Stroof** E1 5c
[Concentration, 2 kb]10m. A route for those who like them short, sharp and well protected. Amble up the lower section and assault the central crack in the white headwall. Brief but excellent. © ROCKFAX
FA. Tony Wilmott 12.65 Dec/1965

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: Concentration © AJM
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 283 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14

Hidden - TR - 05/Sep/14

Grease didn't ruin this one! Fantastic top crack :D
Stanners - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/14 with Andy G

brian watson - TR - 30/Aug/14 with shunt

Tough.
RFWilkie - Lead dog - 15/Aug/14

LJC - 2nd - 09/Aug/14 with Jamie, George

brian watson - TR rpt - 09/Aug/14 with shunt

csd23 - 2nd - 03/Aug/14 with Tim Miller

nige pacer - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/14 with Mike Lea

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Jul/14

Missed the undercuts and sat on the gear
Thinker01 - Lead dog - 12/Jul/14 with Becster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14

tash - 2nd - 01/Jul/14 with ali k

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Dave Clare

davidclare - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Jon Ridley

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/14 with Tom thorne

Climbed with a shunt, and a halfway rest. The key is in the hand sequence which I got wrong the first time. Easy to protect before making the crux moves. Definitely lead next time.
matt.jj - TR RP - 07/Jun/14

Took a couple of intentional second falls to build confidence.
MPSBunny - 2nd dog - 24/May/14 with John Brannock

Brannock - Lead - 24/May/14

The first part was great but found the crack almost impossible needing Rich to repeatedly give me a very tight rope to hold my weight for the next move :-(
Steve954 - TR dog - 17/May/14 with Richard, Rich

Tough!!
Ash Sayers - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Marcin78 - TR - 31/Mar/14

mattc - TR O/S - 17/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14

Started up this then finished up Juggler. Felt the holds and didn't fancy it for the last route of the day
brices - Lead dnf - 08/Mar/14 with Remus

will moy - Lead RP - 16/Feb/14 with paul taylor

paultaylor - 2nd - 16/Feb/14 with Will I Am

Hidden - 2014

Sophie Nunn - TR rpt - 29/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Dec/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Dec/13

brian watson - TR dog - 06/Oct/13 with shunt

brian watson - TR rpt - 06/Oct/13 with shunt

Sam Husband - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Woger, Ed

RKirke - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/13

Finally!
Stroppy - Lead RP - 24/Aug/13 with Roger Kirke, Sam Husband

elbeanio - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/13

Fierce! But good
Cheese Monkey - TR O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Pete

Nearly got it clean first time, then sieged it!!!!!
Ciderslider - TR dog - 07/Jul/13 with Ben

climbtim - TR - 30/Jun/13 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - TR - 29/Jun/13

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13 with Martin

MontyH - TR - 19/Jun/13 with pete frost

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Jun/13

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus

Disappointed not to get this clean. Last climb of the evening and the crack was very greasy. To make matter worse I put a nut at the point in the crack where the required hand hold is located. Once I rearranged the gear it became doable. Will have another go.
gibsond - Lead dog - 04/Jun/13 with James Bisset

Put a nut where I should've had my fingers, pumped myself silly trying to climb around it.
Monkey_Alan - Lead dog - 04/Jun/13 with Matt Tyson

danJBA - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Matt Roberts, James Hoar

Dan Hostford - Lead RP - 26/May/13

Dan Hostford - Lead dog - 26/May/13

Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 21/May/13 with Eddinabox, andyf

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - 16/May/13

mattc - 2nd - 13/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 01/May/13

bradfry - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Luke

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/13

jez_palmer - TR dog - 06/Apr/13

Nice little sequence, went very smoothly on top rope, but sure it is a different beast on the sharp end. Will have to come back on a warmer day to have a crack at leading.
The Ivanator - TR O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Sue

Hidden - TR - 13/Jan/13

ianto - 2013

LukeyG - Lead - 18/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Dec/12

mark schramm - Lead dog - 27/Oct/12 with Jamie

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Oct/12

Jamiet297 - 2nd dog - 27/Oct/12 with mark schramm

Stroppy - Lead dnf - 20/Oct/12 with Will Fuller

trevor macalonan - Lead dog - 15/Oct/12 with Richy

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/12

A PROJECT! This is well within my grasp and will be climbed, ground up.... soon! Spent myself placing gear on crux, tried to have it up the crux after having a word with myself and lobbed off... I'll be back.
Steve Wakeford - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/12

pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Caroline Culwick, Lizzie Culwick

