! Managed final moves without too much difficulty on second, once I'd extracted my nuts!

kelliroberts3 30/Jun/12 2nd β
with merlin march
Hidden 21/Apr/12 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
tobydunford 15/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd dog
Alex Mason 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S

If this had one more move it would get eng 6a, if it was twice as long it would be eng 6b, Weird!

Mr Tickle 11/Apr/12 2nd rpt
katiep 01/Apr/12 Lead dog

Wow, never have I dogged a route so much before.

with Matt C
Hidden 01/Apr/12 2nd
manwithacam 24/Mar/12 2nd

Quite close to coming off this, rather tricky

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/12 Lead O/S
clams ??/2012 Lead dog

Fell off, put good nut in, finished

with PR&K
Hidden 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 16/Sep/11 2nd
Steve954 04/Sep/11 TR

Like last time got ti undercut but could not get up onto the vertical crack. Rich successfully top roped it, well happy. Andy got up it with considerable assistant from a very tight rope (violin string)

with Alex, Andy, Rich
archiecb 03/Sep/11 2nd RP

Attempted this 5 years ago when I first started climbing, couldnt do the crux. Went back today and did it first attempt on second. Perhaps I will come back and give it a Lead attempt.

jtree03 19/Aug/11 TR
Amy Kilpin 06/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead dnf
3 Names 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
thetradlad 24/Jul/11 2nd dog

Very greasy :(

Hidden 24/Jul/11 TR
simoncov 25/Jun/11 TR dog
with Davin
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead RP
Monkey_Alan 04/Jun/11 Lead dog

Reversed back to the ledge for a rest three times, still got totally pumped in the upper crack and had to rest on gear. Full on!

Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/May/11 2nd O/S
tobydunford 14/May/11 2nd rpt
with Angus
nick hawkins 13/May/11 TR dog
sarpedon 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Didn't have the correct size nuts for the upper crack, so it turned out to be very committing.

Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
matt_read 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
paultaylor 26/Mar/11 Lead
thomb 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Harry
jezb1 08/Mar/11 Lead dog

Siege tactics! I failed, Toby got a bit further, then I finished off after several rests. A terrible affair but nice route.

Ybot Htulk 08/Mar/11 2nd dog


with Jez
Hidden 24/Nov/10 Lead O/S
mark_wellin 22/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Quite good. Hard moves at the top. My second jammed one of the cams at the overlap. Bugger

eddy-on-the-rocks 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Immaculate rock on the top crack. I had some excitement trying to scramble around to Freda at the bottom afterwards when a wave broke over my head. Yikes!

with Ashley
brian watson 07/Nov/10 TR rpt
Sophie Nunn 19/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Andy
Graham C 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Derek
cayteye 11/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Kevin Faux
Hidden 07/Jul/10 2nd
natalietanzer 07/Jul/10 Lead
with marcus
Kevster ?/Jul/10 -
adrianjenner 30/Jun/10 Lead dog
Tom87 28/Jun/10 TR O/S
with Poppy
Hidden 27/Jun/10 TR dnf
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead β
Hidden 27/Jun/10 TR dnf
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead dog
ChrisBrooke 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Sayuri Holmann
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead dog
mark schramm 03/Jun/10 Lead β
with wilki, si
Simon Allcock ?/Jun/10 2nd
with Mark
Spence22 09/May/10 Lead dog

The hardest E1 i've ever climbed and the only E1 i've ever fallen off. Would have taken a whipper but managed to stick a micro cam (0) in the upper crack. Turns out i'd missed a foot hold.

LukeyG ?/Apr/10 Lead
Dizz 14/Mar/10 2nd
with David B
uncontrollable 20/Feb/10 TR RP

chucked down a top rope to retrieve gear after falling off a couple of times trying to lead it.

with Des
Indy Nile 20/Feb/10 TR dog
Hidden 31/Jan/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2010 -
AlistairB 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Henry
Hidden 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 17/Oct/09 Lead dnf
with Thomasina
Ceridwen 17/Oct/09 TR rpt
with Thomasina
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead β
Steve954 15/Aug/09 TR dnf

got up to the undercut and one hand one the vertical crack but could not progress

with Andy, Rich
KRB 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S

A good couple of moves with the cliff and setting sun to ourselves.

with Oliver Bridges
w.pettet-smith 12/Jul/09 2nd
with david coley
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead rpt
MarkRyder 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Lee
jezb1 22/Apr/09 Lead

Nearly clean! Sweaty hand popped off :( Back on and finished in in one.

jezb1 17/Apr/09 Lead dog

Really pi$$ed off. Practised on a top rope previously and f'ed up the clean lead with a few rests today. Was feeling crap, so I'll try and do it clean next week.

