10m.

Rockfax Description
Excellent moves and good gear up the bottomless corner. Keep an eye out for a loose block near to the top of the pitch. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, Swanage Green Spots.


ClimberDateStyle
ClareG 29/Aug 2nd

Got a bit stuck into the corner!

with smking
Todders 29/Aug 2nd
with John Gillbe
matteo_8 10/Aug Lead O/S
dave_is 31/Jul Lead O/S

Harder than it looks, well protected. Don't wimp out around the left of the small arête at the top!

Keiran.A 31/Jul 2nd
with John Harlow
steve_gibbs 30/Jul 2nd O/S
George Frisby 30/Jul Lead O/S

Sustained hard climbing for a Severe, but good gear.

MontyH 23/Jul Lead
with pete frost
Mouse5 17/Jul Lead O/S
Yox89 17/Jul 2nd
Buccaneerbilly 18/Jun Lead
with Alex Hodgson, Alex Coad
matt_batchelor 18/Jun 2nd
with Chris
Hidden 18/Jun Lead
montymoo 08/Jun 2nd
with lorraine
lecko 06/Jun 2nd
with Lu
Rollo 05/Jun 2nd O/S
benwmorgan 05/Jun Lead O/S
jennysknight 05/Jun 2nd
afterthesend 03/Jun Lead rpt
with Dad
Hidden 30/May 2nd
kev1307 25/May Lead
with Knocker
craig.england1 14/May Lead O/S
with Mic A
RM199 11/May 2nd O/S
edmundro 07/May Lead O/S
andy dunn 07/May Lead
with Claire
Claireybloomers 07/May 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 04/May -
Hidden 01/May Lead O/S
Legs 01/May Lead
with Sarah
Hidden 30/Apr -
Alex 74 30/Apr Lead
with John
Hidden 30/Apr Lead O/S
Côme Berger 30/Apr Lead

My first trad lead !

with John
label 24/Apr 2nd O/S

Good fun. The top half relies on decent footwork.

Hidden 23/Apr 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Apr Lead
unicycleboy 18/Apr AltLd
daniel heaton 17/Apr Lead O/S
sammycolon 17/Apr -
joe.wahab 16/Apr TR dog

Why do thrutchy moves like this always mandate such bizarre noises? Completely cocked up the crux, thought I could back and foot up the bulge, no way jose. Made a complete arse out of that route! Oh well, must improve chimneying/thrutching/bridging action. But not too soon.

with Terry
Egons Issy 16/Apr Lead
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Poco Loco 16/Apr 2nd O/S

Not a push over. Interesting though.

with Gareth
Hidden 16/Apr Lead rpt
naylers 16/Apr 2nd
Mattholland96 13/Apr 2nd
with Dad
cols1982 09/Apr Lead
with cbonner
cbonner 09/Apr 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Apr Lead
Hinchrn 02/Apr Lead O/S
markcoulter50 02/Apr 2nd
with Hinchrn
Ashley King 31/Mar Lead

A slightly cricket start with a bottomless corner to overcome, harder than expected with a could of interesting moves, came slightly round to the left near the top. gear was good however.

with Declan
robertmills4 22/Mar Lead O/S

Sustained hard climbing, seemed harder than Severe!

with Sam Ennis
Hidden 06/Mar -
jeffers696 16/Jan Lead O/S
with Bob
Bob M 16/Jan 2nd
with Paul Evans
Phil Anderson ??/2016 Lead
viv sherry ??/2016 -
richy85 ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 Lead rpt
Claireybloomers 25/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Andy
andy dunn 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Claire
Hidden 25/Oct/15 2nd
richardashe 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Pixie
Matt.c.Warner 20/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Philoosh 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
StefanP ?/Sep/15 Lead
petegruf 16/Aug/15 Lead

Polished and horrible.

with Christina
BarrySW19 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Jon
SenzuBean 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Barry
Alex 74 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Dick
stephen ashworth 06/Aug/15 Lead
with Ian hendy
Jamesmoly 04/Aug/15 Lead O/S
jaimer 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with André Knirch
Rich K 01/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with BCC
kim.mulji 19/Jul/15 Lead

Partner couldn't make it past the crux, and I asked him to come down after I started shivering from wind exposure. Jumped up and down a bit, and waved my arms about to warm up, then climbing up, through crux - the holds are there, and up to the top. Under-graded somewhat. More HS 4b.