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Stroppy - Lead dnf - 12/Sep/12 with Rob Thomas

GPN - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Annette

selbs83 - 2nd - 23/Aug/12 with Mike Dudley

Well led by Justin, I had to sit on the rope to get gear out - not sure if it would have gone clean anyway but felt like it maybe could have
budchawla - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/12 with Justin Rennie

Anthony Dixon - Lead dog - 04/Aug/12

smolders - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/12 with David P

Very hard finger locks. Total sandbag.
dprctr - Lead dog - 15/Jul/12 with Martin Oldham

Sopping wet. Good effort by Helen to get up it even dogging. Could hold none of the crack holds. Looked nice!
philhilo - 2nd dog - 08/Jul/12 with Helen E

Hidden - TR - Jul/12

mattshort - Lead dog - 30/Jun/12 with Matt Wallace

Led up to crux, managed to place enough gear in the crack but too knackered to complete so left for Matt S to finish! Managed final moves without too much difficulty on second, once I'd extracted my nuts!
mattpw - 2nd rpt - 30/Jun/12 with Matt Short

kelliroberts3 - 2nd β - 30/Jun/12 with merlin march

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Apr/12

Welcome to Swanage trad. Got my arse kicked.. Pulled on gear through crux.
dave657 - Lead dog - 15/Apr/12 with Toby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

tobydunford - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Dave Ripley

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Apr/12

If this had one more move it would get eng 6a, if it was twice as long it would be eng 6b, Weird!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/12 with Luke Tickle

Mr Tickle - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/12

Wow, never have I dogged a route so much before.
katiep - Lead dog - 01/Apr/12 with Matt C

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/12

Quite close to coming off this, rather tricky
manwithacam - 2nd - 24/Mar/12 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Dan Metcalfe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/12

Fell off, put good nut in, finished
clams - Lead dog - 2012 with PR&K

Bisset - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11 with Alan Blanchflower

Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 16/Sep/11 with James Bisset

Like last time got ti undercut but could not get up onto the vertical crack. Rich successfully top roped it, well happy. Andy got up it with considerable assistant from a very tight rope (violin string)
Steve954 - TR - 04/Sep/11 with Alex, Andy, Rich

Attempted this 5 years ago when I first started climbing, couldnt do the crux. Went back today and did it first attempt on second. Perhaps I will come back and give it a Lead attempt.
archiecb - 2nd RP - 03/Sep/11

jtree03 - TR - 19/Aug/11

Amy Kilpin - 2nd - 06/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - Aug/11

3 Names - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Sumee Holloway

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Jake Lodge

Very greasy :(
thetradlad - 2nd dog - 24/Jul/11 with Laurence Everitt

Hidden - TR - 24/Jul/11

simoncov - TR dog - 25/Jun/11 with Davin

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Jun/11

Reversed back to the ledge for a rest three times, still got totally pumped in the upper crack and had to rest on gear. Full on!
Monkey_Alan - Lead dog - 04/Jun/11 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/May/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/May/11

tobydunford - 2nd rpt - 14/May/11 with Angus

nick hawkins - TR dog - 13/May/11

Didn't have the correct size nuts for the upper crack, so it turned out to be very committing.
sarpedon - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Mar/11

matt_read - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Paul Taylor

paultaylor - Lead - 26/Mar/11 with maffer the faffer

thomb - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Harry

Siege tactics! I failed, Toby got a bit further, then I finished off after several rests. A terrible affair but nice route.
jezb1 - Lead dog - 08/Mar/11

Hard.
Ybot Htulk - 2nd dog - 08/Mar/11 with Jez

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/10

Quite good. Hard moves at the top. My second jammed one of the cams at the overlap. Bugger
mark_wellin - Lead O/S - 22/Nov/10

Immaculate rock on the top crack. I had some excitement trying to scramble around to Freda at the bottom afterwards when a wave broke over my head. Yikes!
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/10 with Ashley

brian watson - TR rpt - 07/Nov/10

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/10 with Andy

Graham C - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Derek

cayteye - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Kevin Faux

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jul/10

natalietanzer - Lead - 07/Jul/10 with marcus

Kevster - Jul/10

adrianjenner - Lead dog - 30/Jun/10 with Tom Bailey

Tom87 - TR O/S - 28/Jun/10 with Poppy

Hidden - TR dnf - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead β - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - TR dnf - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Jun/10

