Brilliant route. I lead pitch 1. I'm not sure which pitch is the crux. I find the 5b move on pitch 2 more like 5a and the gear is good for that move, there is a few 4c/5a moves above that where the gear is a little below you but not too bold. The bolder climbing to the top is much easier but the rock is a bit suspect. Pitch 1 I find quite sustained and the moves near the top of the crack I find fairly stiff 5a but this pitch is well protected throughout.CurlyStevo - AltLd - 11/Jan/14 with clipskipper
Hidden - 2014
Hidden - 2014
Best trad route I've climbed in Swanage so far.
I_hang_dog - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13
Sophie Nunn - Lead rpt - 27/Jul/13 with Martin
Strung pitches together, went straight up not onto ledge.
Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Kev Brown
Wevcore - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Rich
Awesome. Bottom half is a brilliant tough HVS.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13 with alex malins
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13
Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/13
Kirill - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Stevo
CurlyStevo - 2nd - Jun/13
TommyA - 2nd O/S - 11/May/13
Led P2. Good moves on the crux, found P1 a little more interesting though.
Edward Hastrop - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with Roger Kirke
Roger Kirke - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with Edward Hastrop
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 21/Apr/13 with Julian Prieto
Led P1. Got pumped and took a fall on P1.
Julian Prieto - AltLd dog - 21/Apr/13 with Alan Blanchflower
arose - AltLd - 20/Apr/13 with Daj
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 05/Mar/13
ianto - 2013
Hidden - 2013
feckin ard at the top
misterb - 2nd - 02/Dec/12 with justin
Led in one pitch bit stiff at the top!
Justin T - Lead O/S - 02/Dec/12 with Nick B
Lead both pitches. P1 Amble up to the roof then get stuck in. There's perfect gear in it and plenty of opportunity to rest in balance to place it. Not as bold as it looks from below. P2. I went left, following the diagram (rather than the description) and found the rusty peg (did not bother clipping what's left of it). Exciting rock up on to the little ledge, then moved back right into the groove and climbed on good holds (poor gear) to the top. Lovely thrilling experience.
ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen
tsyrett - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/12
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/12 with josh cooper
Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Chakrit Suriyo
nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/12 with frank, Ian Bryant
Dizz - AltLd - 26/Aug/12 with Hugh T
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Dave Cowell, Cat St. Claire
adam 24 - AltLd - 26/Aug/12
Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/12
Lead the 2nd pitch but I may not have choose the right route. Tried diagonal left but got stuck at a roof sticking out with a large flat mantle on the left... and I went down. Started on the right of the belay ledge with a long running without gear, 2 small cams under a big block and up to the top on the right of this big block.
I do not think this is the correct 2nd pitch route but the rockfax guide is a bit confusing.
pelvoux - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/12 with Chris Bull
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12
Followed P1 - wild! P2 was a push over.
Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - Aug/12 with Brian Mead
quiffhanger - Lead rpt - 03/Jun/12
mc fifi - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12
funsized - AltLd O/S - Jun/12 with B====D Fiona yum yum
Hidden - Lead dog - 30/May/12
3 Names - 2nd - 17/May/12 with Ed Bulman
P2. Will be back to lead the first pitch. Awesome line.
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 16/May/12 with Will I Am
will moy - AltLd dog - 16/May/12 with paul taylor
Very nice. On Jake's recommendation took a diagonal left line for the 2nd pitch up to a cool mantle onto a protruding triangular block.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 13/May/12
jacobjlloyd - Lead rpt - 12/May/12 with Sophie
Chris led p1, then we escaped up right instead of p2 as it was raining / hailing.
stuaart - 2nd - 21/Apr/12 with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn
Pitch 1 only: finished on 2nd pitch of August Angie in the hail/rain because I'd done it before and it was the quicker option.
chris_B - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Staurt Reeves, Lou Atkin
louby - 2nd - 21/Apr/12 with Stuart Reeves, Chris Burn
chakrit - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Feb/12
PAJames - 2012
alan P1 Me Pitch 2. Fun little route. Got a little lost coming off belay at end of pitch one due to guidebook and picture description confusion.
If you step off right then go upwards you'll find the hidden peg
Dave89 - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/11 with Fat Al
Alan100 - AltLd - 03/Dec/11
cmon this is not easy E1!!! very steep and strenuous first pitch. My second fainted on the ledge which was not ideal preparation for belaying me on the 2nd pitch.
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Dec/11
sparkass - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Gary Wood
Hang on the gear, the rope below the roof.
But very nice 1st pitch.
pelvoux - Lead dog - 08/Oct/11 with Mario
mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Strung both pitches together
riddle - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Mike Stephenson
al99 - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Martina Zandonella
Tried to lead the first pitch but had to back off. Strenuous corner and second pitch overhanging and difficult to read
martinazando - 2nd - 25/Sep/11 with Al Benson
Nails, E2 if done in one pitch.I found the 2nd crux really hard, maybe i missed a hold?
Dan Lane - Lead dnf - 17/Sep/11 with Norm Gilman
Led 2nd pitch.
Julie Carroll - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Helen Gibson
Marti999 - AltLd rpt - 02/Aug/11 with James Richardson
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/11
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/11 with Graham Westbrook
Sophie Nunn - 2nd rpt - 25/Jun/11 with Matt Robinson, Ceridwen Hutchinson
Ceridwen - AltLd rpt - 25/Jun/11 with Matt Hot rock, Sophie Nunn
Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 25/Jun/11
bigie bob - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/11
Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/11
La Mont - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Lisa Paling
Lead 1st Pitch
benjino - AltLd O/S - 06/May/11
Steep finish the crux for me
jezb1 - 2nd - 26/Apr/11
easier than i remembered
tonanf - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with jez, ludvic
Bit of an epic, Kev fell from second pitch ripped 3 bits of gear and ended up well below me. Effectively top roped the top pitch as Kev hurt his shoulder and needed lowering off, got rope from above to rescue me!