oscaig 19/Jul/15 2nd RP
samohtdoowde 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Nice climb, a bit wet in places but 7am start with no sun was ok for me.

with Matt saxby
rajeshwarbisht 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 05/Jul/15 2nd O/S
cmj 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with John knight
Superpump ?/Jul/15 TR O/S
with micky, Big Jon, mikeski
mikeski ?/Jul/15 TR
mdjb 21/Jun/15 -
James_L88 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Patrick Clissold 14/Jun/15 Lead
with Eleri Clissold
Hidden 13/Jun/15 2nd
AndyCook 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Steve_T_Taylor 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with louise kennedy
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/15 2nd
BDC 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Eugene
steve2006 23/May/15 Lead O/S

most enjoyable traditional climb of the day.. I just wish I could climb it using Ellie's technique.

with Ellie Webb, Ann Blandford
Ellie.Webb 23/May/15 2nd
with Ann, steve2006
markfromstoke 10/May/15 Lead
with Ian
ian d f 10/May/15 2nd O/S
with Mark
Hidden 01/May/15 2nd dog
joe.wahab 14/Apr/15 TR O/S

Went too far inside. Thrutchy and orrible in good way.

with Terry
How easy 12/Apr/15 2nd

Tough moves half way up

with Jon g
will_benfold 12/Apr/15 2nd O/S
KittyKat 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Will Benfold
JDG2428 12/Apr/15 Lead
Bob M 09/Apr/15 2nd
with Ket
Dan0Me 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Sophie C
BRoe ?/Apr/15 Solo O/S
with Seamus, Will Lord, Millard, DanG
ian.ross.bnc ?/Apr/15 Lead
petrch 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Adam Prater-Rushton
MontyH 21/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Paul Milton
Hidden 01/Mar/15 2nd O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
euge74 ??/2015 2nd O/S
Russell Lovett ??/2015 Lead O/S

Cant remember who with or date, early 1980,s. Have soloed it since, again 1980,s

with unknown
mikehenesy ??/2015 2nd β

It's always been a bit of a struggle getting round the overhang, and there's no shortage of gear but isn't about time we cut the bullshit and admit that this teflon coated corner is a million miles from a Severe. Give me a VS in the ruckle anytime.

with shy dave
Aimee Louise 06/Dec/14 Lead
Stu.Cossey 06/Dec/14 Lead
Matt1234 05/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Tdavy01 31/Oct/14 Lead
Chubbs 27/Oct/14 2nd
timorme 05/Oct/14 TR rpt
with Dan Orme
Matt_Hardy 02/Oct/14 Lead
with Josh Lee
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
mattprince 20/Sep/14 Lead β

Dave tried to lead first but fell half way up the route and decided he wanted to come down. I lead clean after.

with David Holmes-Evans
lcullum7 11/Sep/14 2nd O/S
SarahA 11/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 11/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Pete Sanger 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Ben Watts 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Louise 'the wife' Watts
rushy11111918 28/Aug/14 Lead
with Charlie Lindsey
callans 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
katiep 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lead on Callan's gear after he backed off. Hard for the grade but well protected.

with Callan
Hidden 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt
lewiz 09/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Radek
RadekNowak 09/Aug/14 2nd
91dave 09/Aug/14 2nd β
with Geoff Hannis, Flick Soper
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Echna 09/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Rich
grrrrrrrh 09/Aug/14 Lead
with felicity soper
Hidden 09/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
RobScarisbrick 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Nice route, worth the stars

JulianB 26/Jul/14 2nd
JulianB 26/Jul/14 2nd
Tom Gregory 06/Jul/14 Lead
with Jenny Page
don pfaff ?/Jul/14 Lead
with Daisy Waring
Hidden 26/Jun/14 Lead
londonoring 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Difficult climb for a S, the corner is very awkward (IMHO). Put in a runner right off the platform and my hand slipped on the soapy rock and I fell, would have fallen into the sea if it wasn't there. Iain second.

James_L88 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kat Day
Hidden 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
roberts1234567890 08/Jun/14 Lead
with Jon Rouse
GDS 31/May/14 2nd
with harry
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead O/S
SuperLee1985 25/May/14 Lead O/S

Definitely an 'interesting' climb. Definitely harder and not quite as good as Second Corner but still worthwhile. Fine till about halfway up and then the holds start to disappear and you have to do some quite creative climbing to advance. The crux for me was the moves to get past the overhang in the left hand wall where the crucial chockstone in the crack is about the only hand hold and feet are few and far between, i seemed to employ some form of back-and-footing-lay-backing-palming-down maneuver with some delicate feet to get past it. Then ended up back-and-footing-lay-backing much of the rest of the route too.

