Dorset > Guillemot Ledge >
 
The Spook*** E1 5b

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Toiler on the Sea >>
[The Spook pitch 1, 3 kb]33m, 2 pitches. A sustained, varied climb and one of the best E1s at Swanage. Start under a prominent, smooth-sided corner. 1) 5a, 18m. Climb a corner to the roof, and swing right to beneath the smooth-sided corner. Climb the fine corner to the mid-height break and belay on a ledge to the right. 2) 5b, 15m. Step right onto the wall and climb easily, but boldly up to the chert band and roof - old hidden peg. Arrange good gear, then step left and climb the overhang to finish up the bold wall. © ROCKFAX
FA. Richard Crewe, P.Sharman 31.3.74 31/Mar/1974

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: The Spook pitch 1 © match
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 196 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

led p1
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/14 with Paul K

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/14

tash - 2nd - 02/Aug/14 with ali k

tash - 2nd - 01/Aug/14 with ali k

Still a classic :-)
clipskipper - AltLd rpt - 02/Jul/14 with Sonia Robins

Hidden - AltLd dog - Jul/14

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Dave Clare

davidclare - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Jon Ridley

mike mo - Lead - 20/Jun/14 with Edd

Led P2. Slipped off removing a stubborn nut on P1.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd dog - 19/Jun/14 with Lawrence Dudley

funsized - 2nd - 31/May/14 with Fi

Fantastic climb. intimidating from the bottom but solid holds and good gear. Linked the two pitches together and went up direct over overhang. Not as in guide book but still 5b. oh and 1st proper E1 lead :)
mc fifi - Lead O/S - 30/May/14 with Jonathan Pearson

bede.west - AltLd O/S - 25/May/14

Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Andy

Led second pitch. Found the smooth sided corner on pitch 1 quite strenuous. Plenty of pro before having to commit to the overhang on 2nd pitch. Really nice route.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Martin Haworth

Brilliant route. I lead pitch 1. I'm not sure which pitch is the crux. I find the 5b move on pitch 2 more like 5a and the gear is good for that move, there is a few 4c/5a moves above that where the gear is a little below you but not too bold. The bolder climbing to the top is much easier but the rock is a bit suspect. Pitch 1 I find quite sustained and the moves near the top of the crack I find fairly stiff 5a but this pitch is well protected throughout.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 11/Jan/14 with clipskipper

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Best trad route I've climbed in Swanage so far.
sarpedon - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13

Sophie Nunn - Lead rpt - 27/Jul/13 with Martin

Strung pitches together, went straight up not onto ledge.
Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Kev Brown

Wevcore - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Rich

Awesome. Bottom half is a brilliant tough HVS.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13 with alex malins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/13

Kirill - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Stevo

CurlyStevo - 2nd - Jun/13

TommyA - 2nd O/S - 11/May/13

Led P2. Good moves on the crux, found P1 a little more interesting though.
Stroppy - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with Roger Kirke

Roger Kirke - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with Edward Hastrop

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 21/Apr/13 with Julian Prieto

Led P1. Got pumped and took a fall on P1.
Julian Prieto - AltLd dog - 21/Apr/13 with Alan Blanchflower

Great route
arose - AltLd - 20/Apr/13 with Daj

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 05/Mar/13

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

feckin ard at the top
misterb - 2nd - 02/Dec/12 with justin

Led in one pitch bit stiff at the top!
Justin T - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/12 with Nick B

Lead both pitches. P1 Amble up to the roof then get stuck in. There's perfect gear in it and plenty of opportunity to rest in balance to place it. Not as bold as it looks from below. P2. I went left, following the diagram (rather than the description) and found the rusty peg (did not bother clipping what's left of it). Exciting rock up on to the little ledge, then moved back right into the groove and climbed on good holds (poor gear) to the top. Lovely thrilling experience.
ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen

tsyrett - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/12

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/12 with josh cooper

Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Chakrit Suriyo

nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/12 with Frank ?, Ian Bryant

Dizz - AltLd - 26/Aug/12 with Hugh T

Led P1
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Dave Cowell, Cat St. Claire

adam 24 - AltLd - 26/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12

Lead the 2nd pitch but I may not have choose the right route. Tried diagonal left but got stuck at a roof sticking out with a large flat mantle on the left... and I went down. Started on the right of the belay ledge with a long running without gear, 2 small cams under a big block and up to the top on the right of this big block. I do not think this is the correct 2nd pitch route but the rockfax guide is a bit confusing.
pelvoux - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Chris Bull

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12

Followed P1 - wild! P2 was a push over.
Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - Aug/12 with Brian Mead

quiffhanger - Lead rpt - 03/Jun/12

mc fifi - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12

funsized - AltLd O/S - Jun/12 with Fi

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/May/12

3 Names - 2nd - 17/May/12 with Ed Bulman

P2. Will be back to lead the first pitch. Awesome line.
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 16/May/12 with Will I Am

will moy - AltLd dog - 16/May/12 with paul taylor

Very nice. On Jake's recommendation took a diagonal left line for the 2nd pitch up to a cool mantle onto a protruding triangular block.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

jacobjlloyd - Lead rpt - 12/May/12 with Sophie

Chris led p1, then we escaped up right instead of p2 as it was raining / hailing.
stuaart - 2nd - 21/Apr/12 with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn

Pitch 1 only: finished on 2nd pitch of August Angie in the hail/rain because I'd done it before and it was the quicker option.
chris_B - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Staurt Reeves, Lou Atkin

louby - 2nd - 21/Apr/12 with Stuart Reeves, Chris Burn

chakrit - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Feb/12

PAJames - 2012

alan P1 Me Pitch 2. Fun little route. Got a little lost coming off belay at end of pitch one due to guidebook and picture description confusion. If you step off right then go upwards you'll find the hidden peg
Dave89 - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/11 with Fat Al

Lead 1st
Alan100 - AltLd - 03/Dec/11

cmon this is not easy E1!!! very steep and strenuous first pitch. My second fainted on the ledge which was not ideal preparation for belaying me on the 2nd pitch.
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Dec/11

sparkass - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Gary Wood

Hang on the gear, the rope below the roof. But very nice 1st pitch.
pelvoux - Lead dog - 08/Oct/11 with Mario

mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

Strung both pitches together
riddle - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Mike Stephenson

al99 - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Martina Zandonella

Tried to lead the first pitch but had to back off. Strenuous corner and second pitch overhanging and difficult to read
martinazando - 2nd - 25/Sep/11 with Al Benson

Nails, E2 if done in one pitch.I found the 2nd crux really hard, maybe i missed a hold?
Dan Lane - Lead dnf - 17/Sep/11 with Norm Gilman

Led 2nd pitch.
Julie Carroll - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Helen Gibson

Marti999 - AltLd rpt - 02/Aug/11 with James Richardson

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/11

P1
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/11 with Graham Westbrook

Sophie Nunn - 2nd rpt - 25/Jun/11 with Matt Robinson, Ceridwen Hutchinson

Ceridwen - AltLd rpt - 25/Jun/11 with Matt Hot rock, Sophie Nunn

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 25/Jun/11

bigie bob - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/11

La Mont - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Lisa Paling

Lead 1st Pitch
benjino - AltLd O/S - 06/May/11

Steep finish the crux for me
jezb1 - 2nd - 26/Apr/11

easier than i remembered
tonanf - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with jez, ludvic

Bit of an epic, Kev fell from second pitch ripped 3 bits of gear and ended up well below me. Effectively top roped the top pitch as Kev hurt his shoulder and needed lowering off, got rope from above to rescue me!
RFWilkie - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Kev

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/11

max p1, me p2
uncontrollable - AltLd rpt - 02/Apr/11 with Max

Done many time before.
Max Streeton - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/11

led 1st pitch, rested on gear.
Helen Gibson - AltLd - 08/Mar/11 with Alice

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/11

Kevster - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/11

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 08/Nov/10 with Alex

AlexD - AltLd O/S - 08/Nov/10 with Sophie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10

risby - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Neil Weymouth, Tom Thorne

3 Names - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Sumee Holloway

Jenny Crook - 2nd - 27/Aug/10 with Rob Patchett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10

Nice climbing
manwithacam - Lead - 18/Jul/10 with Mike R

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 03/Jul/10 with DAJ

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with James P

First pitch wet
jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Mark

Led both pitches. Fab route. Guidebook description of second pitch doesn't match with line on topo - did I do the second pitch of Toiler on the Sea? Lovely whatever!
givemetea - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Patrick

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/10

Spence22 - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Charlie

Lead first pitch, then decided to do the second pitch of toiler on the sea
tscoobydoo - AltLd O/S - May/10 with phillip belcher

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/10

led first pitch. was awesome!
breed - AltLd - 17/Apr/10 with Ellis Bird

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Mar/10

Bern - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/10 with Richard White

colkurtz - AltLd - Mar/10 with Adam, Robb

Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Rich

Jane Weir - Lead - 2010

Led 2nd pitch. Getting past the overhang seemed a whole lot harder than before.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 18/Oct/09 with Frodo Stickel

lead first pitch, Alan second pitch
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Alan B

Led 1st pitch. First HVS (CC guide) or first E1 (Rockfax)! Very sustained.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Max Streeton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/Sep/09

SuseH - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Iain

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09

Stu, led first pitch Me Second, found very steady both pitchs
strapless - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Stu Evans

lisapaling - 2nd dog - 15/Aug/09 with Andy Lamont

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/09

Wicked!
jacobjlloyd - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/09 with Ceri Hutchinson

Foot slipped off pulling over the overhang, stuck it with one hand but hurt myself so rested to check out my injuries. finished the rest clean.
Ceridwen - AltLd dog - 19/Jun/09 with Jacob

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/09

tonanf - Lead - Jun/09 with tomek

I did P1 and we both agreed this was the harder pitch. It has all the climbing, P2 has one stiff pull and thats it. Great route though....do P1!!!
SGD - AltLd - 21/May/09 with Tom Relf

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/09

Nice route, don't think I could have lead it...yet
jezb1 - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09

feilx - 2nd rpt - 28/Feb/09 with Jake

one pitch
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/09 with Felix

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

2nd Pitch
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/08

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Oct/08

GPN - AltLd - Oct/08 with Paul James

Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/08

Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/08

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/08 with Simon Chandler

Hidden - Sep/08

Brown - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Henry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/08

Mr Tickle - Lead - 11/Aug/08 with davenev

memorable.........
davenev - 2nd dog - Aug/08 with luke

Tobes - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Oli

Ed Babs - Lead RP - 31/May/08 with John Vet

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Lisa Paling

lisapaling - 2nd β - 03/May/08 with Toby Dunford

Excellent route and definately worth some stars. Failed to plan the crux carefully enough and it spat me off . . . but I'll be back!
clipskipper - AltLd dog - 05/Apr/08 with Ed Babington

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/07 with Heather Rogers

well hard. I was shi**ing it under the roof. My first lead of my second year. I had forgotten about fear.
tonanf - Lead O/S - Apr/07 with burt

Hidden - 17/Mar/07

mat cooper - Lead - Mar/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Richard White - 2007

chrisbevins - 2007

Ramon Marin - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Salomon Fernandez

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/06 with jamie evans

Led P1, surprisingly straightforward.
Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 29/Jul/06 with Martin Hore

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/Jul/06

I led bottom pitch, Max led top (where we got a bit lost)
andyfeds - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Max S

Bern - 2006

BicepAndrews - 2nd - 2006 with Aaron Willis

Kyuzo - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/05 with Markus Roggen

Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

Nervy start to the top pitch
clipskipper - 2nd - 23/Aug/05 with Davey Boy

Led both pitches. UPDATE: have since done this a bunch of times, with varying difficulties on P2. The correct method is to step 1m RIGHT from the belay ledge and head straight up. If you find the mouldy peg hidden just under the overlap you are going the right way. Heading up and left from the stance is totally possible but harder with probably scarier.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/05 with Andrew

Boxy - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/05

feilx - 2005

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/03 with Royston Smith

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/99 with Graham Dolman

Climbed with Dave
Lepista - Lead - 16/Jul/99

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/May/99

WB - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/98 with Guy

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/98

kp64zl - 2nd - Oct/97 with Roger

jasper11 - 1994

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 29/Jun/92 with Joe

kp64zl - Lead - May/91

steve taylor - AltLd - Feb/91 with Ket

Nigel Coe - 03/May/90 with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 06/Mar/83

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 16/Jun/82 with Tim Dunsby

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Ash Sayers, Hidden, Pathological_Climber, Ciderslider, Hidden, Matt250, Stroppy, Hidden, Master Chief, Alan100, Hidden, Dan Lane, Andre Clarke, Hidden, RFWilkie, Hidden, Hidden, timharrison, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 167
hard E20 of 50
E20 of 50
easy E20 of 50
hard E15 of 50
E123 of 50
easy E115 of 50
hard HVS7 of 50
HVS0 of 50
easy HVS0 of 50
hard 5c0 of 48
5c0 of 48
easy 5c0 of 48
hard 5b0 of 48
5b33 of 48
easy 5b6 of 48
hard 5a9 of 48
5a0 of 48
easy 5a0 of 48
3 Stars53 of 69
2 Stars14 of 69
1 Star2 of 69
0 Stars0 of 69
Bag of .....0 of 69
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Style of ascent

Lead59 of 196 (30.1%)
Followed45 of 196 (23.0%)
Alt Leads77 of 196 (39.3%)
Unknown15 of 196 (7.7%)

'Climbed'63 of 196 (32.1%)
clean O/S100 of 196 (51.0%)
clean β1 of 196 (0.5%)
clean rpt18 of 196 (9.2%)
clean RP1 of 196 (0.5%)
dogged11 of 196 (5.6%)
dnf2 of 196 (1.0%)