Dan_Carroll 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Beck Holland 13/Apr/09 2nd dog
MontyH 01/Apr/09 TR
with lee lander and Paul Milton
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead
dmoir 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Floris
Ed Babs 08/Mar/09 Lead RP

at last, my nemesis goes!

with Trevor
trev_f 08/Mar/09 2nd β
with Ed
Hidden 22/Feb/09 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2009 -
Alex More ??/2009 Lead O/S
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Hidden 29/Aug/08 2nd dog
djking1983 29/Aug/08 Lead dog
bpmclimb 27/Aug/08 Lead dog
with Clare
bpmclimb 27/Aug/08 TR rpt
with Clare
Mr Tickle 16/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Lovely moves well protected but struggled with moves after in-situ gear.

with davenev
Dave Foster ?/Aug/08 2nd

One fall on initial moves in the crack. Good short route.

with Carl
davenev ?/Aug/08 2nd dnf
with luke
Hidden 22/Jul/08 Lead dog
jamie ward 04/Jul/08 TR dog
with Jenny
davidgent ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Kunal
London Luke ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Bern ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Andy Mos
riddle 30/May/08 Lead dog

Great fun!

with Yasmina
tobydunford 27/May/08 Lead β

tenous climbing on the top headwall, but brilliant gear underneath the overlap. Got it third go after two large whippers, a good little climb!

LiLaMont 27/May/08 2nd β
timharrison 18/May/08 Lead rpt
with Johan Aukerstrom
bigie bob 14/May/08 Lead O/S
haydng 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel
RMG 10/May/08 2nd
with haydng
Owen W-G 03/May/08 Lead β

At the v far 'safe but hard' end of the E1 spectrum. Holds better than expected but surprised and disappointed to find no fingerjams required. Betaflashed after watching some chap falling/resting twice.

with Tony Seale
mark schramm ?/May/08 TR
Simon Allcock ?/May/08 TR
with Mark
mark schramm 04/Apr/08 TR
Matt Bennett 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 09/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Matt
Neil Adams 26/Jan/08 Lead dog

Slumped onto gear in the upper crack

with Andy N
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
ASchwirtz ??/2008 Lead O/S
fallingrocks 04/Nov/07 TR
with Alex Borressen
Kirill 31/Oct/07 2nd dog
cem 31/Oct/07 Lead β

Top-roped it 11 years previously but I didn't remember a great deal about that occasion, so almost an onsight

Chris the Tall 15/Sep/07 2nd dog

Fell off near top - it was very hot and fingers got very sweaty !

with Dave T
AJ007 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Mike H
hailtryfan ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S

Cool! Top moves up the finger crack were easier than they look

MontyH 11/Jun/07 TR

a bit damp and greasy, good route.

with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
tonanf ?/May/07 Lead dog

exactlay as happeded last year, fell going for the crack, then climbd real easy?????

with arpollard
timharrison 17/Apr/07 Lead RP

At Last!!

with Sheena
Hidden 09/Apr/07 TR dog
timharrison 31/Mar/07 Lead dnf
timharrison 31/Mar/07 TR RP

Piece of piss, I can't believe that I have struggled to lead it....

Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
jake-jones ??/2007 Lead RP
with rob gajland
timharrison 09/Sep/06 AltLd dnf

I was a wimp, plus had cramp in my biceps

tonanf ?/Sep/06 2nd
with burt
Richard Horn 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
oldmanrivers ??/2006 -
chrisbevins ??/2006 Lead RP
Alaric 26/Jun/05 TR dog
Hidden 24/Jun/05 TR
Oli 10/Jun/05 Lead RP
with Will Vaughan
Hidden 10/Apr/05 TR dog
Hidden ?/Feb/05 Lead β
feilx ??/2005 -
Hedley ??/2005 2nd dog
with Reuben
Dorset ??/2005 TR
with Mark James and Julian Taylor
brian watson ??/2005 Lead RP
with Pam Joliffe
Hidden 17/May/04 -
timharrison 30/Apr/04 TR
with Abi Marchent
shoulders 10/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with maria, mart, chrisevans, dai
simon kimber ?/Nov/03 TR


Hidden 05/Jul/03 TR
rapidrich 29/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/03 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Feb/03 2nd
brew_guru ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/02 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/01 Lead dog
migs493 20/May/01 Lead


pezzerrr 11/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
CraigMac1 ??/2000 -
Ian Jones ??/2000 Solo O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
akamini ?/Apr/99 Lead
Hidden 28/Mar/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
John Southworth ??/1999 Lead O/S
Roget 27/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
nacnud 15/Mar/97 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/Oct/96 Lead
with Kirsten
cem ?/Sep/96 TR
Hidden 24/Aug/96 2nd dog
andyfeds ?/Aug/95 TR
Didymus 05/May/95 2nd dog
with Marcus
Guy ??/1995 -
Dringo ??/1995 -
OMSKB 04/May/93 2nd
with Richard Winfield
steve taylor ?/Apr/92 Solo
with mark grover
Nigel Coe ??/1992 Lead

Approx date

WB ??/1992 -
Mark Kemball 09/Aug/91 Lead
with Alison Dorey
ellie macpherson ?/Aug/91 Lead

V hot and sweaty

with Neil Macpherson, Graeme Jarvis
ellie macpherson ?/May/91 2nd

Pumpy, hot and greasy

with Steve Irvine, Reuben Welch, Ian Holmes
Hidden ?/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/90 Lead dog
Colin13 ?/May/90 Lead O/S
craig h 27/Jan/90 Solo rpt
craig h 14/Jan/90 2nd O/S
MoWalker3 19/Nov/89 TR
Hidden 25/Jul/88 2nd
Nigel Coe ?/Apr/87 Lead
Nigel Coe 18/May/86 TR
Nigel Coe 08/Jun/83 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, BenFitzG, hutchay, dh7892, Steve Wakeford, Hidden, Hidden, Monkey_Alan, givemetea, Ezy Ryder, Dorset, CosmosKey
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Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set