RFWilkie - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Kev
Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/11
max p1, me p2
uncontrollable - AltLd rpt - 02/Apr/11 with Max
Done many time before.
Max Streeton - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/11
led 1st pitch, rested on gear.
Helen Gibson - AltLd - 08/Mar/11 with Alice
Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/11
Kevster - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/11
Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 08/Nov/10 with Alex
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 08/Nov/10 with Sophie
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10
risby - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Neil Weymouth, Tom Thorne
3 Names - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Sumee Holloway
Jenny Crook - 2nd - 27/Aug/10 with Rob Patchett
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10
manwithacam - Lead - 18/Jul/10 with Mike R
Tightsgirl - 2nd - 03/Jul/10 with DAJ
MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with James P
First pitch wet
jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Mark
Led both pitches. Fab route. Guidebook description of second pitch doesn't match with line on topo - did I do the second pitch of Toiler on the Sea? Lovely whatever!
givemetea - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Patrick
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/10
Spence22 - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Charlie
Lead first pitch, then decided to do the second pitch of toiler on the sea
tscoobydoo - AltLd O/S - May/10 with phillip belcher
Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/10
led first pitch. was awesome!
breed - AltLd - 17/Apr/10 with Ellis Bird
Hidden - AltLd - 14/Mar/10
Bern - Lead rpt - 07/Mar/10 with Richard White
colkurtz - AltLd - Mar/10 with Adam, Robb
Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Rich
Jane Weir - Lead - 2010
Led 2nd pitch. Getting past the overhang seemed a whole lot harder than before.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 18/Oct/09 with Frodo Stickel
lead first pitch, Alan second pitch
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Alan B
Led 1st pitch. First HVS (CC guide) or first E1 (Rockfax)! Very sustained.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Max Streeton
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/09
Superb varied climbing. Did it as one pitch.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Sue Hazel
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 06/Sep/09
SuseH - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Iain
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09
Stu, led first pitch
Me Second, found very steady both pitchs
strapless - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Stu Evans
lisapaling - 2nd dog - 15/Aug/09 with Andy Lamont
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/09
jacobjlloyd - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/09 with Ceri Hutchinson
Foot slipped off pulling over the overhang, stuck it with one hand but hurt myself so rested to check out my injuries. finished the rest clean.
Ceridwen - AltLd dog - 19/Jun/09 with Jacob
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/09
tonanf - Lead - Jun/09 with tomek
I did P1 and we both agreed this was the harder pitch. It has all the climbing, P2 has one stiff pull and thats it. Great route though....do P1!!!
SGD - AltLd - 21/May/09 with Tom Relf
Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/09
Nice route, don't think I could have lead it...yet
jezb1 - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09
feilx - 2nd rpt - 28/Feb/09 with Jake
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/09 with Felix
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/09
Hidden - 2009
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 27/Dec/08
Hidden - 2nd - 25/Oct/08
GPN - AltLd - Oct/08 with Paul James
Hidden - Lead - 28/Sep/08
Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/08
Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/08 with Simon Chandler
Hidden - Sep/08
Brown - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/08 with Henry
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/08
Mr Tickle - Lead - 11/Aug/08 with davenev
davenev - 2nd dog - Aug/08 with luke
Tobes - AltLd O/S - Aug/08 with Oli
Ed Babs - Lead RP - 31/May/08 with John Vet
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Lisa Paling
lisapaling - 2nd β - 03/May/08 with Toby Dunford
Excellent route and definately worth some stars. Failed to plan the crux carefully enough and it spat me off . . . but I'll be back!
clipskipper - AltLd dog - 05/Apr/08 with Ed Babington
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/07 with Heather Rogers
well hard. I was shi**ing it under the roof. My first lead of my second year. I had forgotten about fear.
tonanf - Lead O/S - Apr/07 with burt
Hidden - 17/Mar/07
mat cooper - Lead - Mar/07
Rob Kennard - 2007
Richard White - 2007
chrisbevins - 2007
Ramon Marin - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Salomon Fernandez
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/06 with jamie evans
Led P1, surprisingly straightforward.
Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 29/Jul/06 with Martin Hore
Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/Jul/06
I led bottom pitch, Max led top (where we got a bit lost)
andyfeds - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Max S
Bern - 2006
BicepAndrews - 2nd - 2006 with Aaron Willis
Kyuzo - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/05 with Markus Roggen
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05
Nervy start to the top pitch
clipskipper - 2nd - 23/Aug/05 with Davey Boy
Led both pitches.
UPDATE: have since done this a bunch of times, with varying difficulties on P2. The correct method is to step 1m RIGHT from the belay ledge and head straight up. If you find the mouldy peg hidden just under the overlap you are going the right way. Heading up and left from the stance is totally possible but harder with probably scarier.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/05 with Andrew
Boxy - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/05
feilx - 2005
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/03 with Royston Smith
Marti999 - Lead - 2000
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000
cem - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/99 with Graham Dolman
Climbed with Dave
Lepista - Lead - 16/Jul/99
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/May/99
WB - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/98 with Guy
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/98
kp64zl - 2nd - Oct/97 with Roger
jasper11 - 1994
MoWalker3 - AltLd - 29/Jun/92 with Joe
kp64zl - Lead - May/91
steve taylor - AltLd - Feb/91 with Ket
Nigel Coe - 03/May/90 with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 06/Mar/83
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 16/Jun/82 with Tim Dunsby