33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A sustained, varied climb and one of the best E1s at Swanage. Start under a prominent, smooth-sided corner.

1) 5a, 18m. Climb a corner to the roof, and swing right to beneath the smooth-sided corner. Climb the fine corner to the mid-height break and belay on a ledge to the right.
2) 5b, 15m. Step right onto the wall and climb easily, but boldly up to the chert band and roof - old hidden peg. Arrange good gear, then step left and climb the overhang to finish up the bold wall. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, P.Sharman 31.3.74 31/Mar/1974

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

climbomaniac 27/Sep Lead O/S

A lot of fun!

AJM 12/Sep AltLd O/S

Led p1. Cracking pitch.

Tubs 12/Sep AltLd O/S
with AJM
petegunn 17/Aug AltLd
with Davina
Hidden 17/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug AltLd β
Hidden 07/Aug AltLd O/S
Geoffers 29/Jul Lead O/S
with Tim
jungle 11/Jul 2nd dog
with Paul Mcarthy
Pete Scott 11/Jul AltLd O/S

Led P1 (great!). Tom Finished up P2 of Toiler on the Sea

James1483 ?/Jul 2nd
with Chris
islandlynx 27/Jun Lead O/S

Linked as one. Great route. The corner looks hard from below but has very positive holds

TomRiddelsdell 27/Jun 2nd β
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun 2nd
jon_gill1 14/Jun AltLd O/S

Me p1 and JR P2

with nick loc, john ripley
Steve954 06/Jun 2nd O/S

Moving out from under the roof and up the corner is really hand work if you are not used to lay backs. Well happy to have done it.

with Paul Archer
felixizzy 24/May AltLd O/S


with Bernard
FlavioL1989 09/May Lead O/S
Tim_C7 03/May AltLd O/S
with Luke Williams
London Luke 03/May 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 19/Apr AltLd rpt
with Brian
brian watson 19/Apr AltLd rpt
Hidden 08/Feb AltLd rpt
adam 24 31/Jan AltLd

Led the second pitch, have done the first one previously. Excellent route.

Hidden 31/Jan AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Dec/14 Lead
Cheese Monkey 05/Nov/14 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 02/Oct/14 Lead
with Metal
jacobjlloyd 13/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
with Peach
andycash 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Ash
Ash Sayers 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
stevoland 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with John
ian d f 13/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

led p1

with Paul K
Hidden 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tash 02/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
tash 01/Aug/14 2nd
with ali k
clipskipper 02/Jul/14 AltLd rpt

Still a classic :-)

with Sonia Robins
Robin Woodward ?/Jul/14 AltLd dog

P1 was lovely climbing, all the holds there, nice exposure on second. Lead P.2 and tried to go too far left after the overhang before backing down and heading up a bit further right, but got over-pumped and had a slump. Sent OK after a rest however ripped a block off the arete where I'd slumped previously.

jon_ridley 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
davidclare 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
mike mo 20/Jun/14 Lead
with Edd
Monkey_Alan 19/Jun/14 AltLd dog

Led P2. Slipped off removing a stubborn nut on P1.

funsized 31/May/14 2nd
with Fi
mc fifi 30/May/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb. intimidating from the bottom but solid holds and good gear. Linked the two pitches together and went up direct over overhang. Not as in guide book but still 5b. oh and 1st proper E1 lead :)

bede.west 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
Martin Haworth 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch. Found the smooth sided corner on pitch 1 quite strenuous. Plenty of pro before having to commit to the overhang on 2nd pitch. Really nice route.

CurlyStevo 11/Jan/14 AltLd

Brilliant route. I lead pitch 1. I'm not sure which pitch is the crux. I find the 5b move on pitch 2 more like 5a and the gear is good for that move, there is a few 4c/5a moves above that where the gear is a little below you but not too bold. The bolder climbing to the top is much easier but the rock is a bit suspect. Pitch 1 I find quite sustained and the moves near the top of the crack I find fairly stiff 5a but this pitch is well protected throughout.

with clipskipper
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
sarpedon 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Best trad route I've climbed in Swanage so far.

Sophie Nunn 27/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Martin
Luxulyan 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Strung pitches together, went straight up not onto ledge.

with Kev Brown
Wevcore 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Rich
crossdressingrodney 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome. Bottom half is a brilliant tough HVS.

Hidden 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead
Kirill 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Stevo
CurlyStevo ?/Jun/13 2nd
TommyA 11/May/13 2nd O/S
tim.fairhall 11/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tommy
saxdonkey 11/May/13 2nd O/S
Stroppy 30/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Good moves on the crux, found P1 a little more interesting though.

RKirke 30/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 21/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

Led P2.

Julian Prieto 21/Apr/13 AltLd dog

Led P1. Got pumped and took a fall on P1.

arose 20/Apr/13 AltLd

Great route

with Daj
Hidden 05/Mar/13 2nd dnf
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
saxdonkey ??/2013 2nd
ian caton ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Abi
misterb 02/Dec/12 2nd

feckin ard at the top

with justin
Justin T 02/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Led in one pitch bit stiff at the top!

with Nick B
ChrisBrooke 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. P1 Amble up to the roof then get stuck in. There's perfect gear in it and plenty of opportunity to rest in balance to place it. Not as bold as it looks from below. P2. I went left, following the diagram (rather than the description) and found the rusty peg (did not bother clipping what's left of it). Exciting rock up on to the little ledge, then moved back right into the groove and climbed on good holds (poor gear) to the top. Lovely thrilling experience.

with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen
tsyrett 12/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Tom Livingstone 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
jcooper8 10/Sep/12 2nd
Chris Sansum 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Sep/12 Lead
with Frank ?, Ian Bryant
Dizz 26/Aug/12 AltLd
with Hugh T
Stuart Johnston 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Dave Cowell, Cat St. Claire
adam 24 26/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
pelvoux 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lead the 2nd pitch but I may not have choose the right route. Tried diagonal left but got stuck at a roof sticking out with a large flat mantle on the left... and I went down. Started on the right of the belay ledge with a long running without gear, 2 small cams under a big block and up to the top on the right of this big block. I do not think this is the correct 2nd pitch route but the rockfax guide is a bit confusing.

with Chris Bull
Hidden 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Dave Mahon ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Followed P1 - wild! P2 was a push over.

with Brian Mead
quiffhanger 03/Jun/12 Lead rpt
mc fifi 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
funsized ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Fi
Hidden 30/May/12 Lead dog
3 Names 17/May/12 2nd
with Ed Bulman
paultaylor 16/May/12 AltLd O/S

P2. Will be back to lead the first pitch. Awesome line.

will moy 16/May/12 AltLd dog
with paul taylor
quiffhanger 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Very nice. On Jake's recommendation took a diagonal left line for the 2nd pitch up to a cool mantle onto a protruding triangular block.

jacobjlloyd 12/May/12 Lead rpt
with Sophie
stuaart 21/Apr/12 2nd

Chris led p1, then we escaped up right instead of p2 as it was raining / hailing.

with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn
chris_B 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only: finished on 2nd pitch of August Angie in the hail/rain because I'd done it before and it was the quicker option.

louby 21/Apr/12 2nd
chakrit 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
Dave89 03/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

alan P1 Me Pitch 2. Fun little route. Got a little lost coming off belay at end of pitch one due to guidebook and picture description confusion. If you step off right then go upwards you'll find the hidden peg

with Fat Al
Alan100 03/Dec/11 AltLd

Lead 1st

Mark Warnett ?/Dec/11 Lead O/S

cmon this is not easy E1!!! very steep and strenuous first pitch. My second fainted on the ledge which was not ideal preparation for belaying me on the 2nd pitch.

sparkass 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
pelvoux 08/Oct/11 Lead dog

Hang on the gear, the rope below the roof. But very nice 1st pitch.

with Mario
mikeyjbs 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
riddle 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Strung both pitches together

al99 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
martinazando 25/Sep/11 2nd

Tried to lead the first pitch but had to back off. Strenuous corner and second pitch overhanging and difficult to read

Dan Lane 17/Sep/11 Lead dnf

Nails, E2 if done in one pitch.I found the 2nd crux really hard, maybe i missed a hold?

Julie Carroll 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

with Helen Gibson
Marti999 02/Aug/11 AltLd rpt
Graham Westbrook 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
wi11 05/Jul/11 AltLd O/S


Sophie Nunn 25/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Matt Robinson, Ceridwen Hutchinson
Ceridwen 25/Jun/11 AltLd rpt
with Matt Hot rock, Sophie Nunn
Matthew Robinson 25/Jun/11 AltLd
bigie bob 21/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd
La Mont 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
benjino 06/May/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st Pitch

jezb1 26/Apr/11 2nd

Steep finish the crux for me

tonanf 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S

easier than i remembered

with jez, ludvic
RFWilkie 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Bit of an epic, Kev fell from second pitch ripped 3 bits of gear and ended up well below me. Effectively top roped the top pitch as Kev hurt his shoulder and needed lowering off, got rope from above to rescue me!

with Kev
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead
uncontrollable 02/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

max p1, me p2

with Max
Max Streeton 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Done many time before.

Hidden 08/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 08/Mar/11 AltLd

led 1st pitch, rested on gear.

with Alice
Hidden 19/Feb/11 2nd
Kevster 19/Feb/11 Lead O/S
cymjt ??/2011 -
Sophie Nunn 08/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with Alex
AlexD 08/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
risby 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Neil Weymouth, Tom Thorne
3 Names 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Jen Crook 27/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 09/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
manwithacam 18/Jul/10 Lead

Nice climbing

with Mike R
Tightsgirl 03/Jul/10 2nd
with DAJ
MarkRyder 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S

First pitch wet

with Mark
givemetea 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Fab route. Guidebook description of second pitch doesn't match with line on topo - did I do the second pitch of Toiler on the Sea? Lovely whatever!

with Patrick
Hidden 10/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Spence22 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with Charlie
tscoobydoo ?/May/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, then decided to do the second pitch of toiler on the sea

with phillip belcher
Hidden 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
breed 17/Apr/10 AltLd

led first pitch. was awesome!

with Ellis Bird
Hidden 14/Mar/10 AltLd
Bern 07/Mar/10 Lead rpt
colkurtz ?/Mar/10 AltLd
with Adam, Robb
Hidden 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 Lead
Monkey_Alan 18/Oct/09 AltLd rpt

Led 2nd pitch. Getting past the overhang seemed a whole lot harder than before.

uncontrollable 18/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch, Alan second pitch

with Alan B
Monkey_Alan 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch. First HVS (CC guide) or first E1 (Rockfax)! Very sustained.

Hidden 06/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/09 2nd rpt
SuseH 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Iain
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
strapless 18/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Stu, led first pitch Me Second, found very steady both pitchs

with Stu Evans
LiLaMont 15/Aug/09 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
jacobjlloyd 19/Jun/09 AltLd rpt


with Ceri Hutchinson
Ceridwen 19/Jun/09 AltLd dog

Foot slipped off pulling over the overhang, stuck it with one hand but hurt myself so rested to check out my injuries. finished the rest clean.

with Jacob
Hidden 10/Jun/09 2nd O/S
tonanf ?/Jun/09 Lead
with tomek
SGD 21/May/09 AltLd

I did P1 and we both agreed this was the harder pitch. It has all the climbing, P2 has one stiff pull and thats it. Great route though....do P1!!!

with Tom Relf
Hidden 20/May/09 2nd
jezb1 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Nice route, don't think I could have lead it...yet

feilx 28/Feb/09 2nd rpt
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S

one pitch

with Felix
Hidden 16/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
metal arms 27/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

2nd Pitch

Hidden 25/Oct/08 2nd
GPN ?/Oct/08 AltLd
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead
Richard Horn 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 15/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with Simon Chandler
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
Brown 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Henry
Oli 15/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Toby Burrell
Mr Tickle 11/Aug/08 Lead
with davenev
davenev ?/Aug/08 2nd dog


with luke
Tobes ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Oli
Ed Babs 31/May/08 Lead RP
with John Vet
tobydunford 03/May/08 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 03/May/08 2nd β
clipskipper 05/Apr/08 AltLd dog

Excellent route and definately worth some stars. Failed to plan the crux carefully enough and it spat me off . . . but I'll be back!

with Ed Babington
Hidden 23/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 12/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Heather Rogers
tonanf ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S

well hard. I was shi**ing it under the roof. My first lead of my second year. I had forgotten about fear.

with burt
Hidden 17/Mar/07 -
mat cooper ?/Mar/07 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 -
Ramon Marin 08/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with Salomon Fernandez
dan gibson 04/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
Different Steve 29/Jul/06 AltLd rpt

Led P1, surprisingly straightforward.

Hidden 02/Jul/06 2nd dog
andyfeds ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

I led bottom pitch, Max led top (where we got a bit lost)

with Max S
Bern ??/2006 -
BicepAndrews ??/2006 2nd
Kyuzo 14/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
with Markus Roggen
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
clipskipper 23/Aug/05 2nd

Nervy start to the top pitch

with Davey Boy
Owen W-G 30/Apr/05 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. UPDATE: have since done this a bunch of times, with varying difficulties on P2. The correct method is to step 1m RIGHT from the belay ledge and head straight up. If you find the mouldy peg hidden just under the overlap you are going the right way. Heading up and left from the stance is totally possible but harder with probably scarier.

with Andrew
Boxy 20/Feb/05 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
brian watson ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Tim Dunsby
DavidR 10/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Royston Smith
lost.arrow 26/May/01 Lead

HVS 5a, 5a ** in my book. Traumatised by a HVS!

with Paul Palfreyman
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
cem 12/Sep/99 AltLd O/S

Led p1

Lepista 16/Jul/99 Lead

Climbed with Dave

Hidden 08/May/99 AltLd O/S
WB 19/Nov/98 AltLd O/S
with Guy
migs493 14/Apr/98 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 28/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/98 2nd
kp64zl ?/Oct/97 2nd
with Roger
tracyclimber 27/Jun/95 Lead

Hard lead. Was HVS 5a when I climbed it

with john burnip
Robmwatt ??/1994 -
MoWalker3 29/Jun/92 AltLd
with Joe
kp64zl ?/May/91 Lead
RichardMc 21/Apr/91 2nd
with Angel Vila
steve taylor ?/Feb/91 AltLd
with Ket
Nigel Coe 03/May/90 -
with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby
Dave Musgrove 06/Mar/83 AltLd
Nigel Coe 16/Jun/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, Hidden, Bernie L, Richard Justice, andycash, Hidden, Hidden, hutchay, Ash Sayers, Hidden, Pathological_Climber, Hidden, Matt250, Stroppy, Hidden, Master Chief, Alan100, Hidden, Dan Lane, Andre Clarke, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, timharrison, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 58
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 76
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set