StevieLee 25/May/14 2nd
michaelp 18/May/14 2nd O/S
hp8g12 06/May/14 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 17/Apr/14 TR rpt
Matt Smith 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S
MontyH 04/Apr/14 Lead
with Paul Milton
Alex 74 29/Mar/14 2nd
with Daryl
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
drgrange 29/Mar/14 2nd
Headjamm 23/Mar/14 2nd
with Geoffers
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
mickd ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S
MontyH 22/Feb/14 Lead

A bit damp!!!!

with Brian
brian watson 22/Feb/14 2nd rpt
harry_lewis ??/2014 2nd
with Jed
jedster1111 ??/2014 Lead
Sophie Nunn 29/Dec/13 TR rpt
Hidden 08/Dec/13 2nd rpt
Echna 08/Dec/13 TR O/S
with Rich
omaskrey 01/Dec/13 2nd O/S
thomaspomfrett 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Marsden
petecallaghan 10/Nov/13 2nd rpt
sheelba 29/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 08/Oct/13 2nd O/S
dereke12000 06/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Didn't go well, lost #12 nut in the drink, before bailing out at bottom of parallel crack...

with Rob
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
mikehenesy 05/Oct/13 Lead

Bit more of a struggle, bloody hard getting round the corner. More of a challenge for the 'novice'!

with Willy
Buccaneerbilly 05/Oct/13 2nd
Kitesurfer.alex1990 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Chris Dove 05/Sep/13 2nd

Nice climb.

Hidden 05/Sep/13 Solo rpt
OliverRoss 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Alkis
Alkis 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Snorfalorpagus 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Type 2 fun.

with Lindsey Robinson
garethm 17/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Led up to half way before shitting and backed off. M finished lead.

Hidden 13/Aug/13 2nd
Steve954 10/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Needed something to get my confidence. Back up after the fall. All good

with Rich
Archlucifer 28/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Alan Veal
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Katya 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Alex Bryant 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Katya
Steve954 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Ok but I was making harder work of it than I should have.

with Richard
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
sarpedon 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Phil led.

Callum Smith ?/Jul/13 Lead
andrzej kierzek 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tara
Almorr 14/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Bert 14/Jun/13 2nd

Incredibly polished and slippy. Didn't really enjoy it

Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
Felix Ottey 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
jasonpm 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Simon
DaveGarrity 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice confidence boost after falling off Botany Bay.

with Sonya
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
clams ?/Jun/13 2nd
with Jim
Keiran.A 26/May/13 Lead O/S

first swanage trad route. chose this route as the abseil rope follows the climb. the route felt very exposed but this was my first sea cliffe route. really enjoyed it.little gear used on right side, could have been climbed with a single rope.

with Tibor
Peter Lovell 24/May/13 Lead O/S
BenJ85 22/May/13 TR O/S
martin one 18/May/13 2nd rpt
with Neil Nand
ElBarto 18/May/13 Lead rpt

Probably the worst route of the day, awkward, wet and greasy. The latter of the two making it the worst. Lose block seems to have gone!

jackjock85 18/May/13 Lead O/S
j4kub 16/May/13 Lead O/S
with claire gibson
TommyA 13/May/13 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 13/May/13 2nd O/S
with Tommy
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead
MontyH 27/Apr/13 Lead
with Kate, Brian, Lee Lander
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd
dh7892 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Matt250 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Pete Randall 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Richard B
Jim Malo 07/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Mark
Hidden 06/Apr/13 TR
Hidden 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Sarah Welsh 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
illwizod 18/Feb/13 Lead β
with Thom Izod
Mike Weatherill ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
saxdonkey ??/2013 Lead O/S
paultaylor 02/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with Jimbo
johnl 15/Nov/12 2nd rpt
with Andy Dunford
stonemikey 25/Oct/12 Lead

Damp and greasy, and hard for a severe. Not a particularly pleasant experience!

with Mark Ward, John Horton
runwildjohn 25/Oct/12 2nd

Definitely not a Severe - much tougher than the other Severes at Subluminal. Mike led.

with Mark Ward, Mike Silver
LJC 07/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead
tev 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Nick, Chris J
Albachoss 16/Sep/12 2nd O/S