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Sayuri Holmann

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Jun/10

mark schramm - Lead β - 03/Jun/10 with wilki, si

Simon Allcock - 2nd - Jun/10 with Mark

The hardest E1 i've ever climbed and the only E1 i've ever fallen off. Would have taken a whipper but managed to stick a micro cam (0) in the upper crack. Turns out i'd missed a foot hold.
Spence22 - Lead dog - 09/May/10

LukeyG - Lead - Apr/10

Dizz - 2nd - 14/Mar/10 with David B

chucked down a top rope to retrieve gear after falling off a couple of times trying to lead it.
uncontrollable - TR RP - 20/Feb/10 with Des

Indy Nile - TR dog - 20/Feb/10 with Frodo Stickel

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

AlistairB - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/09 with Henry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/09

Ceridwen - Lead dnf - 17/Oct/09 with Thomasina

Ceridwen - TR rpt - 17/Oct/09 with Thomasina

Hidden - Lead β - 16/Aug/09

got up to the undercut and one hand one the vertical crack but could not progress
Steve954 - TR dnf - 15/Aug/09 with Andy, Rich

A good couple of moves with the cliff and setting sun to ourselves.
KRB - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Oliver Bridges

w.pettet-smith - 2nd - 12/Jul/09 with david coley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Jun/09

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 06/Jun/09 with Lee

Nearly clean! Sweaty hand popped off :( Back on and finished in in one.
jezb1 - Lead - 22/Apr/09

Really pi$$ed off. Practised on a top rope previously and f'ed up the clean lead with a few rests today. Was feeling crap, so I'll try and do it clean next week.
jezb1 - Lead dog - 17/Apr/09

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with Rebecca Holland

Beckholland - 2nd dog - 13/Apr/09 with Dan_Carroll

MontyH - TR - 01/Apr/09 with lee lander and Paul Milton

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/09

dmoir - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Floris

at last, my nemesis goes!
Ed Babs - Lead RP - 08/Mar/09 with Trevor

trev_f - 2nd β - 08/Mar/09 with Ed

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

Alex More - Lead O/S - 2009

paulh1967 - 2009

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/08

djking1983 - Lead dog - 29/Aug/08

bpmclimb - Lead dog - 27/Aug/08 with Clare

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 27/Aug/08 with Clare

Lovely moves well protected but struggled with moves after in-situ gear.
Mr Tickle - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/08 with davenev

One fall on initial moves in the crack. Good short route.
Dave Foster - 2nd - Aug/08 with Carl

davenev - 2nd dnf - Aug/08 with luke

the juicy dangler - Lead dog - 22/Jul/08 with chris lycett

jamie ward - TR dog - 04/Jul/08 with Jenny

davidgent - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with Kunal

London Luke - Lead O/S - Jul/08

Bern - 2nd - Jun/08 with Andy Mos

Great fun!
riddle - Lead dog - 30/May/08 with Yasmina

tenous climbing on the top headwall, but brilliant gear underneath the overlap. Got it third go after two large whippers, a good little climb!
tobydunford - Lead β - 27/May/08 with Lisa Paling

lisapaling - 2nd β - 27/May/08 with Toby Dunford

timharrison - Lead rpt - 18/May/08 with Johan Aukerstrom

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 14/May/08

haydng - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Rachel

RMG - 2nd - 10/May/08 with haydng

At the v far 'safe but hard' end of the E1 spectrum. Holds better than expected but surprised and disappointed to find no fingerjams required. Betaflashed after watching some chap falling/resting twice.
Owen W-G - Lead β - 03/May/08 with Tony Seale

mark schramm - TR - May/08

Simon Allcock - TR - May/08 with Mark

mark schramm - TR - 04/Apr/08

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08

Jonathan Emett - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Matt

Slumped onto gear in the upper crack
Neil Adams - Lead dog - 26/Jan/08 with Andy N

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 2008 with Scott Swalling

fallingrocks - TR - 04/Nov/07 with Alex Borressen

Kirill - 2nd dog - 31/Oct/07 with Charles Moreton

Top-roped it 11 years previously but I didn't remember a great deal about that occasion, so almost an onsight
cem - Lead β - 31/Oct/07 with Kirill Spiridonov