A bit more tricky than expected but fun all the way.

with Dr Matt
Pete Nugent 13/Sep/12 Lead

Much harder than Second Corner

with Jill Stevens, Paul Stevens
tim_mcd 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Manchi
saraguti 26/Aug/12 Lead dog

much more difficult than other S or HS in this crag. Still worth it but careful with your grade expectations!

with chris
alexporter 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd
uncontrollable 23/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Viskii
selbs83 23/Aug/12 2nd
timorme 21/Aug/12 TR O/S
with Dan Orme
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Solo O/S
riff156 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
klo1981 04/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Andrew White
Dax 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with RhysP
Hidden 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
gingerking ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Jack Harding
JezzaCat ?/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Shelagh
Trippinjester 30/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Rustyjas 26/Jul/12 AltLd
with Mike Henesey
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Fiona McFarlane ?/Jul/12 2nd
with Sonya Crowe
pffft 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S

First lead on the coasts of Swanage. Not the easy Severe I was wanting to calm my nerves, exciting first move and awkward jamming through bulge. "Lovely" though.

with Jojo Mills
Hooo 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

First moves were running wet, but then not too bad higher up. Some awkward back wriggling and jamming. Tons of gear, will take all the big nuts you can carry.

with Danny D, Rich B
Fatclimber 01/Jun/12 TR

Did it to retrieve gear. Never ever again!

with Lee
pippa_g 22/May/12 2nd O/S

start was the hardest bit for me. plenty of solid jams further up

Hidden 22/May/12 Lead
robblowen 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with Munch
munch88 19/May/12 2nd β
with rob
martin clarke 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Bede 06/May/12 Lead
UnkArl 06/May/12 Lead O/S

How do you grade a route that isn't particularly hard, has decent enough gear but is just plain awkward...

with Debbie
Debs 06/May/12 2nd
with Karl
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
jarodbishop ?/May/12 AltLd

First Severe lead!

joe hallam 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Stroppy 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S

So wet, much trickier than second corner

with Luke Johnson
MontyH 28/Mar/12 Lead
with Paul Milton
Monkey_Alan 18/Mar/12 2nd rpt
gibsond 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Matt Schwarz 10/Mar/12 Lead

proper struggle, reminded me i need to learn to jam properly!

Peter north 10/Mar/12 2nd
Voltemands 13/Feb/12 Lead O/S
aj_white 12/Feb/12 -

Lots of hand jamming up a greasy crack

Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 2nd
with Tom Shimell
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28/Nov/11 2nd O/S
el_monty 28/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 19/Nov/11 TR rpt
sammycolon 06/Nov/11 Lead
Boogs 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/11 2nd
adam 24 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
DigitalSteak 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Alex the Alex ?/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Sep/11 2nd O/S
MontyH 24/Sep/11 Lead
hotfeet 17/Sep/11 Lead

very greasy today

oodie72 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Joe Black 31/Aug/11 2nd β
popov86 31/Aug/11 Lead
Nevil 20/Aug/11 Lead
jtree03 19/Aug/11 2nd
with rob, dazza
Alexstone 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
StevieB125 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Alex Stone, Craig Stevens
stranter 03/Aug/11 2nd β

Great climb. Glad I was seconding though!

Nexonen 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Rich, Jake
JezzaCat ?/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Richard
ngreen 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Chris Manasseh 25/Jul/11 Lead
with Andy Gee
jasoncash 10/Jul/11 2nd rpt
jasoncash 10/Jul/11 2nd rpt
murrayd 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
nath_casper 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with adam, montse
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
JezzaCat ?/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Nevil
mikehenesy 14/Jun/11 Lead

Dave's first outdoor climb - a Swanage severe! Well done Dave.

with Dave Garrity, Kate
DaveGarrity 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
ciderspider 10/Jun/11 Lead β
Ciderslider 10/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead
CurlyStevo ?/Jun/11 Lead

awesome route, worth 3 stars. Probably HS though, mutliple sections of 4b with plenty of sustained hard 4a inbetween. Watch out for the loose block at the top. Very well protected. Didn't place any cams but hexes were very usefull.

with Matt
sambosanquet101 21/May/11 2nd
with Francy Carranza
jcook1980 20/May/11 -
with Matt Tyson
Philippa Arding 19/May/11 Lead
with jo nosworthy
mikehenesy 19/May/11 2nd
with Andy Forsyth, Ian Holloway
Richard L 14/May/11 2nd
with Liam
liamnkaz 14/May/11 Lead O/S
jasoncash 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Charlie O'Brien
andycash 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with paul brackston
cbonner 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
bradholmes 22/Apr/11 Lead
Sophie Nunn 20/Apr/11 TR rpt
MontyH 20/Apr/11 Lead
with lee lander and Paul Milton
Hidden 20/Apr/11 2nd
ciderspider 16/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd
Big Lee 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Good climb but surely worthy of a HS,4b??

with Daniel
jchenoweth 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Marc
Marc-G 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Awkward and desperate smeary bridging in middle, but really well protected, could use left face/arete but surely off route?

Ciderslider 28/Mar/11 Lead β
ciderspider 28/Mar/11 2nd
mariannekhoo 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Tough for a Severe, bring some medium cams for the vertical crack halfway up the climb. Lots of time spent in tenuous positions trying to get good gear in place.

with Sarah Bayley
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
jo86 19/Mar/11 Lead
ElBarto 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Nice climb, bit tricky nearer the top though and the lose block is still there.

jon thompson27 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Ian Woodroe
RockaJo 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Phil Davies
ciderspider 20/Feb/11 2nd
Ciderslider 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Feb/11 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/2011 2nd O/S
blakey ??/2011 Lead
Hidden 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
matgorman 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead rpt
uncontrollable 02/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with Anna K, Viskii
wi11 23/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Sybil
Danh89 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with LukeyG
Hidden 19/Sep/10 Lead dog
LukeyG ?/Sep/10 -
with Danh89
Steve954 28/Aug/10 2nd rpt

Very scuffy climbing, lots of use of back and shoulders to bridge, hard work.

with Andy
oddessy_uk 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

In the rain, found it very tough.

SPENCER41 21/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Jen Crook 15/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd
risby 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Interesting but greasy route requiring "backing and footing" technique. I lost half a quickdraw here by fumbling its removal from my rack; the blue end dropped into sea. My first gear loss!

with Leon Jones, Mark James
leonjones 01/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
christina9689 01/Aug/10 2nd
with dkelly
christina9689 01/Aug/10 2nd
with dkelly
Bob M 28/Jul/10 Lead
Rustyjas 20/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Mike Henesey, Chris Keville
django 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with John Rowe
VLogan 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S
cayteye 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
adrianjenner 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Greasy with a massive loose block at the top!

with George
cayteye 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
Hidden 11/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
ScottyD 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Had a swim afterwards.

climber130887 07/Jul/10 -
Amy Kilpin 06/Jul/10 2nd
Alex Shermer 05/Jul/10 2nd dog
with Andrew Gardner
jonnyridleylogan ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/10 Lead
Alexandre Buisse 26/Jun/10 2nd

So greasy!

with Lewis
Garron 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
lewiz 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Fatclimber 25/Jun/10 TR rpt

Very greasy. Never doing this one again!

with Jim Bailey
maresia 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Seemed tough and strenuous at severe!

gjh 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
martin one 13/Jun/10 2nd
with pete
cbonner 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Awesome climb! Thoroughly enjoyed :-)

with Stuart
Alaric 12/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Lailah S, Ed
Ed Griffin 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Lailah Sahzayasin, Alaric
greylag 09/Jun/10 2nd
greylag 09/Jun/10 2nd
zara bloomfield 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with adrian paisey
Rhys Jones 31/May/10 Lead
Ugly Kid Jo 23/May/10 Lead
AndyFunnell 23/May/10 2nd
Warren Earle 15/May/10 2nd β
with Nev
Hidden 09/May/10 2nd
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
MontyH 28/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with lee, pete frost, Paul Milton
DrJon 23/Apr/10 2nd
with Pete
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
climbtim 21/Apr/10 2nd
ChrisBrooke 18/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Maryanne Garon
martyp 07/Mar/10 2nd
jaynejacko 20/Feb/10 2nd dog

Very confused!

with Chris Sansum
Chris Sansum 20/Feb/10 2nd rpt

Gary led

with Jayne Jackson, Gary Lewin
Jayne Jackson 20/Feb/10 2nd O/S
wi11 07/Feb/10 Lead dog

Needed to bridge earlier

with Chris Gee
Bob M 31/Jan/10 Lead
Monkey_Alan 31/Jan/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Jan/10 2nd
daveyji ??/2010 Lead
with Linda Williamson
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Dec/09 2nd
alaster tonge ?/Dec/09 2nd
uncontrollable 07/Nov/09 Lead rpt
with anna b
dale1968 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Tom
Bob M 08/Oct/09 TR
canis cibo 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
tobydunford 26/Sep/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 17/Sep/09 Solo O/S
tombushell ?/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
francois 22/Aug/09 Lead
with Chris, Lorna
Hidden 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Dvr69 14/Aug/09 TR

10m. Good climb used three points of contact plus back & shoulders to lodge myself in.

with Jay Traisnel
Indy Nile 12/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Frauke Fege
Hidden 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
JonBrown 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mike
michpaulatto 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
tbs105 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with jake
Andy Peak 1 01/Jun/09 Lead
with James Bradley
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead dnf
tedburt 24/May/09 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 10/May/09 Lead rpt
with Paola
paola 09/May/09 2nd
with Chris Sansum
pete.hutchings 09/May/09 Lead O/S
tom_holdsworth 09/May/09 2nd
with Mike Kennedy
Fatclimber 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Greasy and horrible.

with Kwan
MontyH 23/Apr/09 Lead

Graham first time out.

with Paul Milton
jezb1 12/Apr/09 Lead
Indy Nile 12/Apr/09 2nd rpt
Dorset 12/Apr/09 TR

Yuk

with Mark James and Julian Taylor
martin one 11/Apr/09 2nd
with dave knight
vertigo 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/09 TR
profb 04/Apr/09 TR
with Steven Love
Lil'Lou 04/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Elliot
Elliot King LC&CC 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with louise greenal
size9hex ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Bruce Tandy
Dave89 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Marc + Poppy
EmmanuelF 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Steven Andrews 16/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Rachel Berkowitz
Steven Andrews 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Rachel Berkowitz
davenev 09/Mar/09 TR O/S

Greasy and wet but hey I like these sort of climbs - good bridging and nice hand jams when you need them - tough for a severe though.

with solo
MontyH 07/Mar/09 Lead
with brian and Pete
Hidden 07/Mar/09 2nd O/S
@ndy 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Simon Allcock ?/Mar/09 Lead
with nick
Bob M 22/Feb/09 Lead
with Stella Moggs
Monkey_Alan 24/Jan/09 2nd β
uncontrollable 24/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Alan B
Hidden ??/2009 -
John30587 ??/2009 -
Alex More ??/2009 Lead O/S
sdht ??/2009 -
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
st_reymann ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
freemanTom ?/Oct/08 Lead

Hardest severe I have ever done.

with Richard Henton and Matt
Rollo 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Kit
trev_f 27/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Ed
Ed Babs 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Trevor
Bargate_Champ 26/Aug/08 2nd O/S
MarkRyder 24/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Rhys
Merlin 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Alex Elliot
Dave Foster ?/Aug/08 2nd O/S

So so.

with Tony
Ing 27/Jul/08 Lead
with Stevie G
Blisco 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Caiwei
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
cherad 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Jayne Jackson 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Steve
Hidden 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S
doyle12 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tristian
aged_ape ?/Jun/08 -
lostinmidlands ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with nil4e
dcomeau 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Dunn
jamie ward 20/May/08 2nd O/S
with Martyn Eales
bigie bob 14/May/08 Lead O/S
haydng 10/May/08 2nd O/S
with Rachel
RMG 10/May/08 Lead
with haydng
ChrisBrooke 01/May/08 Lead O/S
with Keeley Scholes
jamie ward 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Nathan Sunley-smith
Hidden 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/08 2nd
smargerison 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Stewart
MontyH 02/Apr/08 Lead
with lee lander and Paul Milton
Hidden 02/Apr/08 2nd
leonjones 02/Mar/08 2nd
with Ian Stratton
Hidden 01/Mar/08 Lead dog
riddle 01/Mar/08 2nd O/S

Awkaward chimney!

with Yasmina
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
beardy mike ??/2008 -
Rhys Jones ??/2008 -
Browny 24/Nov/07 Lead O/S
JezzaCat ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Simon
tonymw 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Catherine Browne
DvO ?/Oct/07 2nd rpt
Theeni ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Matt Kemp
Hidden 22/Sep/07 2nd
whiting.jp 22/Sep/07 Lead dog

The most gripped I've felt in a fair while. Slippery in the extreme that day, I didn't trust *any* of the holds (and for good reason). If it looks massively greasy, it is! Ugh..

with jamesca and chris poad
MontyH 03/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Paul Milton
KarlH 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Sean H-G, Matt and Neil
martin one 05/Aug/07 2nd
with dave knight
Steve954 14/Jul/07 2nd rpt

Difficult Start under the overhang

mankrambler 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with CUMC
hailtryfan ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Got a bit nervous on this one. Moving on to the ramp next to the aret from the greasy corner took me a while to commit to despite good gear and big holds.

Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Claire S-J ?/Jul/07 2nd
Andy Chubb 16/Jun/07 -
with Mike Hewson
simoncov 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Greasy. My chimney technique sucks.

with LJ
tebs 08/Jun/07 Lead
with Mike
Mr Tickle 29/May/07 Lead O/S
jonathannewth 05/May/07 2nd
with Chris W
manwithacam ?/May/07 2nd
with Martin
bigbobbyking 29/Apr/07 -
Tom Gadsden 15/Apr/07 Lead
with Will
Hidden 11/Mar/07 2nd O/S
eldre070 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Paul Rigg
Will Homoky 28/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with Doug McNeall
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 Lead O/S
deanroberts ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
djking1983 12/Nov/06 Lead
Bram 12/Nov/06 2nd
MontyH 11/Nov/06 Lead rpt
with Lee Lander
Hidden 11/Nov/06 2nd
Tom Last 11/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Nick and Denise
Steve954 16/Sep/06 2nd dog

Found very hard. Large overhang to get round right at the start. Half way up reach the crux and could not get past it. Descended then climbed again with assistance of a shunt for extra foot holds. Not happy with my ability.

AJ007 ?/Sep/06 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/06 2nd rpt
Chris Sansum 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Darren Garlish
mikehenesy ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S

A struggle first time. Difficult getting from under the roof.

with Ian Holloway
kenneM ?/Jun/06 Lead
with Steve Crosby-Jones
aturner99 07/May/06 Lead
MontyH 03/May/06 Lead
with Paul Milton
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Marq 22/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Steve Yates
Andy Chubb 21/Apr/06 -
with Robin Nicholson
trev_f 17/Apr/06 2nd β
with John Godding
CJE 16/Apr/06 2nd
JWB 16/Apr/06 Lead O/S
2RoyalAnglian ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with mark ansty
broc 28/Jan/06 2nd O/S
with Jason
Hidden ??/2006 -
Bokonon ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Nev
MikeC59 11/Sep/05 Lead
MagnusL 03/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Exciting stuff, good opportunity to go a bit harder but with excellent gear. But whats that first step over the chasm all about!?

with My mate Paul
Hidden ?/Sep/05 2nd
tobydunford 21/Aug/05 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 21/Aug/05 2nd β
Paul Leader 02/Aug/05 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Paul-Michael 23/Jul/05 2nd O/S
with Paul Nurse
thompson1000 10/Jul/05 Lead
graham knott 04/Jul/05 2nd O/S

Great fun! Worth it just for the abseil onto the ledge. A nice place to be!

with Jo Stables
Hidden 24/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/05 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Feb/05 Lead O/S
leonjones ??/2005 2nd
with Phil Barley
chrisbevins ??/2005 Lead O/S
jonberry791 ??/2005 Lead O/S
cem 12/Dec/04 2nd
Darrell Read 14/Nov/04 Lead

Great Route

Budge 17/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 2nd
Zoomer 31/May/04 Lead
with Mac MacDonald
clive-greenwood 16/May/04 Lead O/S
with Edith
timharrison 30/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
Owen W-G ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Dan & Juan
Alaric 20/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Karen B, Pierre Maxted
Hedley 19/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Rick
Marq 05/May/03 Lead O/S
with Isabel Kingsmill
Bob M 16/Mar/03 -
with Adriennne Adlington, Norman Wright
Norman_P_W 16/Mar/03 -
with Bob M
Hidden ?/Mar/03 Solo
MontyH 22/Feb/03 Lead rpt
Rob84 ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Paul Bunney
Richard Horn ??/2003 -
mOg#1 ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
furry 27/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Phil B
Bob M 18/Aug/02 Lead
with Mike ??
Hidden 03/Aug/02 2nd
MontyH 29/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/02 Lead
EllieWoods 16/Oct/01 Lead O/S
with Trevor
Hidden 22/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/01 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/01 Lead O/S
MontyH 07/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Paul Milton
Richard Alderton 09/Aug/01 2nd
with Rich Gilbert
migs493 20/May/01 Lead O/S
andybenham ??/2001 -
Jacob Ram 19/Aug/00 Lead
with elisa shub
gripped01 ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with South African bloke
Hidden 08/Jul/00 Lead O/S
mark4344 01/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with dave tourell
ellie macpherson ?/May/00 TR

Shunt

Bob M 13/Feb/00 -
with Paul Crowsley
FrankW 09/Jan/00 2nd rpt
with James R
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Ian Jones ??/2000 Solo O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Stone Muppet ??/2000 -
NickP ??/2000 -
FrankW 14/Nov/99 Lead rpt
with Simon Rogers
sixties 16/Sep/99 Lead
with hrd
MontyH ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with rob guppy
Gareth 17/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Graeme
Indy Nile 01/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Trelawny Burt, Jonathan Lewis
FrankW 25/May/99 Lead rpt
with Joe
Bob M 25/May/99 -
with Richard Mott
Rob Oram 13/May/99 AltLd O/S

A quick whiz to Swanage in the evening. The rock was pretty damp and greasy due to spray which made things interesting!

with Tom Asbridge
akamini ?/May/99 Lead
Lepista 20/Mar/99 Lead O/S

With Rinaldo (Rin)

Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Bob M 13/Sep/98 -
with Mark James, Jill Stevens
Hidden 06/Sep/98 2nd
timreynolds 12/May/98 Lead
with Paul Bastiaiens
Sime64 ?/Apr/98 Lead O/S
with Steve M, Cheryl
DafSWMC ?/Feb/98 Lead O/S
five ?/Oct/97 Lead rpt
jl 04/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Scuzz
nacnud 07/Jun/96 Lead
andyfeds 05/Apr/96 Lead
with Weeksie
pezzerrr ??/1996 Lead O/S
timbanton ?/Dec/95 -
babymoac 06/Nov/95 Lead
mikej 24/Sep/95 Lead
with Mike Byles
tracyclimber 20/May/95 2nd

Sev when I climbed it.

iskra2000 29/Apr/95 Lead
with Jane Latham
five ?/Feb/95 Lead O/S
Dringo ??/1995 -
colin milton 17/Sep/94 Lead dog
with eric milton
Hidden 11/Sep/94 2nd O/S
jim_randell 11/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with FW
Hidden 31/May/94 Lead O/S
Geoffers ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Bean
Hidden 09/Jun/93 Lead
james wardle ?/Jun/93 AltLd
with simon Longley
r0b 19/Feb/93 Lead O/S
with Andy Jefferies
Okecroak 08/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
with M Mercy
timreynolds 25/May/91 2nd
with Tony Hayward
Hidden 19/Jul/90 Solo
FrankW ?/Jul/90 2nd O/S
with Pat H
kp64zl ?/May/90 2nd
with Mark
ferret newman 01/Mar/90 Lead
with The Blacks Camping Crew (Reading) , 1989-1991
craig h 27/Jan/90 Solo rpt
Raggar 10/Sep/89 Lead

Most enjoyable for Swanage VS 4b

with maria l
steve taylor ?/Mar/89 Lead O/S
with briony beresford
MoWalker3 08/Dec/88 -
craig h ?/Dec/88 Lead O/S
with Little Lou
Hidden 05/Jun/88 Lead
RichardMc 05/Mar/88 Lead O/S
with Tim Oakes
bazzag ??/1987 Lead
with matt
Moses 26/Oct/86 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 29/Jul/84 Solo
Nigel Coe 19/Jul/83 TR

Barefoot as I'd forgotten my EBs.

with Pete Oxley
Nigel Coe 30/Apr/81 Solo
Nigel Coe 14/Oct/79 Lead
with Richard Christianson
Nigel Coe 07/Jan/79 2nd

I had trouble following in the wet.

with John Walmsley
Hidden ?/Aug/78 Lead
Chris Terrey ?/May/78 Lead
with Dave Kelsey, Gerry Dunford
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, bazthomas, Hidden, richy85, viv sherry, Aidanrobinson1995, 9113chrisa, Hidden, simonjkinsella, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, alexporter, Hidden, Hidden, RandomHero, carlbakes, Warren Earle, Hidden, Stick
Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 131
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 118
Votes cast 107
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set