Fell off near top - it was very hot and fingers got very sweaty !
Chris the Tall - 2nd dog - 15/Sep/07 with Dave T

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/07

Cool! Top moves up the finger crack were easier than they look
hailtryfan - 2nd O/S - Jul/07 with AJ Bowley

a bit damp and greasy, good route.
MontyH - TR - 11/Jun/07 with Pete Frost and Paul Milton

exactlay as happeded last year, fell going for the crack, then climbd real easy?????
tonanf - Lead dog - May/07 with arpollard

At Last!!
timharrison - Lead RP - 17/Apr/07 with Sheena

Hidden - TR dog - 09/Apr/07

timharrison - Lead dnf - 31/Mar/07 with Trevor Macalonan

Piece of piss, I can't believe that I have struggled to lead it....
timharrison - TR RP - 31/Mar/07 with Trevor Macalonan

Rob Kennard - 2007

Richard White - Lead O/S - 2007

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 2007 with Dad

jake-jones - Lead RP - 2007 with rob gajland

I was a wimp, plus had cramp in my biceps
timharrison - AltLd dnf - 09/Sep/06 with Trevor Macalonan

tonanf - 2nd - Sep/06 with burt

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/06

dan gibson - 2006

oldmanrivers - 2006

chrisbevins - Lead RP - 2006

Alaric - TR dog - 26/Jun/05

Hidden - TR - 24/Jun/05

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Jun/05

Hidden - TR dog - 10/Apr/05

A fierce little testpiece. Well protected and lovely moves.
Richard White - Lead β - Feb/05

feilx - 2005

Hedley - 2nd dog - 2005 with Reuben

Dorset - TR - 2005 with Mark James and Julian Taylor

brian watson - Lead RP - 2005 with Pam Joliffe

Hidden - 17/May/04

timharrison - TR - 30/Apr/04 with Abi Marchent

shoulders - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/04 with maria, mart, chrisevans, dai

shunted
simon kimber - TR - Nov/03

Hidden - TR - 05/Jul/03

rapidrich - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/03 with Andy McCluskey

Hidden - Lead dog - Mar/03

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Feb/03

brew_guru - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/01

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Jun/01

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/01

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

CraigMac1 - 2000

Ian Jones - Solo O/S - 2000 with Karen Ghiselli

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

akamini - Lead - Apr/99

Hidden - Lead - 28/Mar/99

Hidden - Lead - 1999

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 1999

Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/98 with jon

nacnud - Lead - 15/Mar/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1997

kp64zl - Lead - Oct/96 with Kirsten

cem - TR - Sep/96

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/96

andyfeds - TR - Aug/95

Jon Didymus - 2nd dog - 05/May/95 with Marcus

Guy - 1995

Dringo - 1995

OMSKB - 2nd - 04/May/93 with Richard Winfield

steve taylor - Solo - Apr/92 with mark grover

Approx date
Nigel Coe - Lead - 1992

WB - 1992

Mark Kemball - Lead - 09/Aug/91 with Alison Dorey

V hot and sweaty
ellie macpherson - Lead - Aug/91 with Neil Macpherson, Graeme Jarvis

Pumpy, hot and greasy
ellie macpherson - 2nd - May/91 with Steve Irvine, Reuben Welch, Ian Holmes

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/90

ChrisJD - Lead dog - 19/May/90

craig h - Solo rpt - 27/Jan/90

craig h - 2nd O/S - 14/Jan/90

MoWalker3 - TR - 19/Nov/89

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/88

Nigel Coe - Lead - Apr/87

Nigel Coe - TR - 18/May/86

Nigel Coe - TR - 08/Jun/83

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, dh7892, Steve Wakeford, Monkey_Alan, givemetea, Ezy Ryder, Dorset, CosmosKey

Voting
Total votes cast 188
hard E20 of 66
E20 of 66
easy E28 of 66
hard E122 of 66
E131 of 66
easy E14 of 66
hard HVS1 of 66
HVS0 of 66
easy HVS0 of 66
hard 6a0 of 62
6a1 of 62
easy 6a3 of 62
hard 5c7 of 62
5c41 of 62
easy 5c10 of 62
hard 5b0 of 62
5b0 of 62
easy 5b0 of 62
3 Stars10 of 60
2 Stars42 of 60
1 Star8 of 60
0 Stars0 of 60
Bag of .....0 of 60
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Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf